Official HPI MT2 Thread
#7951
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From: saint paul,
MN
no, its never ran good for long usually it runs good then stalls and gets totally out of tune again, Well i bought it from another guy who never used it or opened the box, so i dont have a receipt so im probally screwed on that one.
#7952
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From: mission viejo, CA
Well I busted my front cvd's and tried to be cheep and go with the gpm uni's...blew them out in three tanks!Guess I should've went with the hpi's to begin with.
#7953
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From: Macon,
GA
Sorry to say you buy GPM you are playing the odds and they are normally stacked against you. You never did say if you sealed the engine! If you are having to tune it that much in the same day unless there is a big weather change I think you have an air leak.
#7955
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From: Macon,
GA
Here is a link not the one I was looking for but does have some information. I all so recommend sealing the backing plate not the roto start plate but the one under it. You all so what to use the stuff I have listed in the second link.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
You can get the sealer at just about any auto parts store or places like Wal-Mart. You do not have to use much and do not get it where you should not be like inside the motor.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
You can get the sealer at just about any auto parts store or places like Wal-Mart. You do not have to use much and do not get it where you should not be like inside the motor.
#7957
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From: Macon,
GA
Will first it has to do with the T Max! I know you need to buy all the RPM parts you can for it if it does not have them all ready if you what to drive it much or for long. The engines are like the T15 some are good and some are not so good more so with the 2.5 then the 3.3. Personally the only Traxxas I would consider would be the Revo only if they made it in a kit with out the radio and engine. I am not bashing I am stating my opinion for those that need to know.
#7958
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From: saint paul,
MN
another question from me..lol.. o.k if i was going to spend between 200 and 300 on motor and upgrades what could i get for that price to make this thing scream?
thanks,
kevin[8D]
thanks,
kevin[8D]
#7960
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From: Moorpark,
CA
os 18 tz and drive train upgrades. lol. but hey, about your engine problem...i know its a not-so-good engine and all, but from what it sounds like, you are tunning it when it is not warmed up, and once it gets up to temperature, it is of course out of whack. the only way to properly tune an engine is when it is all warmed up, because materials expand and contract at different temperatures, and the engine will do almost all of its running up at temperature. just my diagnosis, it probably this combined with other things like your fuel, or a possible air leak, or just the engine being sparatic in general.
#7961
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From: Macon,
GA
Yes you defiantly have your engine up to temperature for tuning. Have you read the manual? Yes OS TZ will make it fast and cost around $210 then if you up grade your drive train to handle it do good chance you will be over your budget. All so need a good pipe.
My brake disc touches my flywheel lightly but is not forced in to it. Does not seem to hurt of has not hurt for the past 4 years.
My brake disc touches my flywheel lightly but is not forced in to it. Does not seem to hurt of has not hurt for the past 4 years.
#7962
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
wELL SAID HAND UP TO YEAH GOODJOB HELPING ALL THE OTHERS
ORIGINAL: unclezesta
os 18 tz and drive train upgrades. lol. but hey, about your engine problem...i know its a not-so-good engine and all, but from what it sounds like, you are tunning it when it is not warmed up, and once it gets up to temperature, it is of course out of whack. the only way to properly tune an engine is when it is all warmed up, because materials expand and contract at different temperatures, and the engine will do almost all of its running up at temperature. just my diagnosis, it probably this combined with other things like your fuel, or a possible air leak, or just the engine being sparatic in general.
os 18 tz and drive train upgrades. lol. but hey, about your engine problem...i know its a not-so-good engine and all, but from what it sounds like, you are tunning it when it is not warmed up, and once it gets up to temperature, it is of course out of whack. the only way to properly tune an engine is when it is all warmed up, because materials expand and contract at different temperatures, and the engine will do almost all of its running up at temperature. just my diagnosis, it probably this combined with other things like your fuel, or a possible air leak, or just the engine being sparatic in general.
#7963
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
i,m running stock and the t15 i got aint all that bad,it rips , like most with bigger motors ,they cant even control the topp end so not to grab horns or affend anyone they race where technical aspect of the track plays factor and thats what they like race .Good job on all the helpful tips guys,but i myself like speed and power and to enjoy all aspects of the hobby,since i dont have off road track close by i bash.and do time trials on a makeshift track lol
#7964
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From: Macon,
GA
The trouble is not all T15 are created equal. I have seen some that where decent engine but I have all so seen many not very good. Yes I agree there is such a thing as to much power on the track but some is in throttle control. If I go to a track and my engine seems too much I just set the end point on the throttle servo where it only opens up so far. Now in my opinion there is such a thing as over kill. Most of my vehicles I race do not have real hot engines in them and I win more then 50% of the time as the driver is 90% of winning. Lots of times I run much more conservative then others. I like being behind the leader till right near the end as most of the time the pressure gets to them and they make a mistake then I pass.
I fell sorry for any one that does not have a track close by or unable to go where there is one! I all most got out of the hobby if it was not for a local track opening.
I fell sorry for any one that does not have a track close by or unable to go where there is one! I all most got out of the hobby if it was not for a local track opening.
#7965
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
i understand where your coming from gets a little boring just bashing and stuff anytime to try to exceed the thresh hold trying new stuff you end up breaking stuff lol,going to build a track back east on my parents land they baught four acres enough for i acre track lol which isnt much
I feel sorry for any one that does not have a track close by or unable to go where there is one!
I as well
I feel sorry for any one that does not have a track close by or unable to go where there is one!
I as well
#7967
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From: Macon,
GA
Please do not yell cap lock! Well once again has a lot to do with condition and what has been done to the Savage. The Savage 21 is the first generation Savage and has some week points that were fixed in the newer generation Savage. Bottom line any thing you buy or trade for used you are taking a chance unless you can see it run and check it out as well as know what you are looking at. Does not matter what you get you will have to learn to work on it and tune. All engines are subject to an air leaks and other problems. I seal most of my engines when I take them out of the box new before ever starting them.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#7968
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
hey 46u do you have a link to how and where you seal or all gasket and part locations would be good
ORIGINAL: 46u
Please do not yell cap lock! Well once again has a lot to do with condition and what has been done to the Savage. The Savage 21 is the first generation Savage and has some week points that were fixed in the newer generation Savage. Bottom line any thing you buy or trade for used you are taking a chance unless you can see it run and check it out as well as know what you are looking at. Does not matter what you get you will have to learn to work on it and tune. All engines are subject to an air leaks and other problems. I seal most of my engines when I take them out of the box new before ever starting them.
Good Luck
Please do not yell cap lock! Well once again has a lot to do with condition and what has been done to the Savage. The Savage 21 is the first generation Savage and has some week points that were fixed in the newer generation Savage. Bottom line any thing you buy or trade for used you are taking a chance unless you can see it run and check it out as well as know what you are looking at. Does not matter what you get you will have to learn to work on it and tune. All engines are subject to an air leaks and other problems. I seal most of my engines when I take them out of the box new before ever starting them.
Good Luck
#7969
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From: Macon,
GA
I tried to find a link last night to post for tattguy12 and the only one I could find is this one, which does not show all.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx
And this is what most use to seal engines.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
You can get the sealer at most auto parts stores and places like Wal-Mart.
Places to sea.
Backing pale of the motor the one when you take the plate off you can see the crank and rod.
Carb where it goes in to the block.
Carb pinch bolt and some times the high speed needle housing.
Do not use too much and make sure you do not get any in the engine or where it should not be. If I can find a link I will post it.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx
And this is what most use to seal engines.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
You can get the sealer at most auto parts stores and places like Wal-Mart.
Places to sea.
Backing pale of the motor the one when you take the plate off you can see the crank and rod.
Carb where it goes in to the block.
Carb pinch bolt and some times the high speed needle housing.
Do not use too much and make sure you do not get any in the engine or where it should not be. If I can find a link I will post it.
#7970

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From: Bay Shore,
NY
ORIGINAL: rcnz
No offence taken at all 46u!
When I say straight run, I wanted to see the max I could get out of it. The test was done on a sloped road - I would estimate approx a 30 degree slope.
My GPS recorded the max speed a 64.3Kph, which converted to mph, is approx 39.6mph
On a flat surface, top speed was around 34mph.
The only peformance mod I have done is dremelled the exhaust manifold...I'm running on 20% Nitro.
RCNZ
No offence taken at all 46u!
When I say straight run, I wanted to see the max I could get out of it. The test was done on a sloped road - I would estimate approx a 30 degree slope.
My GPS recorded the max speed a 64.3Kph, which converted to mph, is approx 39.6mph
On a flat surface, top speed was around 34mph.
The only peformance mod I have done is dremelled the exhaust manifold...I'm running on 20% Nitro.
RCNZ
I figured the top speed of a stock MT2 with an HPI .15 engine would be around 35-40 MPH where this engine lacks is bottom end power.
I think GPS is a good way to test speed, I used my friends wristband GPS to record the top speed of my stand up Jet Ski and it was accurate within 1 MPH. I can confirm accuracy of the GPS because I have been radared numerous times with different radar guns and the top speed was always around 1 MPH give or take at the same speed the GPS recorded. Depending on which make and model GPS you have the way it records top speed is in 2second intervals. So you would have to keep the throttle pinned for at least 2 seconds after you think you hit your top speed for an accurate recording.
You cann’t go wrong with an OS .18 CV-r, it will give you a lot more power so you could gear up and get better top speed and still not sacrifice bottom end. Plus I think its peak rev limit is a lot higher than the stock HPI .15, not sure what the rev limits are on either engine.
#7971
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
thanks 46u just wasnt sure but will do,great communication as always precise info to the tee.
ORIGINAL: 46u
I tried to find a link last night to post for tattguy12 and the only one I could find is this one, which does not show all.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx
And this is what most use to seal engines.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
You can get the sealer at most auto parts stores and places like Wal-Mart.
Places to sea.
Backing pale of the motor the one when you take the plate off you can see the crank and rod.
Carb where it goes in to the block.
Carb pinch bolt and some times the high speed needle housing.
Do not use too much and make sure you do not get any in the engine or where it should not be. If I can find a link I will post it.
I tried to find a link last night to post for tattguy12 and the only one I could find is this one, which does not show all.
http://www.rcracersedmonton.com/rcra...Engine101.aspx
And this is what most use to seal engines.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
You can get the sealer at most auto parts stores and places like Wal-Mart.
Places to sea.
Backing pale of the motor the one when you take the plate off you can see the crank and rod.
Carb where it goes in to the block.
Carb pinch bolt and some times the high speed needle housing.
Do not use too much and make sure you do not get any in the engine or where it should not be. If I can find a link I will post it.
#7972
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From: Tokyo, , JAPAN
Do you have a link to the model that you are using...thanks[8D]

ORIGINAL: rcnz
Its a Garmin ETrex - just strapped it onto the MT2 with a cable tie. Works well!
--RCNZ
Its a Garmin ETrex - just strapped it onto the MT2 with a cable tie. Works well!
--RCNZ
#7973
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
What bearing sizes do you use?
ORIGINAL: 46u
Keep in mind I am running an OS 18TZ so the gearing I am running may not be good for your application as it if fairly high. I run a 15CB with a 49 spur and might go up even higher. I thing they make the Savage race CB from 13 to 20 teeth. Keep in mind you have to change your bearings to use this. For more information you can all ways go to HPI web site and look at the MT2 SS manual.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLST7&P=Z
This is where I get my bearings, they are good bearings but inexpressive.
http://www.avidrc.com/
Keep in mind I am running an OS 18TZ so the gearing I am running may not be good for your application as it if fairly high. I run a 15CB with a 49 spur and might go up even higher. I thing they make the Savage race CB from 13 to 20 teeth. Keep in mind you have to change your bearings to use this. For more information you can all ways go to HPI web site and look at the MT2 SS manual.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLST7&P=Z
This is where I get my bearings, they are good bearings but inexpressive.
http://www.avidrc.com/


