Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
#27
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ORIGINAL: spbyrum
Richard
Please excuse my laziness, but if you use Elmer's ProBond, you don't need to glue the seems. True and tape the pieces together for the skin, spread the ProBond on as you would epoxy. Spray a little water on the core. Put the whole thing together and weight it. The ProBond foams when kicked with a fine spray of water. It foams into any voids between beads in the foam. It also foams into the seams in the sheeting. Block sand them after curing.
ProBond does not delaminate. Several years ago, I lost a Curare in Bowling Green, KY. Dumb thumbs directed in earthward wide open. Lots of things broke, but none of the sheeting let go. Even where the wing broke, the sheeting was still firmly attached.
Richard
Please excuse my laziness, but if you use Elmer's ProBond, you don't need to glue the seems. True and tape the pieces together for the skin, spread the ProBond on as you would epoxy. Spray a little water on the core. Put the whole thing together and weight it. The ProBond foams when kicked with a fine spray of water. It foams into any voids between beads in the foam. It also foams into the seams in the sheeting. Block sand them after curing.
ProBond does not delaminate. Several years ago, I lost a Curare in Bowling Green, KY. Dumb thumbs directed in earthward wide open. Lots of things broke, but none of the sheeting let go. Even where the wing broke, the sheeting was still firmly attached.
I must try this method but how "IDOT proof is it?"
Thanks again Steve.
P.S. still have the origional Tigertail to do; thanks for the favor on that one..
#28
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Speaking of stab here are some Pics. showing the stabs getting their 3/8x1/2 leading edges adhered with Ambroid SE-CUR-IT which I like what can we say its a choice..So the leading edges after some prep work was completed to ensure the balsa skin L.E. was first razor planed and then bar sanded to ensure a smooth flush surface to adhere the leading edges. Finally..the sheeted cores with leading edges added were "RETURNED" to there respective shucks-[8D]
#33
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I trimmed the cores and added the leading edges for both the stab and wing. When the glue dried I rough sanded the leading edges on the wings and after checking the respective Root and Tip for a uniform airfoil (there is NO template but a drawing pretty much covers leading edge contour)
Please note for the "rough carving I used the wood plane pictured however "skilled modelers out there have done it with an Xacto #26...loaded in the medium handle another choice
Please note for the "rough carving I used the wood plane pictured however "skilled modelers out there have done it with an Xacto #26...loaded in the medium handle another choice
#34
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I used T shaped Aluminum sanding bar's in one, foot two and three foot lengths with #80 grit 3Mtrimite sand paper attached ---They made short work of contouring the leading edge;on the wing and stabs
I then matched the left and right panels together at the ROOT did a bit more trimming and taped the UPPER right wing panel correctly positioned in its LOWER "styrofoam shuck"..yea thats the word-- and then I proceeded to tape both UPRIGHT left and right wing panels into their respective shucks----and will now measure, mark and then CUT the ailerons from their respective wing cores .
I then matched the left and right panels together at the ROOT did a bit more trimming and taped the UPPER right wing panel correctly positioned in its LOWER "styrofoam shuck"..yea thats the word-- and then I proceeded to tape both UPRIGHT left and right wing panels into their respective shucks----and will now measure, mark and then CUT the ailerons from their respective wing cores .
#35
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Ailerons pictured as cut from cores --then measure 1/4" forward and cut again for cap on wing then repeat process for ailerons 1/4" facing as well. The plans seem to show a taper on the aileron leading edge 'cap.' HOWEVER there is a better way right?[sm=idea.gif]
#38
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What a mess I used a 'Masterairscrew wood plan and then carefully bar sanded the length of the leading edges to the contour previously pictured on the Ail&Elev.sanded the Aileron and elevator leading edges. NOW I need #50 grit to do the inside radius to the stabilizer T.E. and the outboard trailing edgeT.E. for the wing
#39
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The control surfaces's leading edges are rounded and will be fitted for Robart hinges once I have "sanded in" the trailing edges both wing and stab and now the stab halves is epoxed together and some more fit and finish for the elevators and ailerons I will join the wings .
#40
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What a fantastic response to my ancient pattern ship thread here [sm=lol.gif] please post your suggestions for building and setting up YOUR glass and foam '80s something pattern design-'
I once built a then brand new Phoenix 7 with a lot of help and was advised to do the control surfaces as pictured here being the "grooved out"wing T.E. where it accommodates the ailerons ROUNDED leading edge. I might ad the process of rounding the ailerons L.E.,makes for lots of balsa shavings and sanding dust :thats balsa dust..
I once built a then brand new Phoenix 7 with a lot of help and was advised to do the control surfaces as pictured here being the "grooved out"wing T.E. where it accommodates the ailerons ROUNDED leading edge. I might ad the process of rounding the ailerons L.E.,makes for lots of balsa shavings and sanding dust :thats balsa dust..
#43
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All worked out good on this Ail.&Elev. modification indeed well worth the 'balsa dust' the simple trick is to counter sink and then provide clearance for the hinge line pivot point. A Dremel makes quick work of this providing the needed 'clearance' so the Robart hinge can pivot about.. control surfaces LEADING EDGE

#45
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I cut out the elevators at 45 degrees per plan. Well I guess I will glue on the Wing and stab tips more on that process shortly-So now I'M Running out of things to do.. its time to spend $$$ a new O.S.91 FX; my first one with newly replaced front and rear crank shaft bearings found its may into a tree . Yes I'm a so called tree hugger but given an Axe that evening and I might just have cut down that tree down..[:@]
#46
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The elevators were cut to their correct length and fitted to the stab.Next I will add the joiner for the 2 elevator halves that will be a bit of work to achieve the correct 'leading edge shape,'before I epoxy it to the left and right elevator and then drill Per plans for the elevators music wire or threaded 4/40 rod for the elevator C.F. push rod from Central Hobbies
#48
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Hi yes I did as a matter of fact on my "TigerTail ,"built from M.A.N. plans I incorporated dual elevators but on Ron C. s last Tigertail design the plans shows one push rod and aside from any adjustments at the rear linkage it worked fine AND survived the crash that totaled it. I decided to build another Tiger Tail like your dads (nice picture) and got the plans from a friend with the S.P.A. ---what the heck here is a picture of my TigerTails dual elevator linkage it even has a 4 bolt wing .I don't fly it much any more as its 20 years old and way heavy with its re paint a couple years back . Again nice photos and if you really want the original Tiger Tail I can see about giving the source of the plans(no longer available from Model Airplane News...)
#49
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I trimmed the elevator assembly
Really!! It was a lot of carving/Wood Planning and sanding to get the elevators leading edge to rotate on an axis with the hinge pin in the very center..I know elementary Watson well still a lot of extra work that I think will be worth while--certainly from aesthetics stand point. The GP Extra was a lot of fun New Years Eve.. 5 flights each 8-9 minutes of so into the flight and dead stick practice AGAIN. I traced the problem to an "un corked stopper..."[sm=confused.gif][sm=eek.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=tongue.gif][8D]
Really!! It was a lot of carving/Wood Planning and sanding to get the elevators leading edge to rotate on an axis with the hinge pin in the very center..I know elementary Watson well still a lot of extra work that I think will be worth while--certainly from aesthetics stand point. The GP Extra was a lot of fun New Years Eve.. 5 flights each 8-9 minutes of so into the flight and dead stick practice AGAIN. I traced the problem to an "un corked stopper..."[sm=confused.gif][sm=eek.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=tongue.gif][8D]



