side mounts are not lining up. i got the hpi silver aluminum mounts. 13/52 gearing

You'll have to use a dremel to widen the holes so you can adjust the mesh properly. I had to do this with mine too.

here are the pics. I must have mis-read something, I thought this was a direct bolt-in mod when using the specified mounts. the last pic shows how the mounts sit on the chassis when the mesh is in place.

I used the Redcat Racing alloy mounts on mine and it worked fine. I had to widen the holes left to right to get the gear mesh right but they line up the other way.
Check out urchobby.com for the engine mounts. Kurt is great to deal with and Im sure he can get them right out to you ASAP
Actually do you have the spur gear installed in the right direction?
If you zoom in on this picture you should be able to see the engine mount

I wonder if i have an older chassis with different mounting holes. I got the truck used and it had the .15 engine. I believe the spur gear is correct because it meshed correctly when the .15 was in there.
When i looked closely at your picture, i see that the flywheel is mounted closest to the crankcase front bearing....on my engine there is this spacer (as seen in picture) that separates the crankcase from the back of the flywheel. is this spacer necessary? having it on leaves very little space for the clutch pilotnut to grab the crankshaft. i am about to try to take it off and see if the holes line up correctly after that.
thanx

edit: it doesnt work without the spacer between the crankcase and the flywheel. If it is taken out, then the pilot nut cannot screw far enough down on the crankshaft to put the clutch shoes on properly.
How can i tell if the spur gear is possibly in the wrong position, my slipper pad is to the rear of the spur gear. is that the right side.

Glad the info was useful Savagebane.

That spacer you have between the flywheel and bearing isn't used, you have to take it out....it is the "Drive Hub" item number 10 in the engine parts book. (that is usually useless for cars because it is really a propeller hub) Did you put a collet on?


This is what you want on the engine shaft after it is all bare and you only have the crank showing: (no "drive hub" or anything):

Going out starting from the engine bearing:

HPI washer: Z699, collet 86022, flywheel 86021, pilot nut A805, then put on your springs/clutch shoes, then HPI washer Z694 (not Z699 make sure), clutch bell of your choice, then HPI spacer Z845 and then HPI screw Z541 with threadlock.

That was all taken from page 21 of my MT2 SS manual and it all should line up at least if your spur assembly is good and your chassis matches either the MT2 SS, MT2 SS+, or MT2 G3.0 RTR. I don't know what chassis you have but if it is the same that is the exact setup you want on the engine.

Also the engine mount is the the following, it looks the same as the one KeithjV posted:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLR3&P=7

The engine mount you have looks the same as my much older now kit MT Racer - but that engine mount you have may or may not match the one I linked.

savage shoestring is right, that spacer has to come out. That will let the engine mounts line up with the holes. What type of pilot nut are  you using?
Nice step by step there shoestring.

Check this out - electric or nitro version. I wonder if they are replacing the MT2? This is all i have now, somebody posted it in the e-firestorm thread.

I said that in the thread here :P
Its based off the failure Hot Bodies Lightning GT10 ST.

I'll be honest the electric one I like how it looks the nitro one forget. Looks too cramped together and like it would be a pain to work on.

hey everybody, im new to the forums. ive just purchase the mt2 g3 and i was wondering if there are any good websites to purchase hop-ups?

Welcome Thunder and congrats on the new truck. What kind of hop ups are you looking for?
GPM makes a lot of stuff for the MT2's

thank you, the truck is a blast to drive. im looking for any parts, but mainly looking for suspension upgrades. how are the quality of the GPM and are there any other brands to look out for?

I have GPM shocks on mine and they work fine. They are made nice and solid and seem to function well.
There arent too many companies that make hop ups. I wish RPM made arms for the MT2 but there is not enough demand.
Do an ebay search for the shocks. Maybe an alloy tranny mount?
Does yours have CVD's?

everything is completely stock. i will look into the gpm shocks. thanks you for the advice.

this is my very first rc car so bare with me as i may be asking a lot of questions that have already been answered.

Never feel bad about asking questions.

Only advice on GPM parts I have is stay away from the aluminum arms (unless you want to make a shelf queen)
I got a set and took them off. After a jump they cracked the hub that attaches the arms to the chassis, and royally bent the pins that hold them on. Honestly it wasn't even that high of a jump(under 2 feet) to cause the amount of damage that was done. I had to cut them off the pins were so bent... Went back to the nylon ones and have had no issues since.

Aluminum parts I use: steering saver set, front knuckles, rear wheel hubs, Front shock tower, and rear shock tower.

I actually recommend the front knuckles seeing on the 2 trucks I own had issues with the knuckles stripping and falling off. Put the aluminum ones on and never had an issue since.

thank you for the advice guys.

i will be ordering the f/r shocks and front knuckles this week. is there anything else i should worry about upgrading?

Personally I just upgrade if I keep breaking a particular part or needed it for something else

The rear shock tower I got so I could do a wing mod and have a place to mount the wing easy, if I used the stock nylon one it wouldn't have mounted as easy and would have required some modding.

The front Shocktower I got alum cause I was actually converting a MT1 and the aluminum shock tower cost me $2-3 more than the nylon ones part tree (only part I needed off the tree btw) so I ordered it with the rear.

kinda the same reason the rear hubs. got the rear hub and front knuckle set for less than I could get just the front knuckles.

Now I can't wait just ordered a new stock aluminum chassis, and the solid plastic tie rods and something else (forgot what) for $25 with shipping

BTW been needing the chassis plate cause mine is actually a MT1's plate and my tank almost ruptured from rubbing the drive shaft due to having to jimmy rig the MT2 parts on.
Now all that will be left from its time as a MT1 is the diff's gears, the center gear, dogbones, radio and servo

I've modded this truck so much and had it stripped so many times I can almost assemble it in my sleep

My mt2 came today :]. It seems alright. But it did come with a half tank of fuel so I'm not too happy about that. I'll be taking the engine apart tomorrow to check for rust.

I tested the the diffs by turning one wheel one way and the other wheel spun the other way  (with a little lag at first). Seems good. The only thing is that it sounds a bit rough when I push it on all fours. Could this be the center gears/diff (is there a center diff?) gone bad or is this just a normal thing?

It came with the rotostart, but it's missing the silver wand part, and the battery and charger (which he said it would come with). If he doesn't send them I'm just going to buy a pull start instead of investing in a battery and charger. I might do it anyways so it's just one less thing to worry about.

It came with a bunch of spares and 5 extra servos. Most of them are frankensteined with plugs from one jimmy-rigged onto another. None of them are the same brand though, so could someone tell me what the stock servos are so I can find which ones they are? There's a hi-torque servo installed on the steering and a "race" servo on the throttle. Later on I'll post what all the ones are that it came with.

As far as I can tell, the only other thing it's missing is the air filter. Which one would fit the T-15 engine? Or are they all pretty much the same?

Also, the chassis is red :/. He said it came out of the box like that, but I'm not so sure. There's a little scratching on the back edge where I can see purple underneath, and the picture on the box is of a purple chassis.

did you purchase it from a seller off craigslist?

No I bought it from and ad here on RCU

ADDITION:
Here are the servos that came with it.
Installed:
steering = jr sport st125mg hi-torque
throttle = jr racing z270 standard race servo

Extra:
HPI sx-1 - - missing most gears
Airtronics 94102 - - no plug
Hobbico cs-35 - - no plug
Futaba s3003 - - jimmy rigged plug
hitec hs-311 - - standard jimmy rigged plug

Besides the HPI and the Hobbico servos, Ihaven't checked to see the condition of the gears. I haven't tested any of them to see if they work, either.

I'd check to make sure the motors not rusted before buying a pullstart and airfilter for it.
Cause if its rusted its not worth fixing seeing a Brand new T-15 generally costs around $65 with pull start and airfilter included.

Stock servos are labeled either HPI SX-1 or HPI SF-1's personally I'd keep the jr high torque as the steering if its working

I got my savage like that with a friggin tank of fuel in it the engine was rusted. I swear how hard is it to drain the damn tank before you send it. Guy sounds like he wasn't that bright so you might be needing a new motor seeing thats how he treated the truck.

Personally I'd strip the paint off with paint remover or just buy a new bottom plate for $20. But I'm pretty anal about those kind of things.

Take a pic of it lets see what kind of shape its in

Yeah I'm gonna just leave the servos that came on it because they seem to work pretty good. Just need to do some tinkering with the throttle linkage.

Forgot to say that only the futaba servo has a horn on it. I'm probably just going to sell the extra ones because Idon't really have a use for them.

For now I'm just left with the question about rolling it. Should it be really smooth, or is it normal for it to be a little rough, like there's some internal resistance somewhere?

EDIT:
So I emailed the seller and he said he's send the battery, charger, and wand on saturday. In case I do need a new engine, what do you all recommend, roto or pull start? I'm leaning towards pull, just so that battery doesn't die while I'm out and I get stuck not being able to even start the engine

I like roto systems because I've been stranded with a broken pull cable. I've forgotten my roto starter box and just shared one of my friends for the afternoon in the past. Its a pretty even split on preference with people whenever this topic comes up. Having the extra battery and equipment to lug around can be a pain.

Well seeing its a T-15 if you do need a new engine and get another T-15 get the pullstart one and you can put the roto start plate on it and swap off when you don't feel like charging a battery or just get sick of it.

I think I actually might go back to pull on mine seeing my motor always stats up in under 1 second of the roto start button being pushed.