It may be that they use a softer ply on the backside of the firewall so that the blind nut tangs will set. The front of the firewall seems hard enough to me, although in the numbers that these planes are produced I'm sure not all of them use exactly the same material. I tightened down the bolts until they were "snug," using red Loctite and haven't touched them since.

Probably wouldn't hurt to put on an extra layer, since you will be adding the stand-off anyway, but then again I've got gobs of flights on mine with the OS, using the plastic engine mounts that came with the ARF, and have had no problems. I used to scoff at plastic engine mounts but I've got to admit that they're working out okay on several models. They are no strong enough and their slight flex does seem to atenuate the vibration somewhat.

Did you angle the YS or mount it inverted with the muffler coming out the left side? I remember Diver09 had his set up this way (inverted) and it looks pretty neat. Cutting the cowl for the angled set-up is a bit tricky, to say the least...

You can buy a Hatori at CH if you wish along with the pipe. As an alternative I would just buy a Slimeline inverted pitts. I think they are about $75.00.

P.S. Bob I love your SD. I thought of one of those but came acrossed a 1/3 Laser at a bargin price. I'm outa the "North" in 3 weeks and I ain't comin' back - maybe - it's Laser and Venus time.

You didnt like the GP adjustable mount that comes with the kit?

Yes, I plan to install the YS inverted. Will see how the muffler and the cowl fit together. In the worse case, I can always install the cowl before install the muffler.

RoysterDW,
I like the kit mount. But because I moved the engine and hytemount from a different plane, it is natural to use both for VENUS II.

Question: is the plastic control horn coming in the kit for the ailerons strong enough? Thx

Saw Don's earlier note. Will go with 6-32 bolt route.

Here's the exact ones I used. I call them 6/32 but they are actually 3 mm. I think their about the same.

http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...horns/imp.html

I used Great Planes giant scale horns.
Some of the Great Planes giant scale horns have raised points underneath to dig in. If so, I cut them off with x-acto because it makes it much easier to install.

Then I use Dubro 2-56 swivel links on the servos. This makes for an extremely solid linkage without binding and no slop at all.

Note also the transparent Monokote I use to seal the hinge line. I seal both sides so that dirt and oil are kept out of the hinge line.

The little white squares you see (hard to see) are Monokote patches I apply over my wooden dowel hinge pins I install to secure the hinges. I also use Pacer Technology hinge glue as well.

Just finished control horns for ailerons. 6-32 screws epoxied in place.

I also opened up the mid-wing frame to allow fuel tank to stay @ CG.

A 1/8 lighted aircraft ply up front to enforce firewall.

Here are some pictures.

I am still fuzzy on how you guys a plumbing the outside of the cowl for a YS110? [&:]

Can I use 2 "T" peices and 2 fuel dots as per the online YS manual?

Why have the fuel tubing going in and out for both lines?

Two fuel tubing lines routed outside the fuze: one for fuel and one for vent return. The beauty of this approch is that when I am fuelnig, all fuel goes to the tank. There is no risk to flood the carb. See pic 2. The jack before the 4 tube connectors is for the glow plug ignitor t be remotely connected. I found it is hard to locate the glow plug when YS is inverted.

I used a CF tube with 4-40 threaded rods JB welded at boh ends to build a push-rod for rudder. Saved some weight. see Pic 1.

Thanks

So the fuel tubing simply goes from one to the other and choice of top being vent or fill?

Here is another way as well.

This uses a 3 line tank.

Engine – The pink line you see here.
Fill – The black fuel dot.
Vent – The brass tubing you see here.

This system is very nice for filling. You can see in one of the photos holding a catch can under the brass tubing allows you to know when it’s full and catch excess fuel. This system only works with a pumped system, not a pressurized system since the vent is not hooked to the muffler. In my case you can see the blue Perry Pump below the engine mount. (using OS 120AX for engine.) I use a pump because my tank is mounted over the CG, too far for muffler pressure system.

yes. For my YS', the top is for vent and bottom for fuel. To depressure the tank, pull the top line, the tubing end close to the engine, while pinching it. Release the pressure when the tubing end is away from the fuze.

To fuel the tank, pull the other end (also close to the engine) and insert the fuel line insert to it. The air goes out from the vent return line (pulled out).

codfish,

nice setup.

Nonstoprc,

Is that a Hanger 9 remote igniter? Does it work?

Although my Venus has engine horizontal so glow plug is directly accessible, I have another plane with inverted engine and wanted to use remote igniter.
I am using a simple hand held glow igniter for source.
The Dubro remote igniter does not work. Too much resistance. I was wondering if there is one that does work. I imagine if I was using an electronic glow source even the Dubro one would work since the active electronics would compensate for the extra resistance, but I want to use a simple hand held battery stick.

Codfish,

Yes, it is a hanger9 unit bought at LHS. The owner recommended it because it is designed for Heli. The unit came with an adaptor to a regular ignitor. Never had any issues.

How do you stop the fuel line from popping off during flight?

I have 3 YS engines and I used to put clamps on all my connections thinking they would fly off. Over the years I got lazy and stopped using the clamps totally. I have never had one pop off.

The fuel fittings from Tettra (http://www.centralhobbies.com/Fuel/fittings.htm) have bulbs on each end to prevent tubings from pop off. Once pushed on, the tubing will stay.

Question: What is a secure way to mount the pilot figure? Looks like the bottom section of the figure does not have a lot of area. Wonder if the figure will stay glued if epoxied down.

RE: pilot figure:

Simply cut an oval out of the monokote from the area where the pilot will fit leaving 1/32 inch perimeter. I then used medium CA (gap filling) and the pilot hung on for with no problem. Consider though the pilot is about 1.5 oz. On my second Venus I did not use a pilot wanting to save weight. There are foam pilots out there that are much lighter, but they are rather expensive. CA will hold better to plastic pilot than will expoy.

It seems as though the "T" piece system with fuel dots is simpler why go for the nipple system when you have to use more fuel tube and drill the fuse and firewall? Is there an advantage?

to avoid flood the carb during fueling. 2 extra small holes. Quite easy to operate.


Godfish,

OK Will use CA to glue the figure.

So in order to run the fuel tubing into the fuse I have to drill holes into the firewall and then back out again?

Anyone have any pics of how they did this?

I'm not quite sure which engine your refering to but if it is a YS you can't flood the carb during fueling and if it is another unpumped engine I have an OS 120 in my Venus II fully inverted and the carb is BELOW the center line of the tank. I close the throttle, fill the tank through the "T" fitting and even though there is some fuel dripping from the carb during this process it NEVER floods the engine. As a matter of fact what little fuel does get into the engine assists me because I never have to prime the engine. Fuel, flip and go.

I once tried the T approach with YS63 and the engine did get flooded.

yes, two short peices of tubing connect the fittings outside th fuze.