New CA models Epsilon build (easy as pie)
#353
ORIGINAL: dinoslmn
Hi,
Why you will not use MK also for Epsilon ? Only weight issue ? It is made from plastic material. can you tell us his weight ?
Thanks,
Hi,
Why you will not use MK also for Epsilon ? Only weight issue ? It is made from plastic material. can you tell us his weight ?
Thanks,
(c) Morten Laugesen
ini
#354

My Feedback: (3)
The long fuselage makes any weight back there undesirable. The bellcrank is a bit heavy, but it is way overpriced at $35 + shipping. Plus, either DEPS or a dowel with 2 control rods will allow for more clearance between the elevator control rods and the fuselage sides....which gives more room for the rudder rods.
#356
Yes, it is 15 grams, with an added pull-pull lever and two ball joints.
There are two versions of MK dual bell cranks: normal and wide. The above is normal and wide version is probably 1 gram heavier.
Actually the weight is quite significant, especially located so far in the back.
ini
There are two versions of MK dual bell cranks: normal and wide. The above is normal and wide version is probably 1 gram heavier.
Actually the weight is quite significant, especially located so far in the back.
ini
#358

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From: Hastings, NE
Well I found another problem with my Epsilon ARC. On one wing half, the bevel at the trailing edge is not centered. I now have one aileron that is about 1.5 to 2 mm low. I didn't notice it until now. This can't be good for anything. On the other hand, maybe it will compensate for all of the other things that were wrong and it will fly nice and straight. I have had nothing but problems with this POS. The worst part is there is little recourse when dealing with CA. With my previous problems with this plane, I was offered a replacement if I returned this one. I would lose big time with shipping charges. Or I could have 25% off of my next purchase from them, which isn't likely. Oh well. The price you pay for knowledge and experience.
#359
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From: Santiago, CHILE
Dinoslmn:
I used MK also for my ARC Epsilon and it works perfect. I moved the fuel tank to the CG, using a Perry Pump for my 91 FX, and installed the battery on the original fuel tank position. I'm using an APC 14x8 and it flies extremely well
. I'm not using it for 3D, I'm using it for practice some P05 and F05
Maneuvers and for my own FUN
!!!
Saludos,
I used MK also for my ARC Epsilon and it works perfect. I moved the fuel tank to the CG, using a Perry Pump for my 91 FX, and installed the battery on the original fuel tank position. I'm using an APC 14x8 and it flies extremely well
. I'm not using it for 3D, I'm using it for practice some P05 and F05
Maneuvers and for my own FUN
!!!Saludos,
#360
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From: Belmont ,
CA
Hi all,
I have started building up my Epsilon. I have build up the fuselage and capped the wings with the leading edges. Now,
I have few questions in my mind which are as under:
1. What engine and prop. would be the best suited for this airplane, I am planning to fly patterns and may plan to fly 3D?
2. If let say I go for 91 FX engine, can I use a Dubro soft mount and Bissions pitts style muffler, is their enough space inside to accomodate both?
3. Is it important to fix the engine at a 45 degree angle or can I go with a inverted or sideways?
4. How do i take out the correct engine mounting wholes without a drawing?
5. How do you mount your landing gear as the screws tightened from inside?
Kindly help with the above questions or if their is any modifiaction required to beef up the strength or flying caracterstics.
Regards
Sharad Goyal
I have started building up my Epsilon. I have build up the fuselage and capped the wings with the leading edges. Now,
I have few questions in my mind which are as under:
1. What engine and prop. would be the best suited for this airplane, I am planning to fly patterns and may plan to fly 3D?
2. If let say I go for 91 FX engine, can I use a Dubro soft mount and Bissions pitts style muffler, is their enough space inside to accomodate both?
3. Is it important to fix the engine at a 45 degree angle or can I go with a inverted or sideways?
4. How do i take out the correct engine mounting wholes without a drawing?
5. How do you mount your landing gear as the screws tightened from inside?
Kindly help with the above questions or if their is any modifiaction required to beef up the strength or flying caracterstics.
Regards
Sharad Goyal
#361

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From: Hastings, NE
3. Mount the engine any way to accomodate your exhaust. Most make a tunnel in the bottom of the fuse and use the standard exhaust.
4. The engine mount location is determined by the cowl.
5. Use bolts and locking nuts for the landing gear. The locking nuts go inside the fuse.
4. The engine mount location is determined by the cowl.
5. Use bolts and locking nuts for the landing gear. The locking nuts go inside the fuse.
#362

My Feedback: (3)
Does the Epsilon come with laser marks for the center of the firewall? My Widebody has those on each fuselage piece. You use this line for the center. Center your engine mount and offset if the instructions call for it. Mine was 5mm left of center. It is good to have your engine on the engine mount, and make some trials to center the mount with the firewall and cowl. You can mark the best location. Some people turn the plane on its tail with the nose up. Then, they lay the engine mount on the firewall until it is positioned perfectly. You can test the cowl too. They then put a few drops of CA to temporarily glue the mount to the firewall to mark the holes to drill.
I mounted the engine on my Widebody upright.
I mounted the engine on my Widebody upright.
#363
TO CENTER THE ENGINE:
In cowling perforate in front to leave space for the cigueñal.
Put the cowling on the table and mesure the center height.
put the engine on the engine mount looking the height
Put upwards the airplane with fire wall looking up. (the tail on the floor)
Put motor with its engine mount on fire wall.
Put the cowling.
Put the rear plate of the spinner.
Center motor according to inclination of cowling.
Mark location of screws of motor support.
tO CENTER ONE ENGINE I DO THES A LOT OF TIMES, PUT THE ENGINE AND GET OUT,,,,PUT THE ENGINE MARK AND GET OUT.......................................PUT THE ENGINE AND GET ........
UNTIL IT IS TRIM PERFECTLY..........
SERGIO
In cowling perforate in front to leave space for the cigueñal.
Put the cowling on the table and mesure the center height.
put the engine on the engine mount looking the height
Put upwards the airplane with fire wall looking up. (the tail on the floor)
Put motor with its engine mount on fire wall.
Put the cowling.
Put the rear plate of the spinner.
Center motor according to inclination of cowling.
Mark location of screws of motor support.
tO CENTER ONE ENGINE I DO THES A LOT OF TIMES, PUT THE ENGINE AND GET OUT,,,,PUT THE ENGINE MARK AND GET OUT.......................................PUT THE ENGINE AND GET ........
UNTIL IT IS TRIM PERFECTLY..........
SERGIO
#364
Has anyone been doing any 3-D with their Epsilon? I saw the video from CA models, and they show the plane torque rolling, but I was just wondering if anyone has been doing some other 3-D?
Is it stable in a harrier? Can it do rolling harriers? How about high alpha knife edge, or waterfalls?
If someone's had luck doing 3-D with their Epsilon, what kind of a setup are they using: CG location, control throws, spoilerons ect...
Thanks
Is it stable in a harrier? Can it do rolling harriers? How about high alpha knife edge, or waterfalls?
If someone's had luck doing 3-D with their Epsilon, what kind of a setup are they using: CG location, control throws, spoilerons ect...
Thanks
#365
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: 3dUkidding!
Schpankme
Where did you get that cool little chart from? Could be very useful for other engines!!
I have tried a multitude of props on the 91 fx and the best feel was the 14x8 apc with out doubt. I tried a 15x8 a 15x6 a 13x10 a 14x10 and this is how I felt:-
15x8 ok but reduced the revs by too much
15x6 good infact very good and an ideal 3d prop only thing I would change is maybee try to source a narrow blade version to allow it to spool up quicker.
13x10 very good for windy conditions but you must keep the speed on or else it takes a while to get going
Anybodey notice a thene here???
14x10 reduced the revs by way to much .. once wound up it was ok but if you let it slow down at all a dive is the only way to release the pwoer back into the prop.
Now then the 110
14x10 awsome good for pattern keeps the speed on but not to good for grunt
14x12 good but only on windy days as it seems to stress the engine (Yes it can be done!)
15x6 good but too revy and seems to loose power as its to busy reving
15x8 Awsome current prop I use for pattern and 3D as the right thrust and down thrust is spot on for this prop
16x8 master airscrew (old test prop) tooo much, might be ok in an apc especially narrow.
All of the above props are apc with the exception of the 16x8 wich is a horrible old that I just tried to test the engine.
And as I have said above the 110 seems to just pull from everywhere where as the os had to be reved to keep it in the power.
I like your analogy acroman "Stump puller"... may be YS should use it in there advertising!!
Please this is only my opinion. Having tried both engines in the same model I am only going from my experience. If some one out there can help me get my OS pulling as well I will be very happy as it is collecting dust at the moment and it seems such a waste for such a great little engine!
Schpankme
Where did you get that cool little chart from? Could be very useful for other engines!!
I have tried a multitude of props on the 91 fx and the best feel was the 14x8 apc with out doubt. I tried a 15x8 a 15x6 a 13x10 a 14x10 and this is how I felt:-
15x8 ok but reduced the revs by too much
15x6 good infact very good and an ideal 3d prop only thing I would change is maybee try to source a narrow blade version to allow it to spool up quicker.
13x10 very good for windy conditions but you must keep the speed on or else it takes a while to get going
Anybodey notice a thene here???
14x10 reduced the revs by way to much .. once wound up it was ok but if you let it slow down at all a dive is the only way to release the pwoer back into the prop.
Now then the 110
14x10 awsome good for pattern keeps the speed on but not to good for grunt
14x12 good but only on windy days as it seems to stress the engine (Yes it can be done!)
15x6 good but too revy and seems to loose power as its to busy reving
15x8 Awsome current prop I use for pattern and 3D as the right thrust and down thrust is spot on for this prop
16x8 master airscrew (old test prop) tooo much, might be ok in an apc especially narrow.
All of the above props are apc with the exception of the 16x8 wich is a horrible old that I just tried to test the engine.
And as I have said above the 110 seems to just pull from everywhere where as the os had to be reved to keep it in the power.
I like your analogy acroman "Stump puller"... may be YS should use it in there advertising!!
Please this is only my opinion. Having tried both engines in the same model I am only going from my experience. If some one out there can help me get my OS pulling as well I will be very happy as it is collecting dust at the moment and it seems such a waste for such a great little engine!
I have been waiting 4 months for a 1.10FZ. At this point I'm giving up and I have decided to put an Evolution 1.00NX that I have on hand in my Epsilon. It turns just about every prop 400 rpm more than the .91FX.
#366
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From: rugby, UNITED KINGDOM
AdrianM
I havent tried a 14x6 however I have tried a 13x7 as I wanted to see what it would be like if I let the OS really rev as the quoted max HP is at 15000 rpm which is where the 13x7 revved it was well loud but hey just 1 test!
It did pull well but it seemed to run out of puff low down where you really need the power ... when will engine manufacturers ever publish torque curves so we can prop to how we want the plane to feel
To be honest the best combination which I curenlty have on my Seagull Harrier is the Blue OS hatori pipe set long with a 15x6 as this hits the tourque curve smack on. Its pulling about 10k and pulls the harrier (8lbs 6ozs dry) out of the hover ... not like a rocket but with enough authority to give you confidence.
I must say the YS is the only engine in this class that has the right power in the right place at the right time .... it simply can not be surpassed (excuse the pun)
Good luck with the evo 100 I have been intregued by this engine but scared by the sc / asp type of carb. Please let us a know how you get on with it
How are the other pilots out there getting on with there Epsilons
3DUK
I havent tried a 14x6 however I have tried a 13x7 as I wanted to see what it would be like if I let the OS really rev as the quoted max HP is at 15000 rpm which is where the 13x7 revved it was well loud but hey just 1 test!
It did pull well but it seemed to run out of puff low down where you really need the power ... when will engine manufacturers ever publish torque curves so we can prop to how we want the plane to feel
To be honest the best combination which I curenlty have on my Seagull Harrier is the Blue OS hatori pipe set long with a 15x6 as this hits the tourque curve smack on. Its pulling about 10k and pulls the harrier (8lbs 6ozs dry) out of the hover ... not like a rocket but with enough authority to give you confidence.
I must say the YS is the only engine in this class that has the right power in the right place at the right time .... it simply can not be surpassed (excuse the pun)
Good luck with the evo 100 I have been intregued by this engine but scared by the sc / asp type of carb. Please let us a know how you get on with it
How are the other pilots out there getting on with there Epsilons
3DUK
#368
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
Am still waiting for mine to turn up. CA in spain said they sent it 2 weeks ago but wont/cant send me a UPS tracking number.[>:] There is a build thread taking place on ************* if you want to see how another ones going on. I will be using a YS 110 in mine when/if it turns up.
#369
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Hmm, thats odd. They sent me a tracking number as soon as it was sent (I had it before it was entered on to the UPS website [&:])
Biggest problem was getting it out of UPS once they had got it here [:@]
Biggest problem was getting it out of UPS once they had got it here [:@]
#370
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
I thought it was a little weird. But have sent 5 emails so far and the first reply said we will as UPS for it then give it to you and since then nothing. So I think a phone call to Spain is in order or perhaps an email to CA in Argentina.[:@]
#372
Senior Member
Questions for anyone with their tank on the CG?
3dUkidding! - How did you fit a tank on the CG? What brand/size? I understand I will have to cut up the top deck a bit so that is no problem. I would just like to get some ideas on the most efficient way of doing this. How far back from F3 is the front of your tank?
My Fuse is all framed and glued. I am installing my DEPS system for the elevators tomorrow then I will seal the bottom of the fuse. Man this thing builds fast!
I had one odd development. The center line mark on F4 was off by 3mm. I measured, re-measured and measured again then eyeballed it for about 10 minutes before I figured it out. The pip on the bottom of lightening hole is centered so I used that for reference...weird!
3dUkidding! - How did you fit a tank on the CG? What brand/size? I understand I will have to cut up the top deck a bit so that is no problem. I would just like to get some ideas on the most efficient way of doing this. How far back from F3 is the front of your tank?
My Fuse is all framed and glued. I am installing my DEPS system for the elevators tomorrow then I will seal the bottom of the fuse. Man this thing builds fast!
I had one odd development. The center line mark on F4 was off by 3mm. I measured, re-measured and measured again then eyeballed it for about 10 minutes before I figured it out. The pip on the bottom of lightening hole is centered so I used that for reference...weird!
#373
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From: rugby, UNITED KINGDOM
AdrianM
Tank was a tetra 400cc and I cut the ply centre away rearwards of the lightening holes so the back of the tank was just in front of the rudder / elevator servo. Tight fit but worth it!
Couple of pics worth a 1000 words here you go .... oh and the engine pic you asked for!
I think the time has come to de winterise the Epsilon and have some fun .... if the weather holds I will fly it tonight.
Forgot to add I put in the extra piece of ply below the tank to replace some of the strength I had removed from the tank cut out ... 2 benifits holds the tank in nicely as well!
Tank was a tetra 400cc and I cut the ply centre away rearwards of the lightening holes so the back of the tank was just in front of the rudder / elevator servo. Tight fit but worth it!
Couple of pics worth a 1000 words here you go .... oh and the engine pic you asked for!
I think the time has come to de winterise the Epsilon and have some fun .... if the weather holds I will fly it tonight.
Forgot to add I put in the extra piece of ply below the tank to replace some of the strength I had removed from the tank cut out ... 2 benifits holds the tank in nicely as well!
#374
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: 3dUkidding!
Tank was a tetra 400cc and I cut the ply centre away rearwards of the lightening holes so the back of the tank was just in front of the rudder / elevator servo. Tight fit but worth it!
Tank was a tetra 400cc and I cut the ply centre away rearwards of the lightening holes so the back of the tank was just in front of the rudder / elevator servo. Tight fit but worth it!
Did you have to sand the bottom of the front turtle deck to lower it a bit so it matched the fire wall?




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