Official HPI MT2 Thread
rayAracing.com . You pay through they page or on ebay. I send all mine there and his turnaround is quick and I never had a problem. He even gives measurements of the pre and post pinch for your information.
My brushless motor and ESC came in for my e-firestorm today and all I need are a few connectors and the lips and charger to come in. The chassis is prepped and ready to go - the differential came perfectly shimmed. This truck is great to work on. The transmission came out with four bolts in seconds and didn't require anything else to be removed. It is much easier to work on than the nitro firestorm.
My brushless motor and ESC came in for my e-firestorm today and all I need are a few connectors and the lips and charger to come in. The chassis is prepped and ready to go - the differential came perfectly shimmed. This truck is great to work on. The transmission came out with four bolts in seconds and didn't require anything else to be removed. It is much easier to work on than the nitro firestorm.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
ORIGINAL: KeithjV
Nice, where are the pictures? How much was it?
Nice, where are the pictures? How much was it?
I'd like to introduce myself as the newest noob I guess here to the forum. I raced a hybrid rc10/jrx2 with MIP tranny back in the mid 80's and have decided to jump back into the hobby, so I have a decent foundation in it but not that knowledgeable when it comes to the nitro motors. I just purchased used G3.0 MT2 off ebay and it's due to arrive next Tuesday. I actually started to read this thread from the first post in 2004 and made it through about 10 pages or so. It wasn't until maybe an hour later that I realized that there were close to 800! [X(] So I know that these questions have been answered before somewhere here, but please indulge me and do it one more time.......please?
From what I've read so far, it seems that the diff gears have been problematic with the MT2. I think I've also read that HPI changed the material or manufacturing process used to fix the problem? The guy that I bought this from said that he purchased it in Dec '09, so it's just shy of a year old (in hand). So when did HPI start, or have they started with a hardened gear set that has fixed the problem and made it into production kits?
I feel like I paid a fair price for the setup, $200 for the truck with the 1.8, upgraded springs (not that big of a deal), sway bar set, radio, starter, charger, batteries, fuel bottle and free shipping (or you could say that I paid for it in the overall price) from NJ to Alaska. Having it shipped here in itself is huge to me since some vendors and sellers think that we are not part of the United States. So...fair price? He says that he only ran 4 tanks of fuel through it due to time constraints so it should be in as good condition as he's said.
So, future plans: Eventually, every part that I can get that is aluminum or titanium will go on the truck. I know that some may say it's a waste of money or not neccesary, but I like first the way that it looks, and second that it does improve rigidity, provides more strength, and lightens the truck versus plastic components. Again, some may say that it was a waste, but I did the same with my little 1/16 Chaos which hasn't even seen the dirt because of a faulty engine. Shocks on the MT2 will be upgraded to aluminum body and possibly longer stroke in the front. I'll probably tweak the suspension and steering before I mess with trying to change out the engine, if that's even necessary. I haven't checked to see if there is a race track here in Anchorage so racing would be a possiblity. I'm not much into putting a bunch of money into my car(s) and trashing them (nothing wrong with the folks that do), so in some ways some might say that it could be a driven shelf queen.
I'd post pics when it arrives but I think everyone already knows that they look like.
Looking forward to gaining knowledge from this forum and getting to know folks.
Sorry to be so long winded on my first post. [sm=red_smile.gif]
Bryan
p.s. there was also and extra NEW body and glow starter included

From what I've read so far, it seems that the diff gears have been problematic with the MT2. I think I've also read that HPI changed the material or manufacturing process used to fix the problem? The guy that I bought this from said that he purchased it in Dec '09, so it's just shy of a year old (in hand). So when did HPI start, or have they started with a hardened gear set that has fixed the problem and made it into production kits?
I feel like I paid a fair price for the setup, $200 for the truck with the 1.8, upgraded springs (not that big of a deal), sway bar set, radio, starter, charger, batteries, fuel bottle and free shipping (or you could say that I paid for it in the overall price) from NJ to Alaska. Having it shipped here in itself is huge to me since some vendors and sellers think that we are not part of the United States. So...fair price? He says that he only ran 4 tanks of fuel through it due to time constraints so it should be in as good condition as he's said.
So, future plans: Eventually, every part that I can get that is aluminum or titanium will go on the truck. I know that some may say it's a waste of money or not neccesary, but I like first the way that it looks, and second that it does improve rigidity, provides more strength, and lightens the truck versus plastic components. Again, some may say that it was a waste, but I did the same with my little 1/16 Chaos which hasn't even seen the dirt because of a faulty engine. Shocks on the MT2 will be upgraded to aluminum body and possibly longer stroke in the front. I'll probably tweak the suspension and steering before I mess with trying to change out the engine, if that's even necessary. I haven't checked to see if there is a race track here in Anchorage so racing would be a possiblity. I'm not much into putting a bunch of money into my car(s) and trashing them (nothing wrong with the folks that do), so in some ways some might say that it could be a driven shelf queen.
I'd post pics when it arrives but I think everyone already knows that they look like.
Looking forward to gaining knowledge from this forum and getting to know folks.Sorry to be so long winded on my first post. [sm=red_smile.gif]
Bryan
p.s. there was also and extra NEW body and glow starter included
Welcome to owning a MT2
IMO $200 was kinda on the high side, but it depends on the trucks shape, and he did give you alot of the starting gear with it (I spent around $70 on that stuff) along with shipping (shipping would have been around $12 UPS ground) and a new body (generally $25ish +tax) so it kinda evens out to around a $100ish for the truck which isn't too bad. Personally in general when shopping for a used truck (alot of other people say the same thing) pretend the engines blown and bid from there on ebay. Few months back I got a Savage X for $200 and the guy said he ran 5 tanks of fuel in it. The engine was completely shot, on the other hand I believe he only ran the 5 tanks(hell he even shipped it with the last tank of fuel still in it...) due to the truck only having 5 tiny scratches on it (now it looks like it went through a war), but I bid on it as if the engine was totaled and had cash to spare for a new one.
If its a G3 it should have the hardened diffs, to my knowledge only the original MT2(from around 2004) and MT1 didn't have them but even those diffs are pretty damn good and can take some abuse. We have people here running K4.6's and K5.9's (1/8th scale engines off of savages) on their MT1\MT2's with older diffs and they have no issues so you should be good.
To my knowledge all of the aluminum parts are made by GPM, I haven't seen any other manufacturers.
Things recommended in aluminum from my experiences are front knuckles, rear wheel hubs, steering assembly, and the shock towers. I never had a issue with the stock ones but needed a new one due to a upgrade and the aluminum one I found for the same price as the nylon so I figured bling bling time
.
From personal experience I do not recommend the arms at all. I was having trouble keeping my truck going straight and couldn't figure out the issue. Broke a part and had to take the rear of the truck apart and when I put the arms down they were slightly bent. They also broke the rear lower arm bulk mounting holes and royally warped the pins to the point I couldn't straighten them out. I went back to nylon ones and had no issues like that since. The nylon they use now is probably WAY stronger than the stuff that you had in the mid 80's so I would try it out 1st.
Also do not get the adjustable tie rods I use them, and they strip out fairly often. HPI (according to the manual) went back to solid nylon tie rods on the G3 for a reason (still need to get me a set).
C-hubs I still have to get a set but they seem like a worthy upgrade. The rest of the parts like the center gear box, diff cases, and radio tray bling to your hearts content
IMO $200 was kinda on the high side, but it depends on the trucks shape, and he did give you alot of the starting gear with it (I spent around $70 on that stuff) along with shipping (shipping would have been around $12 UPS ground) and a new body (generally $25ish +tax) so it kinda evens out to around a $100ish for the truck which isn't too bad. Personally in general when shopping for a used truck (alot of other people say the same thing) pretend the engines blown and bid from there on ebay. Few months back I got a Savage X for $200 and the guy said he ran 5 tanks of fuel in it. The engine was completely shot, on the other hand I believe he only ran the 5 tanks(hell he even shipped it with the last tank of fuel still in it...) due to the truck only having 5 tiny scratches on it (now it looks like it went through a war), but I bid on it as if the engine was totaled and had cash to spare for a new one.
If its a G3 it should have the hardened diffs, to my knowledge only the original MT2(from around 2004) and MT1 didn't have them but even those diffs are pretty damn good and can take some abuse. We have people here running K4.6's and K5.9's (1/8th scale engines off of savages) on their MT1\MT2's with older diffs and they have no issues so you should be good.
To my knowledge all of the aluminum parts are made by GPM, I haven't seen any other manufacturers.
Things recommended in aluminum from my experiences are front knuckles, rear wheel hubs, steering assembly, and the shock towers. I never had a issue with the stock ones but needed a new one due to a upgrade and the aluminum one I found for the same price as the nylon so I figured bling bling time
.From personal experience I do not recommend the arms at all. I was having trouble keeping my truck going straight and couldn't figure out the issue. Broke a part and had to take the rear of the truck apart and when I put the arms down they were slightly bent. They also broke the rear lower arm bulk mounting holes and royally warped the pins to the point I couldn't straighten them out. I went back to nylon ones and had no issues like that since. The nylon they use now is probably WAY stronger than the stuff that you had in the mid 80's so I would try it out 1st.
Also do not get the adjustable tie rods I use them, and they strip out fairly often. HPI (according to the manual) went back to solid nylon tie rods on the G3 for a reason (still need to get me a set).
C-hubs I still have to get a set but they seem like a worthy upgrade. The rest of the parts like the center gear box, diff cases, and radio tray bling to your hearts content
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
Im not telling you to not use aluminum but I just want to clear something up with you aluminum is not lighter then plastic and titanium is heavier then aluminum. So if you want aluminum on your truck to lighten it up its not going to. I love the look of aluminum parts and had a completly aluminum mt2 everything that I could get aluminum I did and I loved it. The only downfall was when you hit something hard the aluminum bends and stays bent.
ORIGINAL: eminentguitar
Im not telling you to not use aluminum but I just want to clear something up with you aluminum is not lighter then plastic and titanium is heavier then aluminum. So if you want aluminum on your truck to lighten it up its not going to. I love the look of aluminum parts and had a completly aluminum mt2 everything that I could get aluminum I did and I loved it. The only downfall was when you hit something hard the aluminum bends and stays bent.
Im not telling you to not use aluminum but I just want to clear something up with you aluminum is not lighter then plastic and titanium is heavier then aluminum. So if you want aluminum on your truck to lighten it up its not going to. I love the look of aluminum parts and had a completly aluminum mt2 everything that I could get aluminum I did and I loved it. The only downfall was when you hit something hard the aluminum bends and stays bent.
Thanks for the info SyCo, lot's of good stuff. I really appreciate the advice on the aluminum because I like to spend my money on things once (I know, wrong hobby to get into for that
). But as far as upgrades, it makes sense to spend it where it's going to be the most cost and performance effective. Oh, and shipping from NJ to AK via UPS ground for $12.00? Not happening, I checked UPS's website and ground freight isn't even offered to here. Cheapest rate for a 25lb box (his estimate) was $113.74, and that was for 2nd day air. So I guess I look at the overall cost of not only the item I bid on but what it's going to cost me to get it here. 
On another subject, the guy that I bought this from says that it's a two speed. After reading the specs at HPI's site, it says it a single speed. He hasn't modded the truck with the exception of new shock springs and sway bars so I don't know what he's talking about. Any ideas? The truck is supposed to be here Tuesday so I'll find out for sure then.
With the snow starting to come here now I guess I won't be running this 'til spring. So in the mean time, I'll be asking questions I'm sure.
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From: .....,
NY
Nice post syco, you covered pretty much everything.
If you shim your diffs properly they will last a long time.
As for the 2 speed, it will be easy to tell. If there are two gears in the tranny and two gears on the clutch bell its a too speed.
If you shim your diffs properly they will last a long time.
As for the 2 speed, it will be easy to tell. If there are two gears in the tranny and two gears on the clutch bell its a too speed.
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From: .....,
NY
There are no dumb questions. Unfortunately I cant say the same for some of the answers....
ORIGINAL: scott36
hope this in not to dumb of a question. BUT what size are the tires that come on the Nitro MT-2
hope this in not to dumb of a question. BUT what size are the tires that come on the Nitro MT-2
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From: Schenectady,
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I love the way insert in the front bumper is shaped. Just added 4 leds, setup to run from a 6 volt receiver pack(good use for one that the connector went bad on). I'll post a pic as soon as I get my camera back(forgot it at a friends place). Looks good at night like that, and I'll actually be able to run after it gets dark out, which it does around 530 now.
Can't wait till I have the new piston, sleeve, and conrod for it. Should be awesome after breakin, which should be rather interesting with the weather turning colder now.
Also, if I can get it, how well does the 2 speed work, or is it a bad idea for running in dirt and grass, with no jumping?
Keith, whereabouts in NY are you? Wouldn't mind meeting up with someone else to do some bashing.
Can't wait till I have the new piston, sleeve, and conrod for it. Should be awesome after breakin, which should be rather interesting with the weather turning colder now.
Also, if I can get it, how well does the 2 speed work, or is it a bad idea for running in dirt and grass, with no jumping?
Keith, whereabouts in NY are you? Wouldn't mind meeting up with someone else to do some bashing.
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From: .....,
NY
ORIGINAL: Straick
I love the way insert in the front bumper is shaped. Just added 4 leds, setup to run from a 6 volt receiver pack(good use for one that the connector went bad on). I'll post a pic as soon as I get my camera back(forgot it at a friends place). Looks good at night like that, and I'll actually be able to run after it gets dark out, which it does around 530 now.
Can't wait till I have the new piston, sleeve, and conrod for it. Should be awesome after breakin, which should be rather interesting with the weather turning colder now.
Also, if I can get it, how well does the 2 speed work, or is it a bad idea for running in dirt and grass, with no jumping?
Keith, whereabouts in NY are you? Wouldn't mind meeting up with someone else to do some bashing.
I love the way insert in the front bumper is shaped. Just added 4 leds, setup to run from a 6 volt receiver pack(good use for one that the connector went bad on). I'll post a pic as soon as I get my camera back(forgot it at a friends place). Looks good at night like that, and I'll actually be able to run after it gets dark out, which it does around 530 now.
Can't wait till I have the new piston, sleeve, and conrod for it. Should be awesome after breakin, which should be rather interesting with the weather turning colder now.
Also, if I can get it, how well does the 2 speed work, or is it a bad idea for running in dirt and grass, with no jumping?
Keith, whereabouts in NY are you? Wouldn't mind meeting up with someone else to do some bashing.
The 2 speed isnt bad on road but unless you have a strong engine like an OS its not that good off road.
Im down on Long Island. A bit of a ways from you.
K, well the truck arrived today and I'm pleased so far. Very minor scratches on the front and rear of the chassis, one of the bodies is brand new (looks really nice)
HPI swaybar installed on the front with the rear still in the bag.
So sorry I'm such a [sm=bananahead.gif]but I looked at the tranny and only see one gear. Do I need to open it up to see the two gears?
I started looking at all of the GPM stuff and will be getting ready to make my first order soon. I'll post pics of the before/after if anyone is interested.
HPI swaybar installed on the front with the rear still in the bag.
So sorry I'm such a [sm=bananahead.gif]but I looked at the tranny and only see one gear. Do I need to open it up to see the two gears?
I started looking at all of the GPM stuff and will be getting ready to make my first order soon. I'll post pics of the before/after if anyone is interested.
The two speed should be obvious - two gears off the engine matching up with two gears in the centre of the driveline. You have a one-speed.



its a savage x 4.6 with half a galon through it, runs like a champ

