Your welcome junglelord!
You only get better by jumping into it and getting experiance

I fear that summer wil be a while from now......still snow, and ice on the lakes/pond [>:]


And yes it is the speed controle. But it realy isn`t very good.
Even though it is electronic, it increases speeds in small "steps"
My cheaper airplane speed controls have stepless, or smoothe regulating speed.......but they dont run backwards [8D]

But it should work for my aplication.

Just installed a whip antenna....dont want range problems.

maybe ill paint it if it strains my eyes too much in red [8D]


Also took a picture of the controle links on the underside of the bouat.

thanks for the pics SJN, and encouragement. i have a airplane speedcontrol (no reverse) but i may use it anyway. is your battery 6volts 5amps?
is your front dive plane RC? ARE U using the dynamic dive or going static? if static what system will you use?

Yes, it is the stock 6V 5Ah batt...

my front dive planes are "fixed". They have got a dab of CA glue to hold them in place, as I dont know what angle I should pre set them.

I can only controle the rudder and "elevator" or what you call it :-) at the rear .


Ill try and see how it goes.

I have deviated from the plan, and have glued my nose section permenantly on......so if I want to make the dive planes RC, then ill have to cut a new hatch in the bottom..

But lets see how it performes :-)

I cant sem to find the room for a static dive system, so ill keep mine stock.

maybe when it gets worn and needs an overhaul, ill figure something out :-)

hey SJN i have a website for static dive option
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302419
i am going to try RC for the front dive planes
i will either use the above "wet" system or i will try a RCABS system from ART BRODER.
http://groups.msn.com/ArtBrodersmodels/messages.msnw
if i try a RCABS system then i will build a superstructure like the submarine SEAVIEW from the old tv series and put the airbag in the superstructure, either that or try two airbags, one forward one behind, in the two water flood areas.
hope this is useful to you. talk soon

Fantastic!
I like the bag idea alot.

Realy brilliant. No need to invent the wheel twice, ill try that out when I get boared with the currnet setup!

Cheap and easy solution. Just make sure you dont pinch a hole in the bags, and the boat is bye bye


Thanks alot, realy helpfull

hi SJN, in the blueprint it seems that the third rubber boat is on a third control unit, but your third boot is on the drive shaft.
since i'm not that far along is the third control arm in the blueprint a second option for the second control arm (if you know what i mean)
if so then i will just silicon the rear shaft and use the third boot for the front dive planes. thanks and glad that the modifications were of help to you.

I have thrown away the instructions.

But I think the third rubber boot is for the on/off switch.

But Im not using it either. I planned on running my RX wire out of it, and seal it too.

Well, I don't know much about Subs, but I do own a Hobbico Sea Scout Micro Sub, which I now regret buying [:@]after seeing this beauty! It looks really nice. Hope you buy it and enjoy it! Really nice!
SamB

i have it built, now to ballast, and paint!
i am so glad i did this!
can't wait till i hit the lake.[8D]

JUST WANT TO SAY THANKS TO SJN
as it was your inspiration that got the ball rolling

Thanks Junglelord

Sonnich, have you finally tried your seawolf yet ?

I came across the following extraordinary stuff :

http://www.engel-modellbau.de/catalo...e5178ba482f28a

and finally found out that there was a "Submarines forum" on RCU !!

Does anyone know of a video link of the Seawolf please. I'd like to know what sort of speed is needed to make the boat dive. Thanks guys.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302419
both dynamic and static videos

Thanks Mate..

Ian.

As I’m new to this can you tell me

Whots the difference in the v1 and the v2

There is no motor/shaft included in the V1 kit.

Also its much easier to open/cloes the water tight hull on the V2 kit as it has been modified slightly.

Hi SJN - I supose you'll be getting pretty fed up with answering questions on the Seawolf soon, but if I could just pester you with a couple. I've just bought the V2 this weekend and will be starting with it soon but can you explain why the V2 has the hole in the front - I think perhaps it has something to do with making it easier to get into the electrics but perhaps I have misunderstood it - also am I right in thinking that to get into the watertight compartment four screws only have to be removed so that the tail end can slide out to get to the battery for charging. If it is fairly easy to get into I was wondering about not using the receiver switch extension out at the rear. I'd appreciate any help you could give me on this.

Many thanks,

Ian

Hi Ian.

Its much simpler to get into the WTC
The hole in the front is for the large hex bolt witch holds the two WTC part together. Lossen that single hex bolt in the nose, and the aft end of the WTC can be slid apart.


My seawolf is not in good shape at the moment. My prop shavft siezed up, and I had to cut in out of the sub. Im waiting for a replacement. I think that I did not lubricate it enough...

hope these pics help:

Thanks Sonnich - It looks as if it will be easier than I thought to get to the battery and the mains switch. I've looked carefully at your earlier photos and I can't see the rod for the switch - I wonder if you fitted yours or perhaps switch off when you take the battery out I suppose if you are having two or three sails in one visit it's easier to have an outer switch just to disconnect while someone else is using the frequency - anyway I'm sure all will be revealed eventually. Sorry to hear about your propshaft - I use Vaseline, I've been told by some of the fast racers that it does slow them down a bit but is generally very reliable - I used to get a few drops of water into my surface boat after a sailing session, but since I used Vaseline I have no problems (yet) I suppose the secret is to re-grease occasionally, but it easily forgotton when things are going OK. That's one thing about Robbe models - spares seem to be easy to get.

Thanks again Mate,

Ian

your welcome.

it takes 2 seconds to get into the WTC, so I jus installed my switch inside. Besides, after every run, I want to see if there is any water in it anyway


One thing I have done differnetly is the forward hull section. I have glued mine together because I could not get a good fit.......built it too quickly
It does make balancing a little dufficult when you have to install lead balast there. Also, if something ever goes wrong with the WTC bolt in there, I will be in trouble too :-)


Just build it exacly as the poor instructions say, and you wil be fine [sm=thumbup.gif]

Thanks again Sonnich - it's good to hear that it's easy to get into the WTC - I'm going to do as you did and not install the rod thingy for switching on. In any case it's another hole that isn't likely to let water in if it's not there.. I haven't started yet 'cos Ive spent quite a time reading the instructions and making the alterations from the supplement sheet. All your earlier photos have been good to see, and I'll be able to refer to them as I build. I take note about the nose cone, I'll try to carefully fit it without glue but I'm sure you will be able to split it if you really need to and then make up the repair with filler, but lets hope you don't need to do that.

Ian