Official HPI MT2 Thread
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From: .....,
NY
You had to go and point out the yellow springs didnt you??
I try to pretend like they arent there. I emailed team blue star to see if I could get the shock springs from them, they use black, but I never got a response. I might try emailing gpm, dont know how much good it will do but its worth a shot. I dont know why they didnt just use black in the first place. It would have looked much sharper then the BRIGHT yellow
I try to pretend like they arent there. I emailed team blue star to see if I could get the shock springs from them, they use black, but I never got a response. I might try emailing gpm, dont know how much good it will do but its worth a shot. I dont know why they didnt just use black in the first place. It would have looked much sharper then the BRIGHT yellow
Yeah, the SS had a 15T clutch bell but I don't know what the internal gearing is compared to the regular MT2 but assume its the same. The firestorm has a taller 50/19 gearing setup but the internal gearing is 4 versus 52/13(or 15 for G3) and 2.9 internal for the MT2. Overall the FS and MT2 are geared almost the same with the FS being between the 13 and 15 T MT2 versions of the truck. I guess it makes sense to gear two trucks with the same engine and tire size the same but I was surprised the MT2 wouldn't be geared a little shorter to compensate for the 4wd.
Since we are showing pictures of our savages...
This one has a lot of XL parts on it, its an XL without the TVP, rear dogbone and engine.
What you can't see is an RPM skid plate, alumium tank guard, ofna throttle mod, aluminum throttle linkage and some other things I can't remember off hand. The truck has never been driven but will be soon.
This one has a lot of XL parts on it, its an XL without the TVP, rear dogbone and engine.
What you can't see is an RPM skid plate, alumium tank guard, ofna throttle mod, aluminum throttle linkage and some other things I can't remember off hand. The truck has never been driven but will be soon.
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ORIGINAL: nitro-rob
Since we are showing pictures of our savages...
This one has a lot of XL parts on it, its an XL without the TVP, rear dogbone and engine.
What you can't see is an RPM skid plate, alumium tank guard, ofna throttle mod, aluminum throttle linkage and some other things I can't remember off hand. The truck has never been driven but will be soon.
Since we are showing pictures of our savages...
This one has a lot of XL parts on it, its an XL without the TVP, rear dogbone and engine.
What you can't see is an RPM skid plate, alumium tank guard, ofna throttle mod, aluminum throttle linkage and some other things I can't remember off hand. The truck has never been driven but will be soon.
LST2 shocks are great. They handle jumps better I reckon, I love the look of them aswell. I am running 70w in them atm. 100wt for the revo seems ok. I will be jumping the revo fairly high. Just got myself an LST2 body for the savage, cause the chassis is extended I decided to go a bit bigger body and it is a lot stronger then the other pro-line bodies. Can't wait to get my big joes!
I will PM you the links today. I love the ofna throttle setup and will eventually get it on all my trucks. I like your chassis plates, that truck looks like it sits really low.
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From: Bothell, WA
Nice pictures guys. I might look into getting that throttle set up, as the stock one seems kind of ... flimsy. It seems like the spring loaded throttle arm would be better than that "servo saving" throttle set-up that comes stock.
And this should be it for me picture spamming. I am now, 100% done. These pictures do the paint job a little more justice. Especially the last photo.
Changes since last time ... I got a fuel filter on there, and a new clear fuel line so I can see the gas actually prime the carb (was a PITA before). I put the fuel tubing with twist ties on the motor head/heat sink to provide some clearance for the body, as well as some shock protection WHEN I flip it
Then I have the GPM aluminum shocks on there (got the sleeves on, but am still thinking about the Bad Horsie ones to cover those springs
). Then of course the decals, and I took the coating off the body (so glossy now). Let me know what you guys think!




And this should be it for me picture spamming. I am now, 100% done. These pictures do the paint job a little more justice. Especially the last photo.
Changes since last time ... I got a fuel filter on there, and a new clear fuel line so I can see the gas actually prime the carb (was a PITA before). I put the fuel tubing with twist ties on the motor head/heat sink to provide some clearance for the body, as well as some shock protection WHEN I flip it
Then I have the GPM aluminum shocks on there (got the sleeves on, but am still thinking about the Bad Horsie ones to cover those springs
). Then of course the decals, and I took the coating off the body (so glossy now). Let me know what you guys think!



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From: .....,
NY
It looks great matt. I wouldnt even worry about the springs. It actually goes with the body. Now we just need to see some videos of the truck running. And dont worry about spamming pictures. Keep them coming.
Matt - the truck looks great, I agree with Keith about the springs, leave them yellow. It works with the combination of colors on the truck.I've got yellow ones on my storm, too.
I ordered a stock shock tower. My truck is stock right now and I will get more adventurous once I get through the season and tear it down next year.
I ordered a stock shock tower. My truck is stock right now and I will get more adventurous once I get through the season and tear it down next year.
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From: .....,
NY
OK guys. The TZ is in. This is my first time using an engine with a turbo plug. The engine came with a glow plug but no brass washer. The turbo plugs still use a washer right?
Here is what it looks like now. I put the single speed back in for break in purposes.
Here is what it looks like now. I put the single speed back in for break in purposes.
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From: Bothell, WA
Nice Keith, looking good. And yea, with the body on, they don't look too bad. So am going to just roll with it for now.
I sent rob an e-mail asking this already, but might as well post it here too. The clutch bell and spur gear meshing. They mesh together fine, but the clutch bell doesn't perfectly line up with the spur. There is probably 1mm or so where they are not overlapping. I hope that makes sense ... I will try to draw an ascii picture ... looking at the gears from the top or side.
My Assumption of Normal (lined up perfectly):
______ <- Spur Gear
______ <- CB
Mine (slightly off):
||______ <- Spur Gear
______ <- CB
EDIT: The || is a fake gap, because it wasn't posting correctly :P
Is that okay? Should they line up better? Not sure how I would fix it anyways, just figured I would ask before running it more.
I sent rob an e-mail asking this already, but might as well post it here too. The clutch bell and spur gear meshing. They mesh together fine, but the clutch bell doesn't perfectly line up with the spur. There is probably 1mm or so where they are not overlapping. I hope that makes sense ... I will try to draw an ascii picture ... looking at the gears from the top or side.
My Assumption of Normal (lined up perfectly):
______ <- Spur Gear
______ <- CB
Mine (slightly off):
||______ <- Spur Gear
______ <- CB
EDIT: The || is a fake gap, because it wasn't posting correctly :P
Is that okay? Should they line up better? Not sure how I would fix it anyways, just figured I would ask before running it more.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
ORIGINAL: spoonrc
Nice. How do you like the ofna throttle? can you send links for the ofna throttle and aluminium linkage?
LST2 shocks are great. They handle jumps better I reckon, I love the look of them aswell. I am running 70w in them atm. 100wt for the revo seems ok. I will be jumping the revo fairly high. Just got myself an LST2 body for the savage, cause the chassis is extended I decided to go a bit bigger body and it is a lot stronger then the other pro-line bodies. Can't wait to get my big joes!
ORIGINAL: nitro-rob
Since we are showing pictures of our savages...
This one has a lot of XL parts on it, its an XL without the TVP, rear dogbone and engine.
What you can't see is an RPM skid plate, alumium tank guard, ofna throttle mod, aluminum throttle linkage and some other things I can't remember off hand. The truck has never been driven but will be soon.
Since we are showing pictures of our savages...
This one has a lot of XL parts on it, its an XL without the TVP, rear dogbone and engine.
What you can't see is an RPM skid plate, alumium tank guard, ofna throttle mod, aluminum throttle linkage and some other things I can't remember off hand. The truck has never been driven but will be soon.
LST2 shocks are great. They handle jumps better I reckon, I love the look of them aswell. I am running 70w in them atm. 100wt for the revo seems ok. I will be jumping the revo fairly high. Just got myself an LST2 body for the savage, cause the chassis is extended I decided to go a bit bigger body and it is a lot stronger then the other pro-line bodies. Can't wait to get my big joes!
I looked at the big joes but because I am running the K4.6 with 47/18 gearing already I thought it would be a power robber so I went with the mashers. I am putting a set of cool TVP's on my list of things to buy, after a Spektrum radio and CVR.
Matt - you need some cool chrome rims to do justice to that cool paint job.
Matt - you need some cool chrome rims to do justice to that cool paint job.
I am looking at buying a Spektrum DX3.0 or DX3s. Both will cost 250 USD including shipping. What would you guys get? The 3.0 has the Z270 and 590 servos but has a lower radio while the 3s has the better radio without servos. In both cases two receivers are provided. I am leaning towards the 3.0S but wouldn't mind hearing some input from you guys.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
ORIGINAL: nitro-rob
I am looking at buying a Spektrum DX3.0 or DX3s. Both will cost 250 USD including shipping. What would you guys get? The 3.0 has the Z270 and 590 servos but has a lower radio while the 3s has the better radio without servos. In both cases two receivers are provided. I am leaning towards the 3.0S but wouldn't mind hearing some input from you guys.
I am looking at buying a Spektrum DX3.0 or DX3s. Both will cost 250 USD including shipping. What would you guys get? The 3.0 has the Z270 and 590 servos but has a lower radio while the 3s has the better radio without servos. In both cases two receivers are provided. I am leaning towards the 3.0S but wouldn't mind hearing some input from you guys.
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From: .....,
NY
eminent is right. Unless you really have a use for all the bells and whistles on the 3S just go with the 3.0. Its a great radio, you wont be disappointed with it.
I will likely get the DX3s since I have great servos in all my trucks with a few to spare. Plus the telemetry seems really cool. The DX2 doesn't seem worth it for the extra cash that goes into the 3s - any thoughts on this?
I also put a roto start back plate and new and unused 15T clutch bell from one of my savages on the MT2 today and now the truck is 'clicky' and a little rough when it rolls. The clicks happen on the same two areas of the spur gear with a very loose or tight mesh. Considering the clutch bell and spur gear are both savage parts they are obviously compatible so I don't know why its doing this. I hope to just run it slowly at first to break it in a little and see if it clears out. Has anyone else had this problem?
I also put a roto start back plate and new and unused 15T clutch bell from one of my savages on the MT2 today and now the truck is 'clicky' and a little rough when it rolls. The clicks happen on the same two areas of the spur gear with a very loose or tight mesh. Considering the clutch bell and spur gear are both savage parts they are obviously compatible so I don't know why its doing this. I hope to just run it slowly at first to break it in a little and see if it clears out. Has anyone else had this problem?
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From: Dekalb,
IL
Truck looks great Matt,how do the gpm shocks work?My stock ones are bent up and need something better than the stock crappy ones.Let me know how you like them if there good I will look into a set.Your gears will be fine,mine are off a little have not been a problem with it as long as the mesh is correct.I'm gonna try to use a red cat two speed in my mt2 since I have plenty of time,laid off work starting today[
]If I can get it to work it should be pretty cool,my tsunami goes pretty good and it's somewhat like a mt2 so if it works should go good.I recently converted my Kyosho inferno tr15 to the red cat two speed and it's a blast to drive now.I have a extra two speed sitting here so I'm gonna mess with it and see what I come up with on the mt2.
]If I can get it to work it should be pretty cool,my tsunami goes pretty good and it's somewhat like a mt2 so if it works should go good.I recently converted my Kyosho inferno tr15 to the red cat two speed and it's a blast to drive now.I have a extra two speed sitting here so I'm gonna mess with it and see what I come up with on the mt2.
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From: Bothell, WA
nitro-rob,
I had some clicking when I first put my engine in, but I simply adjusted the meshing on the spur/CB and it went away. You can't have it too tight, or too loose, or it seemed to happen. I now just have a little play in the spur/CB gears and no clicking at all when I roll it.
241_racing,
I have not run the car with the GPM shocks yet, but they seem much more sturdy and thick than the stock ones. They are larger bore shocks, with thicker aluminum, so honestly, they have to be stronger than the stock ones (as far as bending/breaking goes). And the larger bore will make them a little better are larger jumps.
I will let you know how they turn out, but I honestly haven't jumped the car much with the stock ones, so I won't have much of a comparison to make.
I had some clicking when I first put my engine in, but I simply adjusted the meshing on the spur/CB and it went away. You can't have it too tight, or too loose, or it seemed to happen. I now just have a little play in the spur/CB gears and no clicking at all when I roll it.
241_racing,
I have not run the car with the GPM shocks yet, but they seem much more sturdy and thick than the stock ones. They are larger bore shocks, with thicker aluminum, so honestly, they have to be stronger than the stock ones (as far as bending/breaking goes). And the larger bore will make them a little better are larger jumps.
I will let you know how they turn out, but I honestly haven't jumped the car much with the stock ones, so I won't have much of a comparison to make.
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From: .....,
NY
I like the GPM's. They hold up well and the larger bodies allow for more oil so you have better damping.
Nitro definitely get one of the 3 channel radios. For the few extra dollars its worth it, especially if you get a truck that uses the 3rd channel.
That clicky you are talking about is probably too tight of a mesh. Make sure the engine is straight too. Sometimes the mounting holes are slightly off and that causes the engine to be a little crooked. You should be able to slip a piece of paper between the CB and the spur and have it roll through smoothly without ripping when the mesh is set right. The spur gear could be out of round too, Ive seen that happen before. Sometimes they just dont come out right from the factory. If the mesh is wrong though you are going to destroy the spur in no time. I would make sure its right before you run it at all.
Also check the brake pad. Sometimes that gets out of line and that can cause the clicky feeling too.
Nitro definitely get one of the 3 channel radios. For the few extra dollars its worth it, especially if you get a truck that uses the 3rd channel.
That clicky you are talking about is probably too tight of a mesh. Make sure the engine is straight too. Sometimes the mounting holes are slightly off and that causes the engine to be a little crooked. You should be able to slip a piece of paper between the CB and the spur and have it roll through smoothly without ripping when the mesh is set right. The spur gear could be out of round too, Ive seen that happen before. Sometimes they just dont come out right from the factory. If the mesh is wrong though you are going to destroy the spur in no time. I would make sure its right before you run it at all.
Also check the brake pad. Sometimes that gets out of line and that can cause the clicky feeling too.
ORIGINAL: KeithjV
I like the GPM's. They hold up well and the larger bodies allow for more oil so you have better damping.
Nitro definitely get one of the 3 channel radios. For the few extra dollars its worth it, especially if you get a truck that uses the 3rd channel.
That clicky you are talking about is probably too tight of a mesh. Make sure the engine is straight too. Sometimes the mounting holes are slightly off and that causes the engine to be a little crooked. You should be able to slip a piece of paper between the CB and the spur and have it roll through smoothly without ripping when the mesh is set right. The spur gear could be out of round too, Ive seen that happen before. Sometimes they just dont come out right from the factory. If the mesh is wrong though you are going to destroy the spur in no time. I would make sure its right before you run it at all.
Also check the brake pad. Sometimes that gets out of line and that can cause the clicky feeling too.
I like the GPM's. They hold up well and the larger bodies allow for more oil so you have better damping.
Nitro definitely get one of the 3 channel radios. For the few extra dollars its worth it, especially if you get a truck that uses the 3rd channel.
That clicky you are talking about is probably too tight of a mesh. Make sure the engine is straight too. Sometimes the mounting holes are slightly off and that causes the engine to be a little crooked. You should be able to slip a piece of paper between the CB and the spur and have it roll through smoothly without ripping when the mesh is set right. The spur gear could be out of round too, Ive seen that happen before. Sometimes they just dont come out right from the factory. If the mesh is wrong though you are going to destroy the spur in no time. I would make sure its right before you run it at all.
Also check the brake pad. Sometimes that gets out of line and that can cause the clicky feeling too.
I played a lot with the mesh from very loose to tight and everything in between and it clicks the same regardless of the alignment and tightness. Its also only happens on the same two parts of the spur gear so I don't think its a mesh issue and think its just a bad spur gear. Its a minor click that was definitely not there with the 13T bell. The change in curvature of the larger bell seems to be magnifying a problem that was there for both bells. I will try running the truck slowly at first and if it burns the spur gear I think the problem will be fixed with a new one.
.
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From: mount hermon, CA
Hi im new to this sight. I have traxxas nitro sport and the piston broke so im going to put it a way for a while and im thinking i wont to get a hpi mt2 what do you think.
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Oh well it looks like I already have that OFNA linkage. I bought it for my mt2 but I did destroy it a little when modding it to fit but I will modify it a bit. Can you show me a picture of your throttle setup nitro-rob if it isn't any hassle? Also the chassis does sit lower, the engine sits a lot lower and so does everything else. The chassis is extended 1 inch at the front and 6mm at the back. It is 4mm thick aluminium, definitely sits lower as its a LCG TVP.
Big Joes are 6.4" high. I have 23mm pro-lines on there now and they are a PITA, sends to much tension to the diffs for bashing so I have ordered the right 17MM hex's and new drive shafts for my revo. The 100WT is stiff but I really like it.
Most of everywhere is out of pro-line stuff as the factory hasn't been producing fast enough. So I don't have my big joes yet but hopefully this week. Keith I don't think you need a washer for the turbo plugs. I have been using the same plug since break in without a washer, I tried putting one on and it just wouldn't fit so I don't use one. Pretty sure you don't need one hah, P3 plugs are expensive though. I have to get some more soon as the Picco uses them aswell.
Btw eminem you should consider putting that TZ into your revo with the trinity big block pipe and header. That trinity pipe is extremely loud but by far the best pipe I have used for the TZ, just lets it open right up! Took me about 1 hr to mod my tz to fit into the revo, extremely easy. Its a bloody power house in the revo when you have the 2 speed setup correct. I am sure you can mod the 3.3 into the MT2 lol!
Big Joes are 6.4" high. I have 23mm pro-lines on there now and they are a PITA, sends to much tension to the diffs for bashing so I have ordered the right 17MM hex's and new drive shafts for my revo. The 100WT is stiff but I really like it.
Most of everywhere is out of pro-line stuff as the factory hasn't been producing fast enough. So I don't have my big joes yet but hopefully this week. Keith I don't think you need a washer for the turbo plugs. I have been using the same plug since break in without a washer, I tried putting one on and it just wouldn't fit so I don't use one. Pretty sure you don't need one hah, P3 plugs are expensive though. I have to get some more soon as the Picco uses them aswell.
Btw eminem you should consider putting that TZ into your revo with the trinity big block pipe and header. That trinity pipe is extremely loud but by far the best pipe I have used for the TZ, just lets it open right up! Took me about 1 hr to mod my tz to fit into the revo, extremely easy. Its a bloody power house in the revo when you have the 2 speed setup correct. I am sure you can mod the 3.3 into the MT2 lol!
Football - you likely won't get anyone in this forum saying to not buy an MT2 if you get a chance, everybody here is a fan.
Spoon - my OFNA mod looks just like Keith's on the previous page and don't have a photo of it accessible right now. What brand of plates are those? Can you still use the roto start with the lowered engine mount?
I bought another MT2 off of ebay last night. I didn't mean to and got carried away but only paid 114 USD with shipping. It has an OS .15 in it - we'll see what the compression is like.
Spoon - my OFNA mod looks just like Keith's on the previous page and don't have a photo of it accessible right now. What brand of plates are those? Can you still use the roto start with the lowered engine mount?
I bought another MT2 off of ebay last night. I didn't mean to and got carried away but only paid 114 USD with shipping. It has an OS .15 in it - we'll see what the compression is like.



