well I had to readjust my elevator pushrod by about a 1/2 inch
every things works good so far it is on center line
I also had to change the elevator servo around
The rudder servo sits behind it perfectly now all I got to do is hook up the pull pull system I need to get a bigger 6/32 bolt 3 inches long
I will do that later tonite

elevator servo picture

I would recommend altering the position of the servo's for elevator and rudder to run along the length of the fuzz and not accross. The pull or push from the side as currently positioned tends to cause the servo to "lean over". Also the fitted servo tray is flimsy ply and warps - I addedd re-inforcing to the servo tray.

That is a good thought, I will fix the problem with a new plate or some harwood rails placed in somehow, something to stiffin it up

The question is servo roll or flexing in the mounting system of the servo , the rubber grommets.
they are of course how you mount the the radio gear and second they help with vibration damping very little at that but they do
I use to run Duct Fans and Pylon Planes and the biggest killer there was vibrations. in those planes there was not much room for the servos so they were fitted very tightly or stuffed in with a shoe horn

The other question do I raise the rudder servo to miss the elevator servo or
If I run it down the side of the fuselage. what wil this do for me
I Haven't done the pull/ pull cables yet, I still have time to switch things around
If I keep the elevator servo were it is and raise the rudder I should be okay [&o]

I remember putting servo in straight direct aligment with the pushrods and not turning them sideways,
is this because of the balance issue or that there is much more area to use for mounting equipment
Servo back in the old days were not that strong
Todays new servos, stronger and faster has change everthing


Back to the question at hand is there any other way to mount servos beside rubber gromments or direct connection
I know giant scale are actually mounting them in the control surface and hooking the servo arm directly to the moveable part and running the system with no linkage at all direct connection to the control surface

Thanks Greg for that info

I tried a test and was I surprised to see how much wiggle there was in monting the servos sideways I just used my fingers and grab the servo and started to wiggle it very easily

I think CMP lost it on this part of the model

so I cut out the old tray
I made a cardboard template
I got a piece of 1/8 aircraft playwood to make the new tray
I stiffend the old tray with 1/2 triangle stock no problem there

Yip - I raised the rudder control servo = you can use 1/4 inch stock....here in SA we use 6mm!!!

I secured the fuel tank with "velcro" straps and used some light/soft foam sheeting to wrap the tank before installing.

I must admit I prefer only using the clear fuel tubing because its easier to see the fuel = checking for bubbles...

I tried using the fuel pump from a certain supplier but after the third one in a year failed = the exchange rates for money makes imports horrific expensive here[:@] I changed to using a small header tank at the firewall and exhaust gas pressure to the main tank. Whish I had of tried that first and saved a whole heap of money for the fuel instead!!! It worked great[8D]

My Leo was powered with an OS91FX with self made aluminium side to rear header piper and standard OS tuned muffler arrangement. Ample power....until I recovered with glasscloth and resin and painted the plane

thanks for the help greg

I will raise the rudder 6mm

the velcro sounds good also

I am using the blue fuel tube for the main line to the carb, well the other colors, orange line was for the pressure and the green line was the fill line

Should I run a header tank with the YS 110
I planning to use the hatori header and hatori pipe I think

Captin1,

There is no reason to run a header tank with the YS 1.10...the YS has a fuel delivery system that will get fuel from the CG to the engine. The OS doesnt, so you can either run a pump of some sort or a header tank to help with this.

Enjoying the build thread...

Arch

Thanks for the info

Working on the pull pull system on the rudder almost finshed just have to make minor adjustments
worked on the engine line up also it is taken care of
Just have to figure out were to put the switch and charge jack assembly at [&o]

I just finished mounting the horizontal stab
I also glued the hinges on the moveable and fixed parts
got all the controls centered up and tight

I didn't like there tail wheel bracket, I will probally replace it later
only small things left to do like mount the canopy
velcro in fuel tank
put a remote glow ignitor
still trying to find a good place for the switch assembly
last but not least the header and pipe system

I have been working on the tunnel cut out for engine cooling
I have the place for the reciever to be mounted just have to secure it now
reworked some of the servos wires
mounted the switch and charge jack assembly

Nice built Captin1, anyway, I want to know either it's firewall comes with right thrust and down thrust made ready by factory?

Yes, the plane came with the motor mount brackets installed. and a nose ring that helps support the cowling also you can really see the thrust angles when you put a spinner back plate on when you do the first fit up of your motor [8D]

It is scarey to think and to trust the manufacture, when they put the amount of down thrust and side thrust in already
these things are built in a jig assembly so they are set up pretty damn close for the first flight or two
they also have pieces of triangle stock on the sides for reinforcement. [&o]

You have to cut out some of this triangle mount pieces to line up the motor in the center of the nose ring
they used their own style of vibration damping mount

Now if you try to change this motor mount system to a another mount system it is going to take some work on your part
you will have to cut off their mount system the brackets are tied back threw the fuse leave the inside parts alone [sm=47_47.gif]

I am now installing and glueing the hinges inplace it is slow but not that bad to do
I was short one round hinge so I used one from another source RADIO SOUTH 1/4 Scale PRO HINGES they did the job
I am sealing all the gap hinge area with claer monokote

The list of things to finish is small
Velcro straps for the fuel tank
Put in a remote glow starter also
Secure reciever and battery after balancing the plane
The major pain left is in the #### Header sytem
recheck the plane total dry weight
recheck all the pushrods and clevis one more time Safety First

I just finished sealing the area in wing under the tunnel
I just did the front of the fuse and landing gear area sealing
I just worked on the servo leads on the top of the wing

This is the way they would have you set it up
I was using tape to look at the setup
After looking at the rear tunnel area again, there is somewhat of a problem
the pins are only glued in the former
I am thinking another brace to be glued in for better support

I was working on the rear of the tunnel pin area
I put an extra former in the area to make a straighter pin aligment
I used a piece of triangle stock for an extra support and glue base
now I just have to fuel proof the wooden pieces

I was working on the fuel Tank area hold downs
I seen every body using velcro so I will also
I picked up my velcro at Lowes store for around 3 bucks so I bought 2 of them
the size is 18 in x 3/4 or 45 cm x 19 MM
I enlarged the holes in the tray area to accept the 3/4 size strip
I used a piece of 256 rod about a 1.25 inches long for the hold down rods I used the sticky back tape on itself to make the loops for the rods
I used a piece of 1/4 inch foam under the tank for vibration problems

I was working on the canopy today it is blue shade with silver outline trim
I trimed the the plastic to the mold line
than I sanded it to make it look good
after about 5 trial fit I got it in the spot that I wanted, so I drilled the holes
The drawing only shows 4 screws but they give you 6 of them
The screws have these little rubber style washers you drill the hole for the screw than you drill the canopy for the washer on the screw

Captin1

Well it looks like you are on the home stretch. Nice job Captin1. I hope we get to maiden the Leo 110 and my Purple Zen 30 on the same day. The way the weather has been here lately in S.W. PA, I don't think it's going to be any time soon.
Keep up the good work. Hope it flies as nice as it looks. I think you have a winner.

Thanks Brickhead

I am trying to finish this plane I am almost done with its setup
I think this weather is going to be a pain [&o]

Well I went to the hobby shop today and picked up from Sullivan HEAD LOCK REMOTE Extended glow plug connector
item # M 056 the long one not the short one
I installed the plug connector to the glow plug and did the ground wire to a bolt on the engine now comes the fun part of
seeing where I am going to putthe remote part
Where do I put it ,on top, on the sides, man the brain is smoking on this one
I have a little problem with the fit of the tunnel to the cowling just a aligment isssue it will be fixed
Now I need to get the header and pipe the Hatori system
after that is done all I have to do is balance it and secure the battery do one last safety check

I thinking of my next plane FOCUS SPORT maybe SANTA will be nice to me this year

I was working on the head lock remote extended glow plug connector Sullivan

I found the spot to put it after seeing it on a friends airplane
It was a nice day it was cold, clear and there was more than a few flyers out the field today

My buddy Brickhead test flew his Zen 30 today it flew good of course
I don't know if he was shaking because it was cold or he was that nervous

One thing I found was you have to supply the angle bracket it was not supplied they didn't tell you that either
they didn't tell you to put a small cut from the edge to the hole so a wire can slip threw it
I used green tape for the layout lines
Now all I have to do is put the hold down screws in place and clean up the wire tie it down secure it something

I found a place to run the remote glow plug wires
I drilled a hole in the other servo throttle mount area
I used a small plastic wire mount bracket to hold the wires down
I will put a piece of covering around the wires to seal up the hole

than I fished the wires threw the firewall area where the fuel lines come out
than I drilled the mount for the remote glow plug extender
I also put tape around the fiber glass tape around the fuel tank for pressure purpose

Hey, nice build going. The only suggestion i have is to double check the elevator push rod. I had the same set up on a different plane from Nitro Planes and the push rod had so much flex that the elevator fluttered in flight. Try moving the elevator up and down and see if the push rod flexes. I changed their push rod to a Dave Brown arrow shaft and 4-40 rods.