Hello, just got an MT2 G3.0 second hand. Its my first nitro and from what the seller described, it still needs to finish breaking in. Is there anything i need to look for before firing up this beast? Only reason why I asked is cause it is used, I really dont know what to expect and any advice can help. Very much a noob to nitro, need all the help I can get. I do have the instruction manual so I've got the basics covered. Any tips and will work, Mods and so forth. Great job on the thread! Hope my first experience to nitro will be a great one. Thanks to all!!!

All you need for the LRP is the engine mounts. You can use the flywheel and clutch assembly from the stock engine. Make sure you post some pictures of the build.

sixty congrats on the new truck. The first thing I would check are the diffs. Try rolling the truck back and forth and then turn one wheel in each direction to make sure they turn smoothly. After that check out the spur gear for damage. If everything looks good then reset the needles to factory settings and fire it up. Good luck, keep us posted.

Is anyone running larger tires? Ihave a set of proline flat iron's and they are 4.8" compared to the standard 4.1. Icalculated that the roll-out switching to a 13 tooth bell from the 15 gives the same rollout (or slightly lower).

Just dont forget to take in to account the added weight and strain on the diffs with the larger tires.

Thanks for the tips KeithjV, I've already set the needs to factory settings, checked the spur gear and about to check the diffs. Everything else seems to be in good shape. Do I need to flush out the grease on the diffs and use silicone? Whats the benefit of that? I plan on swapping out the factory tires and go with some Proline road rages for on road and bow ties for off road. What's the calculation for roll out?

Just got done checking the diffs. Rolled the car and spun the wheels. All checks good. Need to flush and fill the shocks. 35wt all around, what do guys think?

Created a twitter account!!!

I have a rollout spreadsheet if you want it - just send me your email address via pm.

Just spoke to HPI; They are paying for shipping both ways and doing a repair or sending me a new one.

Thank you HPI

HPI customer support is excellent.

The shock oil is going to depend on your driving style and driving surface. You might have to try a few different weights till you find one that suits you.
The benefit of the diff oil over grease is you can adjust the amount of action the diff has by using different weights. Heavier diff oil will limit the diffs giving more of a posi traction where the lighter will allow full diff action. Again you can adjust this to match your driving style and the track you run on.

PM sent nitro-rob.

Okay, I run 35wt on my E-firestorm all around and it seems to work for me just fine. I'll use that as my base and work from there. Don't know where to start with the diff oil though. I'll start with 10K and see. I'll keep you guys posted. One more thing, how do I shim my diffs? I've read somewhere in this thread (too many pages to remember from) that diffs require shims. Thanks guys

I would shim the diff's. All of my RC's are/were weakly shimmed from the factory. I am starting to put 100,000 in mine and am liking the lack of diff steer. It depends on where you are driving and how. I slide my truck a lot and don't want a lot of diff'ing (is that a verb?).

Shimming is easy - take the diff apart, clean it and add shims to minimize play but leave a little play. Its sort of qualitative to judge - adding too many is obvious and you will feel it when you put the shim together. If you add shims incrementally and assemble the diff between (press it together, you don't have to screw it down) you will feel improvement and know when you went over. Not very scientific but effective.

I installed flat-iron tires, .5 inch taller than normal and put on a 13T bell - the rollout is actually slightly shorter than I thought because the tires weren't as big as first thought. It looks cool. RCDAMPER on ebay is sending me free springs for the truck because the spring rates were ridiculous on the ones they sent me.

To all the PM's - sending out the rollout sheet shortly, just need to clean it up.

Keithvj shoot me a PM if you like.

Savagebane, these are the optional cvd's. they were stock on the MT2 SS+ kit which is now discontinued but they are optional for other MT2's:

note the 2 mm front rear difference:

front:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6301&search=Go

rear:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6302&search=Go

listed on HPI page under optional:

http://www.hpiracing.com/kitoptions/10410/

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDT99&P=SM

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWBB8&P=SM

i have stock geo's right now and for snow the top set and for all else the other? anybody think this will be a good match? rollout isn't much of something i care to take into affect because i have to make another custom pinion in order to change gear ratios. Thanks

Gearing question;

I know th 13tooth clutch bell is the smallest from HPI

Is there another bell that will fit with no modification?
Or a different spur gear? (larger)
Or even a bell/spur combo that will drop right in?


I am trying to gear this truck for a short course, so top speed is not needed.

the smallest using regular bearings is 13t. The old MT Racer had a 12 T cb (part number A812) but you need to go to a needle bearing on the cb. There's a post in here somewhere I mentioned it to someone, maybe has part numbers.

What spur are you running? 52 is biggest that I know of. If you have a 49 on there now you'll notice better acceleration with the 52 for sure. My MT2 is pretty fast for me with 13/52 even though thats a slow ratio. I ran with a guys Savage with 18/47 and I didnt get smoked all that bad with my OS .18 cvrx.

I have 13/52 right now and it is a little slow for my local course. It is such a short track that acceleration is more important than top speed.

Maybe I will just get some super low profile tires to help.

Thanks

Got the spreadsheet nitro, well done.

As far as the rear shock lower mount, I'm assuming that the three pre drilled holes on the A-arms are or can be used as shock mounts. And now the questions... (Pause for affect)... What do i need to do this? Not really enjoying the fact that the lower shock mounts directly to the hinge. For one, you'd always have to remove the tire to remove the shock for whatever reason.

What about the front A-arms? is there any aftermarket parts that allow different lower shock mounts?

rglbegl, how well does the MT2 perform on the track? I'd like to run this on a track...


Thanks guys!

The only aftermarket arms Ive found are aluminum which I would stay away from because they bend. If you are using it strictly on road than it might be ok. Unfortunately RPM doesnt make arms for the MT2. Ive emailed them a few times but there doesnt seem to be enough demand for them to make them.
Ive run mine on an indoor track a few times now and the only real problem I noticed was that the stock tires dont hook up well on hard packed surfaces. When youre bashing it doesnt matter but when you are trying to make a hair pin turn on a tight track you notice. Pin type tires would work better on hard tight tracks. But other then that I hung pretty well with the brushless buggies that were running on the track at the same time.

It does fairly well on a track with the right tires and a little suspension work.
If you are a competitor you may want to look elsewhere as the MT2 does not have a huge aftermarket selection of mods. But if you are just going to the track for some fun this thing handles just about anything. It jumps great, corners decent, and has great top end. With a better stearing servo and lower gearing, or a stronger motor, it would keep up almost anything on the track.


I have a neighborhood short course that is hard packed dirt with tight corners. It cant keep up too well there. But on the real track with WAY more room it does much better.

MT2 Roller I'm selling is listed on ebay now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-MT2-Roller-4...lenotsupported

Just thought I'd post that just in case anyone needed a parts truck.

Looks like an MT and not an MT2 - they are different.

hey keith jv

just thought id tell you im not getting an lrp anymore the 18ss motor is fine that i got
i got some better fuel for it im getting an e 10 drift car for a project to muck around

Oh thanks I was told it was an mt2 but i'll take your word and change it.

No problem - I am sensitive to that because I bought an MT instead of an MT2 that was mislabeled and the guy got bad feedback and some sort of slap on the wrist from ebay.

Oh yeah I remember you saying that and I mentioned that I had almost bought the same truck.

I just brought a MT2 18 ss kit version, has anyone ever had one of these how do they run compared to firestorms? i am goin to convert it to 2wd i know it is possible but what sort of effect will it have on the car?