I just went for a bash in the park with the savage with a buddy. He just finished his X-SS build and the truck was just broken in. We had a blast, both trucks ran perfectly with no half tank lean issues, temperatures were in the low 200's even though we tuned for smoke and performance. The trucks performed so well - the cool air helped. I was doing endless wheelies with perfect control. I went from one end of the part to the other with the front end up on command. One of the best drives ever.

I also condinued the break in on the CEN. A few more heat cycles and it should be ready for leaning....hopefully there will be another day like today for me to rip it otherwise it will just be ready for the spring.

Here is the difference in size between the CEN GST 7.7 and a Savage X SS.

Wow that thing is huge!

Hello everyone,

I'm thinking about buying this engine for the MT2:

O.S. 18CV-RX ABC w/11J Rotary Carb
<font color="#0000ff">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&amp;I=LXGGP7&amp;P=ML</font>

Can I use the same flywheel, clutch bell/shoes/bearings, and pilot shaft that islisted in the MT2 manual for the original .15 engine? Since I don't have the original engineI unfortunately have no original parts, so I just want to ensure I buy all the correctitems for a direct fit...


Also, which of these two engine mounts will work best for the .18CV-RX?

HPI Aluminum Engine Mount:
<font color="#0000ff">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&amp;I=LXN373&amp;P=7</font>

HPI Engine Mount 20mm Purple:
<font color="#0000ff">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&amp;I=LXCLR3&amp;P=7</font>

Thank you for your assistance!</p>

i think the second one would be better its the same mount o used with my os 18tz-tx im not completely sure it it would work for the cv rx though

You can use this pilot shaft on that engine http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXM720&amp;P=7

This engine mount is a much cheaper option that works just as well http://www.urchobby.com/proddetail.php?prod=02128B

I would go with aluminum clutch shoes. They grab better and will last longer.

Thanks again for your help guys, I really appreciate it!

I just got back from the hobby shop with a new OS .18TZ-TX engine!



 

OOOOOh Boy. Its on now! Wait till you get that thing installed...

As far as I can tell there were 2 guys out there (on here) lol that put the tz in the mt2 before I put mine in, Its nice to see that nobody is as scared of the tz now as they were about a year or so ago. I remember reading this thread and every second post from 46 was a warning to most users not to put the tz in there mt2 and to go with the cv-rx. Skatin, your going to have a blast with that thing its INSANE!!!!!!!!!!!!! But heat up the engine with a hair dryer before you start it or pull it over to prevent premature wear on the piston, the pinch is extreemly tight on the tz. Take your time breaking it in and it will run for galons without dropping in power.

your in the tz club now brother i used this break in method on mine[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=397]heat cycle method[/link]

Thats the method I use on all my engines. Works great

My preferred method as well.

That's a great article about engine break-in! I especially like the trick mentioned at the bottom about using a sharpie to mark the flywheel when the piston is bottom dead center because I've been pulling the glow plug out of my vehicles during cool downs so I could see the piston position. I'm going to implement that trick on all of my vehicles!  

I'm still a good week away from breaking the new TZ in because I just ordered the HD final gear set (x2), HD cup joints &amp; shafts to ensure everything is strong enough to handle this sweet engine.  

Does HPI make an HD version of the smaller bevel gears inside the differential case? Or, are the HD final gear sets good enough so that I won't have an issue with those bevel gears?

</p>

As long as you shim the diffs properly so there isnt too much play you will be fine. And no 180's on WOT. Thats a diff shredder.

like keith said no donuts on WOT you dont need much throttle to get it spinnin

I just purchased a used MT2 with a HPI.15. It seems that sometimes as I throttle up, the truck just doesn't want to move. The engine increases inRPMs but this does not translate into movement orincreased speed. I removed the engine and exposed the clutch. Being new to R/C I am unsure what to look for. The clutch bell has a fair amount of play in it, I think. I can see the clutch shoes when I move the bell forward. Should I add shims or a washerbetween the shaft screw and bell to preventthe bellfrom moving forward? Or am I way off on my analysis? Also, how do you determine if the shoes or bell is worn? Should I install a new clutch assembly? Thanks.

Got my rebult motor broke in, and it's running good now. Only have one thing I want to do now. Wondering what type of pipe you all would recommend for low to mid RPM operation(where I end up running the most). I'm currently running the aluminum pipe, but it seems to take forever to get on the pipe, and so slow to pick up speed. The gearing is geared more for torque than speed(run in a lot of sand, so I need more torque to get going), yet it still seems to take a while to get up to speed. Everything is tuned right. My Revo running an OS 18TM with Trinity High Flow pipe, and it gets up to speed faster as well as going faster(and it's a monster truck with second locked out due to a failure of the 2 speed clutch). Thanks.

dsrtrat4if you can move the clutch bell enough to see the shoes something is wrong. Take the bell off and check the shoes for overly rounded edges or signs of extreme wear. Check the springs as well to make sure they arent broken. If the RPMs are coming up but the truck isnt moving its 99.9% a clutch problem. Also check the slipper clutch. If your still not sure take some pictures and post them and we can point it out from there. Oh and welcome to the forum.

Straick what engine is that again?

It's the HPI G3.0. Sorry I forgot to mention that.

DSRTRAT - The first thing I would do is hold the spur gear tight and push the truck on the ground to see if the wheels turn. This should tell you if the problem is the spur gear. If you have a clutch problem start the truck and hold the spur gear and rev it up and see if the spur gear receives any power. The best way to check the clutch is to take the bell off and inspect it and see how worn the shoes are. I've also had oil get in the bell and the shoes slip.

A related story:
I buddy of mine had problems with his MT with the .15 in it and he had a stripped button and didn't have enough compression to push the truck. New button and it was fixed. I never experienced a truck that would run but wasn't strong enough to drive.

Keith - we did it again but this time you beat me by four minutes.

You need to type faster brother..

Thanks for the reponse. I held the spur gear, pushed the truck and the wheels did not move. I assume this is what should happen.On a side note, what is the function of the spring in front of the spur gear? I'm hesitant to hold the spur gear when the engine is running as well as during a rev up. Won't the clutch engage on rev-up and turn the spur gear? I don't want to lose a finger (I almost did on one of my planes).Idid remove the clutch bell and I think the shoes look fine. They don't look beat up. The springs are really tight and I was suprised on how much force is required to openthe shoes. With respect tp your related story, you reference a "stripped button". What isthis button you are referring to? I apologize forquestions regarding probably basic terms, however I am still learning the hobby. One more item. The exhaust coupler has a small hole in it, don't know how. Will this significant ly affect the engine performance or can I take my time to replace? Thanks again.

Keith,
The shoes look fine and the springs are tight. Any othe suggestions? Thanks.

The spring in front of the spur gear holds tension against the slipper clutch. If the tension is too loose the spur gear will just spin freely and then your wheels won't move. But, if the tension is too tight you'll end up strippng the spur gear. You should just replace the exhaust coupler, they're only a couple of bucks. Any holes in the exhaust will just lead to poor performance. </p>