Try to use alum screws and thread lock then give it a torque tightening grip with a T-hex wrench...if it pops out something esle is wrong. Mine have been good and I take it out on the big track and they have'nt poped out once, but I never used the stock screws that came with it, I used titanium screws on that area.

why wouldn't the original screws work? I have not upgraded the knuckles either, they are stock plastic. Would aluminum knuckles and c hubs work better or just get bent out of shape with jumps?

Yes I have found the HPI Dirt Bonz tires do not last. Try the Pro Line Bow Ties they hold up for me much better and the design is a lot like the Dirt Bonz.

Here in the States you can get a MT2 RTR with radio shipped to the house for about $300 is why I said I did not thing the deal was all that good. Shipping from Towers to address in the lower 48 states on this is $7.99. May be I am missing something in the listing that makes it worth more like it says 18ss spec parts which I am not sure what they mean? This most be a kit they do not sell in the states? Please in lighten me as all I am trying to do is learn! But like I said that’s for the heads up as there might be some one in a different location that would make it a better deal for them

If I understand what you are saying you are running the stock plastic knuckles? If so you will not be able to keep screws in it until you up grade to alloy knuckles where you can loctite the screws in. I know this fact from trying to make 3 sets of the stock plastic knuckles work got a set of BILLET alloy and have not had a problem since. This is one of the biggest problems that you need to fix on the MT.

All so do not user loctite or thread lock on plastic!!!!!! I think SIM2U might have misunderstood what you where saying.

Yeah, I was afraid that I was going to have to get an alloy front end. I like the price on plastic stock parts when they break. What is a good place to purchase the knuckle and c hubb set? I have heard of asia tees, but what else is out there that you guys have purchased from? I would like to stay away from places that have given people headaches. What will the locktite do to the plastic? thanks for your input.[sm=angel_smile.gif]

Loctite breaks down plastic. If you have to use something to help hold screws in plastic use CA glue or silicon sealer. Here is where I got my alloy knuckles and is the only thing I changed on the front end of my MT. All so you can see from the pictures I have run many gallons throw my MT.
http://www.neweramodels.com/prod68_h...tm?session_id=
This are billet and watch out what you buy from others as a lot of places sell cast like GPM which is not near as strong. That is why some places sell there parts cheaper as they are cast and not billet.

The brand you are talking about are good but they are not yet sold in North America I can find and if some one knows some there in North America please let me know.

Yeah I did actually, I was under the impression that he was talking about the alum set, hence the use of thread lock...for like you said, you should'nt use locktite on plastic. My mistake there, or perhaps i just read too much into it, oh well there you go.

Do you get the 3 different builds there...? I have'nt seen any though. Here in J-Land there are 3 different builds a person can choose from, 1st is the advertised version, 2nd is the RTR with rotostart and no radio equipment and the 3rd is full RTR, which has all the radio equipment and rotostart...but its all overpriced refuse. As I said totally changed all of my 18ss kit as there is some refuse on that too. But the RTR is aimed at the beginner of RC. But that price still works out cheaper $290. +shipping and a hoped up version to 18ss spec without the radio...still sounds good to me. The 18ss does'nt come with radio and units as you know of course, and I still changed the engine. Also he says that there would be a bonus of Billet front/rear knuckles...still sounds good to me, maybe he should drop the shipping to $40. lol.

Yeah the prolines may be the way to go...still not too sure though, how meaty are they...? I have'nt bought them before for the MT2. GOOD...?

On the old MT 1 they had 3 versions here in the states but on the MT 2 we only have 2 that I have seen. You have the RTR with radio and the sorry T15 and then the .18SS kit with out radio or servos. Mine when I bought it was a MT1 Racer that came with out radio, servos or engine. But now is a MT 1 ¾. I wish HPI sold a MT2 SS kit with out the engine for about $100 cheaper. They all are over priced and I do not know but think the manufactures make a good profit on them.

I had HPI Dirt Bonz on the front and Pro Line Bow Ties on the rear. The HPI Dirt Bonz are slick, which I change, and the Pro line still look good but do have wear but nothing like the Dirt Bonz. The Dirt Bonz on my Savage are holding up GREAT! Yes I understand normally the front do wear faster but still think the Pro Line will hold up much better.

I just posted pics for you in my gallery...have a look if you want

Hello All
First off, I would like to take the time to say, Peace and Good will to all, since this my first posting on this Forum.
I have been turned this way from an RC Car action Forum member, I dont know if he is a member here or not so I wont use his name.
Here is my problem,
I have an MT2 That I have converted to a Brushless Land Rocket. And it is quite fast, that aside, I need to find a source of 3.2mm(1/8)
Shaft Pinions That are the MOD1 Tooth size as used on the MT2, and I would like to find the Spurs in a larger size than the stock size it was equiped with, ie: 52tooth. I know that 'RC-Monster' has the Pinion's in stock, which they make or sell, but I would like to find a better source for these, Such as Robinson Racing Products, Since the Local Hobby Shop stocks and sell's these they can order these and it wont cost me any more money. I hate shipping cost's. I dont know if this has been covered on this forum or not. Dont really have time to read 300 plus pages of information here. So in closing, Thank you in advance for any help you can throw my way
Peace and Goodwill

Welcome to the forum!
I do not remember seeing much in this thread about electric conversions and you are pretty much talking over my head as I am primarily nitro with all my vehicles other then my Mini-Z’s I run in my house on my RCP track. 52 teeth is the largest spur that HPI makes which on the MT 2 is the same thing as a Savage spur. As far as shipping cost Tower Hobbies has what is called parts express and only charges $3.99 on many orders on parts which is probably less then the sales tax. All so they have monthly specials! They all so carry the heave metal Robison spurs that I personally will not run, as rotating weight is a BIG horsepower eater. I do not even run one on my Savage, as I do not have a problem with the stock light cheap plastic spurs on either my MT or Savage.
Sorry I could not be more help.

46u
Thank you

You are more then welcome and post some pictures of your electric MT.

Here is a couple of photos

That should get you drolling[8D]

That is nice but sorry I am not into electric but thanks for the pictures. Hope you do not get to much flex with out an upper deck.

Here you go revised for you all: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MESE%3AIT&rd=1

Thats it though...a loose loose situation, but its off my hands at least.

hi everybody
i had a great weekend.
i ran 4 tanks thur my mt2. after a bad cartwheel. i broke the rear hub.
i went to my LHS and got both. the billet ones and the stock plasitc ones.
i glued the one broke and put it back on the car. its holding up so far.
so i`ll keep the new billet and stock ones for spares.
while i`ll was at my LHS he had the front and rear a arms in billet too.
they were 35$ a set. i was going to buy them but i passed. for the time being
i`ll stick with plastic a arms.

If your bashing with it, I would'nt go with too much alum as plastic as you say, is cheaper and its also more forgiving. When you hit alum just the same as plastic it bends and when you bend it back into the approx right shape, it looses it original strength. Just use the minimal alum aproach unless you take onroad....then you need the added weight.

hey sum2u
yea i thought the same thing.
i`d rather replace plastic with plastic.
i was going to use this truck for onroad.
but i changed my mind and only bash off road.
so i`m in the market for an onroad car. my first one.

hey guys
BTW. anybody know the tower part number for the front a arms.
i ordered a bunch of spare parts for mt2 18ss and i ordered 2 sets of a arms. thinking they
would fit both front and back. but the front are smaller. so i got 2 sets for the rear and no spares for the front.
tower says the front and the rear are the same. but there not.

The only A arm I broke in well over 5 gallons was an alloy but when I ordered and extra set of plastic the part number included 1 front and 1 rear. Now let me tell you my experience with aluminum. When my MT was a MT1 I had just about all alloy A arms, A arm mounts, Shock tower and diff case. When I broke my aluminum A arm it not only break the A are it passed the problem on to the next weakest point and bent my chassis. If I would have had plastic good chance the only thing that would have broke is the cheap A arm.

On my Mini-Z F1’s I had problems with the axel pulling out of the knuckles so I got aluminum knuckles then I started breaking tie rods so I got aluminum ties rods and then I started stripping servo gears so it is just much cheaper and easier to replace plastic knuckles. Now on my MT the only extra aluminum I run is the knuckles. Aluminum is all so much heaver.

You should try to get the front/rear knuckles and C-Cups in billet as many would say, and that good advice to take aswell. You dont really need much more than that, but its depends.

hey 46u
your right. looking closer at the a arm parts tree. it does have one of each, front and rear a arm.
so i got a full set of spares.
when i measured the ones in the parts bag at home i didn`t take them out of the bag.
i just measured them up next to the car. i must of been looking at the one on the tree
that was the rear one thinking they were both the same on the parts tree. DOH.