The fuselage has now been completed.
To get a really good fit between the wing and fuselage I used microballoons and epoxy. I just used a scrap piece of film and release wax on the fuselage then it's easy to separate the wing from the fuselage.

Before covering I needed to mold another socket for the tube because I noticed I had accidentally left a dry spot in it, stupid mistake. So instead of using fiber glass cloth like last time I wanted to try using paper and actually it was much easier.

Even though I waxed it carefully it took some effort to loosen the socket from the tube. But it came off eventually.

Done !
And this time it worked out very well.

Hi Sigurdur-
I noticed you are using (rectangular)aluminum stock in what seems to be a process to ensure stab is parallel with wing can you share this with us.
Also got the Supra-Fly 2500 down load and checking aound to find a local shop that can enlarge them..
Thanks!
Richard

that's pretty slick SigK!

Hi Mike,

Is it perhaps possibe for you to list the mods you made to the T2K to enable us to build your plane? I am just about to start on a T2K but was waiting for your flight test report, and would rather build a Tempest now....

Congrats on the plane, it sounds fantastic.

Regards
Attie

Thanks, and it flies as good as it looks. I competed with it last weekend and it took me to a new level. With a little more practice, that contest would have been mine easy. Or with just a little wind (the first pattern contest in history that was dead calm).

If you'd REALLY like to build a Tempest, contact me at [email protected] and we'll discuss how to get you the info you'd need. It's simply WAY too much to list here. Basically the wings, tail, rudder, locations, areas and moments are completely different. The nose and canopy section are T2K, the rest is different. Well, the fuse uses the same formers with some changes to the bottom.

I'm in the process of building the second one, and making some drawings for the mods for a couple of other people who want to build one. I'd be happy to add you in the loop, just contact me.

-Mike

Yes Richard
I use the aluminum stock to line up the stab and it works every time as long as they are lined up perfectly straight. I really can't do it any other way because my building board is to small. So it really works like an extension of my board.
Of course it would be much better to have a bigger building board but my room doesn't allow it. So for now it will have to do, but I always dream about a decent 2x2m board. Oh well, someday.... someday

The Typhoon is such a beautiful plane it would be a shame not to try to get the fin to blend into the fuselage smoothly. I used a filler here, it is a little extra weight but I don't care, it looks so much better like this.

Now the wings and stab have been covered the ailerons and elevator halves are next.

Awesome color scheme SigK

Looking very nice. Where is all the monokote bits, worn razor blades, monokote backing, bits of paper (templates), irons, heat gun, hot glove, etc.?

I have a real question though....what is the wieght of your gasser engine setup (motor, ignition, batt., pipe)?

Hi all. I am ready to start scratch building my own design. It's actually based on the Gator Giles. I've had the wood version plans for over a year, and finally decided to get started on it.

I was considering asking the Gator folks if I could get a copy of the CAD file so that I could print patterns for all the parts. I figured they would say no (wouldn't blame them, actually). So, I took some measurements to get the basic moments, etc, then I drew up my own set of plans.

The fuselage is very similar to the Giles. I plan to mold my own cowl and canopy. I've done cowls and wheel pants, and am getting pretty confident with the process. I've never vacuum formed anything, and if it looks like time will be an issue I'll go ahead and order the canopy from Gator.

I am down-sizing the wing. The stock Giles wing is HUGE! The chord at the root is 20 inches, as opposed to the 17 inches of the Hydeout that I have nearly finished. It seems that the smaller wing is more typical, and M. Hester has already suggested reducing the span by two inches.

BTW, MHester, do you think I could get the root and tip chord for the Tempest? It is probably in this thread somewhere, but I dread looking for it.

I have been following this thread, and find the posts by Sigurdur and Mike H. to be very informative.

I am nearly finished cutting the *kit*, and am wondering if I should jump in to this thread, or start my own, like TPH1. What do you guys think?

Dave

Thanks tph1, just quick and simple. I wanted something similar to the classic Joker scheme from 85 for the wings (see pic), I always liked that one, you know, the three stripes on the wing, except the last stripe has a curve, otherwise it's almost the same.

Well I use two boards, then I can have all the mess on one board and keep the other one tidy.
I'm actually using the glow version of the MVVS 1.50 but with the Walbro carb.
This engine is about 800gr and the pipe is rather heavy at 210gr.
I'm interested in trying a gas engine but then I would use the MVVS 2.15 but weighting 1500gr that means moving the wings forward and probably molding the top and lower half of the fuselage and also the canopy to save weight.

Specially for you flyintexan a picture of some covering bits and the brand new glass plate I cut my film on, my old one was to small for the Typhoon, also some templates for this plane.

Hi dreadnaut.
This is a 2 meter plane isn't it ? I would very much like see this thread continue. Looking forward to see the building process on this one.[8D]

I have finished covering the wings and stab.

I, for one, would love to see you do a build thread on your design Dreadnaught. Other peoples ideas and designs always interest me and from what I've seen on this board, interest a lot of others too.
Tom

HI!
i have used Ora cover on my wings on the onyx i fly and the fuse is also covered with this , before (15 years ago) i used super monocote and it seems that this worked better ,the O.cover make bubbles at once in the sun and it loose the "shrink" i cant remember this was any problem with the super monocote any tips or thought on this guys?
Rune

800 gr is much lighter than I thought it would be. Looking at a walbro carb, you would think the carb alone weighs 1kg. Does the 800 gr. include ignition box and battery?

Thanks for showing some of your oracover mess...

When I use super monokote I like to use 2 irons. One real hot and the other on low heat. On large surfaces (wings) I use high heat around the edges, then a heat gun and a hot glove (over the large areas). All in all, I just go real slow.

For putting my trim over other monokote, I spray the base surface with windex then place the precut trim piece on. Then I squeeze out all the water and bubbles. I wait overnight, then seal the edges with high heat. I know there are other methods, but that's the one I use.

What retracts are good for the typhoon 2000 and where can I get them?


Thanks,

Chris

Hi flyintexan

I think the Walbro doesn't weight more than 60gr so it just looks heavy. The OS .60 carb is about 45gr so I don't think 60gr is to bad.
Yes the glow version of the MVVS 1.50 is light at 800gr.
The gas version weights more at 940gr
I am actually using Solarfilm it works better on veneer, I tried Monokote but it doesn't stick as well. Also the Solarfilm doesn't require as much heat as Monokote so I like it better on foam wings.

Check out Gator, they have MK retracts.

Wow Sigurdur, I think the wing looks fantastic with the Orange color inboard. I can't wait to see the fuselage. Have you tried putting it together yet?