spooner you should keep it all plastic so its lighter and keep the stock rims becaust there lighter too that way your mt2 will be faster

kaki what clutch bell are you using?

hey guys I was wondering if any of you know where the swarbar mounts to on the mt2? The reason im asking is im doing some onroad mods to mine and am thinking of putting a fromt shock tower on the rear so I can get rid of the big shocks and put some smaller lighter lower to the ground shocks on.

ok another on road question do you guys think its ok to have all the contlrole arma angled up just a hair? or shoud they sit at no lower then level? Im not doing that shock tower mod im just adding some fuel tubbing under the pistons of the rear shocks to lower it a bit because there are no choices for mounting holes on the mt2 rear tower.

Sorry, I don't have any video of my car, but I will try to take one.
Here is my clutch bell [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM730&P=7]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM730&P=7[/link]

Keith do you think the gears that kakavia has on his mt2 would fit on your 2 speed?

kakavia I just sold that bell a few months ago thinking that I would never ever need it lol

Hey yeah I may keep it light but there is a bit of flex in the C Hubs and drive knuckles. I will probably only replace them. I am selling much stuff and trying to get a bargin Revo!! I want a revo so bad. I will probably transplant the TZ into the revo lol. Has the TRX got some power? My friends jato 3.3 seems to pick up pretty well but thats all in the gearing and 2wd. Whats it like in a heavy MT eminemguitar?

the trx is great in the revo I can pull wheelies with it most of the time you have to sink alot of money into the tz to be able to use it in the revo so I have heard. You have to get an os 18tm crank, back plate and grind some fins off the crank case. I have aluminum rear hubs and steering nuckles on my mt2 thats all I think im going to use from now on. I had everything aluminum at one time but its all bent up now.

True? Damn! Thats ok. Still want a revo, awesome MT's. My nosram savage pulls wheelies when it shifts to second, bloody insane. Going with a Picco P3 in the other, have my LCG TVP's on the way aswell as losi shock mounting kit. Next purchase is a set of big joes 40's on axial beadlocks 40!

anybody know of a 48p or 32p spur gear that fits the mt2? or are they all 1m?

Do you just want one for a single speed? I know you can get a 49 tooth 1m spur gear

You mean the spur gears? Yea, they'll fit. Its just a C clip that holds the gears in place. Take a look on tower hobbies., they have a bunch of different spur gears for the 2 speed.
Ill email you tomorrow about the tranny. Just got home from work

sweet sounds good man

ok, i pulled the clutch bell off of the motor and found that the shoes are very worn but the springs are intact. interestingly when i pull the spring loaded shoes away from the shaft, one shoe seems to have more tension than the other. i am just going to replace the shoes and springs(any suggestions/links). Also i noticed that the truck had 15/52 gearing, i dont think that is correct even though it fits. the mesh is tighter than usual and when i roll the truck on the ground,the drivetrain is fully engaged all the time with the motor off.
any more suggestions ?????

ok, i pulled the clutch bell off of the motor and found that the shoes are very worn but the springs are intact. interestingly when i pull the spring loaded shoes away from the shaft, one shoe seems to have more tension than the other. i am just going to replace the shoes and springs(any suggestions/links). Also i noticed that the truck had 15/52 gearing, i dont think that is correct even though it fits. the mesh is tighter than usual and when i roll the truck on the ground,the drivetrain is fully engaged all the time with the motor off.
any more suggestions ?????

[/quote]
If one shoe has more tension then the other then the springs are shot. I believe the right springs would be .9. The HPI racing clutch is very good or you can look into aluminum clutch shoes.
I was running 15/52 on mine and it worked fine. There is no center diff so when you roll the truck the shafts and the cb are going to spin.

ok cool thank you for the information. i am going to replace the clutch shoes and springs for sure[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Teflon-Clutch-Shoe-Spring-Set-87028-for-Nitro-RS4_W0QQitemZ300284069737QQihZ020QQcategoryZ44028Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262]with these[/link]. i was mostly worried about the drivetrain being engaged when the truck was pushed. that made me think that my mesh was far too tight.

if you follow the link, you will notice at the bottom that it specifies the rs4 3 18ss. it does not mention the mt2. i am assuming that these are the same clutch shoes. keep in mind that the truck has the .15 in it. will these shoes still fit and operate?

Those should work fine. What kind of pilot nut do you have on your engine? Can you take a picture?
The mesh could still be too tight. You need to take a piece of paper and see if it can slip between the CB and the spur when you turn it without shreading the paper.
when you roll the truck back and forth the center shafts will spin. If you hold the truck up and turn one wheel the other wheel should turn the other direction.

not sure what a pilot nut is...i will look it up when i get home and take pictures of the clutch bell and gear area. i will do a gear mesh test with paper as well. (make a video)
"when you roll the truck back and forth the center shafts will spin. If you hold the truck up and turn one wheel the other wheel should turn the other direction."
it does.
thanks for the reply. i am stuck in prison....i mean at work. so, tomorrow i will have pictures and possibly a link to a video.

yes single speed but having trouble finding a non 1m pitch but thanks good to know i might have to get that one.

I dont think you will find much. The only spurs I know that are a direct fit are the plastic ones and they are 1M. 47 up to 52 I believe. The savage steel spurs fit but with a modified nut. So I am not sure if you will find much in the savage section.

I am very interested in the modified nut w/ savage gear. What kind of modified nut?

Hey everyone, I bought an HPI Nitro MT 1 on the day it came out (a long time ago). I used it often and took very good care of it. Well, it has been a couple years since it has gotten any attention. I cleaned it up, and ordered a new engine for it (the HPI G3.0). I have a few questions....

1. What maintenance would you recommend since it has been sitting on a shelf so long?

2. With this new engine, do I need to get a new flywheel, clutch shoes, springs, clutch bell, etc?

3. Which fuel tank should I get? Can I use the MT2's 100cc tank as a direct replacement with my MT1 tank?

4. Which engine mount should I get?

5. Which air filter should I get?

Sorry for all of the questions. There is a lot of information to dig through in this thread, and I have been away from nitro RC for a long time. Thanks for all of your help.

-TC

tcoop25 I would check the shock oil and diff grease. The fuel lines probably need replacing too.
Im pretty sure you can use that flywheel and but I think you are going to need a pilot nut for that shaft. Id get new clutch shoes too since the old ones are probably worn and youre going to want good shoes to go with that new engine.
You should be able to put the 100cc tank on there without a problem
This engine mount will work fine http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=es&partNo=86000
This is the air filter I have on mine http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=87207

Welcome, and never worry about asking questions. There is a great group of knowledgeable people on this thread that are always more then willing to help out.
Post up some pictures as you do your upgrades.

Hey guys,

Got my truck in yesterday and have been really going at it. It is "done" I am pretty sure, but have a few questions.

I got a used engine on the cheap (OS .18 CV-R) and the guy said that it needed a new pull-start clutch bearing. I put in the new bearing that I ordered and when I pull the pull-starter it kind of sticks when the piston hits the bottom of the cylinder. This isn't just with the pull starter, but also when you turned the engine by hand. This is my first nitro car, is this normal? Or is there something more wrong with the engine than the clutch-bearing that the guy stated?

In the kit I got, it was missing a few parts, but overall most everything was there. The only thing that I have "left out" so far is the washers that go between the rims/wheels and nuts. The directions say to have the wheel/tire, then the washer, then the nut to tighten it down. I just have the wheel/tire then the nut. Is this a real issue? I was wanting to test the car out quickly, just to see if it runs at all, and wouldn't think this would be a problem ... but I want to get some washers before I really run it.

I had some clicking coming from the drive train/spur gear area. And just fixed it (editing my post now). I guess it was just too close before, now it is quite smooth and no more clicking or vibration.

Any help would be great, and here are some pictures!