When installing F2, use a thin bead of epoxy. At the same time F2 is being glued, install the 1/4" gear block as well. It bonds better if it all goes in at once.

Let this cure thoroughly before continuing.


Before you install the firewall, or even pull the front sides together, you must install the flooring. On the Glow version, it's just pieces of 1/8" 4-6 lb balsa cut to shape and installed cross grain. just use a good bead of thick CA, sand to fit. Install the floor all the way back to F6.

If you're building an electric version, the floor between the gear block and F-3 is a piece of 1/4" carbon nomex with lightening holes. See the attached pics for the lightening holes for the electric version.

After the flooring is in, pull the front end together and glue in the firewwall using slow cure epoxy. This is an odd bend, and you may notice the fuse sides tend to want to bow out slightly behind F2 and F3. Don't freak out, this is normal and doesn't matter. You'll see why later.

Note: the picture on the right with all the holes in the bottom is the electric version. Don't do this on a glow plane.

Now is a good time to install the fuselage bottom.

Begin by cutting back the front at about a 22 degree angle. A little less is ok, a little more is not.

This might seem a little tricky, but just set it flat so the front end is barely hanging over the table and sand with a large flat block.

Now install the belly with polyurethane glue. Use masking tape and T pins to pull everything tight. The sides do not line up perfectly with the fuselage edge at this point, they are about 1/64" narrower all the way down. This will provide a little bit of a ledge, and after it's dry, you'll sand it to a nice transitional curve. Take your time, do it right and straight. Take great care not to pull or twist the fuse out of square when installing this piece.

While you're at it, go ahead and make the end caps. just lay a piece of 1/8" balsa cross grain and using a sharpie, transfer the outline. Cut it larger and leave it that way, and glue in place with polyurethane glue. pin it, tape it, let it dry fully.

Hi Everyone

when do we get pictures from all the other builders making the Black Magic ? Im sure there are lots of you out there.

Thanks

Troy

I'm pretty curious too [8D]

But then, it's only been available for a couple of weeks, so I'm guessing it'll be a while.

I'm going flying, but I'll post some more stuff tonight.

-Mike

Hi Everyone

I recieved my plans today !!! Just awesome more than happy with the design and quality to the plans. Thanks Mike you did a great job. Now I will start building this weekend

Thanks

Troy

Does the kit including plans composites and foam core inclute every thing to finish the kit?

you get the foam cores the plans, and composites, you furnish the wood to complete

It's the essentials, basically. Plans, cowling, canopy, belly pan, foam cores for wings, stab, fin/rudder, upper and lower turtle deck. That's why it's called a "short kit". I'd love to make full kits, but that's a ways off for me.

All of the templates for the wood parts (and the foam for that matter) are provided.

You have to get the wood, wing/stab tubes, hardware etc. Providing wood for this kit would be impossible right now, I can't buy that much, that light at once. I'd have to stockpile or bribe somone in Ecuador.

It's a custom home built plane, like the Typhoon or Patriot. But it's very modern and competetive. And big.

-Mike

Between the firewall and F2, on the fuselage sides, you need to add a layer of vertical grain 1/8" balsa. Cut oversized, sand to fit, and glue in with CA.

Now make the lite ply piece for the bottom between the firewall and F2. This piece takes a little patience to get it right, but take your time. Since it's at an angle, it's going to be a PITA to get it in. It should be very tight if it fits right. It should rest on top of the 1/4" stringers and butt up nicely against both the firewall and F2. Glue this in with epoxy.

Add pieces of 1/4" triangle stock to the junction of the firewall and the fuse sides, and on the firewall running crossways where the top lite ply piece will sit. Glue these in with epoxy as well.

Now make your top piese of lite ply, this sits right on top of the stringers and should also fit nicely up against the firewall and F2. Remember, the tighter something fits (without bowing or bending the structure) the stronger AND lighter it will be.

While all of this is curing, if you're using a DEPS, install this now. There's really nothing to this except keep it straight. I use the etched teflon sheaths from CST and they glue great and don't have as much friction as the ones that come with the DEPS. (I use the outers in the DEPS as an antenna tube). Just be sure they are glued well where they exit the fuse, and use pieces of 1/4" balsa to glue them between the formers as shown.

The exits are right at F9, a little over an inch from the fuse bottom.

Now is a good time to go ahead and mount yoru antenna tube. I use canopy glue for this.

Grab your masking tape and T pins again.

First, get the turtle deck, and make sure the front surface/edge is sanded flush.

Make a mark on the top center of the turtle deck 2 1/2" back from the front edge.

Mark the angle with a flexible ruler, giving yourself a little leeway. make sure you keep the overall length at the bottom/front, don't cut any overall length off the turtle deck.

Now using a large, flat sanding block, sand this face flat to the marks. Set it on a table and don't let it squat and spread out.

Make marks exactly 3" behind the FRONT EDGE of F4. These are the marks you will align the front bottom edges with.

The rear face should also be sanded flush, and if you did everything right, it should be either aligned with F9 or slightly forward of this point. you're good to go.

Now glue it on with polyurethane glue, using masking tape and T pins. Again leave a slight edge about 1/64" so you can sand a nice curve to it. Any more and the fuselage will get thin, any less and it'll just look blocky.

Go ahead and make the front face out of 1/8" lite ply, and the rear out of 1/8" balsa. They should be oversized, glue on with polyurethane glue (I love this stuff).

This part kind of sucks. There's really no way around it, it's just tedious.

Sand the turtle deck face to size, stop when you reach flush with the balsa sheeting.

install the top formers at F3,4 and 5. Watch your stringer slot heigth here, the bottom of the stringer should be 1 1/4" from the top of the fuse.

Lay the stringer into the slots and let it extend past the face of the turtle deck. Make sure everything is straight and level, then mark the turtle deck so about 1 1/4" of stringer extends into the turtle deck. using blades and files, cut into the side of the turtle deck. The stringer width apart is not so critical, and can vary a bit depending upon how your sheeting turned out (it can be a little narrow or a little wider, it doesn't matter). But cut the stringer slot into the facing so that the outer edge of the stringer is slightly under 1/8" inside of the outer skin/face at the turtle deck.

Gently and carefully sand the top former stringer slots so that you have a nice gradual curve in the stringer from F4 to the turtle deck. It should be a little rounded, but not sticking WAY out.

Glue in the stringers from the firewall back to the turtle deck, extending the stringers into the slots you cut in the turtle deck. Use Polyurethane glue at the turtle deck, CA everywhere else. You may have to make a relief cut into the stinger at F2 so it makes the sharp bend downward to the firewall.

Let this dry completely.

Now take a sanding block and carefully sand the stringers and fuse top former sides so that you have an angled flat surfrace to glue the sheeting to.

The sides of the top formers at the bottom shoule be just inside the outer surface of the fuselage side so you can later sand a nice curve into it.

Now glue reinforcement plates to the front side of the top of F2 (the curved piece). This is where the canopy pins will insert. I make mine out of 1/16" phenolic, but 1/8" AC ply will work too.

Now set the angle using the top stringer that runs from F2T to the top of the firewall. Glue on the top of F2 using thickened epoxy. You need to sand a slight angle on the rear of the top of F2 so you have something to glue to. Remember keep paper towels handy, and remove the excess glue.

Wow, don't know why those came out so large. Good detail though! [8D]

Now make and install the side sheeting pieces from the firewall to the turtle deck. Lay in a 1/8" piece of balsa at the face of the turtle deck so you have something to glue to. I use a combination of CA and wood glue for this.

When everything is dry, install the remaining stringers from the firewall to F2. using a long sanding block, gently sand this curve so your sheeting will lay down nice and flat.

Now comes the nasty part....stick sheeting.

Cut 8" strips of 1/8" balsa, about 1/4" wide.

This is an excersise in patience and persistance.

What I do is mix up some slow cure epoxy and dab it on the firewall.

Using a long flat sanding block, gently sand a slight angle into the strips lengthswise where they will be glued to each other. You'll have to practice this a little if you've never done it, but once you get the hang of it, it's a piece of cake.

Use wood glue to attach the strips to each other, laying them on the epoxy at the firewall, and CA to bond them to the stringers and formers. Sounds complicated, but it isn't once you actually get into doing it.

When you get a little over halfway to the top on both sides, you'll have to start tapering the strips slightly so you don't havea large "V" gap when they meet up.

just keep plugging along, and frequently reach inside and wipe up the excess glue on the underside with a paper towel. Do it in stages if you have to. take your time.

Alternatively, you can wet a piece of 1/8" and form it....but on this particular application, I didn't have much luck with it, so I kept doing it this way.

Hi Everyone

Here is a tip for curving the balsa I got from Bryan Hebert. Brush the balsa to be formed with amonia and water and then tape it to a curve of similiar shape lt it try and it takes the shape better. It actually works I did it on the Quest

Thanks

Troy

Wing/stab tubes

Now is a good time to cut and glue in the tube sockets.

First, cut the wing sockets so you have a 7" section in the center, and 2 pieces of equal length (about 11 1/2" or so). Don't cut any more length off the 2 equal pieces than you have to.

Now cut the stab tube socket so you have one piece about 1 1/8", and then cut the remaining piece exactly in half.

make end caps for the sockets out of lite ply. use a compass, or whatever and then sand to shape so it fits snugly inside the end of the tube socket, flush.

Glue in the wing socket end caps with 5 minute epoxy, and the stab socket caps with thick CA.

Run a wing tube through the wing with a piece of sticky back 150 grit sandpaper to make sure everything clears about 1/8" beyond the false rib. Work it a little if you have to, it's great if it's tight...if it's sort of floppy, it'll be heavy and out of alignment. Only do enough for the tube to clear the rib while twisting.

Do the same with the stab socket hole. Check your measurements to make sure you're engaged through the false rib.

Use a very thin layer of laminating resin, applied to the socket. tape an acid brush to the end of a stick, piece of carbon rod, whatever and make sure you go in and put some resin on that false rib. But only the false rib area, not the foam between the root and rib.

Now insert the tube sockets while twisting until you're sure they're stuck in past the false rib about 1/8" or slightly more. Less is ungood.

Wipe the excess from around the tube thoroughly. you're only interested in bonding the tube socket to the alse rib and root rib, any more is wasteful and heavy. What you applied to the socket is plenty; just a very thin layer is enough to get a great bond.

Let this cure overnight.

Yep, been doing that since the 70s.

but for some reason when I tried it on my prototype, it just didn't want to go with the curve.

It's worth a try though, it would be lighter AND stronger. I used to do my Tempests that way.

-Mike

[quote]ORIGINAL: MHester

Wing cores

I do something a little different than most here. I like to honeycomb the outer 1/3 of my wing panels. It reduces mass at the tips, and makes snapping and spinning manuevers more controllable. That's the theory anyway, it seems to work in practical application.

Otherwise, just sheet as normal. Note that you can't use a vacuum on a honeycombed wing panel, it will either distort or crush.



Mike,
When I vacum bag a wing I have it in the shucks when I put it in the bag. Would the honey combing still distort? I've bagged a lot of wings but never honeycombed.

TIA

I would guess it depends on how much vacuum you pull. Too much and yes, it will still distort. If you stay way to the low side, you might get away with it. Maybe. I haven't tried it myself.

I just stack about 200 lbs on a wing panel and call it a day. Works great so far.

-Mike

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Ahhh, Brings back memories of an old girlfriend. . . .
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Yeah hoooo... Nice one!

You guys ain't right....

-M

Wing root ribs

Pretty easy stuff here. Remember that template? Use it to make the root ribs, and cut it out slightly larger. Mark center lines, and when you bore the main wing tube hole, be sure the socket fits nice and snug.

GLue it on with polyurethane glue and masking tape. Put a little extra glue around the tube socket so it's glued well.

Make sure it's straight in relation to the wing chord.

Let this dry overnight, then sand the ribs flush with the sheeting.

Using a band saw or whatever works, cut the socket down close and block sand it flush with the root rib.

The root rib should be perfectly flat, with no waves in it.

ATTENTION ALL PATTERN FLIERS

Just received my BMv2 complete short kit today. This bad-boy is gonna be big. I gaurantee you when you show up with this bird- heads are gonna turn. The foam cores are masterfully cut. The glass work is outstanding and light. If you've been sittin' on the fence over whether to build this plane or not- you're wastin' time. Govana Ahnold says: "Just do it!"

Gene Webber
Director
Caleeefornia Department of Pattern

Wing alignment

Using a large, flat sanding block and 150 grit paper, sand the fuse sides so the sides are flat between F2 and F4. There will be a slight amount of bowing, but you shouldn't have to sand more than about 1/32" deep.

If you're used to aligning a composite plane, this will be dead backwards. But it's the easiest, best way.

Start by cutting the center piece of socket slightly longer than the width of the fuselage at the wing tube hole.

Next cut 4 lengths of 1/4" balsa stock. Since they're not always exactly square, make a mark down one side to make sure the thickness is fairly equal.

Now tack glue these to the root ribs about 5" in front and rear of the wing tube.

Make lite ply "donuts" as shown, they should just slide snugly around the socket.

Now install the center socket, with the donuts on the inside and moving freely.

Install the wing tube and the wings.

Bump the wing roots against the fuse; all of the 1/4" stock should just touch. If they don't, remove the whole assembly and sand on the socket hole a little at a time until they fit snugly against the fuse. ift he fuse was built square and block sanded properly, this whole thing should fit perfect or very close to it the first time.

Level the wings to the fuse spanwise. If you built the plane nice and square, just lay a level across the canopy seat area and take measurements. Be very cautious and take your time. Walk back and look at it, make sure you are comfortable that it is square. Adjust the hole for the socket if it's not.

Now we need to triangulate the tips to the fuse. What I do is install a pin in the tail block on the center line, nice and square and centered. Attach a piece of rigging cable, and use a scrap of fuel line and a nail/pin/whatever for the other end. With all of the root ribs touching and in alignment to the sides, pull the cable tight to one wing tip. use a mark you know is going to be the same, like the front corner of the sheeting. Now slide the pin until it's set and pulled tightly, and stretch it to the other side. it should be the same.

If you just said "damn I'm good!" Then you're ready to glue in the socket. If not...sand and adjust until it's at least within 1/8". in a perfect world you want it perfect, but the truth is it can be off more than that and you'd never feel it. That being said, I spend the time until they are perfect. It's up to you, there is a tolerance.

When you're ready to glue the socket, mix some slow cure epoxy and paint around the socket against the inside of the fuse doubler. When you slide the donut up against it, it should seat the epoxy all the way around the donut and the tube. Spin the tube and donuts a little to make sure you get good contact, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel.

before the epoxy cures, use this time to check again and make sure everything is straight and true. When you're comfortable that it is and nothing is going to move, let the epoxy cure THOROUGHLY before touching it again. I suggest at least 4 hours on 30 minute epoxy. Overnight is better, just make sure the cat isn't going to sneak in there, perch on a wing and ruin your day.

more tomorrow...

Hmmm picss aren't uploading. I'll edit them in later.

-M

Hi Everyone

So who are there is currently building the Black Magic ?

The race is on to post the first set of pictures of any parts tht you have built. I will have a post tomorrow night of all the formers f2 through to f9 completed.


Mike you dont count

Troy