My Great Planes Tiporare with Spring Air retracts. Powered by an OS 61SF ABC-P engine using a Maxs pipe. It has not been flown yet.

Mike, Monokote covered.

ZN-Line Alliance slightly modified by adding cheek cowls
YS 140 Dingo
Futaba WC2

Great flying Aircraft

Hey peter great to see the alliance flying. Did you get any more flights on it? That model looks absolutely immaculate!

Own Design "INSIGHT" (version 3).
OS 160fx w/Greve Pipe, JR radio, 10lbs. 13oz.

www.geocities.com/markhunt_2000/INSIGHT

Mark, That really turned out GREAT! Good luck flying it.
Tom

tph1,

thank you for your kind comments.

mark

Plans build Patriot 3D. YS140FZ, 10.0 lbs Wings are Ultracote, everything else is glass/paint.

Below is my current model, a ZN Alliance.

The plane is actually starting its third year, but last winter I gave it a full refurb. New paint job, new covering and swapped the 140L for a dingo on a hatori 698 pipe.

The plane is fantastically good fun, it sits exactly where you put it and with the dingo up front the performance is awesome.

James

Peter, your Alliance looks pretty cool with the cheeks.

I'm not going to change mine, obviously, but how did you do it? The finish on them appears to be excellent.

James

Hi James,

They are made from a glass mold. The cheeks actually flare into the fuse which gives you a large gluing surface to work with. Simply traced the outline to the fuse, I then roughened up the area with 80 grit then I used zap to glue them on. It was actually quite easy to do. The secret is having a large gluing surface surface to avoid cracks. I used this technique on another model I had which worked extremely well.

The finish is as good as the original fuse. All the guys at the club thought the model came with them.

I am also very happy with this model. I have about 20 flights with it and it is getting better and better. All I have to do is get my engine sorted out. Another cam failure on the weekend. That is 3 cams now in 120 flights (I think the engine is a dud) Never had any problems with either of my 140L's (Almost 700 flights).

Peter

interesting, it's nice to personalise planes I think otherwise they all end up looking pretty similar.

Best of luck with the engine, there's no way you should be getting so many failures. I had the cam go on my L but not until it was about 3 seasons old...

James

Peter, I have read elsewhere that the fix for this is to run a quarter turn richer on the regulator. I am not a Dingo owner, but just thought I would pass it on. Really nice Alliance BTW.
How can you afford to run a Dingo with the the cost of fuel in the UK??? :-)

By flying in Australia????

Hi Rodney,

Yes I fly in Australia.

I believe we are lucky in some way down here. Coolpower actually supply the low viscosity heli oil on it's own in one gallon bottles. Hence I mix my own fuel which works out about a 1/3 of the price if I was to buy the pre-mix.

If I had no choice but to buy pre-mix I wouldnt be flying YS Dingo's. I guess the way my luck has been with engines lately I am going through engine rebuilds faster than fuel.

As for the 1/4 turn richer, Believe me I have tried everything. A Dingo will let you know real quick if your too lean on the pump. While the engine is running all is well but the point of failure always seems to happen when engine is under load. as I mentioned in a previous post I regard myself as a very experienced YS 4 stroke owner. Cam's should not fail just after 15 flights (2 occassions)

Dave Shadel mentioned that there are some engines around with a machining intolerance somewhere on the crank case. I suspect mine is one of them.


Peter

Peter,
I cheated on the "exam". Being an ex-UK Pat living in New Jersey, I actually knew where Australia was.

I am interested, was it the pump side of the cam that failed? (namely the inlet-valve side). The problem could well be that the pump pushrods etc are creating too much drag.

Also I did modify mine in two ways. I recessed the plug 1/16" to stop the injuector from dousing out the glow-plug. This allows a richer run and even a plain clunk and tank with air bubbles could/would not kill the motor. (I have that on video BTW)

The second mod was to make an air-filter that went inside the carb throat to replace the restrictor. This filter had a 1/16" wall and gave very good power with better fuel consumption.

I'm rambling - must sleep... Nite all!

Sorry about that Peter . . . as another ex-UK-Pat, I was actually on my way to Australia, when I came through Mexico. But that was over 20 years ago, so maybe I should get my skates on and get there, at least for a visit . . . .

PL Prod Smaragd:

PPG/Monokote
Futaba RF
Futaba 9150's on Ail
JR 8411 on Rud
JR 3421x2 on Elv
JR 3121 on Thr
YS-140L/ES Pipe
NMP LiI Battery
Central CF/Ti control rods/MK BB horns/clevis's
9.25 lb.

PL kits: Without question, the best kits ever. Materials/construction technique result in guaranteed light-weight.

Dre

Hi Eric,

The gears on the cam actually strip off. The lobe on the cam is intact. But you do have a point, if the pump happens to have more friction than it should it would cause excess stress on the gear train. I was very interested to hear of your modifications. Do you have more details on the results.

On another note we meet in Ireland at the 2001 world champs. You and your lovely wife were interviewing part of the Australian team in which I was a caller and mechanic. I am not sure if you remember us but it was certainly a pleasure to meet you.

Regards,

Peter

hey peter,

the plane seemed to fly realy well at coolum. i'm going to put a header tank in my plane. not that it needs it but just to be sure that its not gonna quit. i can't get over how good the alliance looks. i wish all of my planes turned out that good.
heres a pic of my matrix while i'm on:

Dre,

The smaragd looks great, nice, low weight.

When are u coming back to Houston?

Sure we remeber you all. I have the video of some very "friendly" rivalry between you and the Kiwi's :-) If I ever figure out how to make DVD's from the digital tape, you are all in trouble... :-) (VBG)

One result is that the idle was extremely reliable and could be taken down to 1100 rpm and held there - if you dared! It would recover immediately. Almost like my FI computer module motors

The rpm's were down about 100 with the combination insert/filter. This is not an issue with the DZ because as you know lugging power in the mid range is its main feature.

I eventually sold mine because I only had/could-get one at the time. You always need at least three. One in the plane, one in the car and one in pieces :-)

Chris,

Thanks for the compliments on the model. The model is very honest and is certainly a winner in the right hands. It is the best model I have ever owned I just need some more time with it. I guess at Coolum I had only had only a few proper flights with it along with all my engine hassles.

I just need more airtime with this model. It is certainly a different animal to what I had been flying.

Keep up the good flying.


Peter

Here ya go. Scratch built, all wood, even the wings are built up. It's a WAY modified Typhoon 2000. Actually the cowl and canopy are about the only things that are the same, the rest is changed in some way.

10 lbs 1 ounce RTF.

3M 170, JR digitals all the way around. It should be fun!

-Mike

Here is my new Zimpro Viper FAI 2m FG.
Saito 150, Cline regulator, JR control, carbon fiber push rods,wing tube,firewall,gear and pants

DEG
[img]C:\Documents and Settings\DoWayne Gould\My Documents\My Pictures[/img]