I'm in now and there's no going back. 4 hours worth of glueing made the wing look like this. Ran out of Zap so I could sheet only one side today.
Now I know why I need the local hobby store. Ain't no way I'm waiting for glue delivery now, I need a fix quick

The kit is really something else. Never seen such a part fit and prefabrication. Even the main sheeting of the wing is precut. Everything just slots in! Now I know the meaning of the word FIT. This is state of the art. I've never seen anything like it in 15 odd years of kit building.

Hey Jon,

Looks great. I have heard the MK kits are wonderful to build. I saw your modeling pins and want to offer a suggestion. Check out these pins from Hobby Lobby. They are thinner and sharper. I get a better job using them than the ones in your photo. Not tying to nitpick, just trying to pass on a tool that I have enjoyed using. http://www.hobby-lobby.com/pins.htm

By the way, I really like the color sheme on your Calypso.

Lem

Jon
I had fun and games building my wing ended up with an almighty twist in it due to some mistake I had made, ended up getting a set of foam cores made.
How did you construct your wings, did you use a jigging strip or some other method.

Mike

I've just framed up an Aurora - a small MK pattern model. The kit was very cheaply prices (about $150 AUD including shipping from Singapore). The design is ver similar to the Skystar, only smaller. I've just loved the precision of the cutting, the rebates and the way everything just fits together.

I do agree that the wing an fuz do need jigging to get a straight result. I took a punt and just packed up the trailing edge equall along its whole lenth while building and sheeting top side. Seems to have worked out okay, but next time, I'll set it up on my adjusto-jig. (Never built a bad wing yet with that device). I'm looking at investing in a magnetic board (own build) for fuzes though, as I got a little banana twist, doesn't affect alignment of wings - tail group, just looks bad.

I'm looking forward to getting this pint size pattern model into the air.

Steve

Thanks, I did find those pins on the picture quite useless in fact! They're so thick it crushed soft wood. Got them from Tower, think it was hobbico pins. I'm off to the hobby store later on, I'll see what he has on offer [8D]

I am building the mk synergy 63 it s look really nice everithing fit , on my kit i will use only
mk hardware you can see my construction on the thead mk 63 synergy

Mike, I don't know how you were able to do that, my wing just came together like a jigsaw puzzle. I built the first half over the plan and the other with the plan hanging on the wall. I built them the same way as boths halves are identical. I did align everything by eyesight at crucial points such as before glueing the top spar, TE/LE, shear webs and sheeting. Such a tapered symmetrical wing should have a jig to be guaranteed straight but I've always relied on eyesight to get it even, and this looks to be the straightest wing I've built so far.

Jon
My best guess is that the twist went on later.
I had built the two wings and had a break of a few weeks before i joined them.
It was a hot part of the summer and i think it was the heat in my shed/workshop that did the damage. Well that is my excuse and I am sticking to it.

Mike

Welcome to the world of truely high quality kits. It's too bad it took you, and so many others, this many years to realize how good MK is. If more people knew that they really do get what they pay for with these kits, the demand would be high enough for someone to import them without the rest of us having to order from over seas. I built an Aurora .25 17 years ago and the parts fit then was ever bit as good as you see in your kit. MK, and many other Japanese kit makers, are living proof that a kit does not have to be laser cut to be high quality. I both the Silent .90 and .50 kits in my closet awaiting their turn on the building board. On both kits, even the rudder is preshaped and the leading edge beveled. All it needs is finish sanding and it's ready to cover.

BTW, get more glue, you can't stop now

John

Jon,

Nice job! I am as far along on a Skystar of my own. Have you decided on an engine yet? I am to the point I need an engine to complete the front end & curious what you plan on using. The YS 1.10 is the most logical choice but ( like Mike ) I prefer 2 cycles. Might still go with an OS 91FX, perry pump, KM header & Macs quiet pipe... not sure yet but need to get something on order soon so as not to slow up building.

Anyway they are beautiful kits and a pleasure to build. Has anyone out there actually flown either a Skystar or the similar MK kit the Super VR-90 and can provide some feedback?

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks for the comments Scott. I am a 2-banger myself. I've ordered a Webra 80 Longstroke rear exhaust w/pump. I'll use the Webra header and a Just Engines Purple Pipe. If that pipe proves too short I'll use a Hatori 700 or a big Webra pipe I have lying around. The 80 Racing LS needs to operate at below 11.000 rpms so I'll need a long pipe and a big prop. The webra will fit like a glove in the MK O.S soft mount and the header looks like a perfect match with 45 mm rise. Engine and header will be completely concealed within the cowl I hope. [8D]

I didn't want to go down the road of mounting pumps and having a custom header made so I ruled out any side exhaust two strokes. Webra, MVVS and Jett all make large rear exhaust engines but only Webra comes with a built in pump. The YS is said to be very potent but I'm more used to 2 strokes.

I also considered an OS 120 SurpassIII as it's the same price as the YS1.10 but it won't fint in the nose so I went with the Webra.

Here's a few pics of the fuse. The turtledeck was in fact not that great but still no real problems to build straight. Incredibly impressive fit and quality of the engine mounting block and the undercarriage block. Both come prelaminated of rock hard balsa and a hard wood that I do not know the English name for. The u/c block even has a preshaped lip. Both fit with millimetre presicion, just look at the picture with the u/c block fitted. Not glued, just pushed into place.

Ha Jon...that looks really good...ain't nothing like a well designed and thought out kit. Kits like that keep it interesting from start to finish. Do you have a web site address for MK???

Unfortunately, MK doesn't have a web site. I've heard they used to, but it disapeared and no one can locate a new one.

John

It's looking nice Jon - looking forward to see it on the field during the spring time. Hopefully you bring it with you to the Vingtreff at Vingtors field. I got a mail from Micromac today and a friend of him was not satisfied with Imagine 50, lots of work to complete the ARF and far from the quality as you mentioned for the above plane.

Best regards
(Superstar 40)

I've seen this site mentioned as a source for MK kits quite a few times. Click the button in the upper left

http://www.singahobby.com/

I've ordered from Singapore Hobbies and they are top notch. But, their catalog only just touches on the vast number of products offered by MK and gives few details on most of the items they carry.

John

Hobby line lists a lot more of the MK range.

http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html

scroll the menu on the left to get Balsa Kits below Airplanes.

I have one of their catalogues here that has alot of stuff innit. I got it from a pattern shop.

MK Katalog... Now that would be something. I gotta e-mail some MK dealers and ask about that.

Here's the engine. It's a Webra .80 Racing Longstroke Competition w/pump. I hope it'll live up to it's name. It certainly fits nice although the header should have had a cm more rise to clear the wing. I may just saw it off before the wing and use a length of reinforced silicone to clear the wing. The mount is MK, made for O.S 90 FS. Fits nice but a little trimming of the rubber blocks was needed. The engine will be completely concealed within the glass underbelly.

Jon, if you are careful with a torch, you can gently heat the header and give it a little bend. I've done this on several headers without any problems. Just remember you're working with aluminum so go easy on both the heat and the amount of force you use to bend it.

John

I'll see if I can fax you a photocopy cause its very small, just a few pages, but has planes like the new synergy and the old jokers. I still have your fax I think.

Jon...That is the first slide barrel carb I have seen on a plane motor...used them in r/c car racong mostly.
The header is easy to bend ...heating it will sure help...I bend Macs headers all the time...just a little heat is needed. I wear welders gloves and just heat the section and give it a bend.
Do you think you are putting enough horse power on the plane

Interesting! The header is chromed, so it'll probably peel, but does that matter? Fit is more important than looks. I can give it a whirl but what kind of torch are we talking about, something I can pick up in a hardware store? And what sort of heat is required? I've never worked with metal.

Jon,

To bend aluminium successfully you need to anneal the metal. Firstly rub a bar of ordinary household soap all over the area you want to bend. Use the bar of soap dry and keep rubbing until you get an even coating. Next using a small propane torch which here in the UK can be obtained from any do it yourself or hardware store, heat the coated area with the torch keeping the flame moving. Do not play the heat in one place and keep heating until the soap turns completely black. At this point stop and allow the metal to cool down completely to room temperature. You will now find that the metal will be very soft and the bend can be made with very little force. Aluminium alloys actually age harden, so if you now leave the header for several days it will eventually revert back to the hardness level it had before you annealed it. The bending process also work hardens it a little so if you need to adjust the bend once youve made it you should re-anneal using the soap indicator method.

Hope this helps.

Malcolm Harris