Thanks! So, what battery are you planning on using?

I am using two FlightPower 800-mAh 2s Lipo's with two [link=http://www.tech-aero.net/plr5-i]Tech-Aero reg/switches[/link], plugged into separate slots in the RX, which provides battery redundancy, and the IBE provides ignition power from the Rx. Therefore, you get igintion and also Rx redundancy with 2 batteries.

All these items together weigh 5.7 oz, plus a little more for mounting, which I haven't exactly figured out yet. The Lipo's come with JST leads which I will have to change to Futaba.

All in all, not bad at all for a 1600-mAh redundant power supply that includes ignition power!

Also keep in mind that this is somewhat offset by the fact that the fuel tank is 12 oz versus 20-24 oz for glow.

Well, it will save roughly 4 ozs if you were to use a separate battery and switch harness for powering the ignition module.

The neat thing is that you can program practically any aux channel to act as switch for the igintion on newer radios. It is soooo convenient to switch the ignition on or off with the TX. I am sure it is safer too. It has an LED that turns on when the unit is active. The LED is mounted such that it can be seen from outside (DUH!!). It is bright enough to see in sunny conditions

I had a hand in testing some rather old equipment (10 to 15 year old Futaba, JR, Hitec on 72 MHz) and this thing worked great, meaning no loss of range when the ignition was firing 10k rpm. Newer equipment are a nonissue of course. Ed did a great job in the design, with very good filtering and very low power consumption.

The IBE makes the SAP 180 all up weight something like 35-36 ozs. Very close in weight to an OS 160 set-up for example.

Glow engine pipes work fine with gasoline powered engines. Remember that the reflector must be about 3 " longer for gas than for glow fuel which means the set-up gets long and won't fit many planes. The ES 30 and 40G pipes have the reflector back to where needed so the external appearance and dimensions of a set-up are very similar to glow 2 strokes

BTW- Mintor makes a very nice aluminum pipe for their 37 cc engine that will work probably the same as the ES 30 and 40G pipes. I don't think they sell it alone...you have to buy the return to center header as well, I believe. The set-up is around the same cost of the ES pipe. The weight is reasonable at 4.6 ozs (vs 3.6 for the ES). Personally, I did not appreciate doing business with the people repping Mintor, however the product appears to be good.

Matt

We used a Macs header for the OS 140RX and it fit nicely. It was only necessary to open up the bolt holes a little bit. If I remember right, the OS header would fit the Mintor, so it probably would work. As for the pipe, it depends. ES makes pipes that are a little different for gas engine applications. I think Ed Skorepa refers to it as a reversed flow pipe. I don't have all the details, but you could email him from his website and ask. A glow engine pipe will probably work, however if it's a CF pipe, keep in mind that the exhaust from a gas engine is hotter than a glow engine. THe ES pipes can take it, not sure about every other brand.

Yep, this is really nifty, but I discovered that with the IBEC for the SAP 180 ignition, and the 2 reg/switches that I am going to come up one slot short on my 7-channel Rx![&o]

Is it kosher to use a "Y" lead for 2 of the items, say one of the reg leads into the Rx and the IBEC Y'ed together, or reg and throttle servo??

If not, I think I've got an 8-ch Rx around here somewhere...

[quote]ORIGINAL: cmoulder

Yep, this is really nifty, but I discovered that with the IBEC for the SAP 180 ignition, and the 2 reg/switches that I am going to come up one slot short on my 7-channel Rx![&o]

Is it kosher to use a ''Y'' lead for 2 of the items, say one of the reg leads into the Rx and the IBEC Y'ed together, or reg and throttle servo??

If not, I think I've got an 8-ch Rx around here somewhere...
[/quote

Bob,

I think the 7 ch should have enough terminals. Connect the IBE to the retract port, one of the regs to battery and the other to an aux channel. That should leave you with two ports unused. What else are you driving in your set-up??

Frankie Imbriaco came down to the field and help me get going today. Thank you Frank!

Got two in....these were full flights to empty tanks both times. Turning a 17x13 APC standard blade. Performance was really nice. I think I have the mixture settings just about where they need to be or very slightly rich. With the engine only broken in about halfway (about 1 gallon through it now) extended rolling verticals did not sag like they had with loads like the 17x13 provided before. For all practical purposes, vertical is unlimited on the 17x13.

The sound quality on the 17x13 is better, quieter, mellower, than on the 18.1x10 or 19x10. The 17x13 or 18x12 is about max load for the engine and the 10 inch pitches less load. But the 18.1x10 and 19x10 will work great too and produce good overall performance.

It looks like the main needle will need to be about 2 turns, 2 1/16 turns open. The low needle needs to be 1 3/8 to 1 7/16 opens for these higher load props. For sport apps, leaner settings probably will hold fine.

One thing I realized today is that it's probably a good idea to have a dedicated fuel line to the carb and a separate fill line. I've been having problems with losing the prime in my current set-up because I've been using the carb line to fill the tank. This particular Walbro doesn't seem to like that.

A good day of flying. I stole one in the middle of winter.

Matt

Thanks for the info. I'm a long way from final set up and I'm just checking options. I'll be very happy to just copy what others have done and and have proven to work. Anyway, isn't that the best form of flattery.

I have the 7-channel Futaba, but the last channel in the sequence is 7/B, so it isn't 7 channels and then another battery slot. Guess I will put one batt on 5 and one on 7 with IBEC.

Or wait for the 8-ch.

Good info on the prop and carb setting. I have a 17x13 APC Pattern and wonder how it would do vs the 17x13 standard. Thinking of running break-in with something with a little less pitch, and I have the 18.1x10 so maybe use that.

I got the Graphtech LG and wing tube today, so the completion is definitely in sight!

But I also couldn't resist the nice weather today and was out flying the Focus Sport.

Bob

Would you weigh the graph tech gear and let me know please?

thanks
Matt

Bob:
You can make a Y connection between the IBEC and a regulator. The Rx Power lead from the regulator to the receiver does not do anything actively with the signal wire (JR Orange, Futaba White, Hitec Yellow, Airtronics Blue). It's there to provide a path for radios that have DSC (Direct Servo Control) capability, or to allow the use of a bind plug and/or data monitor in the charging jack if it's a Spektrum type setup. So it's just a wiring pass through from the receiver's channel to the Charging / DSC / Bind / Data Monitor port. Thus, when you Y it with the IBEC, the signal is available for the IBEC to look at for ignition power On/Off control, same as it would be if you Y'ed it to a servo.

You could really pick any servo-type connection to Y a regulator to, it's just that things like DSC or binding will obviously only work if the regulator Rx Power lead is connected to the appropriate channel (Normally a designated battery plug location on the receiver).

According to F3A Unlimited website they should be about 5 ozs.

It is 4.5 oz, and the stock (Piedmont aluminum) gear is 5.7 oz.

The Graphtech is 1-piece so I will have to split it and maybe remove a bit from the center section make it fit. The Graphtech gear legs are also approx 1-1/2" longer than the stock legs.

That is very close, because the stock Bolly-style (#270) gear are 1-1/2" wide at the top, and they made them 1-1/4" wide to fit the Focus, therefore they are a bit lighter.

Good thanks. I needed a figure to assess where in the ballpark my gear are coming in at.

Matt

Okay, I was hoping you'd give your blessing to this practice.

Which brings me to the question of the choke servo, where I am running into the same dilemma with yet another Rx slot needed for that.

Matt has mentioned he is considering using a choke servo with his SAP 180, and I now have a servo I could use (HS-82MG) even though I am not totally wedded to the idea at this point.

Do you plan to use a servo or a choke rod? The way this choke plate is set up - with a spring, as opposed to the open/close butterfly with a detent - there will need to be some sort of catch on the choke rod to hold it closed when choking. This I have not yet figured out.

Which brings me to the question of the choke servo, where I am running into the same dilemma with yet another Rx slot needed for that.

Matt has mentioned he is considering using a choke servo with his SAP 180, and I now have a servo I could use (HS-82MG) even though I am not totally wedded to the idea at this point.

Do you plan to use a servo or a choke rod? The way this choke plate is set up - with a spring, as opposed to the open/close butterfly with a detent - there will need to be some sort of catch on the choke rod to hold it closed when choking. This I have not yet figured out.
[/quote]
Bob,

You hit on the one thing I don't like about the SAP 180. The choke rod at present must be held to close it , which, in an inverted installation, I have to literaly reach around to the bottom of the chin to pull the choke rod to closed position and hold it there while either rocking the prop or using the starter on it.

You are only supposed to do that until fuel is drawn to the carb and then flip the prop normally to start. Well, with the longish lines we need in a pattern set-up, it takes quite a bit of time to get the lines full on the first run and it is easier to use the starter for a couple seconds. Getting enough leverage to use the starter while holding the choke rod to closed is not trivial. You are bound to get some part of your clothing into the prop.

You are correct in thinking that some means of automatically holding the choke closed is a good idea. I also have been thinking of a simple way to do exactly what you describe that will not impede function in any way or hamper assembly-disassembly when removing the chin cowl

I currently use a nyrod. I'm wondering if we used a short length of beadchain attached to it and a cut a small vee on the outer nyrod, then we could bring the rod out to choke, and slip the beadchain into the vee to hold it closed. There's got to be an easier way

Matt

I am all ears on this, but I had an idea. What if you took the goldenrod, or even a piece of piano wire, going through a piece of "rubber" hose that had a tie wrap around it to provide just enough friction to hold the spring tension? Maybe just put a clamp around the outer jacket of the goldenrod? I haven't done it yet, but it is an idea that certainly won't cost much to try anyway.

Todd,
I understand your reasoning here. Can you come up with a solution to modify the butterfly shaft assembly to keep it from vibrating & wearing out for those who want / need to remove the spring ? Reaching around the prop to pull on the nyrod to close the choke while attempting to start the engine -even with an assistant presents potential danger for prop hand or arm contact as Matt pointed out. I have no doubt that Matt can come up with a solution for his particular application. But, a simple choke rod to open /close like we do with so many gas engines( my DA100 included) is really the best way to go, IMHO.

Since the choke rod hangs down, it would be possible to put a small hook or eyelet in the end of the choke rod and attach a little weight to it.

A little funky, but it would work.

The choke servo sounds nifty, but with all the vibration I could envision servo gears wearing out quickly and failure of the servo lead wires from constant flexing.

Not sure yet. I might do a mini servo on the choke. I think it will mostly depend on how things look like they will fit in the nose.

I have to do a starting video on the engine...
It is pretty easy to start using the choke on it...hopefully I can get it done soon.

That would be great!

Briefly, how do you keep the choke closed for starting?

Okay, thanks Ed.

I could make a servo fit, but in the summer with a gasser it is really needed only one time per day, so I think I'll go with the rod.

Nearing completion with the Focus, and if we get another gift from the weather gods next weekend I should be able to run the engine a bit and maybe even maiden.

After mounting the ES pipe, there is a fairly substantial amount of the last "tail" section hanging down.

I'm hoping it is okay to cut off a couple inches of it.

It's OK to cut some of the stinger off.