Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
#1
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Greetings all,
I'm still searching for a replacement for my old "Cajun Products TigerTail IV,which has a glass fuselage with pipe exiting the rear of the canopy.
I would be most appreciative for any help locating one,as it flew nicely and economically with the O.S. 91FX.
Hate to post but here is a picture of the remains .......I sure want one of these and HOPE one of you can set me up.
Thank You!
Richard McFarland[8D][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
I'm still searching for a replacement for my old "Cajun Products TigerTail IV,which has a glass fuselage with pipe exiting the rear of the canopy.
I would be most appreciative for any help locating one,as it flew nicely and economically with the O.S. 91FX.
Hate to post but here is a picture of the remains .......I sure want one of these and HOPE one of you can set me up.
Thank You!
Richard McFarland[8D][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
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From: albuquerque, NM,
I have a tiger tail with a new o.s. 60 with pump. I just bought the plane at an auction. Then I bought the engine from a club member for 200.00. I had to order the header and tuned pipe. I have 550.00 in the plane. Let me know if that is something you might be interested in? Plane comes with servos, engine. I will include receiver and futaba radio for another 100.00
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From: Cottondale, AL
I recently acquired 2 sets of foam cores for the Tigertail 4. No stab or fuselage but the cores are boxed and nested.
I had no idea what plane the Tigertail was till I saw this post.
Ever find one?
Don
I had no idea what plane the Tigertail was till I saw this post.
Ever find one?
Don
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From: Cottondale, AL
Wing Manufacturing. Both sets are in the original mfg. cartons with instruction sheets on working with foam, etc. Big wings, eh?
My wife was not happy that I paid what I did for them but I THOUGHT I was buying a matched set of wings to build a bipe. When I opened tha cartons and saw double taperd pattern cores my heart sank. Knowing a little about pattern ships, I figured them to be Curare or Phoenix cores. Then I saw in marker on one of the nests, TigerTail 4. Which brought me to the forums to find out what the heck I had bought.
I'll never get for them what I paid...(the guy saw me comin'). I'm into vintage, biplane and nostalgia at the moment and am wanting a nice bipe or prewar something. I've looked high and low for a Mulligan, Monocoupe 90A or a Reliant.
Would you be willing to trade a "something" for these cores? I can certainly provide a few photos. I couldn't help but notice that you have several "projects" there and "something" interesting-looking hanging from the wall.
Glad you found your bird...looks like a new! I know what searching for a favorite plane can be like...I hunted high and low for an RC Nobler for years before I finally found an original kit last Spring!
Sorry to run on like this...let me know your thoughts.
Regards,
Don
My wife was not happy that I paid what I did for them but I THOUGHT I was buying a matched set of wings to build a bipe. When I opened tha cartons and saw double taperd pattern cores my heart sank. Knowing a little about pattern ships, I figured them to be Curare or Phoenix cores. Then I saw in marker on one of the nests, TigerTail 4. Which brought me to the forums to find out what the heck I had bought.
I'll never get for them what I paid...(the guy saw me comin'). I'm into vintage, biplane and nostalgia at the moment and am wanting a nice bipe or prewar something. I've looked high and low for a Mulligan, Monocoupe 90A or a Reliant.
Would you be willing to trade a "something" for these cores? I can certainly provide a few photos. I couldn't help but notice that you have several "projects" there and "something" interesting-looking hanging from the wall.
Glad you found your bird...looks like a new! I know what searching for a favorite plane can be like...I hunted high and low for an RC Nobler for years before I finally found an original kit last Spring!
Sorry to run on like this...let me know your thoughts.
Regards,
Don
#11

It's funny this post just re-surfaced. My wife was cleaning out some stuff for a yard sale and came upon a set of plans for the Tiger Tail 4. My dad built one maybe 10 years or more ago. I always liked it and wish I still had it. I've thought about building another one. Don, what would you take for a set of cores? Also, I don't know if this is what you are looking for but one of our club members is a Monocoupe nut. He has designed a number of planes in the series and I'm certain a 90A is in the mix. You'd have to scratch it but his plans are quite good. My dad (again) proofed a set for a 1/3 scale and that plane still is in my fleet. He has plans in both 1/4 and 1/3 scale for most of his designs and they are apparently well thought of among Monocoupe modelers. I'll hook you guys up of you want. Contact me at [email protected] if you'd like. Also I think Ikon N'West used to make a 90A in 1/4 scale.
Rick H.
Rick H.
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From: lincoln, UNITED KINGDOM
hi there my first time on the forum i noticed your ref to the tiger tail you say iv but mine is just called tiger tai by ron chidgey usa ages ago now and it was the best pattern ship ive ever had a bit of wash out in the wing tips and it does everything you want. i just recently went on to a website called xmodelplans.com and the plan is there for ÂŁ11.00 plus post and packing for the asking hope this may be usefull info to someone dave price
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From: Cottondale, AL
I too, will be doing this chore for a large KAOS core I'm sheeting.
First, I match the planks edge to edge to insure a close fit. I then label them on the underside, Rt-a, Rb-b, Lt-a, Lb-b, etc., (right top panel, left bottom panel). Once I have them all matched and ready to assemble, I use a hard perfectly flat surface like a glass table top or a scrap piece of float glass.
I use low tack, (blue) painter's tape and apply strips to the upper sides by holding two planks together at a time until I have the correct number of taped planks for the particular core I'm sheeting. I usually do all 4 sheets for both panels all at the same time.
I then lay the completed skin, taped side down to the glass surface. I apply thin CA at points to tack glue each plank to it's mate until all planks are held secure by both tape and glue. I then wet each seam with water and wick thin CA along the entire joint. I use lead weights to hold each glued seam down several seconds until the CA "sets". Then I move on to the next seam, working my way across the entire skin. Once completed, I remove the tape and have a completed skin. I lightly block sand the entire glued surface as this is the side I will adhere to the foam.
The opposite side usually shows no signs of glue or being bonded in any way and presents a superior surface for glassing, monokote, silk and dope or whatever your final finishing technique may be. I lightly sand prepatory to applying my finish covering.
I prefer to adhere my skins, (both ply and balsa) to the cores using thinned Z-Poxy or 30 min epoxy. Use 90% alcohol-based isopropyl to thin your epoxy! I like a consistancy akin to jello when you first mix it with hot water...thicker than water but thin enough to easily pour.
I pour an amount onto the foam and spread it out gently with a trowl or plastic spreader while the core is nested in it's bottom cradle.
I apply the skin, insure it's centered correctly then flip it over into the opposite nested cradle. I apply the balance of the epoxy to the other side in the same manner; apply the skin and place the nested cradle on top and apply weights to hold it all nice and secure overnight.
I then mix more epoxy, complete the other wing panel and sleep on it. Next day it's trim the excess skins, sand the LE and TE's, apply the necessary woods and sand it all again.
Hope this helps....
Oh yeah, to answer your question: CA to glue the planks edge to edge!
PointMagu
"There I was, flat on my back..."
First, I match the planks edge to edge to insure a close fit. I then label them on the underside, Rt-a, Rb-b, Lt-a, Lb-b, etc., (right top panel, left bottom panel). Once I have them all matched and ready to assemble, I use a hard perfectly flat surface like a glass table top or a scrap piece of float glass.
I use low tack, (blue) painter's tape and apply strips to the upper sides by holding two planks together at a time until I have the correct number of taped planks for the particular core I'm sheeting. I usually do all 4 sheets for both panels all at the same time.
I then lay the completed skin, taped side down to the glass surface. I apply thin CA at points to tack glue each plank to it's mate until all planks are held secure by both tape and glue. I then wet each seam with water and wick thin CA along the entire joint. I use lead weights to hold each glued seam down several seconds until the CA "sets". Then I move on to the next seam, working my way across the entire skin. Once completed, I remove the tape and have a completed skin. I lightly block sand the entire glued surface as this is the side I will adhere to the foam.
The opposite side usually shows no signs of glue or being bonded in any way and presents a superior surface for glassing, monokote, silk and dope or whatever your final finishing technique may be. I lightly sand prepatory to applying my finish covering.
I prefer to adhere my skins, (both ply and balsa) to the cores using thinned Z-Poxy or 30 min epoxy. Use 90% alcohol-based isopropyl to thin your epoxy! I like a consistancy akin to jello when you first mix it with hot water...thicker than water but thin enough to easily pour.
I pour an amount onto the foam and spread it out gently with a trowl or plastic spreader while the core is nested in it's bottom cradle.
I apply the skin, insure it's centered correctly then flip it over into the opposite nested cradle. I apply the balance of the epoxy to the other side in the same manner; apply the skin and place the nested cradle on top and apply weights to hold it all nice and secure overnight.
I then mix more epoxy, complete the other wing panel and sleep on it. Next day it's trim the excess skins, sand the LE and TE's, apply the necessary woods and sand it all again.
Hope this helps....
Oh yeah, to answer your question: CA to glue the planks edge to edge!
PointMagu
"There I was, flat on my back..."
#17
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From: Cullman, AL
Richard
Please excuse my laziness, but if you use Elmer's ProBond, you don't need to glue the seems. True and tape the pieces together for the skin, spread the ProBond on as you would epoxy. Spray a little water on the core. Put the whole thing together and weight it. The ProBond foams when kicked with a fine spray of water. It foams into any voids between beads in the foam. It also foams into the seams in the sheeting. Block sand them after curing.
ProBond does not delaminate. Several years ago, I lost a Curare in Bowling Green, KY. Dumb thumbs directed in earthward wide open. Lots of things broke, but none of the sheeting let go. Even where the wing broke, the sheeting was still firmly attached.
Please excuse my laziness, but if you use Elmer's ProBond, you don't need to glue the seems. True and tape the pieces together for the skin, spread the ProBond on as you would epoxy. Spray a little water on the core. Put the whole thing together and weight it. The ProBond foams when kicked with a fine spray of water. It foams into any voids between beads in the foam. It also foams into the seams in the sheeting. Block sand them after curing.
ProBond does not delaminate. Several years ago, I lost a Curare in Bowling Green, KY. Dumb thumbs directed in earthward wide open. Lots of things broke, but none of the sheeting let go. Even where the wing broke, the sheeting was still firmly attached.
#18
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Hi Steve and every one,
I taped the 3/32' wing sheeting together, electing to use wide regular masking tape to hold them in place while the Ambroid Se-Cur-It resin glue drys. There were a couple good ideas here but I ended up using the 'Ambroid white glue,' it dries very fast-Next I will lightly sand the wing sheeting and trim (per plans.)
I taped the 3/32' wing sheeting together, electing to use wide regular masking tape to hold them in place while the Ambroid Se-Cur-It resin glue drys. There were a couple good ideas here but I ended up using the 'Ambroid white glue,' it dries very fast-Next I will lightly sand the wing sheeting and trim (per plans.)
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From: Cottondale, AL
Hey!
Forget the pattern ship....
When ya gonna build that B-17?????

Hard to tell but it looks to be B-17D, like The Swoose. Where did you find those plans, anyway? All I see are F-G varaiants for sale...
(Nice wing skins by the way...I may loose the CA and give your method a shot on my big KAOS project this winter).
Regards,
PointMagu
"There I was, flat on my back..."
Forget the pattern ship....
When ya gonna build that B-17?????

Hard to tell but it looks to be B-17D, like The Swoose. Where did you find those plans, anyway? All I see are F-G varaiants for sale...
(Nice wing skins by the way...I may loose the CA and give your method a shot on my big KAOS project this winter).
Regards,
PointMagu
"There I was, flat on my back..."
#21
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Yes-----The Swoose------which is in storage I had the occassion to sit in the cocpit of the Swoose as it was stored out of doors in SilverHill Maryland when I last saw it and I wonder when Air and Space will get this one on display.. at this time no B-17 is on display at the Washington area Smithsonian museums[
]
]
#22
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Well I need to go to the LHS to get some 3/32 for the stab cores;mean while, I will leave the wing cores weighted for a couple more hours..
I like the first combo with a 91 FX greatly simplifies things as opposed to a tuned pipe buried in the fuselage as the design was intended....then again a long stroke swinging a 13x-- would be nice and the ship would have to trim out better as opposed to the side mounted exhaust on the O.S.91 FX I will have to search the RCU market if I decide on a tuned pipe running down a tunnel with in the fuselage and exiting to the rear of the canopy.
I like the first combo with a 91 FX greatly simplifies things as opposed to a tuned pipe buried in the fuselage as the design was intended....then again a long stroke swinging a 13x-- would be nice and the ship would have to trim out better as opposed to the side mounted exhaust on the O.S.91 FX I will have to search the RCU market if I decide on a tuned pipe running down a tunnel with in the fuselage and exiting to the rear of the canopy.
#24

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Looks great and I'me looking forward to your progress reports! Interesting that you use 3/32” balas on the wing. Are you planning a painted finish? I’ve always used 1/16” but if I plan on a painted finish I use epoxy to glue the wing skins on to keep the seams from showing under the paint. When I Monokote cover wings I use Dave Brown’s contact glue. Do you know if the Tigertail wing is an 18% root - 15% tip taper?
#25
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Looks great and I'me looking forward to your progress reports! Interesting that you use 3/32” balas on the wing. Are you planning a painted finish? I’ve always used 1/16” but if I plan on a painted finish I use epoxy to glue the wing skins on to keep the seams from showing under the paint. When I Monokote cover wings I use Dave Brown’s contact glue. Do you know if the Tigertail wing is an 18% root - 15% tip taper?
Looks great and I'me looking forward to your progress reports! Interesting that you use 3/32” balas on the wing. Are you planning a painted finish? I’ve always used 1/16” but if I plan on a painted finish I use epoxy to glue the wing skins on to keep the seams from showing under the paint. When I Monokote cover wings I use Dave Brown’s contact glue. Do you know if the Tigertail wing is an 18% root - 15% tip taper?


