Genesis ARF build, glow version
#176
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The Genesis do not come setup for Dual Servos anymore, at least mine didnt.
Go back and read pages 2-3 of this thread, I have my complete elevator system installation with pictures that will answer your questions..
Check out this thread it explains everything about how to find the proper exit hole location
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3525232/tm.htm]Install DEPS in a painted fuse[/link]
Go back and read pages 2-3 of this thread, I have my complete elevator system installation with pictures that will answer your questions..

Check out this thread it explains everything about how to find the proper exit hole location
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3525232/tm.htm]Install DEPS in a painted fuse[/link]
#177
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From: , ITALY
Mike, thank you for your reply.
On my plane, I already have the servos installed on the stabs, I just wanted to know the best way to fix the extensions.
Anyone has some ideas?
On my plane, I already have the servos installed on the stabs, I just wanted to know the best way to fix the extensions.
Anyone has some ideas?
#178
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OH,,,
I misunderstood.. find the thinnest lightest paper you can (like adding machine paper, comes in a roll about 2" wide, get it at an office supply store) and just roll it into as long of a tube as you need. Once you roll it out tape the ends or and or tack glue the tube with a little CA along its length to make it hold its shape and then run your servo extensions through it... This is a 2 minute project.
OR, you can just use clear packing tape and tape the extensions down tight to the wall of the fuselage. They wont move at all and it should last forever. This is what I do when I have tail servos... Its very light, works really well and will last forever..... You just have to be patient and get creative with long balsa sticks and tape to get it back in there and stick it down. Most pattern guys are creative at working with long spare balsa sticks or dowels and using them to find ways to work way back inside of the fuselage.
I misunderstood.. find the thinnest lightest paper you can (like adding machine paper, comes in a roll about 2" wide, get it at an office supply store) and just roll it into as long of a tube as you need. Once you roll it out tape the ends or and or tack glue the tube with a little CA along its length to make it hold its shape and then run your servo extensions through it... This is a 2 minute project.
OR, you can just use clear packing tape and tape the extensions down tight to the wall of the fuselage. They wont move at all and it should last forever. This is what I do when I have tail servos... Its very light, works really well and will last forever..... You just have to be patient and get creative with long balsa sticks and tape to get it back in there and stick it down. Most pattern guys are creative at working with long spare balsa sticks or dowels and using them to find ways to work way back inside of the fuselage.
#179
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From: , ITALY
Mike.... really thank you very much for your hints!!!
Now my extensions are taped down against fuselage, with about 5 pieces of strong tape. Its is not very wide though, and I noticed it starts to come loose (I'm still building it, not flying yet!!!).
I'll give a try with the your clear tape method, actually I got a quite large one that can do the trick: the basic problem is that it seems they don't fix well against fiberglass... but perhaps the large one will do!
Thank you again Mike, and good luck with your genesis!!!
Ps: It would be good to see a video of yours with the Genesis...
Now my extensions are taped down against fuselage, with about 5 pieces of strong tape. Its is not very wide though, and I noticed it starts to come loose (I'm still building it, not flying yet!!!).
I'll give a try with the your clear tape method, actually I got a quite large one that can do the trick: the basic problem is that it seems they don't fix well against fiberglass... but perhaps the large one will do!
Thank you again Mike, and good luck with your genesis!!!
Ps: It would be good to see a video of yours with the Genesis...
#180
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I use 3M brand 2" wide clear postage tape.. Well I actually am using a roll of 3M Pharmaceutical packing tape that I got from SWLCharm last year (thanks again Eddie
) I use if for taping the hinges on my foamies and also as prescribed for this use. But 3M packing tape works about as well...
Im planning on making a video soon, we make 3D videos all of the time just goofing around.. Once my friend gets back from St Louis after Christmas we will find a sunny day and make a video of the masters pattern and post it here.. Dont let me forget!
) I use if for taping the hinges on my foamies and also as prescribed for this use. But 3M packing tape works about as well... Im planning on making a video soon, we make 3D videos all of the time just goofing around.. Once my friend gets back from St Louis after Christmas we will find a sunny day and make a video of the masters pattern and post it here.. Dont let me forget!
#182
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Well, Im no Chip Hyde (thats a gross understatement)[8D] but I think I can give you a good idea of how the plane looks in the air. Gimme a couple of weeks... Im surprised more people arent making pattern vids... with Windows Movie maker there is nothing to it...
#183
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From: , ITALY
I will try the clear postage tape! I have a 3M clear tape that I love, I have used it for building foamy hinges too, and it is PERFECT: there is not a single corner that pulled up!
#184
Not to hijack your thread Mike, hope you don't mind me posting this link. I agree there should be more pattern vids out there... to the average flying they can be boring, but I think us pattern freaks could learn a lot from them. The link below is a video I shot this year at a contest of Scott Covey.
http://media.putfile.com/PoeticMasters
Would love to see others!
http://media.putfile.com/PoeticMasters
Would love to see others!
#185
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No way guy,, I like folks to interact in any thread I start, as you can tell Im a chatterbox, I like talking to people about things I enjoy doing...
By the way, Nice flying!
Thank you for sharing the link..
We ought to start a thread called "post your pattern videos" or something and get a library started...[8D]
By the way, Nice flying!
Thank you for sharing the link..
We ought to start a thread called "post your pattern videos" or something and get a library started...[8D]
#187
It was a nice flight, better than the shoddy camera work showed. To my defense, it was the first time I tried to film a sequence, next time I need to play with the focus settings. Scott does fly pretty well, luckily for me and others in Masters next year he's moving up.
I think it would be a great idea to post these videos for fun and coaching...
I think it would be a great idea to post these videos for fun and coaching...
#188

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From: CebuCebu, PHILIPPINES
Hi guys! I am building my Genesis ARF and have one quick question. The firwall is made of balsa laminated with glass. I know that ply will have to be installed for the blind nuts to hols to. But do I have to install hardwood dowelsall the way through the the firewall so the balsa will not be crushed or is the firewall stone enough as it is so all I have to install are plywood plates for the locknuts? Mike, what did you do with yours? Thanks a lot.
Jayjay
Jayjay
#189
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Jay,,,
I made a hardwood ring out of 3/32 ply and lightened it up pretty good. I think there is a pic of it earlier in the thread... . I just epoxied it to the backside of the firewall when I finally installed it and snugged up the socket head bolts in the blind nuts.. I used a lockwasher in the hyde mount and I didnt over tighten, just good and snug. I didnt at all get the sense that the firewall was crushed even a little.... I used a T handle socket head wrench to tighten them and it has worked out well through approximately 30 flights. I wouldnt think it would hurt to install a few dowels the thinkness of the balsa around the perimeter of where the shim will ride on the firewall, but I really dont think its necessary if you dont overtighten the motor mount bolts.
I made a hardwood ring out of 3/32 ply and lightened it up pretty good. I think there is a pic of it earlier in the thread... . I just epoxied it to the backside of the firewall when I finally installed it and snugged up the socket head bolts in the blind nuts.. I used a lockwasher in the hyde mount and I didnt over tighten, just good and snug. I didnt at all get the sense that the firewall was crushed even a little.... I used a T handle socket head wrench to tighten them and it has worked out well through approximately 30 flights. I wouldnt think it would hurt to install a few dowels the thinkness of the balsa around the perimeter of where the shim will ride on the firewall, but I really dont think its necessary if you dont overtighten the motor mount bolts.
#194
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I didnt save mine. It was pretty easy to make. I just cut a circle and then bored the hold for the nosering. Then I just used my belt sander to whittle away at the top and bottom until I had a perfect fit. Once you get the fit you want then you can trim away the excess on the sides so that it doesnt show in the cheeks. Once I had it built I painted mine black, you cant even see it in there.
It has held up perfectly to the 1.60DZ's lope really well so far..
There are some pictures of the general shape at the beginning of this thread.
It has held up perfectly to the 1.60DZ's lope really well so far..
There are some pictures of the general shape at the beginning of this thread.
#195

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Your answer actually tells me a lot, Mike.
I made a removeable section shaped roughly like a Central Hobbies or Dave Brown nose ring and I was working on a template for the fixed portion. The problem is that if you put the fixed portion far enough forward to not show in the air intakes you will need some standoffs or something to reach the removeable section. The whole thing wouldn't be sturdy enough IMHO.
I'll take the shape in your photo and see if I can cut clearance for my Webra's carb. I usually make a balsa mock-up before cutting out real wood.
I made a removeable section shaped roughly like a Central Hobbies or Dave Brown nose ring and I was working on a template for the fixed portion. The problem is that if you put the fixed portion far enough forward to not show in the air intakes you will need some standoffs or something to reach the removeable section. The whole thing wouldn't be sturdy enough IMHO.
I'll take the shape in your photo and see if I can cut clearance for my Webra's carb. I usually make a balsa mock-up before cutting out real wood.
#196
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Oh, probably stating the obvious here but I had the motor mount and motor installed and the actual central hobbies nosering mount screwed to the nose ring frame while I shaped it. I also had everything installed when I glued it in so I could get perfect centering.
My nosering sits about 1/4" back from the inside of the nose, there are 1/4 balsa spacers at 2 points at the top and bottom that align the nosering properly against the front of the fuse and set the distance back. I used a mixture of 20 minute epoxy and microballoons to secure it in there. Its not coming out, ever. And it came out light. [8D]
Once it was all done I could not get the Central Hobbies nose ring in and out since its width is a little greater than the hole on the fuse and 1/4 wasnt enough to tilt it to slide it out,,,, so I just dremeled out on each side just enough to give it a clean exit.
My nosering sits about 1/4" back from the inside of the nose, there are 1/4 balsa spacers at 2 points at the top and bottom that align the nosering properly against the front of the fuse and set the distance back. I used a mixture of 20 minute epoxy and microballoons to secure it in there. Its not coming out, ever. And it came out light. [8D]
Once it was all done I could not get the Central Hobbies nose ring in and out since its width is a little greater than the hole on the fuse and 1/4 wasnt enough to tilt it to slide it out,,,, so I just dremeled out on each side just enough to give it a clean exit.
#197

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After going through a couple of evenings of hell, I came up with my own nose ring. Since I was dealing with a 2-stroke, I had my own set of problems and the nose ring for a 4-stroke wouldn't fit. Anyway, here are the results.
The two pieces are made from 1/8" fiberglass-covered end-grain balsa, but plywood would work just fine. The bumper is made from a 113mm of medium fuel tubing split lengthwise.
The front of the holder is pushed right up against the front of the air intake hole on the left side. On the right side, it's back 1/8" and the gap is filled with scrap. After smoothing down with a Dremel and some sandpaper, it really doesn't look too bad.
If anyone has scaling problems with the drawings, the nose ring is 2.75x2.1 inches and the holder is 3.8 inches wide.
Excuse the hacked out holes for the screw access. I didn't have a chance to clean it up before I took the picture!
-Ron
The two pieces are made from 1/8" fiberglass-covered end-grain balsa, but plywood would work just fine. The bumper is made from a 113mm of medium fuel tubing split lengthwise.
The front of the holder is pushed right up against the front of the air intake hole on the left side. On the right side, it's back 1/8" and the gap is filled with scrap. After smoothing down with a Dremel and some sandpaper, it really doesn't look too bad.
If anyone has scaling problems with the drawings, the nose ring is 2.75x2.1 inches and the holder is 3.8 inches wide.
Excuse the hacked out holes for the screw access. I didn't have a chance to clean it up before I took the picture!
-Ron
#198

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Mike-
How's your landing gear block holding up?
The kit has three pieces of light-ply you have to laminate to make the gear plate. It looks like the same setup as your ARF.
I was going to buy some composite gear for it, but the aluminum struts in the kit look way too cool to discard for the minor weight penality, so right now I plan on using them.
I'm wondering if I need to beef that plate area since I sometimes fly out of some pretty rough fields.
-Ron
How's your landing gear block holding up?
The kit has three pieces of light-ply you have to laminate to make the gear plate. It looks like the same setup as your ARF.
I was going to buy some composite gear for it, but the aluminum struts in the kit look way too cool to discard for the minor weight penality, so right now I plan on using them.
I'm wondering if I need to beef that plate area since I sometimes fly out of some pretty rough fields.
-Ron
#199

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From: CebuCebu, PHILIPPINES
Hi Ron,
On my YS160 powered ARF Genesis, the landing gear plate is just fine. I fly out of a rough asphalt field. My friend had a dead stick on his Genesis and it landed in a huge mound of dirt. The carbon fiber gear broke but the plate held up fine. Hope this helps.
Jayjay
On my YS160 powered ARF Genesis, the landing gear plate is just fine. I fly out of a rough asphalt field. My friend had a dead stick on his Genesis and it landed in a huge mound of dirt. The carbon fiber gear broke but the plate held up fine. Hope this helps.
Jayjay
#200
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Funny you should ask. Saturday I had a kickback on startup and didnt realize that it had slightly loosened the prop. As I made the downwind turn the engine sputtered and then died before I had gained much airspeed. Long story short. I had to make a real quick turn into the wind with no airspeed and ended up setting it down pretty hard on the landing gear. It wasnt a pancake but it was a pretty hard fall from about 3'. It broke the CF gear on 1 side but ,,, heres the point... The landing gear block survived without any problem! I was quite pleased considering it could have been a lot worse.


