I had to rewire all 3 of my of Clarks like I posted above to get them to work. After that they would take hits from all over, even in seperate rooms, they didnt seem to be accurate at all, the tanks didnt even need to be pointed at each other to take hits. I then installed Tamiya Battle Units with the Tamiya IR emitter. Now they work well and even work great with my BARC4/TBS mini in HL Tiger I. If you dont plan to battle other IR tanks, or not to worried about accuracy, the Taigen Apple will work fine, just rewire as posted above.

Thanks again, for all the help!
I am super frustrated this kind of thing should be clearly documented on their site... Or a pre wire kit that we would gladly pay for instead of being so frustrated and having to find out how to do this from a forum...

Tamiya Battle Units with the Tamiya IR emitter $170... will it ever end.

Try here, fast shipping, call them, even faster

https://shop.aaftankmuseum.com/Produ...ductCode=53447

Remember you dont HAVE TO have the Tamiya Battle Unit, The Taigen will work.
Maybe just try it out first to see how you like it.

I really wish Clark had clear instructions with some pictures. found the Tamiya IR for $170 on thier site... wow another $200

I would get it from AAF. The Clark instructions are on his site, just very hard to follow. Not for beginners thats for sure. I bought 3 Taigens at the same time and the Clarks to go with them, so take your frustrations and multiply that by 3!! I think thats why alot of the vetran tankers will tell you buy a Tamiya up front for your 1st tank, plug and play and proven. I have leaned alot in the 8 months of being a tanker myself, still tons to learn! I just got a new (to me) system in a HL Tiger I,, now Im learning that board too, BARC4/TBSmini.

I went with the Impact Battle Unit, which is almost indistinguishable from the Tamiya, and it was around 80 bucks. Works just fine.

Thank you for your help it is greatly appriciated.

Got remote and programming cable, set up per Clark site (exactly as shown) the led does not flash when programming. At least getting closer.

Any ideas if I get the thing to program that it will fix the recoil?

Rest functionality set up exactly as Clark site shows.

Thanks again,

Todd

So you have replaced the clear LED in the mantlet with a red one, replaced the mantlet LED with a clear one and pluged it into J1, installed a jumper on the recoil servo inner 2 two pins, plugged in battery and turned tank on, Radio TX off, batteries in remote, and still nothing? Now you are making me frustrated! I just checked all 3 of mine to doubble check the steps. Sorry I cant help you more. What is actually happening with your recoil? Have you checked your remote with a camera to make sure its working?

I am getting no recoil at all, I was told by clark all you needed was the programming cable into the IR port cn2 ?
And the jumper on the two inner pins of the recoil j2. I do not have any other led I suppose I could rig one up from a spare led tiger headlight.

To program recoil for taiga/hl which remote button? On Clark first page shows power is for servo elevation an second shows main gun function mode...

Well Clark should know. I was told by others to wire the LED in thats why I did it, and eventually went to a TBU instead. I looked at Clarks sight and did see the Program Cable that you speak of, so yes that should work. The power button, top right is your Main Gun Function Mode, you want this set to Tamiya Recoil Mode, which is 1 LED flash. That is after you have rewired the Asiatam recoil elevation kit. Sorry for the confusion on the earlier posts regarding the LED rewire, no one told me about the programming cable, I was told that was for Airsoft users.

Just in case it may help someone, here's the programming device I made for my TK22s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZByyYhJce0

Awesome work Gary!
I got all the programming completed,(have some strange issues with needing to play with pulling power using just the remote to get ricochet sound then powering off and placing the jumper to get it to interact and flash)

did not help my recoil issue though... getting closer and thank all of you very much for helping so very much!!!
Carl is looking into wiring diagram for me for the Taigen 360 turret slip ring configuration. Thank guy is awesome! Also considering getting the Clark elevation/Recoil kit. Has anyone had experience with it or is this another can of worms to open?

I had issues with wiring my Clarks in my T34 and Sherman because of the 360 turret wiring, I ended up bypassing some of the wires and running my own. Actually when I hooked it up stock, some wires began to smoke! I also have the Clark Elevation recoil kit in my tiger. Its ok, it took me alot of work to get it dialed in. Its made from 3D printed material and I found it to be very brittle. To me it took alot of cleanup on the parts to make them work smoothly. It may be normal, Ive never worked with 3D printed plastic. My gears have cracked and broke, I epoxied them and some of the the other parts and that has helped. The elevation is way too fast, you need to slow down the servo. Im going to try and build my own for my HL Tiger I. My Taigen Tiger with TK22 will sometimes fire the main gun when I shut off the TX.

Always, ALWAYS turn off the tank before you turn off the TX. Imagine if, instead of firing the main gun when you turn off the TX, it applies 100% throttle. And you just turned off your TX. Take no chances, my friend, turn the tank off first.

you will have to re wire the turret to the TK22 board or the barrel recoil WILL NOT WORK! , you have to re-wire as the "asiatam" unit on the clark website it is NOT plug and play or remote program only.. I just re-wired my taigen tiger I IR and now everything works correctly at first I had all the same problems as you do !

go here and scroll down until you see

"Asiatam recoil unit installation:"
and see this picture ,and then follow the instructions that follow

http://www.clark-model.com/chi/prod_rx20/asi_1.jpg

http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/index.html

Thanks again for all the help! This group has been amazing!

I am still having issues with the programming cable, that was sent to me...
Clark says it is not HIS programming cable and I am to the point of if the cable is ok that the board must be bad and either selling the thing to someone that is willing to do all the wiring and purchase the IBU2.
If the cable is bad and the board is good, I will purchase the soldering gun, cables, jumpers, etc... to get this up and running.

I agree these boards are NOT PLUG AND PLAY, and it clearly states that.
But, I do not think this hobbie should be one that you have to pull your hair out, it should be one of fun!

I want to start by saying THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL OF THE ASSISTANCE!!!

I contacted Clark directly, sent the programming cable back to the distributor for replacement.
Clark suggested I could have one of their destributores help with all the issues. I was thinking how amazing YES I will send the tank and get some help!

Contacted the vendor who wanted me to send the tank and then give me an estimate for cost to assist including labor, shipping, parts and anything else if needed.
I was hoping for better customer service.
Maybe discount on labor, or parts or shipping. (you know how heavy these full metal tanks are)
Any one of these would have made me happy to go forward.

But, as it is I am not going to send the tank and be out of it for another month... I would really have loved to keep this and support Clark's company.

Long story short is I ordered the IBU2 and will be putting the Clark board KT22 T1, remote and programming cable up on EBay and sell it.
If anyone is interested PM me I will send it your way.

Again thank you all for all of your help, this forum has a bunch of great members.

Todd

Sorry you had to go along the same path. If it's any consolation, I've just installed my 3rd IBU2 and haven't looked back. I will order another when I return from vacation. If you need any help with the IBU2 just PM me. I'll be glad to do what I can. And Ian is a great source and is always willing to help.

Awesome.!! Thank you!

There is a lot to be said for Keep it Simple.

Absolutely

I agree that Ian is great when it comes to customer service and tech support. If you haven't sold the TK22 yet we should talk. I'm thinking maybe you could send it here and I'll see if I can get it working, then I'll send it back and you can use it at a later date. Or, possibly do something like that with Strato. He's the TK22 guy and his signature does say he can fix it.