use carb adjust nob on control open slightly,but once it starts re adjust to lower setting
thats what i do when i have trouble starting it,my mt2 of course not sure what ride you are talking about,or you can check the glow plug

Make sure your air filter is not over oiled. Have you check the glow plug?

Yeah the glow plug...put it on the glow starter and if its lite up, well then its not that then.

With the rotostart, you can tell if its engaging as yor motor will turn over - to be sure take out the glow plug and put your finger over it and you will feel what I mean.

You engine may also be flooded, and if its also still adjusted so thats its a wee bit rich, flooding it will make it hard to start.

Dont worry about your clutch of anything else other than your fuel tank, glow plug, engine settings. If you have an air leak in your engine that will also make it hard. Oh, have you checked for air leaks prior to use...? Perhaps just check to see if you have any leaks in your system. Then from there logicaly work yor way through the problem negating all that you have done prior so that its just a matter of finding out whats left to do and check.

What are your LSN, HSN and your Idle settings at the moment...?

umm i did 2/34 for high and flush with the low glow plug works bright orange i dunno how to check for leaks and yes it is turning the right way

Even if a glow plug looks good in the igniter I still recommend trying a new one. All so I would try putting the LSN and the HSM back to factory settings. All so an air filter with to much oil will not allow enough air. Her is a link on check for air leaks.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx

anyone one have any complaints about the universal dogbones from tower hobbies guess i should of ask before ordering them from tower hobbies http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHLX4&P=Z , http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHLX5&P=Z

I run them and they have been very good. Much better then the older style that had a setscrew holding the pin in. I let a guy at the track like an idiot drive mine he ran of the track and landed on a rock and bent one. I straighten it out and it is working fine. I all so recommend using this stuff instead of grease, as it does not attract dirt near as easy.
It goes on very thin and penetrates well then dries.
http://www.performancelubricant.dupo...cts_multi.html

thanks 46u thats nice to know i got a pair of universals from ebay but they were **** and bent and broke on a couple smaller jumps at the bmx track,wasnt even hard landings smooth and excelent ones to be honust so i figured i would give towers a shot thanks for the lubrication link i was just using wd 40 for my stock ones but collected a lot of dirt .

Have a problem someone many be able to help me with. As most know I race my MT. They just changed the track and I am having a lot of problems with my truck nose diving on the jumps when when in the air and landing. I have tried getting then nose up by giving it throttle in the air but dose not seem to help much. I have tried heavier oil and springs in the front but still has terrible nose dive. On the old track this was a problem but much worse on the new track.

I do not like GPM parts!

if i may suggest try to give a bit more throttle just before the jumps,i found when i was learning the ins and outs of jumping it helped me with that nose dive situation just a suggestion.nose got a little bit more lift in the initial jump stage
i know i dont race on normal rc tracks,but i did experiment with the jumping thing just bashing

I have found if I approach the jump slower then nail it just before leaving the ground it helps but I am losing so much time approaching the jump. If I hit the jumps at or near full speed it nose-dives big time. Thanks for the input.

have you tried to hit full throttle just befor hitting bottom of the jump,anything to try and help out

hey guys
i had a great day yesterday.
ran 4 tanks thru my mt2 18.
the only problem i had is the
screw holding the steering servo saver
it came loose a few times.
its a hitec 645.
i locktighted it.
other than that. all is good.
i even got it to wheely a few times.

Could even be the ramp itself...I have had some jumps that no matter how I attack them, just screws my how flight pattern up in the moment. I could be just that one or two of the jumps are poorly made/designed with a bad lip creating a poor take off; so it might not be your driving at all or your technique...just some bad jumps? Just an idea, as I do have a few at my track and I helped design it and there were several that after using them we had to remake and create a better lip.

Anyway its just a thought though

YEAH...Thanks to some very cool RCU posters adn friends I have finally been able to put my darn torque starter on the Hyper .21 beat laying in the heart of the MT2...no more pullstarter and scraped knuckles. Would prefere a bump starter but its too much effort and the TS is way easy to use.

Took it out for a quick spin and testy, wow...I forgot how fast that thing was and almost lost it totally coming off the staight into the turn - this is on road BTW; so lucky its stiff enough for that and the shock mod was working absolute wonders...great for a cheap free mod.

Have to get a speed run on that beast...[:-]

You got your MT2 to wheelie...WOW. I cant even get mine to do that with a .21 Hyper in it. Thats very cool. You need to have those golden moments down on Vid to post on "YouTube" bro.

hey sim
i was going from black top to grass at WOT.
it must of hit the grass the right way and that brought the front
end up. i didn`t hold it.

Thats cool bro...sincerely mate. Everytime my RC does some thing interested I never have a cance to vid for others to enjoy my latent RC adventure. Oh BTW, are you racing yours buddy or just bashing?

MTnotronut, those universal dogbones are good. I have had a set on mY MT2 now for about a year now...well, almost anyway; and they are stil going strong. My only beef with them is that they dont have boots on the either end to keep out the dirt and other crap from the track - not good. but I had to change my loobe so it attracted less particals, but still, I have to ALWAYS clean them to maintain them.

What do you use to lubricate them?

I use a bike lube called Finish Line "KryTeck" which is an adaptation from Dupont using the Krytox technology and is a kind of dry wax lubricant that attracts no oil, dirt of water and is really great...good for my bike too - mountain bike. You should try it its great on those CVD's yeah as they have no boots. Although I put boots on mine.

Hi
Anyone here done any mods to their throttle linkage setups?
If so could you post some pics. I want to change mine and need some help.

I cant post pics but have a look at my gallery and you will see what I have done with mine...but there are many versions out there. What ever you think might work for you best, try and experiment. The one I have on mine is the simplest and works great for the slide carb set-up, but can work for the roto carb too. For the roto carb though, there are better set ups. Have alook in other peoples galleries to see what they have and what they have done.

This is what I use and does not attract dirt like grease does.
http://www.performancelubricant.dupo...cts_multi.html

Yeah thats a nice product indeedy. Its made by the same company too - Dupont; as the one I mentioned before and uses almost the same chemical constituents. Could be the same or similar product...? Either way thats sweet though.

I might try that one next just for the RC as this one I use is for the beasty mountain bike.