I had some central Hobbies wheels so I will FINALLY cut /butcher the retract wells as I do not have a foam cutter yet.

LOL...I know what you mean about butchering wheel wells!

I finally broke down and bought a Weller pistol-grip soldering gun. I removed the tip and replaced it with 1/8th inch copper wire.

This wire was bent into a rectangle the exact width of my wells. Once I trimmed the skin away from my cutout pattern on the wing panels, I simply melted my way down to the proper depth and twisted the rectangle around in a full circle. In order not to melt too deep, I placed ply stops across the rectangle at my desired depth. This way, I wouldn't have to worry as I twisted the gun and wire around. I did this on my Kaos 90 and it produced terrific results.

I can't take credit for the idea, though. Wing Manufacturing had this hint included with a set of cores I picked up a few years back...

:-)

PM

Thanks I forgot what I once learned... have a Weller and tomorrow I will check my local Ace Hardware and check and see if they have the 1/8 copper wire- thanks for that-[8D]

This works good for me http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_39...10/key_/tm.htm partway down the page.

I managed to put down ,rather 'shut off,'my new Micro Soft Combat Flight Simulator 3
Battle For Europe

So I made it into my humble shop and did the set up for the strut length and about to silver solder the strut/axel assembly,now that it centered;centered being interesting because using my primitive techniques all is based on the retract mounts position[&o]

The time finally arrived and I did the retract installation ,in particular the wheel wells-I used an old method and it worked fine ,a bit more detail work and I can turn my attention to the tail wheel installation. The process appears below.

Turned the house inside out and could not find my Weller...

I managed the wheel wells and lined them with 1/64 plywood,which I still have to trim a bit so I can finally do some thing EASY:glassing the wing[8D] I installed the Spring Airs and installed a pair of Hangar 9 2-1/2" wheels I hope they hold up better than the 'custom ones,from C.H.'that I used on my last Tiger Tail IV, which would LOSE the tires occasionally on landing and there I be walking along the Flight line looking for the shed tire while some one taller and BIGGER followed me around looking too, because I was on his frequency...he was new to flying R/C and just HAD to fly!!!! LOL

Can not glass the wing with out the aileron install ,so I managed to lay out and install one aileron as pictured and will do the other side next building session- *minus the left and right aileron linkages; it seems 3 weeks ago I ordered some "Rocket City" hardware,to use for the aileron linkages 'on line' from Nelson products... went through the whole 'on line'ordering routine,got an order confirmation in my e-mail and (NO charge to myC.C.) and NO order shipped and here it is late March Geeeeeeeeeeeeez .[:@] I will pressume NELSON PRODUCTS is OUT of BUSINESS[:-] and see whats available else where

Got to the glassing stage and started with bottom left. It is so easy once you establish a techique and NO BODY WANTS TO DO EXCESS SANDING so I like the method I go with in most glassing jobs,that is pouring on a bead of resin chord wise and pull out a deck of cards and spread it on go slow giving the resin "a second or two "in order to impregnate the glass cloth and lay it on down . Remember to chech for puddles of resin and wrinkles...

The small foam paint rollers do a great job of spreading and soaking up resin if you wanted to try a new method in with your existing one. Can be used after or instead of the cards. Just a thought, that's all.

Mark

Thanks good infromation for all-

It was LATE when I did the second side and sure enough there was a puddle of epoxy but only just a spot and I managed to sand it off with out sandind away the glass cloth.

Gottta tell you R/C folks I'm happy with my system of application and minimal resin is used/wasted and thus low weight build up!

Hello all------

Well again I have heard of this method ,however, I achieve nearly complete impregnation (I've done better[8D])of the glass and >>>>>>>on to and into the 'balsa wood wing skins,' using New playing cards frequently replaced as you want to have a uniform pressure on the surface as you spread the line of mixed resin you poured along the section you dare try and glass before the resin sets up;for peace of mind common sense prevails:glass at temperatures not exceeding 75 degree (during the application process.) Now depending on environment you could well do the second easy and very quick coat of FTE Z Poxy Resin and quite possibly be priming/filling[:-] the same day. You know:got the energy so use it--

Hope this is useful as it takes time out from building and flying...

Richard, thanks for taking the time to share your glassing technique. I've glassed a couple of planes but always used a chip brush to spread the resin. I plan to try your playing card technique on my current project. Did I understand from an earlier post you dab up all excess resin with paper towels? Could you explain?
Mike.

hi mike
No just the playing cards. The neatness 'trick' is to watch as resin accumulates BEHIND the edge of the card,So while laying it down/spreading it out you have to manage that. Again when the card looses its flex wipe off the acumulated resin on the next new card and carry proceed,swiftly

Now the wing tip if you dare the card trick again does it for me... just flex the card to the curvature of the surface you are laying down-Lastly sight down your work like the barrel of a rifle and "skim off" any and ALL excess(should'nt be much.)

Last but not least ,if you can not resist or feel you need to: a paper towel or Mr. Whipple' and dab up any excess on the WING TIP ONLY,which will be all that os necessary and enen the compound curves of a wing tip are easily glassed using my adopted proceedure,that I heard or read some where some time.

I ran out of glass with just the top left wing panel to glass and after a internet search finally posted at www.rcwarbirds.com and got immediate replies it seems and using one of several recieved links for some light weight glass cloth sites went with one and will surly spread the word if the products good...[:-] the price, shipping cost and service certainly IS.

Also I meant to post some words and pictures of a technique I tried to ensure the 'fit' between the Tiger tail IVs fuselage and wing remain close,as in no /minimal gap. The technique I used was simple take the fuselage as the reference to cut and trim a piece of WAXED PAPER to fit the fuselages wing saddle EXACTLY. Next go glass your wing (helps to have enough glass to do both sides of the wing) un like me ...anyway once you have glassed the top wing surfaces wait for the 'Epoxy finishing/surfacing resin to become "just a bit tacky to the touch,'NOW invert the model (more fun in flight) and lay down your pre cut wax paper " fitting along the out side perimeter of the wing saddle," now proceed to bolt on the wing ensuring the bolts are tight, now flipping the airframe back over should reveal no protruding wax paper past the wing saddle...Alow resin to cure and un bolt wing.

To be continued

I'm getting increasingly intent on getting this project on the tarmac and the O.S. 91FX opened up and staying out of the trees with this one... I Have missed flying this category of R/C aircraft---what can I say

I finished glassing and have just about finished applying the second coat,then I can skuff every thing up and shoot a couple filler/primer coats (not sure if I want to go with my existing two part epoxy primer go with a two part urethane primmer that has served me well-

I lucked into the hardware I needed to finish up this project;now all I need is 4 high end JR servos I will go with a couple 8611As for pull pull rudder and and single center mounted 8611A with C.F. push rod set up from www.Centralhobbies.com- handles the elevator (worked great in the first TTIV.)...before I sifted it through the trees what a SOUND[X(] ,for wing mounted aileron servos any thoughts people.[:-]

Well 'Finishing resin is curing overnight and then a bit of out of doors sanding...

Well Geeeeeeeeez the weather turned out to be good flying weather,while I spent part of yesterday afternoon sanding the entire airframe so now the glass weave is filled 99% and only a couple more ounces of weight added with that second coat of full strength FTE Z POXY Finish Resin,sparing me much less spraying multiple filler coats,to get to that "Orange peel finish coat LOL