Ryan:

No need for any apology at all. I just wanted to spread the word.

I checked in another shop today and this new shop was selling the CDI for just 75,500 Yen - a full $100 lower than I paid (!!). And this shop is just about 500 yards from the shop I went to.

I've forgotten the name (it's Japanese), but I'll get it by the weekend from my Japanese buddy and post it here, along with their website and telephone number(s). This shop also had JR 8911s for $107. Central hobbies lists the 8611SA at $119, so the 8911 must be even more. It anyone's going to Japan, shop around and you can save big bucks on almost everything!

BTW - the list price for the engine is 100,100 JPY, which is slightly north of $1000. But the street price here in Tokyo is about $750 to $850 depending on the store.

I'll post the numbers on the weekend. In transit till then.

atul

Gerrie:

For now, it seems to be on sale only in Japan. It was release here in Japan on April 11th - just about a week back. I paid $850 yesterday and saw it in another shop today for $750. BTW - if one uses a credit card then it's 3% more on the tab.

The servos are also about 20% cheaper: I paid $107 for an 8911.

I'll post the address/website/numbers of the cheaper shop on the weekend. Don't have them handy right now.

atul

Atul,

FYI also, the 8911 is the overseas version of the 8711 if I'm not mistaken.

I would love to visit some Japanese hobby shops sometime!

Here's the info. It's been sent to me by my Japanese friend. However, please understand that no one in these shops speaks English, so it can be quite a bit of a problem placing any orders.

Please also note that the amount one ends up spending depends a lot on the bank exchange rates. If the Yen is strong against the dollar on a given day, you'll end up spending more, not less (!). Don't forget that shipping also costs more.

Finally, direct purchases from Japan are a sensitive issue for all of us in the U.S. I happened to visit there and found something that was not available here, so I got it. Richard is the importer of YS engines into the U.S. and he works via a 2-stage distribution process. i.e. all equipment goes through the master distributor and a second distributor before finally reaching a retailer like Central Hobbies. As with any distributor, Richard always waits for the most favourable exchange rate before making a bulk purchase. In fact, it is because of this that you'll find the YS-110 to be cheaper at CH than in Japan (CH : $380; Japan (Cheapest shop): $445). So overall I'm not sure how much - if anything - one might save. In the long term, it's better to support the retailers and distributors here in the U.S. As such, I believe the names below should be used for those traveling to Japan ideally.

Atul


Super RadiCon

Address : Echo Akihabara Bldg. 2F
1-10-3 Taito, Taito-ku, Tokyo
zip : 110-0061

Tel : +81 3 5688 1414

Web site
http://www.super-rc.co.jp/tokyo.html

Online shopping
http://www.super-rc.co.jp/cp-bin/osc...og/default.php



Futaba Sangyo

Address : 2-9, Kanda Suda-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
zip : 110-0061

Tel : +81 3 3255 9984

Web site
http://www.f-sangyo.co.jp/default.html

Online shopping
http://www.f-sangyo.co.jp/shop/goods/goods.asp?top


Champ

Address : 6-5-4, Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
zip : 101-0021

Tel : +81 3 5807 5239

Web site (English)
http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/Champ_Inte...onal_index.htm

Does anyone know what the header rise is when using the YS 170 DZ, with a Hatori 821 muffler in an Integral? Is there a particular header to buy, or is something custom needed? Also, any special mounting hints for the muffler?

Ed,

I've always used Asano headers, but they're a little difficult to find, and I've gotten them as hand me downs. Hatori makes a couple of headers that plug into the pipe, and essentially work the same as the Asano ones do, they just mount differently. The 822 has a 25mm rise, and the 823 has a 10mm rise. I've not mounted a glow motor in the Integral, all of the ones I've built have been electric-powered, but I think you'd be fine with the 822. You can always block the pipe mount up a little if you need to.

For mounting, I'm partial to the Nishioka one touch mounting system, Central sells it. My Partners don't have a long chin cowl, and it's easier for me to take the pipe out if I need to. There is a mounting kit that comes with the Hatori 821 pipe, but I've never used it.

I hope this helps!

Ed,

Tuny and I installed the CDI in the Passport and Osmose Evo and did not make any changes to the exhaust system, it does not interfere at all.

Ed

You can use the 822 with no problems.

I prefer the mounting system that comes with the pipe. I prefer it to the nishioka system.

Arch

Thanks for the replies everyone. I ordered everything from Central today. Now I just need to cover up the original 2C tuned pipe exit hole in the bottom of the fuselage and cut a new exit for the Hatori. I was about to start painting my new Integral this weekend, but might wait unless I can figure out where to locate the new hole. If I knew how far back from the spinner backplate to locate the exit, I could make the mods right now "blind". Does anyone have that exhaust hole dimension handy when using the 822 header and 821 muffler?

I prefer the stock mount for the Hatori pipes too. I ran my CDI in the driveway tonight for the first time and plan to fly tomorrow. For this first run I used a nicad pack I grabbed from the bench thinking it was charged enough. The motor started easily and ran well at third throttle but did not want to advance into the upper throttle band. I started thinking that this motor was tight or something. After the initial run, the motor did not want to start again and actually "thumped" badly. This is so anti-the experience other people are sharing that I thought for sure something was wrong. I switched out the battery for a fresh one, and the motor ran PERFECT.

So, the moral of the story, always make sure you have a fully charged battery on the ignition. If the motor acts a little funny, it could be a low battery. Just something else to add to the trouble-shooting bag of tricks. I have the Mejzlick 18x10 on it now for break-in, and the APC 19x11 to try later.
Thanks,
Jim

Stunning performance today from this gem over 5 flights! I'm very happy with the results today. The plane sounds better on the ground, it sounds different in the air, the power is increased (however this maybe because I did not install the throttle barrel intake device as I had before). Downlines are slower. Spin entries are easier. I picked up some fuel economy - what else do we want?
Thanks,
Jim

I have been flying the YS-170 CDI for some time, probably 100 flights or more. It has worked great for me using Cool Power 10% LS oil and 30% nitro. Those of you who were at the Ocala Fl. contest will recall that I had a problem with my engine on the 4th. flight on the Saturday which prevented me from flying that airplane on the Sunday.

It turss out that I had a bent crank shaft causing the front bearing to rotate in its housing and destroying the crank case. Richard at YS replaced the necessary parts and returned the engine to me including the old ignition module which did not repair.

I now have 10 flights on this same engine in a new Aires. It is running 400rpm stronger than before @ 7600+rpm on an APC 18.1X11. I have posted a few words about the engine and the airplane on my photo album here http://albums.phanfare.com/5187035/3...ageID=67692433

I have been running the CDI for 4 months now using 10%LV 30%nitro Cool-Power and apc 19x11 or 18.1x12. The motor runs very nice, cooler more power and uses less fuel than before.
The problem I have is valve springs. I had to replace 4 springs already 3 on exhaust and 1 on intake. I have striped and checked everything and can not find the fault.[][][]


Anny suggestions???

Wally

FWIW, I've decided to run the standard 30% Morgan heli fuel until more time is out on the motors in general. I'm not sure what the value of running less oil is at this point (besides less of a trail). Flying my 170 CDI back to back with Juan's Brio/170 standard, there is a a big difference in spoke trail already (mine is reduced versus the standard). With the Mezjlick 18x10, I set the idle to 1700-1800 rpms, and top end was 8640. If you set the idle any lower, it starts to mismatch the throttle curve because now you have to move the throttle stick some just to get into the usable power band, then all of a sudden the power starts coming on. At 1700-1800 rpms, you need a higher degree of stick pump to go over stall turns nicely (perhaps though that is just my poor technique).

At the end, I adjusted the idle in the 1700-1800 range, and the curve so that it is "steep" in the beginning, then flattens a bit to the top. I also took 25% off of the Throttle AFR and was still achieving the 8600+ rpms. So, this leads me to wonder where "full-throttle" really is on the thottle body. Attached are some pictures of the servo and barrel at 100% and at 75%. The original 100% position was short of exactly 90 degrees on the barrel. There is a noticeable difference in the 100% and 75% positions. Also, the pump screw is just barely out from flush. The high-speed needle is about 1 turn out.
Thanks,
Jim

Can anyone else describe their pump position? I think this is where some people are seeing higher fuel savings than others.

A good friend of mine just lost his great flying Integral after installing the CDI to his YS170. He was using a futaba fast 2.4 system batteried by a fromeco 2600mah 7.4v lipo regulated with a Jaccio 5.7v regulator. He apparently had a Y harness after the regulator, with one end going to the receiver and the other end going to a switch that went to the CDI. He had two great flights with his new system however on the third flight about half way thru his routine the motor suddenly quit and followed by locked out radio. The plane unfortunately went in after having no response, and was only about 150 ft in the air when this happened. Loss of motor and signal to crash was about 3-4 sec.
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this with a similiar setup? and was also wondering if the Jaccio regulator may have been the possible cause for not being able to hold the amp load as the battery pack discharged... What are the amp loads of the CDI?? Any other thoughts are welcome. This left a few of us in our group baffled. I realize seperate battery system may have been safer for him, but I'm curious if the Jaccio regulator can handle the duo amp load from the receiver/servos and the CDI combined??

Thanks
Doc

Did he check his batteries before his third flight under a 1.5 amp load? How new were his batteries? The CDI definitely draws down the batteries faster, so you need to check them after every flight. I've also had servos go into self oscillation and draw over 1.5 amps, and almost crash a plane. The situation you describe sounds like a dead short, or a main switch failure. Or something came unplugged.

What did the battery read after the crash under a 1.5 amp load? I don't fly below 7.3 volts.

I don't use the Jaccio regulator, but I use the Alt regulator in two different planes with CDI with no problems.

Doc,

I fly with the very same set up and have for over a year. 2600 Fromco, Jaccio reg, But, I power the ignition from an unused port in the rx board. When you run through a additional connection, i.e. Y harness there will be an addtional voltage drop. Since the engine quit first then lock out it sure smells like low battery voltage.

Current draw on the ignition is about 300-350ma at 7500 rpm and is about 50-75ma at idle.

I would suggest a higher amperage regulator to be on the safe side. A dedicated battery for the ignition might be in order for anyone not comfortable with drawing out of the rx power supply.

Bill

Hi,
Re: Earlier thread : The unit draws a max current up to 0.32A, which for a 10min flight is only ~50mAh.
My experience: I had one cell go on a 2 cell A123 1100Mah battery (6.6v) in the air. This dropped the voltage to around 4.2v. The engine stopped and the radio went into low voltage thr low failsafe. I was able to land the plane no problem at that voltage. I just switched the Rx pack and continued flying. However it looks like below 4.8 the ignition will stop first and if you continue the Rx would be next ?

Jim,

My pump is 1/2 to 5/8 turn out from flush. I think Archie's is as well.

Thanks for the comments,
The troubling thing is the battery pack was being tested after every fight with a 1amp load and was always above 7.5v. After the crash we checked the sysem again with a 1amp load and the batteries still read above 7.5v. That's what troubling part to us. So we are wondering if the duo run system with the Jaccio 5.7v regulator can't handle the amp load under certain conditions with what appears to be a well charged battery pack. There is a group of here in Chicago on standbye with are CDI's awaiting some info. The unfortunate pilot was Mickey, and he's usually pretty flawless with his setups.

Doc

I had my 2.4GHz Rx reset on taxi out and could fiind nothing wrong with the battery, Jaccio regulator or any servo. However, I did install long servo arms on the ailerons 2 flights earlier. When I did a load check with the engine running the consumption peaked at just over 2A. With the standard servo arms this was reduced to 1.6A. With the engine off it's only 160mA. I believe we are increasing the overall demand on the voltage regulators and may be pushing some near their limits.

Checking the cuurent consumption after any major change should become as standard as a range check before flying a new rx or tx. Also, know the limits of your regulator and apply a reasonable margin....40% derating should be OK for long and trouble-free life. 3A rated devices should not be allowed to exceed 1.8A continuous.

Colin.

Jim,

My pump is right where Ryan says. When I was looking at Brett Wickizer's this weekend, his is in a similar location.

I'm running the Tech Aero (Ed Alt) dual regulators directly into the receiver and am using about 200mah per flight with no problems. I am running dual 950mah thunder power LiPo's and fly 4 flights before charging...

Arch

Thanks Arch and Ryan,

At this point, I have a single A123 1100 battery with three "outs." One power out for receiver (unregulated), one for the Ignition, and one 3-wire out for balance charging with FMA Cell-Pro. The out that goes to the ignition passes through a Smart-Fly 5.1V regulator just before the ignition.
Jim

I'm not an engineer so don't beat me up...I've done a quick search on Li-ion packs and found an interesting discharge curve plotted from cell phone use (single cell)...

At 3.75v (7.5V for assumed 2 cell)...It appears to be a very dangerous curve. If this curve holds true, coupled with the higher current draw on the output of the regulator, the additional demand could have pulled the voltage down causing exactly what happened (again assuming that the engine then Rx failure theory is an indicator of a dead battery)...

I don't really know, but perhaps an engineer type can chime in and offer an opinion about this theory....

Here is the link:

http://www.lenrek.net/experiments/nokia/

Larry Diamond

My pump is currently around 3/4 out from flush. Reason being it was far too rich on idle. I think my particular CDi could probably be leaned further on idle as it still sometimes "richens up" when left idling for a bit then advancing the power, especially after a vertical dive and then going back up 45 degrees or vertical again e.g. in the horizontal hourglass in the F-09. My main jet was around 7/8 of a turn out but is now about 1 1/4 - 1 1/3 after leaning the idle.

One thing I have noticed is that the sound of the CDi is not as sweet as the 170. It is a slightly harsher tone which I'm not so keen on.

Has anyone tried running a low smoke version of the 170 on CDi fuel? When I get a bit more time I was going to remove the spark plug and put in a glow plug, then put the pump back to flush and main needle in the norm 170 position and then run it on my 10% oil CDi fuel just to see how it runs.