wongy008

keith

cheers for that. I actually thought you were gonna give me some advice on a complete shopping list for me to switch to a Os TZ )

need to be able to order everything required in one go as i would hate to have to wait and order and bits i dont have

guy as hpi already told me ill have to shopping around as they are no longer held as stock any longer, and they never got back to me with a direct replacement

or i can go nova still

KeithjV

I would check with nova to make sure they have a head for that engine.

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

I was putting on the aluminum Savage clutch shoes and I assume that I have to use the springs that came with the MT2, right? Because the springs that come with the Savage make the shoes fall off, while the stock springs with the Savage shoes stay on, yet are still easy to pull up a little.

Uncle Vinnie

[quoteAh, alright, I didn't realize that the second gear was the same as the single speed gear.
[/quote]

You can use any spur gear you want, I think the lowest is 41 teeth,

KeithjV

What do you mean they are falling off? The spring isnt lining up with the pilot shaft?

RustyTumbles

Can anyone tell me what wheels will fit the standard MT2 Hex's? Looking for a better dirt tire and some different rims.

SyCo_VeNoM

HPI Wheely king rears, and most others with a 12mm hex.

KeithjV

A pin type tire should give you better traction on dirt. The stock tires are too hard and just spin loose.

93dabeast

My Feedback: (1)

i have pin tires and mashers for dirt and it goes as straight as an arrow on dirt. on pavement it just spins like no traction and just does donuts

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

Savage shoes/springs=springs don't go on the pilot shaft an the shoes fall off. Savage shoes/MT2 springs=shoes stay on, but when lifted, have a little slop to them.

wongy008

keith

app its the correct heat sink/head.

just waiting for it to arrive from your side of the water

SyCo_VeNoM

well its been awhile since I posted any of my monstrosities I made out of butchering RS4 MT's and MT2's
So heres my newest wacky combo
Sorry its not nitro (but can easily be reverted seeing no modifications were made to the chassis AT ALL )
BTW that is not its final electronic setup I just grabbed any cheap piece of junk laying around to test out the drive chain
Neat thing is I can now use savage bodies on it to make a scale looking on-road car

KeithjV

That thing is scary looking..

SyCo_VeNoM

Turns out the ESC was set too rich as all the magic smoke came out after a minute or 2 of running it during its test.





Seriously though the ESC was crap since I got it(came with a dirt cheap RTR that was a clone of a Tamiya ). So no loss. At least I know the drive chain works

I was shocked to see the Traxxas stampede's gearbox had almost exactly the same dimensions as the MT2 center gear setup

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

...any suggestions? Will the aluminum Savage shoes with MT2 springs be alright together, or what springs should I use?

nitro-rob

Syco - that thing is scary looking. I bought a few of the same batteries off ebay a few months ago. They aren't rated like they say - they buy old stock of low capacity batteries and put a new wrapping on them and say they are 3800 to 5000 mAh. Did you check the coulomb count when you charged them?

I have since bought a thunderpower lipo to replace them. Just when I trust chinese crap I get burned again.

SyCo_VeNoM

Had one before it would charge to between 5100-5200 mah. It was way more reliable than the Venom NiMh batteries I've owned and paid 2X more for(where you were lucky to get 70% of the rate amperage)
it took it like 10-15 cycles though to hit that due to false peaking.

That particular battery I bought it for my 1/16 RC tank. The tanks electronics don't have a voltage regulator anywhere near the quality of car/truck ESC's seeing they were only made to run on 7.2v-7.6ish volts, so the initial 8.4v's would fry it(hell my lipo when it was half dead at 7.6V was causing some overheating in the tank).
So I just slapped it on as a test to make sure the car/truck/rally/thing would move, seeing the only junk ESC I had laying around at the time had a tamiya plug on it, and so did the battery(which just came).

Side note I own 5 lipos(Turnigy from china) (and ordered 2 more for my 1/16th revo)

The chinese stuff is ok as long as you know what to expect. Like a 14V 15a power supply I got from china I had to pop open and rewire the fan to always on cause the temperature gauge never would kick in and it would over heat. After I did the quick rewire it works flawlessly.


But enough of that Gotta take that thing to my LHS Tuesday(or Wednesday unless I get lucky tuesday) for turnbuckles so I can get the steering centered, and maybe pick it up a body. I'm tempted to get the savage charger and make the general lee

nitro-rob

I bought two "5000 mAh" NiMH and they were 1500 mAh. Three lipos from hobbyking led to three fires burning three ESCs and two motors from rippling. I know a lot of people have had good luck with them but I won't touch any non-american non-name brand batteries anymore and they are never allowed in anything I own. I can't afford to buy cheap, paying triple or more for thunderpower turned out to be cheaper in the long run for me.

My story isn't the norm and is the exception, but these exceptions occur more often with the cheap crap because of weak or non-existant quality control.

SyCo_VeNoM

were they Castle ESC's by any chance?
I swear those are the ONLY ESC's I've heard of with issues due to rippling. Novaks I hear fail left and right due to cheap capacitors.
BTW Also heard of castle esc's bursting into flames from max-amps batteries which cost more than most RTR RC's do...
I've not heard the same from HW ESC's, and every one I own works like a champ. Only chinese product in recent ages I've owned that I was disapointed in was the HW 1200 kv motor that sucker cogged like mad.

Side note Max-amps(along with every other "american" battery brand) cells are from china
Also alot of those no-name things are name brand names overseas, and the "name brand" stuff is no-name stuff over there

Well lets get back to Nitro RS4 MT2 talk


Well anyways slapped a G3.0 in my MT2 the other day that I picked up used awhile back. Can't wait till I can get out to try it

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

...[&o] post 20951...I want to bolt this thing in and get it running...

KeithjV

As long as the springs have tension on them making contact with the pilot shaft and the shoe you should be fine. If there is too much play under the shoe you can always use a small washer to shim it a little. Depending on what springs you have you might want to go a little heavier to make up for the added rpm of the engine

flatout->

Hi, has anyone dropped a 3.3 trx engine in an mt2 yet?

wongy008

peps

ive just fitted my new nova race head and the car fired up first pull... which was nice

only downside wa i forgot to mount the engine tightly and now shredded half the spur gear (

im looking at a replacement and they appear cheap, and readily available

im after a bit more speed so do i need to decrease the number of teeth for more speed ??

also anyone seen or used the metal steel spur on ebay. apparently gpm products. im guessing these will last longer but how will they affect the rotating mass as response ??

some adivde would be nice.

Andeyking

Will either of these airfilters work with my stock mt2? Is the part that connects to the carb to big or to small? or the correct size

KeithjV

Wongy, less teeth on the spur will give you more top speed with less bottom end torque. Id stick with the plastic spurs as they are cheaper and provide a weak point in the system should something break. Its cheaper to replace a $3 spur then dog bones or clutch bells.

Andy the first one you have listed there should work fine.