All of the parts came in perfect. Everything looks great !

More parts

Mounting the landing gear. As you can see the holes are not drilled to mount the gear to the gearbox.
Cut a small square of paper and tape it to the gearbox. Then, using a punch find the holes. Place
the gear over the paper and trace it out. Remove the gear and match up the paper with the gear and mark the
holes with a marker. Drill the holes for a perfect fit.

Landing gear

Canopy install: Place the clear canopy over the canopy frame. Using thin tape outline the cut-line. Cut canopy and glue in place.

did you finsih yet?

i thought that pink version was the PnP version?

hahaha, looks great.. hope to see it in Nederland?

Chuck

How is the weight on your Shinden?

Here are the weights:

Both stabs with spars: 316g / 11.1oz

Left wing: 442g / 15.7oz

Right wing: 466g / 16.4oz

Wing tube: 76g / 2.7oz

Fuselage: 1180g / 41.5oz

Right landing gear: 84g / 2.9oz

Left landing gear: 90g / 3.2oz

Firewall bulkhead: 54g / 1.9oz

Uncut canopy: 156g / 5.5oz

What is you final estimated weight?

2120g for an entire model complete without landing gear legs will yield a 10lb even model

Your model from the weights above is 2690g I have found that a model pushing 2500-2550 is the weight limit without landing gear legs. However this weight does include the firewall already glued in place on the above the model. This 2120g also includes the servo trays installed and tank mounts too.

The bottom line difference is 570g from the above numbers. This is 20oz. Make sure you conserve every ounce possible....Absolutely every possible ounce. Add this 20oz to the 10lb model and its 4 oz over weight.

I have a pretty comprehensive spread sheet that goes back to 1999-2000 and based on about 15 different models assembled by myself or buddies and the projected weights are now coming out within 1oz of the predicted on my spread sheet On any of the models I have built recently. This goes back to my Fashion in 1999 and catches other models like a Comp Arf Rev Pro, a couple CA eclipses', a Genesis, Angel Shadow, Beryll, 3 Pinnacles, Astral XXc, Zeque, and the Adventure Bipe. I basically have the spread sheet tuned up to get really close overall weights. The more models that get in entered the closer it gets to actual weights.

The Spread sheet says that your model is 4-5oz over weight as it sits. This is already using many weight saving items like small lipo for RX and lightweight Hydemount. Your wing tube is already pretty light and so on..... Use the heavy batts and so on you might be as much as 6-8oz overweight.

You need to take special care in making sure that everything you do is as light as possible. Of course the uncut canopy will give some weight but its not going to do a full 4-5oz as it only weighs 5.5oz uncut.

Bryan's models always fly well and it will even at the 11lb limit but you need to make weight with it. So work extra hard on your equipment choices and be super careful on every bit of weight you add. Just because its some space aged material doesn't mean its lighter. Get the stuff on the scale and weigh every part. Remake the part 3-4 times and try to get it lighter before you glue it in place. Do a major comparison on the weights and strengths of the parts you add. Minimize silicone fuel tubing, and use aluminum tubing instead its much lighter. Consider a very light tank, If you are using a DZ it doesn't need to hold pressure so a light weight tank from a sport model might work better in weight savings. Super lightweight everything is needed to shave that 4-5oz out of it.

This is not a bash or anything on the model, I would like to get my hands on a Shinden and see how it flies, I'm just crunching the real numbers and have experience doing it with my own models. I'm sharing the experience I have gained in the past few years on these types of models and you need to work hard to get that model to make it. It likley can be done, but I don't want to see you get it all together and then realize its 4-5 or even 8oz over weight. That makes the choices difficult. You can shave weight when assembling that once you do it is difficult to get the excess back out.

Bryan will help you get it... He is way better than I at coming up with creative ideas to shed ozs, and have well engineered pieces. Today's power plants have plenty to carry the legal models. So you won't suffer using a current engine setup, but you need to have it make weight to be in the "Show" Plus the lighter you can get it the better off you be in the future for repairs, and any changes you might make to it over time.

Good Luck with it and keep us posted on how it goes. I'm willing to help offline too just email me and I'll share some ideas with you about getting it lighter. Bryan probably already has a handle on them but just in case.....


Troy Newman

Mounting the engine:
First: hang the fues on a wall.
Second: clamp the engine with the motor mount, back plate and prop to the
nose of the cowl (make sure to to put a 1/16" piece of balsa between the back plate
and the fuse).

Now, from the inside of the fuse, you can trim the firewall to fit up against the back of the motor mount.
using a small amount of CA tack the mount in place.

Now you can remove the motor. Before gluing in place, make sure to put tape around one side of the mount.
This will stop the glue from seeping through to the other side. I used 30min epoxy with cavosil.

Good work...keep it nice and neat and it will save weight.

The model in the photos looks good. the finish looks better than I have seen. i'm anxious to see one in person, and actually fly one. I liked the looks of the Shinden since Bryan posted photos of it.

Plus I htink I got a stump puller of a motor that can haul it.

Troy Newman

I bet you do have a stump-puller, Troy. You know when Bryan designed this he had the 1.70DZ in mind for power...

Looks like the final weight will 10lbs 15oz. I could have saved weight by using a pull pull set-up on the elevator, But I like the D.E.P.S. system from Central Hobbies. If the weathers holds out, I will make the first flight on it today
I have a lot more pictures, just never had time to post them.

Troy
I`d be glad to let you fly the plane, as you know
look me up at the Nat`s or come over to Buddies Contest in June Beaumont Tx,, good Nats prep and about 8 or 9 FAI pilots to test your skills
after some final trimming ,,
the Composite version that I`m flying has NO MIX both knifes straight up and down
what a pleasure to fly .
great snaps , and good presentation ,, at 150
Also, the 1.6 DZ Pulls it fine
But I think the 1.7 would give you a few more prop Options
Bryan

I'm hoping the DZ170 will turn the 18.1x10w in Muncie in the worst conditions. I have a feeling it will [8D]

is this Shinden out of the first run or the second? I like the colors, but that pink man.......eek!

Really cool plane, I can't wait to get the brand X version worked out and flying! LOL

-Mike

Hey Mike
I fly the 18.1 10w on the Wood shinden in all weather conditions on the 1.6 dz
this airplane is 11 pounds even.

What we need is a 18.1 10.5 regular blade to help with the noise a little better.
the 1.6 is a beast the 1.7 has to be a little better though
However the wood Shin. has a thinner airfoil
the Composite version don`t like it too much in the wind.
HUMMMM!
Might be able to convince Troy to join the team next year !!
that was Bait Troy, [X(]
Bryan

LOL

I swear I saw "Team Oxai" in Troy's sig somehwere....good luck, I somehow doubt Troy's gonna be giving that up any time soon

I'm headed out to the contest, y'all have fun!

-M

Fuel tank

Rudder pull-pull

Rudder servo

Wing servo

D.E.P.S. evevator system from Central Hobbies