so no real issues.

Pugs

arnie
ive just fitted carbon brace supports on tailplane,due to very vunerable around this area,gives more confidence in 3d manouveres.

I also like the insurance provided by tail bracing. I used a bit of K&S streamlined tubing. I fly with more confidence and less cringing. Besides, rather tail weight that serves a purpose than lead, plus the extra drag does not hurt at all.

Mark

I am putting a pull pull cable round the tail feathers, through a hole lined with copper tubing in the fin, stab, and the bottom of the plane.

has a bit of tri stock added to the stab area. No issues. Did a few blenders and pop ups. No issues.

Pugs

Ok guys,

Next question.

The plane is almost done, should be flying the weekend. The last question is cooling. I have cut a triangular shape just behind head of the engine. The plan was to get as much airflow across the engine as possible and gain access to the plug so I don’t need a remote glow.

Question is was this a mistake as the opinion of my flying friend is, that I should have increased the size of the exhaust out let on the belly pan and made the air go down this to cool the pipe.

What do you guys think?

Kris

IMO do both...

You want 2 -3 times the size of outlet whole to intake hole..

Hi
I did not find any building instructions in my Synergy 90 kit and was wondering if anyone have some close up pictures of how to mount the wheel spats correctly.

Also is it necessary to strengthen the foundation for the undercarriage?

Can I use a normal engine mount with no vibration dampening? (Gone use a YS 91 FZ)

Do I need better than standard servos? (I am using it for normal pattern flying)

shame on you for just using it for normal pattern flying!
Its a great 3Der
Try 3D flight as well! Its absolutely brilliant. You won't regret it.
Luke

I think that standards will do if you use it as a pattern plane.

I am using the normal engine mount when it comes to me, with a YS 110.

I reinforced the undercarraige plate with some tri stock.

knoen
try the zn website,loads off pics on there.there is also a pdf file you can download for set up,cg etc.i use mine for pattern aswell as 3d but in pattern mode it is really good,tracks nice and straight,plenty off power with ys 91.

Well it happened. The first flight did not go well.

I set up the motor up before hand, YS110. It seemed to have a reliable tick over. So I fitted the cowl and off to the site to go and fly. Then, at the site, I couldn’t get a good idle. Seems that it was too rich and then too lean on the idle mixture. Then it looks like the engine was getting hot. So off came the cowl.

The idle seemed better. So off we went to commit the plane to the sky. I flow it around pattern style for 8 mins or so to get some running on the motor a little pitching to the canopy in knife edge, but I was doing this cross wind. Nice knife-edge loops etc.

I set the high-speed needle ¼ to ½ turn rich to keep the motor cool. Then I decided to land. So I gave myself loads of space, as I had not slowed the plane down yet, and my intension was to over shoot and come round. So I flow the patch at about 10 foot and opened the throttle to come round and the engine quit. So I had no option but to land in the long grass. Unfortunately it had the effect of stopping the plane arrester wire style and ripped off the U/C. This wouldn’t be so bad but the spats went though the wing skin, bottom and top. I will replace the UC bearer for something a little stronger, now it has been removed.

It will fix easily but the wing looks like it a sandwich of 1/16 top and bottom with a foam core of about 1/8”. So does any body have any experience of fixing this type of wing? If I aphalatic resin and balsa will this effect the strength of the wing?

I have decided to run the standard silencer with no cowling until the motor is fully broken in.

Over all though what a machine. Very solid and smooth.

Kris

Oh yes I was running 20/20 Yamada fuel which works well with my YS 63's

Kris

Mines going to be built this week. I have a few questions to all of you guys with the expirience of the Synergy.

Wheres the c of g for best 3D?

Any parts of the fuz need work? e.g I hear the fire wall and gear plate is a bit weak.

I'm using a YS 110 with standard YS exhaust on a 15x8 apc.

Cheers - arnie

arnie
check out the zn pdf file, the cg on there is cplrs set up but some rear tail lead will be needed,this seems perfect for 3d,and it will track straight aswell when pattern flying,no skitting on the centre line.

any ideas for positioning the fuel tank on the CG. CPLR says his CG is 230 from the trailing edge, that puts the CG just forward of the former in the middle of the wing cutout, so that the bottom end of the tank is on the CG instead of the middle.

230mm is very very critical. 240 results in a much more stable airplane. As this airplane 3Ds fantastically at 250 or even 260, 240 will give wonderful results.

Mark

thanks for that answer, I don't think I am going to set mine up at 230 then! I'll start at 240 with an empty tank instead. Then I guess it will shift to about 260 with a full tank and still be safe for landing with an empty tank.

Hey - I'm gonna set mine at 220 and wear bicycle clips :bananahea

is the way they expect you to mount your aileron servos, by the time you have hacked away at the wing to get a Futaba S9150 servo in there is nothing left of the plywood former and if a 5 kg force was applied to the servo it would just be ripped out of whats left of the wing. You even have to cut away the rib. That is very bad planning. At least make the gap wide enough to take a proper servo.

I used Hitec digitals in mine, I'm sure they're not quite up to the power, speed and quality of the Futaba ones but they're still excellent servos. And what's more, they drop right into the pre-installed boxes...

Hi
I have a YS 91FZ for my Synergy and DU-BRO .80-.91 4-cycle Vibration Reducing Motor Mount.

Do I need some right drag for the engine?

There is som plywood plates with the kit thats looks like they are for the engine mounting. Any suggestions what they are for?

Check Page 3 of this Thread

when modifying the servo mounts at the tail of the fuz to take my futaba serovs I noticed that the existing mounts are butt joined to the balsa and not glued all that well, I reccommend a light balsa backplate expoxied over both plywood frame and the surrounding balsa fuz. We don't want the the elevator servo falling out!

More question caused by the non existing building instructions.

Is the engine installed with right and down drag or right and up drag?

Can I use cyanohinges instead of the supplied plastic hinges? Will they be strong enough?

Also, I understand of the pictures in this forum and on the ZN web that it is used one two servos on elevator (one for each side) Are they linked together with a Y-cable or what is the solution. Mixing on radio?