whoever was wondering about how that 13/16 cb and 47/43 spur ran.... To much bottom end. When the tires hooked up with the off road tires I can pull wheelies. with on road tires they don't have enough traction. I took it to the track today (sorry no pics) and ran it around. The track was to dusty. Hard to keep the truck straight. Ended up stripping the spurs in the two speed while screwing around in the parking lot. got a hard launch that hooked up real good and that did the spurs in. I'm going to swap over to 52/49 spurs tonight and I'll get some vids tomorrow at lunch. Anyways, if you switch to 47/43 gearing you will still have a ton of bottom end and A LOT of top end.

Why are you guys changing the knuckles and C-hubs? because they are weak? I broke one today just from coming off a jump wrong.

I'm really thinking about buying an 18ss kit and selling the motor out of it and dropping in my CV-R in the SS.

you should replace the knuckles with alloy but not the c hubscause if you replace those the the lower arms will break instead of the c hubs which are alot cheaper to replace

hmmmm I haven't broke a knuckle yet. Just the C-hub.

then i would just replace it with another plastic one

whats primer?????????

a primer is what come on the mt2 rtr fuel tank, its a button that you press to put fuel through the fuel line and into the engine, but it is also a place where air can get into your fuel tank which you dont want

nickrummy

Thanks for the info on the 2-speed gearing; I will have to try the 47/43 combo. Just one question, being the gears are smaller you have to move the engine in towards the center of the truck. Does the engine interfear with anything, do you have to modify anything on the chassis???? I know when I dropped in my OS .18CV-r into my MT2 I had to grid away some of the plastic next to the pull cord, or maybe it was my MT1 I had to do that too?????[sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif]

With the 2-speed I predict I will be going through a lot of spur gears with the OS .18 installed. They are a lot thinner then the single speed spur gear making them weak. Also the HPI 2-speed uses a locking method to engage second instead of the clutch style used in higher end racing cars and trucks (cars like the Team Associated NTC3 for example). The locking method puts tremendous force on second gear instead of engaging second gradually. I already stripped my second gear spur with just 3 tanks through it (and I am using the small tank that comes in the MT1).

As for the knuckles it is one of the MANY weak points that needs to be addressed on the MT1 & 2. I would suggest the aluminum knuckles as the next upgrade if anyone out there has not done so already.

I used the 47/43 combo with stock hpi mounts.

I'm not sure you can go any smaller though. I think you might want to try the 46/43 combo (if a 46t is available) though if that is an option? It seemed as though that was the proper gearings difference (as stated in one of the gearing charts). I chunked the 43t and stripped the 47.

I did not have a problem with breaking my knuckles the problem I had was with the screws pulling out of the plastic. I tried everything and after spending more on plastic knuckles then what aluminum cost I got some billet aluminum ones. Since I have not had a problem.

I'll have to look into the aluminum.

Oh Joebaby, almost forgot to tell you. I did have to move my brake from the rear of the tranny to the front of the tranny because it was hitting the flywheel. I had to make a new brake linkage since it was longer.

Do you get full gear contant with your two speed and clutch bell? It looks like my motor should be about 1/16" forward to get %100 contact. (or my spurs about 1/16" back)

someone wanted a [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Traxxas-Revo-2-5-3-3-Full-Transmission-Tranny_W0QQitemZ220045025251QQihZ012QQcategoryZ440 28QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]revo tranny[/link] cheap for now

Yeah - same here. The screws just keep on pulling out. I've ordered in two sets of spares, however when they run out I think I'm gonna go with the alu ones. I've only had to replace them once in 6 months tho - pretty good. I can get them really cheap as well - around US$4/set, so I haven't bothered getting alloy ones yet!

--RCNZ

thanks for that ebay link, i'm watching it!

hey nickrummy
what parts did you use to put the brake in front of the tranny and how did you do it

All i did was take the brake parts off and swap them to the other side of the tranny housing (the mounts are already there for this) Then I replaced part number 72108 with 72107 (its the same yoke thats on the rear side of the tranny) I ended up putting a rubber o ring inside the front diffs yoke so that the center drive shaft doesn't move front to back as much. Don't want to take a chance of it working its way out of the yokes.

then I just made my own brake throttle linkage since its now to far away from the servo.

I just went to the local hobby shop and bought some steel rod that fits in the servo arm and through the brake lever and then bought some collars with set screws to put on the rod to pull the brake arm.

Here are some pics that might help.

i tried to do that on my 18ss but it wouldnt work because the electronics tray was in the way how did you work around that??

anybody have a link to the shims to put in the diffs? ive been looking all over and i cant find them

im sitting at home bored because i cant go on my car until i get that new tank owh btw im on the net on my psp its pretty cool[8D]

i see how you did that but how is it that the radio tray is'nt in the way. how did you get around that

yeah thats the same thing that i want to know

I can answer that...

It's an MT1 (or at least the radio-tray and upper-deck are MT1 parts).

You know, I did that conversion so long ago I forgot that it wasn't supposed to be like that.

ALUMINUM HUBS/SPINDLES: I got some recently on eBay because I have had the same problem with the screws stripping out/pulling out since I've had my MT. I've only had the aluminum ones for about a week or two now, but they are a nice upgrade. The place I ordered from was in Hong-Kong, so shipping was slow. But if you order before you break your current ones, then no worries.

PAINT: Have to use poly-carb paint. I've used Pactra brand up until I did my recent T-Maxx body, on which I used Tamiya paint. I would say that Tamiya has a MUCH NICER nozzle than Pactra. Enough that I will likely switch to Tamiya now on bodies I care about. It does cost a bit more, but if you want to make sure your paint job comes out nice, and you're limited to using rattle cans, I recommend Tamiya.

BTW, a tip on painting. Soak the cans in warm water for about 5-10 minutes before painting (not hot, just warm). This will make the presure in the cans rise a bit and the paint will atomize more, making it spray nicer.

hey thanks for the tips on painting. Also does anyone know where i can get a nice mt2 body-shell here in the UK any good websites? also websites that do custom designs UK only please thanks

YES HAHAHAHAHAHA IM GETTING MY TSAIS PIPE NEXT WEEK YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ill try to post some pics when i get my OS .18 CV-RX and the pipe