LMAO I thought you were downsizing

I know, I know....its difficult. But am am keen on downsizing. I am going to try to sell my trucks locally first using Craigs list and Kijijji. The prices have been higher there than I have been seeing on ebay, likely because of the lack of shipping cost. Being near Toronto there is enough of a population that things go pretty quickly.

Football,

Obviously this is a pretty good truck. Looking at the number of posts in the thread, how long the truck has been around, and how long it has been discontinued but still widely supported tells you something.

I just got back into the hobby, and this is my first nitro truck. I wanted to go with a Stadium Truck, I wanted 4WD and I wanted a kit. Honestly, this was almost the only choice I had (most everything now is RTR). I am pretty pleased with it so far, though I imagine myself growing out of it quick, or at least wanting to get an MT or Buggy in the near future.

I don't really have anything bad to say about the MT2. Call me biased, which I probably am, I definitely prefer it over the Traxxas trucks I owned before this as far as quality and durability go. Then again, that was also many years ago But still, this is a tough truck, and you can't go wrong with it.

Ho washer for the turbo plug keith. I think it evel tells you that in the manual. And the mt2 is still on production but you can only get the g3.0

Spoon I dont want the tz in my revo I want a 28 in my revo haha Im trying to get the mt2 to hit 65 mph so I need the tz's high speed power in there. Or if I dont get the 28 for the revo I think I will go with a tz since there really killer light engines. But I will still keep the tz in the mt2 lol. I hope they come out with a 21 tz someday that would be killer. There are guys here with tz's in there revos and there killing picco revos and os 21 tm revos like nothing.

i am experiencing this too on a MT2 that i got used. the gearing on it now is 15/52 with the T-15 motor on it. i am not sure if that gearing is correct for that motor. the T-15 motor screws directly into the chassis plate holes w/o a motor mount, so i cant slide the motor back and forth to obtain a good mesh....is that normal? When the car is off, it "drags" when i push it by hand. the rolling friction is coming from the spur/cb mesh. i am accustomed to having a slight bit of play between spur/cb, but this is tighter that.
when driving it, it decelerates with a "geardrag" if you know what i mean. to explain "geardrag" it would be like driving a 1:1 manual transmission car in 1st gear the whole time. you will get up to speed and then when you release the gas it jerks forward and sort of drags to aa stop. if i go wth a smaller cb then i dont think it will reach the spur gear.
Is this normal for a 4wd ST. i hope i am explaining things understandably! Thanx for any help !

You should have some movement with the engine directly bolted, the mount holes on the chassis provide that. I havn't run mine yet and just assume I have a bad spur gear because it clicks regardless of how the truck is meshed and there is no friction. I assume your truck won't run long with how its being described. The 15T bell was not the standard gearing for the .15, it was a 13, the .18ss and the new G3 have standard 15T bells.

I have pics of my newest acquisition. It comes with eight extra rims and a full set of geolander tires that aren't shown. Does anybody have experience or knowledge of the OS .15? The RCU reviews are decent. The OS website says it has .68 bhp compared to the CVRs 1.35 yet it claims the .18 has 10% more power than the .15 which doesn't make sense. That rating seems low.

so a 13t cb is what i am supposed to be using....thanks. good thing i have a vented 13t that was once on my savage. i will bolt that up tonight if the wife and kids allow
thanx for the input.

you can run any size bell you want that wont make this "clicking" you guys are talking about. If it does it when there is no play in the teeth or when there is a ton of play in the teeth that kinda makes it seem that its got nothin got do with the spur gear or the clutch bell....... The brakes on these things are famous for making "clicking" sounds when there not set up right. Or maybe a bad bearing? How about the drive shafts from the transmission to the diffs? Are all your tires the same size? You should never ever run 2 different tires on these things then your just putting extra stress on things. It just doesnt sound like a spur gear problem to me. Broken clutch spring? Bad clutch bearings? Is your clutch touching your flywheel? What size is the spur gear? If its the bigger gear of the 2 then you have to put the transmission spacer in to stop the gear from rubbing on the chassis. Or is the spur gear rubbing on the clutch bell? Do you have a worn out diff cup or stub axle? Hows your muffler bearing?

If you want to use any CB larger then 13T you cant use have the engine screwed directly to the chassis. You will need to use engine mounts. And like eminent said, and I said a few posts back, check the brakes. The disc could be hitting the pads causing that clicking. If your not sure, take the engine out and try rolling the truck back and forth and see what happens. If its smooth then its probably the mesh.
Rob that was a nice find, especially with all those extra wheels. I wouldnt run it with two different tires though. Its going to wreak havoc on the drive train.
With the proper gear mesh you should be able to put a piece of paper between the CB and the spur and feed it through when you roll the truck without tearing the paper. Anything tighter or looser and you are going to eat up the CB

I am going to get a set of front gladiators for the first MT2 and will run a matched set of geolanders on the new truck. Luckily I have a firestorm to run mismatched tires on, I am acquiring quite a few sets of tires with these ebay purchases. I like that the truck has stabilizer bars on it already. We'll see how the .15 compares to a G3.

Can someone put up a video of the mt2 at a track please if it drive on the track like I hope it will I will have buy and have it on the track in the next 2 days thank you in advanced!

Yeah man. The TZ kills. So light and easy to tune. Once the tz has had a pit of use I will go another picco .28 p3 and put it in the revo. But right now the tz is a killer. I hope to see your MT2 go that fast. But you may need brushless, I will be doing a brushless system in mine soon. Traxxas one. Will be a few months though.

Anyway, the TVP's are innovative rc TVPs off there site. www.innovative-rc.co.uk. About 140$ for the 2 plates (AUD). Free shipping though and the plates are of the highest machine quality. Ill check out that rotostart thing, I have an old rotostart lying around Ill let you know if you can fit the shaft in there. They add some weight but they are extremely strong. He has racing tvp's for sale if you are looking for lightweight. But when you have a picco in there you will love the 4mm thick aluminium.

I'm sure it's buried in this thread somewhere, but I can't find it....


What parts are compatible between this truck and the original mt? Mainly concerned with the shock towers and diff cases right now..

also, have people been doing electric conversion to these trucks?

You can check YouTube for some MT2 videos. I am not sure if many tracks have 4WD stadium track classes though ... most seem to be RC10 GT or 2WD ST's. But I guess that would depend on the track.

And as far as buying the MT2, getting it delivered, fully assembled and running with radio gear and servos in 2 days ... good luck with that

P.S. I would post some YouTube videos, but it is blocked at work :-/

Id be happy if there was a track around here to run on....

I have checked youtube there are no track videos, i would have it runing in less then 2 hours of having it i live next to one of the biggest hobby stores around

I watch alot of the races here and nobody uses them for racing for some reason but they are a really great handling truck. Everyone here races losi's, ofna, hpi hellfire and revo's.

Well I finally got my MT1 finished now all I have to do is wait for the weather to get nicer to run it. Took about 3 months of piecing it together anytime I got a few extra $ but it is finally done.

I also got my paint and paint mask in yesterday so I have finished the new body for the MT2. I tried a candy red with Aztec paint mask design, where the mask was I tried out holographic paint for the first time. I pictured the combination looking better maybe next time I will try a blue instead of the red, but I dont think it came out too bad. I am really impressed with how the holographic paint turned out, I think I will use that more often now than regular color change paint. Here are some pics of the new body. You can definitely tell the changes in the holographic paint.

Football dont forget even if you get it put together in 2 hours it is going to take a few more hours to break the engine in correctly so you cant hit the track right away, gonna have to take patience. I was always tempted every time I broke in a new engine/truck to run it like it had already been broken in, but it is worth it knowing your engine will last longer and perform better.

Thats some killer lookin paint man I like it alot. What brand is it? Can you put up a link to a site that sells it? My lhs only has normal colors. Im so sick of winter I wish it was spring already so I could do some bashing. The weather last winter was way better for bashing with higher temps. We have been in the minus 15 to 35 mark for a couple months aleady.

I used Spaz Stix holographic and the Candy Red was Pactra/Testors. I dont think I will use the Pactra/Testors again cuz when I was airbrushing it it had paint cobwebs forming all inside the body and no other paint I have used ever did that. Must just be the different chemicals they used in their paint. Here is a link for the holographic paint. I just went to my LHS and had them order the paint (spaz stix) and mask even tho I could order from this site it just helps the LHS that much more. You can do a search at tower for spaz stix to look around for all the color change paint they have. I think faskolor also has color change paints.


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUZM0&P=7

I also used the Spaz Stix color paint job on my truck, eminent, if you saw the pictures I posted of it. It works great and looks great. However, mine does not look as dramatic as the holographic paint, but it does really come out in sunlight.

Definitely check it out, it is only like 11 bucks a can, which isn't a ton more than a regular can. I mainly just wanted to try it out and see how it turned out, and I am pretty impressed with it.

Great job on the paint job, kantfunkshin. It Looks great, the holographic really pops more than the regular color change I used. Anyways, off to bed for me, keep the awesome pictures coming everyone

What size screws do those GPM knuckles use for mounting the tie rods?

Not sure, I got mine used and it had them already installed. I just checked and it appears to be just a regular HPI ball screw that the previous owner used.

On yours are the main screws and the tie rod screws the same? Mine seem to have different threads. I got these from eminent.

Just checked and they look to be the same.