Grolen

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Should have one of these arriving this week. Any thoughts or experience on a Moki 135 in it (have one on the shelf)?

Jeff Page

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Old Dogg 60, where did you get your TT 1.20 rear exhaust, and how much? I am thinking about going with that set-up on my Excelleron. Jeff

olddogg60

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Hi Jeff,
I actually have 2 of them. I aquired one from Ebay ($90.00) and one from RC Universe market ($150.00). Both of them were NIB and one came with the pipe an header. They are TT 120RP's, rear exhaust with pump.
I believe that Quantum Models sells them for something like $199.00.

Bill

Jeff Page

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Thanks Old Dogg, looks like you got a pretty good deal. Jeff B

olddogg60

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Hi Jeff,
I thought they were a pretty good deal. After I bought the first one then I was looking for a header and a pipe so the second one seemed like a good deal too.
If I see another one for sale I'll give you a shout.

Bill

Xrod

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Hey guys,
Keep me posted on your results using the TT 120rp. I'm planning to use one in a CG Finesse. I bench ran it with header pipe only and a MA 16x10 and it was turning a little more than 9,000 rpm. seemed to burble in the mid range a bit, but will wait till I run it with pipe to play with the pump adjustment. I'd like to know what kind of length you guys are using with the pipe. Are you using the extension piece that comes with the TT pipe kit? Thanks,
Steve

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I'd think if it's around 31-33 oz, and you can use a header/canister exhaust back over the CG, you'll be just fine! Battery will have to go to l.e. of stab, but that's about it.

olddogg60

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Hi Steve,
Haven't run mine yet so no news at this time. The pipe I have is 22" and the header is approximately 4.5" with a 1.75" rise.
Part #'s Header - 9767
Pipe - 9712
I'll let you know when I have some RPM readings.

Bill

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

Just picked one up from hobby people, and will chime in here as it gets built.

The first thing I will mention is that I found a use for those funky metal hinges. When installing the aileron servo in one wing, I slipped and pulled the *fish line* out. I tied the fish line to one of the holes in the hinge and dropped it into the aileron hole. Viola!

When I saw the above mentioned picture, I ass-u-me'd that this was the stock setup. No, the instructions call for the conventional *trainer-ish* setup of elevator and rudder side by side, and throttle crosswise ahead of them. I like Aerobobs setup better, and I always lay the elevator servo on its side. I have been using this method on a pushrod to split elevator halves to eliminate the need fo MK belcrank. It makes sense for a pull-pull set up too. No twisting of the cables.

I plan to use my tried and true YS.91. I see in this thread that a lot of people are using bigger engines, but I think it should be enough for the intermediate pattern.

ElectRick

My Feedback: (2)

After scrounging around my house for an hour, I finally found my new, but long-stored Hatori 650 pipe (actually I'm not even sure it's not a Hatori lookalike, as it's not polished). It has what looks to be a Hatori fuse-top header in the box with it, but I'm certain it will be much too short for the pipe installation. I'm guessing I'll need about 22" from the plug to the first baffle on the pipe, and this thing is barely 22" long from header flange to the end of the pipe!
Anyone know a source for a ridiculously long RE fuse-top header with about a 1.5" rise?
Are my pipe length estimates in the ballpark (MVVS .91 RE/Hatori 650/15-8 or 15-10)?

I'm SO out of the loop when it comes to pattern engine stuff anymore.

Rick

swlarcham

My Feedback: (1)

Dreadnaut
You can fly that YS91 since you've got it, but I don't think you'll be happy on the Intermediate verticals. I upgraded to the Ys110 for that very reason.

Rick
If you already have a header and just need more length (who doesn't ) You can always add a tubing extention between the header and the pipe with an extra coupler. Just look for an aluminum folding chair, walking crutch etc for stock. If you have an aluminum recycling center near you, go by & tell the guy what you're looking for. Take the header with you for size matching. I picked up all I wanted to carry home & gave the guy $5.00 & we were both happy.

Eddie

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

dreadnut - my picture that you refer to was in reply to someone wanting pictures of that kind of configuration. It is what I normally use, but it is NOT what I did on the Excelleron. No need. The pre-installed plastic cable guides, and the trays, are perfect. I'm very critical of these setups, and was hesitant, but after installing it dead stock, and flying it, I'm happy I didn't try to convert to my "normal" setup. What SA has built into the design is just dandy.

Good use of those hinges!

I also concur with Eddie - you will NOT have enough vertical for very enjoyable flying, even if you're not using it for competition. It's a big fuse, bigger wing, and needs more punch.

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Exhaust tunnel question. I am working on a short tunnel on the underside of the front of the fuse (not an Excelleron). I plan to line with thin, flexible plywood. What is a good way to finish this off? Coat with epoxy? Fiberglass it? Cover it? How much clearance should you have from the muffler? What holds up well close to a hot muffler? Thanks.

dbweber

My Feedback: (9)

the thin plywood will be fine ( has been for me) then cover that with light glass and epoxy and then paint. If you can keep at least a half inch clearance around the pipe it will work well.

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

I hit the first snag. I bolt the wing on and check tip to tail, and all is well until I sight it from the rear. The wing is *banked* about 2 or 3 degrees to the left. I can tweek the horiz stab to the left so its paralell, but then the vertical is wacked.

The thing to do, I suppose, is to trim the left wing saddle. Then I would have to *move* the left side dowel hole up somehow. [:@]

Has anyone else had this problem, and how did you fix it?

ElectRick

My Feedback: (2)

You gotta do what you gotta do to make it all square and level.

Trim the saddle as necessary, and elongate the left dowel hole as you need to in order to make it work. After you're done, you can make a 1" square (or thereabouts) scab out of 1/8" birch ply and glue it in behind the oblong dowel hole on the front side of the bulkhead. Then you can fill and redrill the hole where it needs to be. The ply piece will reinforce the hole and also capture the dowel, assuming the dowel is long enough.

If you can get to the front of the bulkhead, you can drill the dowel hole into the scab first, and then glue it in over the dowel with the realigned wing bolted in place. That would guarantee accuracy of the hole's placement. Might be a good idea to rub some candlewax or something on the dowel first to keep glue from sticking to it.

Rick

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

JVB - the suggestions you got from others are fine, IMO. I've actually made an entire "header" tunnel before by gluing in a paper towel cardboard tube, then coating with epoxy. Tunnels and such shouldn't be structural items. If they are, then just a couple of light partial bulkheads are all that's needed. Coated with epoxy works. I've just gotten my can of Liquid Heat Shield by Bob Violett models (from Central Hobbies). It's supposed to be a brush on heat barrier like space shuttle ceramic; I know the jet guys use it. I'm putting some on the Excelleron wing/tunnel area, just to be safe.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

dreadnaut - what ElectRick sez is right. Ya gotta do whatcha gotta do. His suggestions are very good. It's frustrating to have to do, but the end is worth the work. You will have a VERY straight airplane, if you fix it properly, and it will fly excellently.

Have not heard of anyone else with this issue (or maybe no one caught it yet)... I'll be rechecking mine here in a little bit.

TOMORROW is ST2300 first flights, folks. I've tweaked, checked, adjusted, balanced....time to see if it holds or blows up. I'll report back here, or at the NTSB.

Bob Pastorello

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I hope this doesn't get me shot by RCU police.... I just have to post this...
Tower is running a $25 off for a $150 order, and the ST 2300 is $149.99...that makes this a $125 BRAND NEW powerhouse for a LOT of different airframes.

I don't know where or what motor represents that kind of power/weight/price package.... of ANY brand right now...

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

just spent the a.m. taking measurements, and this is what i came up with. The tail is twisted 1.1 degree

It's going back now.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Bummer. Having wrestled with this on my current Arresti, it ain't worth the screwing with it to make it right, as no matter what you do it ain't gonna BE right.

I believe they will be quick to correct it; let us know how they handle this, please.

WAY too windy for me, anyhow....so I'm hangin' on the puter again.
Is it spring yet?

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

Hobby People in San Diego swapped the fuse for one in the other kit they had on hand with no fuss. I just finished gluing in the stab. My goal is maiden flight in two weeks.

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Finally got some decent flying weather around here to do some prop testing on the
Excelleron. Slightly cloudy with a light breeze out of the south right down the runway.
I've been trying to test various 3 and 4 blade props but wanted some mild weather
so I could see the differences without fighting the wind.
The YS 1.10 is really running sweet now as it's broken in and running on PowerMaster
30% Heli fuel. I had an assortment of APC and Master Airscrew props along with a few
2 blades just to try some different sizes. To make a long story short the best all around
performing prop is the one I started with , an APC 15x10 two blade pattern prop. I really
liked an APC 13.8x10 four blade as it was very quiet but seemed to not pull as hard in the
vertical as the two blade did. If I could find a multi-blade prop that would pull as hard as the
two blade but be as quiet as the four blade it would be perfect , guess we can't have everything.
One thing I'm starting to realize about the Excelleron is it will perform the pattern at a much
slower speed than I'm used to , I'm trying to learn to fly at a much slower pace as this airplane
is very graceful when flown at slower speeds.

tommy s

tph1

My Feedback: (12)

Tommy, What kind of rpm were you getting with the 15/10 and are you using the stock exhaust?
Tom

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Tom,
I'm using a Performance Specialties muffler with a 30 deg elbow. The 15x10
shows around 9400 running slightly rich. I've never really leaned it out as it
has more than enough power as it is and has less chance of backfiring and
throwing a prop if it is left slightly rich.
By the way the 4 blade prop was very usable as it had more than enough vertical
power to fly the pattern but there was a noticable difference in going back to the
2 blade.

tommy s