Personally I support myself

I barely goto my LHS's mainly cause 95% of the time they do the OHH WE CAN ORDER IT AND HAVE IT IN 3 DAYS.
Things my LHS are good for that I need: Paint, bodies(there very reasonable on them and have a HUGE choice), rims, wings, and Savage parts(They have tons of them)
They barely stock any MT2 parts. Their overpriced on their vehicles, batteries(got a 1800NiCD for the same price I paid for a 5000NiMh off a ebay store), radio gear, engines, and servos
It also don't help they are 20 miles away and that is about $6 in gas(round trip), then there's state and county taxes(why I won't order from tower) which adds around 10% onto the bill.

Actually I'm going there today due to needing paint, a wing, and trying to find dogbones for some monstrosity I'm making. (trying to make a Brama 10b take a brushless system )


BTW nice looking truck. I also always liked the baja looking bodies. Too bad they wouldn't won't work with my masher 2ks I kinda have to stick with the silvarado bodies or when I turn the wheels catch the body . Your truck also kinda proves what I thought, SC trucks are just stadium trucks with smaller tires and a Baja body slapped on em

I do a mix of local shops and ebay. I figure if the shop needs to order it then so could I and it usually comes in faster on ebay since the local shops have delivery every friday in the summer and every two fridays in winter.

Interesting build. Im curious to see how it turns out and how it handles. Keep us updated

Weird question/scenario.....

I just received a few MT2 HD Cup Joints from two different U.S. sellers...

Two were manufactured in Japan - they have a dull finish but look real tough. 
Two were manufactured in Taiwan - they have a real shiny finish and look cheaply made.

Is this common for HPI parts?

Hey guys,

I have done some work on my mt2 - the two speed and big block are out of the truck as a single speed matched with a small block make the truck much more controllable in the winter - and just completed a DUAL TANK MOD for it. I now have two tanks mounted on the truck and the second tank is in the original position of the battery pack. The tank fits like a glove in this position, although some cutting to the radio box was required. Now, since my mt2 is mainly for on-road use, I aimed to moving its center of gravity as far forward as possible as the wheelies with the big block got quite annoying. To achieve this, I happily moved the receiver between the shock tower and body mount (just fit) and zip-tied the hump pack on top of the steering assembly. I installed a three-way switch also so that charging does not involve me cutting and removing the hump pack every time. The pictures below speak the rest. If you have any questions about the mod feel free to ask. Peace

Interesting.
From the pics it looks like the exhaust is piped into the original tank and that the original tank feed nitro into the place that the exhaust is supposed to be. Am I right?
Only thing I would ask is if it suffers from a form of the half tank lean like savages.

Thats definitely different. Do you have any problems with the fuel transferring from one tank to the other? With a small block you must get ridiculously long run times.
Is there anything protecting your receiver?

Syco_Venom: Yes you are correct with the tank setup. I know the dreaded half tank lean you speak of on savages, and as far as I can tell, this is not the case with the dual tanks. All signs point to no half tank lean thus far, but I haven't ran both tanks empty just yet. I will for sure get back to you on this one as more testing is done.

KeithjV: Fuel transfer is flawless. Throughout the whole time I ran it (25+min), fuel delivery was consistent through the transfer line connecting both tanks and there were no signs of air bubbles or leanouts. As for my receiver, I am going to place it in a balloon for winter use, but this car is usually setup for on-road use with road tires and a two speed. It rarely sees and dirt, water, mud, etc. so I am not too worried about damaging the receiver. I definitely see what you are saying however; this mod may not be feasible for all you guys bashing these trucks but for me, its suited.

25+ minutes... nice!
I was more concerned with anything hitting the receiver from the front.

Yeah head-on impacts may not end pretty, but:
1. I don't jump this truck so those nose-dive landings are out of the picture
2. The only way i could damage it would be in a collision with a car on the road or whatever, but with it travelling at 50+ mph (got it clocked at 59mph with a picco .28 in it), more than just the receiver will be damaged
3. I am running an ol' cheapo stock mgt radio system in the car so if it does get damaged, $10 on ebay can quickly buy me a new one.

Overall, I am not too worried about damaging the receivers but I am stoked to drive a more balanced and better handling truck with insane run times . Too bad there's a foot of snow just outside my door...

Those paddles should hook up well in the snow, no?

The way I drive my trucks I'd total that thing in a split second
Kinda why I don't drive on-road cars, well that and my streets so riddled with potholes (got one almost a foot deep) I've damaged my real cars suspension on it...
Hell I broke my MT1.9ish's (when it was still stock MT1) front arms off the truck from a pothole. There is also another one that is so weirdly sunk in its usable as a ramp...
Kinda why I put masher 2ks on my truck they absorb some of the impact nothings broke since. Also why I bought a Savage X it feels right at home on my street

Body question for you all. Is there a body available that will make the MT2 look similar to the Slash(body goes all the way out to the wheels). Only reason I'm asking instead of just going out and trying them on is that the LHS's around here don't have much of a selection in bodies, so I end up having to order them. Thanks.

Read Post #: 19947 and it will tell you how to make it fit.

I was wondering if there was one available with that style of look for the STOCK MT2. The post you reffered to is good, but unfortunately is achieved by modifying the truck. The main reason I want to keep the truck stock if so that I can mount the original body back on easily for when I'm running in muddy areas in order to have some sort of protection between the servos and the mud. Unfortunately, that protection isn't there on the short course truck body. Thanks for the idea though.

The problem with the SC bodies is they are much larger then the stadium truck bodies even though they are still 1/10th. I dont know what the measurements are on the 1/16 and 1/18th SC bodies but might be worth looking into if you can find one.

My goal is to be able to switch back and forth also. The way that I plan on doing this is making the chassis longer, but have both the original and new holes drilled for the rear suspension so I can just take out four screws, switch the rear driveshaft, reattach the rear suspension, and 'viola, done. I tried all the bodies available from the different manufacturers, and the SC8 was the closest to the stock wheelbase you'll find. As you can see in my pics, if you put on the Blitz wheels you can trim the fenders so there's no rub. But, it doesn't look right because the wheelbase is too short (it reminds me of those old VW vans that they'd chop and stick on a Beetle chassis).
Anywho, good luck with whatever you decide to do.

^ should've been SC10 not SC8

Have you guys seen the new spektrum DX2s and savage X 5.9 kit?

I know this has been addresed before but to be totally sure before I make my purchase is the THS the BEST pipe i can get for the OS 18cv-r???
How does it compare to other great ones such as the blue revo pipe and the team associated rc10gt pipe??
What i currently have is the team associated pipe with the stinger drilled to 6mm and it HAULS A**!!! but its a little old and banged up
and nows the perfect time to upgrade...

thanks for your help!

Is there a difference between an O.S. CV-RX and a O.S. CV-R? I ordered a cv-rx, and got it the other day from tower. The head says cv-r, but my receipt says cv-rx just like the website. is it the exact same engine or is something wrong here. thanks

Im pretty sure thats the only model number. They may have just left the X off the head. OS's website only lists CV-RX

ok cool, thats what i was thinking, but i just wanted another opinion. I cannot wait to install it onto the the mt2. I was looking at the backplate of the motor because i was going to seal it there, but it appears that it is a "onepiece" with the crankcase??? is this correct. I am still planning on sealing the carb body with permatex red rtv sealant.
Any pointers or suggestions/experiences from those who run this motor? I have the 52t spur and 13t or 15t vented cb, which combo should work best with the stock geolander tires.
thanks for any input you have

Im running the TZ with a 15/52. Im not sure on the power of the CVR but you might be able to do 14/52.
What are you talking about with the backplate?

Well I haven't taken the pullstart off yet. But it looks like the backplate is designed differently. I am accustomed to taking off the

starter and the the backplate to seal it...this one looks like the plate is internal and the pullstart is what is sealing the back of the motor