Maar my f......[sm=cry_smile.gif]

Just look on their website

Wally

I did, and could not find it, translated the page and nothing.

hi walter
can you tell me what, Max V is fore the CDI unit ?? ,,(battery) ,?? to cell lipo ,, 4ore5 cell Nimh
what doo you use ??

I use a 4cell nicad for now but is bussy converting to a 2cell lipo with a 5.5v reg

It needs 4.8 to 6v

Wally

Lets try again

[email protected]

Wally

Lets try again

[email protected]

Wally

Lets try again

[email protected]

Wally

Thanks

LOL

Sorry man

This laptop of mine is bad, must be a mode 2[:'(]

Wally

Sure!! I'm fighting with mine right now (no joke)!!

Let's see if I get them, BTW did you made the mod on your running engine or on a brand new one?

I'm wondering if I should run it on glow plug first for the break in with the extra oil or just straight with the new one, I still need to check my new one to see if it has the mod.

Regards

Mine was a running engine with about 350 flights on it and still very strong

If I were you i would do the mod if you had a YS before and know how it works. I have seen too many pilots breaking the motor because they still think two-stroke!!

no joke but mine is running cooler with the cdi kit!!!!

only problem is the weight, i am 40grams over

Wally

I just got my 1.70 CDI in yesterday, and hope to have the motor flying next week.

It's a beautiful motor, and I'm looking forward to running it!

Hi Ryan

Please do me a fovour and check the plug gap?

Wally

Ryan,

Were did you get the engine? I'm assuming is the engine that comes with the CDI from the factory, is it?

Wally,

Will do.

Alejandro,

To be honest with you, I don't know. I assume that it is as well, I got the motor through YS Parts and Service. I'm sponsored by them, so I was able to get one a little early, I guess. Not sure what the price is on them either.

As of right now, I'll be running Coolpower 20% heli until I get used to the motor. I've also got some S&W that I'll be trying out as well, I ran some in my 1.60DZs with pretty good success. I've got an APC 18.1x10 for a prop right now, but I'll likely be trying both a 19x11 and 18x11 WPN. The WPN intrigues me, however I have a feeling that maybe the 19x11 will be the prop of choice for my airframe (Partner).

If anybody wants any info as far as performance, I'll be glad to get those numbers when I start flying the motor.

Thanks Ryan,

Good luck with the new motor, let us know.

Regards

Just e-mail them,don`t think it is listed on the site yet[8D]

cheers

Is anybody buy an YS170 CDI "stock" ?
Where ?
What price ?
With wich fuel it run ?
Oil percentage, Nitro percentage ?

Thx 4 all (sorry 4 my english...)

The 170 CDI does not sell "stock". One has to get the regular "low oil" 170 (I got mine 3 weeks back from Central Hobbies) and the CDI kit separately. The CDI kit is freely available in many hobby shops in Japan (I got mine on a visit to Tokyo). Various posts say that one can use 9% oil (or 7% or 10%). Most people on this forum seem to be using 20% or more Nitro. The Nitro just controls the power and so should not matter with the CDI engine as much as it does with the 'regular' engine.

I have not run my engine yet (Though YS Parts and Service did run it for 30 mins or so - I sent it to them to fix the CDI kit). I will only get to run it after another two weeks or so. I'll let you know how it goes. Plan on using 9% oil and 15% to 20% nitro. I'm putting it on a Somenzini Yak, and a second one one a TOPMODEL CAP 232.

Atul

I've read every post here, but I'm not sure if the kit works with the non-low oil version of the 1.70 or not. Can I use the kit with a standard 1.70 using a high oil content, or do I have to have the new crank? Is the magnet for the sensor in the crank pin, or is it in the supercharger that comes in the kit?

Jon

Jon:

The Kit only includes the ignition, a new Head for the spark plug and a new backplate with a wire coming out of it for the ignition timing signal. No supercharger parts, etc.

atul

The first one I ran just about one year ago was a standard 170 and ran perfect on 20% oil. The ignition will work fine whether your on 20% oil or 10%. The engine needs to be leaned down and will burn a little less fuel with the lower oil. The crank and the exhaust lifter are the two different componnets that allow the connecting rod bushing to survive with only 10% oil.

Bill

Ok, I guess I wasn't clear. Where is the magnet to trigger the sensor? Is it in the crankpin requiring a new crank, or elsewhere? Is it in the kit?

Thanks.

The magnet is embedded in the intake rotor, driven by the crank pin. The crank does not have to be replaced to run ignition. It may need replaced to run low oil, depends on the version. The new style has an oil passage through it to lube the connecting rod bushing but that has nothing to do with the ignition.

Bill

Thanks. Just what I needed to know!