I used a soldering gun to melt the nut into the plastic, then it fits. As I said though it's a cheap solution that makes them a lot tougher if you don't want to fork out for aluminum ones just yet, even if it is a bit of work. [sm=cool.gif]

Hey Anty..

After I tightened my slipper clutch as described in the manual (tighten all the way, then loosen 1/2 turn). I also read somewhere that it's supposed to give more lowend, and it's the recommened setting by HPI which was not set by factory.

I bought a load of stuff, you have to support local hobby shops, except hobbytown of course. I found a full line of powerline hopups there, probably sitting there for 6 years. I bought all hubs. Not only do the hubs give the car better ridgitity, but also more precision. With the plastic front hubs you can't screw down the front hub screws in all the way or they will strip. On mine, they are tighted down all the way and are as smooth as bearings. As a bonus, they make the inside wheel turn sharper.

I also converted my rotostart to deans, cause it's on all my packs.

I hope they let me in the UMT class, if they don't I don't even need to race it for people to be intimidated.


I am convinced the slipper does absolutely nothing. If it's loose it will only hinder acceleration. If you hit the ground nose first or rear first the mass of the opposite wheels (front or back) will stress the drivetrain. It doesn't even work while breaking, as that puts as much or more stress than the engine can and the brakes even bypass it completely. The only way a slipper could even work is if you rip it full throttle off a jump and keep it pegged until it lands simultaniously on all fours. A slipper can be more useless if avoid blatent throttle jamming. I was just twisting the wheels and playing with the linkage and it just hit me "wow, the slipper really doesn't do anything". However, if there was 2 slipper for the front and rear, that could help, it could even be adjusted for throttle bias. But that is out of the question, it's to complicated for a small car.

hey guys what do you think of painting your stock chrome wheels black? Just a thought since the chromes don't really look nice anymore! LOL.

You might have to sand them a little to help the paint stick.

Other than that I don't see why you couldn't, other than the paint might soften the plastic.

Anty

Boil the rims, then paint them with spray paint for nylon.

Boiling eh?

Never heard of that. What's it do?

Anty

Hey does anyone know what signs to look for as far as when you should rebuild the shocks?

If they leak oil, or if they seem to perform badly. HPI recommends new shock o-rings for each rebuild. Don't know if thats necessary though.

I've never used new o-rings and they still keep the oil in, but I just give them a good clean out each time to get all the dirty oil out.

Thanks, I was just wondering. I have one rear shock that probably needs more oil in it.


ANty

What a disaster

The 18ss engine is worth nothing for racing. Mine stalled in the first 3 minutes in the first race. I wasted 3/4 gallon of fuel in 3 hours trying to get it running good.

The temps would be fine. When it got up to temp (250-260), after a good full throttle run while idling the engine would rev up for 3 seconds or longer, settle to a good idle and then stall out. I screwed with every needle but never could get it running. I cut the clutch...everything.

I don't know what to do, sell it, get a new engine or convert it to electric.

I used 25wt rear with the shocks in the outermost hole in the arm (of the 3) and used 30wt in the stock front arm location and for how it ran, I could keep up with the 3 diff truggies. I put about 1cm of fuel tubing as a down travel limiter in the rear shocks. Tubing in the shocks also help the shock ends to not pop off when the car land on it's lid, the impact is softer.

Maybe your running too lean since you have it rev up in idle? Did you try factory settings?

I had many good runs with my 15. The other day however it kept stalling on idle.. I adjusted the 3 screws and it times at seemed to help, only for it to stall again when giving full throtttle, I cleaned and kept adjusting it, but nothing helped. When I came home I discovered the exhaust header had come slightly loose from the engine block. I think this was the problem, and I hope not any dirt got inside.

Usually I never have any problems like this, and it always starts up and drives like a dream.. I try to keep it in mint condition by cleaning it often while running, using afterrun oil when I get home, aswell as cleaning airfilter and car at regular intervals while running. I'm also very very careful with dirt, and clean the entire motor completely before removing airfilter or glowplug with either denatured alcohol and a brush or bicycle cleaning spray and an air compressor. After a thorough cleaning I use car "bumper black" from Motip to make the black platic parts like new.

I'm probably wrong, but I think that if you get a increase in RPM's and then cutoff at idle the LSN is lean.

Did you try pinching the fuel line after blip the throttle to clear it out? It should rev a little, then cut out in about 3-4 seconds. I know a lot of people don't like this, but it was the only way for me to get my LSN back after I monkeyed with it.


Anty

All 2nd hand cars on ebay should be sold by you.

here's a somewhat related question : What does it mean when you go full throttle and the engine sort of stalls at the start... after that it's fine, but from full stop or slow moving to full, it bogs down on me... I also noticed that after a month or so, the settings (lean, rich, idle) have changed, without me touching it. could this be possible for the engine to need a new tuning even without touching the settings or installing hop ups?

Usually means that you LSN is a little rich. Does it rev up a little before stall, or is it immediate?

Will it idle good for 30 secs? (I know I have a problem not blasting the throttle for that long too!)

Usually if a car revs up while sitting at idle it is too lean, if it just shuts off after a while at idle it is too rich.

You should be able to sit at idle for a good 45 secs to a minute with out any probs.



As far as the mixture changing on you, could be the fuel, or at the most you might need new O-Rings for the needles, but I doubt that.
HTH
Anty

Is it when the engine is completely cold? I usually do not go full throttle right away after starting, but carefully rev up gradually a couple of times to get the engine varmed up, before going full throttle - The seasoned racers at the track where I sometimes race does this. Not sure if this is the issue though, it could be what Anty mentions, a combination of other factors or air bubbles. With settings changing, this could also be that the engine does not perform optimum at first, but it will after you have run several tanks. Mine changed over time, so I had to retune, which I do anyways everytime I get to a new area. It just runs faster and better now than in the tanks after break in, but it took at least a gallon until it seemed to perform really well.

Nitro Nut:
I understand what you mean, I had the same problem, I'm still using the Hpi one, but I changed the linkage. I used the one from the x-cellerator and it work perfec. It brakes on a dime. I'll post some pics.

Whirly..

Forgot the obvious concerning the re-tuning. The weather plays a factor with tuning as well. Mostly temp and humidity. Cooler temps allow more fuel to mixed with the air. And humidity has an effect as well.

That is probably what you are seeing.

Anty

Hey Guys,

Haven't posted out here in awhile and just wanted to see if anyone has found some cool new things for their MT2. Haven't been running it this summer, but am gearing up for the winter racing in Columbus, OH. Think I might need a OS TM or something nasty to keep up - have any of you installed one - any comparisons with the 18 CV-R?

Thanks,

Gran

Hey, Gran...

Same here; my MT-2 hasn't been cranked in many moons. The grandson has gotten big into flying our planes, and hasn't had any interest in the truck. I need to drag it out and exercise the engine/servos...

I was up your way a few months back. We went to Toledo; that's a bloody loooong drive from south Louisiana!

That is a long drive!!

I actually did get mine out this summer, but I know the engine is a little tired at 5 gallons. Racing outside is not my cup of tea, I much prefer inside on gromed tracks. The heat and dust kinda get to me, but I love running it. I might try ang get some runtime in the end of the month.

Gran

I ran less than a gallon through my 18ss engine and fear it's dead somehow. It won't idle anymore. The temps get too hot, so I richen it, but when idling it still dies. I checked the comression and it's almost nothing when I turn it over. the idle is set 1/4 open and it still stalls.

I'm looking for a reliable engine, I don't care if it makes the car go 25mph, I just want it to run. Does the .18CVR drop in?

What about the stock engine that came with it?

Mine doesn't produce blistering speed, but it certainly has been reliable.