I can't wait either and now to make things more interesting I called my LHS regarding the 91FX and he informed me O>S> has a new TWO STROKE 120 the 120AX I think and it is supposed to fit where the 91 FX went !

Looks like it! From the Tower website http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLGJ0&P=0

Ground clearance for the 15x10 Propeller might be a problem though!

Not to mention room for the bigger fuel tank that will be required.

Well its back to the 91FX as I remember prop clearance was minimal the tank had just enough room so I'm bailing on the 120 for this build [8D]

Any updates?

Richard

I hadn't checked this thread for a while and forgot I had posted regarding ProBond.

It's as idiot proof as the epoxy method. Actually, it might be a little safer. If you get a place where you are a little light on the glue, it will still foam and make a good bond. It's lighter than epoxy and makes a bond that will actually penetrate the foam. I can' think of a reason I'd go back to epoxy.

Waiting on an OS91FX on special order then will install the fire wall and install the stab.

Great, thanks for the update

As soon as we get the 91 FX I will get the fire wall glued in and then work out the retracts. I know the last one could of used having the mains closer to the leading edge so I will change that on this TTIV plus add a LARGER rudder. again controlled with the Dons Hobby shop Kevlar pull pull that seemed to work great on the last one ;especially when I added good digitals to the flight surfaces[8D]

Hello Ed I"chickened," out maybe I will try your method on my Mallory Laser kit that Bill Hinnant gave me a while back-- here is a picture of its glass fuselage..Beautiful workmanship to say the least.

Some up date photos what we got is the necessary material tack glued W/5 Min. Devcon and ready to be carved ,sanded and hollowed. Golly!!! and I just cleaned my little but nice shop[8D]

Looking very excellent but be careful with the balsa carving! You could cut the finger on your left hand!

HAZEL was not home so I washed dishes and a knife lurking about got me[sm=lol.gif][sm=rolleyes.gif]

You are a good man Richard!

That Tigartail is nice. I love the line of the fuse. Kind of looks like an old MK T-Bird.. you think? I see why you were so set on building another.


DM

I loved how pattern was evolving and then turn around entered the scene with the new over taking the old... Though I chose not to compete in either event (you have to be 110%) I hated[:@]to see pattern go I mean there is some thing about a machine with such a wide speed envelope. I mean 1/2 roll turn burn and center your second roll inverted at the judges perspective and go zooming out of 'the box for another pass'[sm=thumbup.gif] Wow.....just like Jersey Jim once did with his all silver Banshee at an East Coast pattern meet 1971 I think..I'll guess I can call it a flash bulb memory

I have an old MK T-Bird kit. Do you guys have any info on the date of this planes release, history, or flying behavior? I've never had the pleasure of seeing one fly, but I love the lines of the plane and picked one up quite some years ago. I found it in my storage when I went to pick up my Atlanta! Christmas all over again!


David

Dave -I know MK was producing in the early 1970s a large variety of hand cut balsa and Ply pattern designs some well known and some not though very competitive appearing for their time.

Been finishing a sport scale subject (detailing can be lengthly--) I will be doing some serious carving and sanding on the Tiger Tail IVs flying surfaces shortly;which reminds me [sm=idea.gif]I need to order a Tru Turn spinner from my LHS for the O.S.91FX engine install.

Well now that I have the thread I was looking to post on here are some pictures of the wing tips taking shape and making a mess of the shop but what the heck its BALSA[8D]

More progress please note there are two threads going on this build so I will post on this one only .

Got the O.S.91FX wanted the new 120 but the 91FX will be good I'm sure.

To mount a glow engine in an epoxy glass fuselage like mine you first start with getting the engine inside the nose)-to do that do not sand the seams on the upper nose just yet as you will use this as a "left and right,"measuring reference as you slowly mark and cut.. mark and cut.. UNTIL the engine slips in the fuselage. Think this through as you proceed to position the engine mount on the engine then mark the engine position on the mount remove the engine and mount from the fuselage so you can drill the mount for the engine once thats done tap the engine I went with 6-32 x 1 1/2" socket head bolts which are the same size and length I will use shortly to mount the engine mount to the firewall but thats the next step which begins with placing the engine in the nose---> position the engine mount from the INSIDE of the fuselage and THEN-install your prop spinner with a 1/32 to a 1/16" thickness ply wood spacer situated between the fuselage nose ring and spinners ' back plate.' With the fuselage supported vertically see pictures..center the spinner on the nose ring and tack glue the plwood spacer,which now is an integral part of your engine spinner and back plate assembly! So with this done your engine is in the intended thrust settings of the model in this case my Tiger Tail IV. and you are ready to cut and fit cut and fit cut and fit till the Ply wood firewall fits flush with the rear engine mount. did not confuse any one did I [8D]

The firewall with engine less muffler is installed and the 30 minute epoxy adding just a touch of chopped glass to the mixture with a 30 minute cure time ,I decded to make some minor (thrust changes,)while the 30 minute is curing and hopefully based on my prevous flying TT IV it might help in dialing it in.

Great thread Richard, I have a old fibreglass fuselage at home with no wings or cowl. I thought build thread might impart some ideas on how to complete the plane. See thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_23...tm.htm#2364373
I guess there are already formers infront and behind the wing section on your fuselage? Any information can help.

Many thanks Jp I checked out your thread.:the cutting is tedious at times but goes fast whether you do a good or not so good job.