Nitropowered92

Are you sure Grantothismo about those tires you have a link to, your tires look like:

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000581428&I=LXDX80&P=K]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000581428&I=LXDX80&P=K[/link]

Also, what is the difference on having those inserts.

Thanks a ton

joey_k

.

Gruder

My Feedback: (3)

Bruno

It is a Ti chassis, and yes it is very light and like 46u said it is very pricey. Here is a link to the guys site that makes them. [link=http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/]http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/[/link]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I no this is a MT 2 thread but I have a question on my MT Racer. I finally got done breaking in my OS .15 CV-RX and got to run it hard today and I am having one problem or should I say my major’s problem. I read somewhere a long time ago about this but forget what the fix was. On one of my front left universal dog bones keep falling out of the cup on the differential. This is the only one and it is all most out just sitting. The other 3 are up in the cup much farther. All so I have the MT 2 shocks on the back. HPI says they are better then the MT because they thread at the bottom and do not come apart like the original. Bull my came apart all ready. Will check it out to night. PLEASE HELP.

McFlyss

Does any one else's throttle not open completly full so it there a complete circle?? i still have about 1mm left at full throttle, but have the correct gap at idle....

UtahRacer13

What is the best pipe to run with the MT2 18SS? I was thinking of getting the THS Racing Pipe Set for Stadium 1/10 Stadium Trucks. Is that a good pipe for the price?

szyslak096

46U make sure you have 2 o-rings in the inner drive cup and 1 in the outer cup. Without all three there is too much play in the driveline. Also make sure your steering knuckles are tight and have no slop or this will also cause the bone to fall out. I got the aluminum knuckles and the CVDs and haven't had a problem since.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I have the CVD and aluminum knuckles. The CVD came in the MT Racer kit. The problem witch I fixed by shimming some what but I am still worried about is that the end of the CVD just on the front left is barely in the ball joint. The other 3 are fine. Like I said I shimmed it and it is better but still so close to the end. Here is a picture.

One thing is for sure the OS .15 CV-RX rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I all so like the 100cc tank I custom mounted. [X(]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Take a look at this and see the difference? The ones in the back are in a lot more then either of the front but he one on the right of the picture is the worse. Wish I could get it to look like the one on the left of the picture. I even took the differential apart and shim it where the ball end did not move in as much.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

The only thing I do not like about the light chassis is with all the openings all the trash that gets in everything. I run on grass, leaves, pine straw and sticks it is bad enough with out all the openings. [8D]

Talk.Operated.Machine

46u:
You could try putting a small piece of fule line in the cups (I guess in the cup by the wheel) to push the dogbone in abit. Just like the rubber O rings but you can cut it to size. I have done this with mine. It may help, just dont make it to big or it constantly rubbs on the dogbone.

Also did you see they make a heavy duty titanium chassie, like the light weight one, but without the holes! hmmm i want it![sm=greedy.gif]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I have CVD so they all are one piece or should I say connected. I do have one small shim where the CVD goes into the bearing at the wheel and I cannot put in any more as if I do when you tight up the wheel nut it locks up the wheel. I all so took the ball cup out of the differential and put a shim on the ball cup before putting in the case just to make it where it did not fall out just by turning the wheels over by hand. I have not run it since I shimmed it and do not know when I will have a chance. I hate this as now that after all this time of building and buying parts I have it broke in.

Around 2 years and over $1,000! Like I said the OS .15 CV-RX really rips!!!!!!!!!!! It revs so fast at first I thought the slipper was slipping but it was OK. I have the stock flywheel and I am running on cut grass. I guess I am going to have to gear it up.

Yes I have known about these chassis for about 2 years. For what they cost I will stick with the 2.5mm heavy duty that came in my MT Racer kit.

Thanks all for your input!!!! Keep it coming.

Gruder

My Feedback: (3)

46u

My stock MT2 will be used for bashing around the yard, this truck I will be racing on a hard pack clay track, and also some on road racing. Trash and stuff should not be a problem (Hopefully).

Grantothismo

46U:

When you got the CVD kit did it come with some plastic washers? If so they are used to space the CVD. Before you put the CVD into the rear bearing holder, place one or two of these spacers to space the CVD towards the diff. Should fix the problem. If you do not have the spacer you could try one of these and cut it down:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJZ95&P=7

MT2 Beater:

I was using those tires, but have switched this last week. I'll post which I like best the Holeshots or the Bowties.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

The CVD kits came with my HPI MT Racer kit. There is nothing about what you are talking about in the manual. The Racer kit is like what they call the SS kit now before they started making the SS kits. Came with a lot of up grades out of the box. I was looking at it tonight and notice on the front end the one wheel where the CVD is in the ball end farther it had more camber.

I have the titanium adjustable turn buckles and started to adjust them and if you put more camber they go in to the ball end farther. I now have where they are the same on each side. I have asked this question before and will ask again how much camber do most people run? Will some one send me a picture of their MT from the front with the wheels straight so I can see with the stock none adjustable turn buckles.

I have a camber gauge coming with a new set of wheels so I can set camber on all 4 wheels. Hard to do with wheels that have tires on them. I do not know if this makes a big difference on off road but has a lot to do with on road. Guess I will find out. I all so can set my toe in and toe out.
Thanks all for your input.
[8D]

Bruno

Hey guys, do you know if this part fits on the mt2?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ44&P=0

Bruno

McFlyss

YEAH THEY ARE THE SAME AS THESE----
http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...b&part_id=1916
I GOT THEM ON MY RIDE, SEE PAGE 36 FOR FOTO'S.

Bruno

It always depends where you intend to run your truck... On a tight track you want more camber so that the truck slides in corners and not turtle. If there is lots of jumps, you want less camber, because you want the tires to have a little more surface to land, and it will make the truck less bouncy on landings. So trials and errors, to find out whats best for you

Bruno

Grantothismo

46u:
-5 camber on the rear and -1 camber on the fronts, 1 tow on the rear and 1 degree on the front

46u

My Feedback: (3)

How do you tow the rear the rest is no problem. [8D]
Thanks all for the input!!

Grantothismo

1 degree tow stock hubs. The come with 1 or 2 degree tow. I do not know of any 3 degree, but some recomend it on their buggies.

Here is the stock part:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBTA2&P=Z

Nitropowered92

i'm going to buy a body. I decided on the ford f-150. Does it come pre-cut. And if it doesn't what tools will i need to cut it. Also, who here has airbrushed their bodies.

Found a track thats real nice here's a link:

[link=http://www.pasadena-offroad.com/index_001.htm]http://www.pasadena-offroad.com/index_001.htm[/link]

About an hour from my house, what do you guys think of it.

Thanks a ton!!!!!

UtahRacer13

Has any one heard anything or had experience with this .21-.28 conversion for MT2's?

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=710

46u

My Feedback: (3)

As you all know I really like my HPI MT Racer and Nitro Rush. But I need something else to build besides my 1935 Harley VLD so I am going to get a Savage SS 4.6 kit in the next couple of weeks. Been spending a lot of time on the Savage thread lately. Every one keep this thread going.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

This is just what I have heard and do not know this from experience. You will brake more parts and you better beef up the drive train as much as you can and it sill might not be enough. All so every thing fits real tight and you will have to make every thing work with the lack of room do to the big block engine. It will be harder to drive. Let us know if you try it and how it works.