does your origional mt have a slipper clutch?

no thats why i want to get one
ive stripped 3 spur gears
it sucks
anyway to convert the whole center into mt2 standards/just slipper clutch???

well i dont really know the mt1 very well but you should pm 46u, he has converted his mt1 into mt1 3/4, lol

I need your help.
I've set the High Needle 2 and a quarter turns from the close position.
The problem is that I have a lot of oil of the exhaust, my rear tyre is full of oil. Additionally, the glow plug is not dry, there is some oil on it.
I use Tornado 16% fuel.
Should I lean it more?

Hi you could lean it, but you have too watch these things:
- at full trottle you have to see a nice blue exhaust gas
- watch your temperatures (about 120 C MAXXX)
- the sound, if the sound is very high you have to rich the mixture.. and if its like 4 stroking ( holding in )

- I know about the exhaust gas
- I own a thermometer and I watch it
- I don't know what a high sound is or the 4 stroking. You mean if I have a lot of rpm in full throttle? I will watch some youtube videos to listen their sound.

Thanks

this movie for the 4 stroking :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RayS5GUDqs

when the guy say's :hobrdebromdebromdebrom and at 0.30

and this for the insane high sound...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC7BwBvnRpI



And this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNXJw...elated&search=

has nothing to do with what you asked but it is SOOOOOOOOOOOO cool!!

To convert a MT 1 to about that of an MT 2 is expensive! Would be better off getting a MT2 SS kit!!!!!!!!!! I did mine to SS specifications. Here is a cut an past off HPI web site from a couple years ago when the MT 2 first came out.

While the Nitro MT 2 on the surface looks the same as the older Nitro MT, there are in fact a wide variety of changes and the difference between the two trucks is very significant from a "conversion" point of view, however a conversion can be done if you don't want to buy the Nitro MT 2 truck.

Upgrading your old Nitro MT to the brand new Nitro MT 2 can be done easily by purchasing just a few items. You can upgrade various parts of the truck one by one according to your budget, or you can upgrade everything at once!

Suspension
One of the biggest advantages the Nitro MT 2 has over the original Nitro MT is in the suspension. Longer front arms plus longer front and rear shocks provide a plush, smooth ride that allow the Nitro MT 2 to roll over just about anything. Upgrading the front end is easy � you just need a few parts:

Front Suspension
85074 Suspension Arm Set (2 required)
85076 Front Upright Set
A280 Flange Shaft Set (use A284 3x30mm flange shafts)
Z242 E-Clips 2mm

Each #85074 Suspension Arm Set includes one front and one rear suspension arm, so you can upgrade your rear suspension arms at the same time. While the measurements of the rear arms are the same, they are much tougher and more durable.

To really upgrade the front suspension, you will need the longer front shocks of the Nitro MT 2. You can just move your Nitro MT�s rear shocks to the front, since the front Nitro MT 2 shocks are the same length as the rear Nitro MT shocks. This of course would require you to get a new pair of rear shocks:

Rear Shocks
86168 Flange Shaft 3x33mm
Z224 Washer M3x8x0.5
A716 Sport Shock Set (77-117mm)

The new Nitro MT 2 shocks have an improved design, with a bottom cap that threads on and will not �pop off� when landing huge jumps. You can also get the front Nitro MT 2 shocks with the threaded bottom cap:

Front Shocks
A715 Sport Shock Set (70-103mm)


Front Bumper
While you�re upgrading the front end and it�s all taken apart, you can go ahead and upgrade the front bumper to the new brush guard style bumper. This is one of the most prominent outward features of the Nitro MT 2 and does help protect the front end in crashes and tumbles. Here are the parts necessary to update the front bumper:

Front Bumper
85071 Shock Tower Set
85072 Lower Mount Set
85073 Front Bumper Set
Z571 TP. Binder Head Screw M3x20mm
Z567 TP. Binder Head Screw M3x10mm


Slipper Clutch
The Nitro MT 2 slipper clutch is a new design using Savage monster truck parts and is made to slip less than the older optional slipper clutch. The Nitro MT 2 slipper clutch includes a new spur gear, however you must use the drive cups from your Nitro MT.

New Slipper Clutch
87138 Slipper Clutch Set


Engine
An easy upgrade from the Nitro Star 15FE engine is the Nitro Star T-15 Engine with pullstart. This engine is much stronger than the 15FE and although many Nitro MT owners have put in .15, .18 or even .21 engines in their trucks, we will list the information for the T-15 here:

T-15 Engine
15101 Nitro Star T-15 Engine with Pullstart


Drivetrain
The Nitro MT 2 features thicker dogbones, which in turn requires larger drive cups, diff shafts and axles. All of these components have been strengthened on the new truck to make sure they can handle the power of the new Nitro Star T-15 engine. While it is possible to upgrade the drivetrain of your Nitro MT to the specs of the Nitro MT 2, if you plan to upgrade all the suspension and drivetrain components, it would be cheaper (and much easier) to purchase a complete Nitro MT 2 truck, which would give you all-new parts plus all the updates in one preassembled truck.

However, for the Nitro MT owner who wants to upgrade a little at a time, we will list the parts necessary to update the drivetrain of the Nitro MT 2:

Drive Train
86225 Cup Joint 7x19mm (D Cut)
86226 Gear Shaft 5x38x7mm (2 required)
86227 Diff Shaft 5x26x7mm (2 required)
86228 Axle 5x36x7mm
86229 Axle 5x41x7mm
86230 Dogbone 7x86mm (2 required)
86232 Dogbone 7x83mm
86233 Dogbone 7x57mm
86234 Cup Joint 7x19mm

My friend liu thank you very much for the information.
I have to admit that both videos were useful and I don't have these sounds. But now I know what you mean.

Additionally, the guy in the second video is insane, I have to say that I haven't seen anything like that, meaning holding the OS in his hand ( I've enjoyed it).
The third video I will leave it without commend, great video indeed.

Thanks once again

ok guys i need help im new to the mt2 ive got a firestorm that i dontuse and a savage that i bash now im thinking of upgrading the engine to an os 18 now i now ill need engine mounts but which ones ? and what do i do about clutches ? please any help would be great thanks

just go to towers and type hpi mounts and it willl pop up. i recommend getting the expensive one because they are way stronger. and i sorta dont get what you are asking about the clutch

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXN373&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLR3&P=7

the second one is better... you ken tell by the price lol

it says the slipper clutch will not fit into the mt1
only the mt2
also thanks for posting that

Please read it again.
I have been running a MT2 slipper clutch in my MT 1 racer for over a year unless they came out with a new one I do not know anything about. Now on the MT 1 the RTR did not come with a slipper clutch but my MT 1 Racer kit had one. Like I said I am running a MT2 slipper in my MT1.

mine did not come w/ a slipper
and i got it used so im not sure if it was a rtr or a kit

and i typed the number into the towerhobbies and it said... btw heres the url... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go

maybe you were talking about this one????

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXWC18&P=K

The above article came off HPI web site and says it will work. I HAVE A MT2 SLIPPER CLUTCH SET UP IN MY MT1 SO I KNOW IT WILL WORK. Sorry for yelling but I know it will work as I have been running one for well over a year in mine. Matter of fact more like 2 years. If yours did not come with a slipper it is a RTR. The old MT 1 slipper is junk and does not work well.
This is what I have in mine!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go

I use the same spur gears in my MT as I do my Savage.

46u

I think I need more power so I'm going to replace my os .15cv-r with an os .18tz. What gear ratio, exhaust pipe and slipper setting do you suggest.
I know that you've been running this engine in your mt for awhile and been having some drive train issues. I have the mt2 18ss kit.

Thanks!

This is one of my posts on another thread.

OK, as many know my MT started out as a MT1 Racer, which was a kit that did not come with a radio or engine. I up dated it to a MT 1 ¾ which in involve changing just about everything to MT 2SS other then the chassis, upper deck and the radio tray. The only alloy I have at this time that was not stock is the steering knuckles. I all so put in the 100cc fuel tank that HPI said would not work. Took a little modifying but nothing major.

For years I ran it with an OS 15 CV-RX, which has been discontinued, and the 18 CV-R took its place. I bought an OS 18 TZ and had it for over a year when the one way bearing went out on my 15 CV-RX so instead of buying a $26bearing I put the TZ in. Had no big problems while breaking it in other then keeping the front end on the ground. I was running a 14 CB with a 51 Spur at the time of break in.

First thing I did was gear up to tame the wheelies and right now I am running a 15CB with a 47 spur and still the tires balloon in about 5 feet. I still can wheelie if I hit the throttle just right. Being a racer for the most part I try to keep the wheels on the ground but being I do not race the MT any more I might change the gearing some to a lower gear for easier wheelies.

I was running the purple clamp on hex and after break in I was stripping the hex in the wheel as well as the hex it’s self after any where between 1 and 1 ½ tanks of fuel. I replaced all the hexes and wheels thinking they had some wear do to being old but still stripped them. So I got another set of wheels and the metal hexes that do not clamp on and epoxy (JB Weld) them in to the wheels.

Keep in mind when I change it to a MT 1 ¾ I up graded to all the SS heavy-duty drive train. While I was having the wheel hex problem I all so striped the heavy-duty final gears (ring and pinion). Replaced the gears and made sure I shimmed them properly and about half a tank of fuel stripped them again all ways in the back. Thanks to a MT owner on these forums he told me to try an alloy diff housing to cut down on flex. So I replaced the rear diff housing with an alloy one. Other then the alloy knuckles the rear diff housing is the only other alloy I have added that did not come stock.

Years ago I when through the alloy craze and found out about all the negative of using it. If people like it run it but it ended up costing me much money on more then one vehicle.

I have only had time to run it once since I did all this but got to run about 4 tanks through it with out messing up any of the drive train. Now is it bullet proof not sure but have run it more after these changes then before the changes. Being I race my buggy 3 out of 4 weekends I have not had time to do more testing.

just an opinion but i think 46u will say the tz is way to much power for the mt2. he said the only reason he put the engine on is because he had it laying around.. im not saying to not put it on. by all mean do it.. if yo u do buy it and put it on please make a video and show me. i was always curiouse how fast the mt2 went with the tz on it

thats all i needed to hear

i now have it in my shopping cart

i didnt want to get something that wouldnt fit into my car, it would be pointless
so i was just clarifying

hey question to anyone who races. what type of springs ( as in tension level ) do u buy. firm, medium, or soft

A lot has to do with track conditions and drive preference. Lots of times racers run two different types front and rear.

it all depends on what the track is like and how you like your truck to handle, i run firm in the back and medium in the front i havent raced in the a while but i believe this eliminates understeering and helps me drift around corners without losing too much speed, if you do firm in front and soft in back i think that eliminates oversteer, but i may have that backwards anybody know???

Springs


Stiffer Stiffer springs make the car feel more responsive, more direct.
They also help the car jump a little better and higher.
Stiff springs are suited for high-traction tracks, which aren't too bumpy.
Softer Softer springs are better for (mildly) bumpy tracks.
They can also make the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-grip conditions.

Stiffer Front The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners.
The car will jump better, and maybe a little further.
On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster.
Softer Front The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner.
Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.
Stiffer Rear The car has more steering, in the middle and exit of the turn. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed corners.
But rear traction is reduced.
Softer Rear The car has generally more rear traction, in turns as well as through bumps and while accellerating.

well said

Dr. 46u,
Thanks for the information.