Which Engine?
#27

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Take the piston/sleeve out, take the pin out of the piston, keep that pin, throw away the sleeve and the piston... keep those g clips too. then clean up the engine with a old toothbrush and paper towels.
#28
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From: Richmond,
VA
After you take out the old piston/sleeve, pull the crank. Clean everything with niro spray and make sure the bearings are smooth from the front of the crank... If they are rough you need new ones. Lube all parts up LIGHTLY with after-run oil, even the new piston/sleeve and re-assemble. Follow breakin instructions.
#31

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sometimes u dont need to relube, but it is best if you do. U dont want premature wear on first pulls. Like frost said, add a drop or two, u dont even need to buy that expensive stuff, sometimes walmart or target has this stuff from Liquid Wrench called SUPER OIL or something similar. That stuff is cheap and works wonders.
#32
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From: flushing,
MI
how much is the stuff for the clutch? cause i tryed taking it off, i think i accidently bent something and this little ring with tiny balls came off and the balls went everwere and i cant find them. but i still have a flywheel, clutch shoes and bell.
#38
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From: flushing,
MI
well i bought the evader off ebay and i dont know what the previous owner used. but it seemed to like my monster brew. but i only got like a 1/2 gallon of the monster brew through it before it started not working. maybe it was my monster brew. i dont know. what fuel would you recommend?
#39

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Frost will disagree, but I LOVE Blue Thunder.. he will agree with me on ODONNELL... they are both great for everyday driving. You might like the R2R blend that Odonnell has more than your Monster brew.
#43
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From: South Wales,
NY
Don't buy a new sleeve for the DTX.18 it will wear out just as fast it's cheap. I had the same prob with mine and i bought a WASP .18 it's awsome it has sooooo much power i pull wheelies with a aluminum body on an oval track. It's also a direct bolt on.
#44

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ORIGINAL: amsterdamn
Why not?
ORIGINAL: rccars411
.....I wouldnt spend the money to get it.
.....I wouldnt spend the money to get it.
#45
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From: flushing,
MI
well, instead i got a new engine. heres a picture of it on the truck:

its a Dynamite Mach .15. is this engine about the same or better than the stock .18 in speed and strength?

its a Dynamite Mach .15. is this engine about the same or better than the stock .18 in speed and strength?
#47

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From: LAKELAND,
FL
do you think that the wasp is more powerful because if you look at duratrax.com under nitro evader upgrades they have a stage 2 performance head for it those things kick ass not only does it have more coling area but they have a lower deck for more compression i can almost gaurantee with that head you will be doing welies all day i like traxxas 20 percent top feul i broke in my st-15 with that stuff it runs powerful and gets exeptional coling.
#48
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From: flushing,
MI
ORIGINAL: Nitro Rustler Racer
92 bucks for a trx.15 lean it out. you will be ripping and stripping gears in no time
92 bucks for a trx.15 lean it out. you will be ripping and stripping gears in no time
#50
i was just saying i wasnt directly answering to you, sorry if i got you confused[&:]
ORIGINAL: RG501
is a trx.15 a engine? whats that have to do with my question??
ORIGINAL: Nitro Rustler Racer
92 bucks for a trx.15 lean it out. you will be ripping and stripping gears in no time
92 bucks for a trx.15 lean it out. you will be ripping and stripping gears in no time


