Tamiya Leopard 2a6 Build Thread
#26
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I'm from the school of 'buy once' for any tool I plan to use. Airbrush is doubly so. If you plan on using it, buy quality otherwise you'll be struggling all the way, screwing up your model and time.
No matter what anyone tells you, there is no way any copy of an airbrush is as good as the original and the 'I'll buy cheap and get another in a few years' is ridiculous.
I bought my first Iwata (HP-BC2) in 1986 from the original Pearl Paint in NYC. It's still all original, needle and nozzle and I used it last week and nearly every week over the 30 years. I bought two more over the years for different capacities and the only thing that has changed was the box is no longer wood. And the killer is, they are less expensive since the market is wide open now with the internet. Last one I bought came straight from the Home Islands for $147. My original was well north of $300.
No matter what anyone tells you, there is no way any copy of an airbrush is as good as the original and the 'I'll buy cheap and get another in a few years' is ridiculous.
I bought my first Iwata (HP-BC2) in 1986 from the original Pearl Paint in NYC. It's still all original, needle and nozzle and I used it last week and nearly every week over the 30 years. I bought two more over the years for different capacities and the only thing that has changed was the box is no longer wood. And the killer is, they are less expensive since the market is wide open now with the internet. Last one I bought came straight from the Home Islands for $147. My original was well north of $300.
Hrm, for me an el cheapo Air brush is ok because I don't plan on using it for that span of time although I understand the importance. I plan on using it only for this build and possibly a Tiger.
#27
Thanks again for the advice John, I wish I knew, I thought it would work since I see everyone using the 4YF. Can you please link to me what radio system I can use? Id appreciate it. I already bought the 4YF but I'm going to see if I can exchange it. I just recently purchased the stabilization unit and I really would like to have that functionality. So you mean both the receiver and transmitter of the 4YF I can't use right? Sorry Im new to this haha.
#28
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I really appreciate all the suggestions and feedback, it really helps. This model is certainly complex. Now Im worried about the radio and GBS situation working out.
I wanted to post some updates. Just finished building the drive gearbox. Man those parts are tiny. On 3 occasions pieces have flown out of my hands somewhere in my space. I can really admire the craftsmanship of this well thought out gearbox with 3 differentials.
Below is some of the tools I have as well as paints I will use.
I wanted to post some updates. Just finished building the drive gearbox. Man those parts are tiny. On 3 occasions pieces have flown out of my hands somewhere in my space. I can really admire the craftsmanship of this well thought out gearbox with 3 differentials.
Below is some of the tools I have as well as paints I will use.
#29
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Yea, it's hit or miss on this. Some have had problems with the trims on the 4YF not activating the various functions. (lights, stabiliaztion, etc) Even with the 75Mhz radio I still find it kinda testy on the 2A6. Unfortunately the 75Mhz version of the 4YF is hard to find these days. You can try looking on ebay for one though, search futaba T4YF and make sure it's 75mhz and not 72mhz.
Would I be able to just replace the receiver? or replace the crystal?
Last edited by fizzymike; 12-06-2016 at 09:29 AM.
#30
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=2555
#31
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2.4 Ghz systems don't have crystals. And while technically yea, you can put 75Mhz crystals in a 72Mhz TX and RX and it will function, It will drastically shorten range and you'll get some pretty good glitches so it's not recommended at all. The GBS still works with the 4YF it is just very finicky to get it engaged and disengaged via TX. Another option is to look at a r/c submarine pitch gyro if you could return the GBS. You would not be able to turn it on/off via TX but it does have a pot to adjust sensitivity. So when you have the turret top off putting in a battery you can get to it to either adjust sensitivity or turn it all the way down which essentially turns it off. You could stick with the 4YF then for sure.
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=2555
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=2555
#32
Build thread here if you need one:
http://www.sead.us/kitreviews.html
http://www.sead.us/leoreview.html
The Leo is (IMHO) the best Tamiya tank you can get engineering wise and reliability wise, much better than the WWII tanks. Also better than many other brand tanks.
I have battled extensively with the Leo's and they always perform well.
They have the most up time of any of my collection.
Oh, and they work very well with the 2.4GHz FAAST Futaba system if you want to use a PCM type radio.
http://www.sead.us/kitreviews.html
http://www.sead.us/leoreview.html
The Leo is (IMHO) the best Tamiya tank you can get engineering wise and reliability wise, much better than the WWII tanks. Also better than many other brand tanks.
I have battled extensively with the Leo's and they always perform well.
They have the most up time of any of my collection.
Oh, and they work very well with the 2.4GHz FAAST Futaba system if you want to use a PCM type radio.
#33
Build thread here if you need one:
http://www.sead.us/kitreviews.html
http://www.sead.us/leoreview.html
The Leo is (IMHO) the best Tamiya tank you can get engineering wise and reliability wise, much better than the WWII tanks. Also better than many other brand tanks.
I have battled extensively with the Leo's and they always perform well.
They have the most up time of any of my collection.
Oh, and they work very well with the 2.4GHz FAAST Futaba system if you want to use a PCM type radio.
http://www.sead.us/kitreviews.html
http://www.sead.us/leoreview.html
The Leo is (IMHO) the best Tamiya tank you can get engineering wise and reliability wise, much better than the WWII tanks. Also better than many other brand tanks.
I have battled extensively with the Leo's and they always perform well.
They have the most up time of any of my collection.
Oh, and they work very well with the 2.4GHz FAAST Futaba system if you want to use a PCM type radio.
Update: The Futaba FM Ground 4 Channel Radio that Tamiya USA recommended to me for both the Leo 2 and Type 10 builds, as recently as the Summer of 2015 and several years before is now discontinued. Prior, the Tamiya USA's tech told me that the Futaba FM Ground Radio worked best with the Leo 2A6 DMD to operate the Stabilization Unit, Lights and TBU. And as with the Leo 2, their message was the same, to operate the Type 10's TBU reliably, the Tamiya USA tech in 2015 recommended using a Futaba FM Ground Radio (to fix TBU operation issues as posted on rcu tanks by other builders using various make 2.4 radios, including the basic 4 channel Futaba 2.4 radio and the Japan Market Kit Tamiya 2.4 black radio).
I did read your Leopard build report a long while ago, before purchasing my Leo 2 kit, very well done report. Thank you. I used the Futaba 2.4 FAAST System in my 7 Channel Gepard Flakpanzer, another Daryl Turner commissioned collaboration project. Really a neat radio, but I also needed to buy a separate 300 page book and weeks of study to get good things to happen with the Gepard rc setup, as a new to the FAAST radio, but experienced user (large sailplanes).
So, just maybe, the expensive Futaba FAAST 2.4 Radio is now the best choice for a new Tamiya Leopard 2A6 rc build, if the builder wishes to reliably access all the models rc features.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CIEKBVY...I3OOF29ZX8ZYVH
My Opinion: I think Tamiya's flagship model's plug and play, reliable, electronic packages are somewhat dated now in regards to not operating all that well with a basic 2.4 radio. As an example, the Type 10 kit was kinda disappointing, the electronics package seemed cheap. While the new turret operating features were nice bells and whistles, still, I did not really care about them. What I did care about is that the Type 10 model carried over some of the vices of the Leo 2 and introduced a naked DMD circuit board to the build, which is a huge step backward.
John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 12-06-2016 at 03:03 PM.
#34
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Sollie is correct:
Sorting the interior turret wiring is a task and a half and the heavy tank NiMH Battery once placed in the Leo turret will either warp the turret over time and or cause it to immediately sag to the rear, causing the turret to drag or get hung up on the rear deck.
I like the battery placed in the hull solution, that was the main take away tip from the various rc tank forums, a few years back that I received, before my Leo 2 build. Daryl Turner did this custom one off modification to my Leo 2, unique at the time and above my modeling design and fabrication skill level. It works great for easy battery swaps. You can look at your build instructions and figure out your own direct solution to achieve similar results, if that modification is important to you.
NiMH Battery Recommend:
The DuraTrax 7.2V Onyx 4200mAh NiMH Battery DTXC2061 works for me, "lipos" are not a very good or safe idea in my hands

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Duratrax-Onyx-NiMH-6-Cell-7-2V-4200mAh-Stick-Battery-Pack-Standard-Plug-DTXC-/322271694700?hash=item4b08e3cf6c:g:A54AAOSw8w1X5nk j
Important Tips; Tamiya Leopard 2A6 RC Radio Selection.
A. Futaba 4YF-2.4 Channel Radio System, not that great with the Leo 2.
If you are NOT installing a Tamiya Battle Unit, using the Tamiya Main Gun Stabilization Unit or accessing the complex stick controlled lighting features on the Leo, a Futaba 4YF-2.4 will still work for basic driving and shooting and work poorly for everything else. The Futaba 4YF 2.4 does need "one" self centering stick upgrade kit. Get the needed Futaba 2.4 stick parts here by calling and placing your order:
Hobby Services
Champaign, IL
217 398 0007
Futaba 4YF-2.4 Self Centering Stick Parts.
1. HSP78901. 1M10A18201. Swing Arm ST-53, QTY 1
2. HSP67450. 8M00F01002. Spring ST-41, QTY 1.
B. Futaba 4YF-FM 4 Channel Ground Radio System, best choice with the Leo 2.
Tamiya USA highly recommends using the Futaba 4YF-FM 4 Channel Ground Radio if you are using all the tanks features and want to achieve trouble free working access to the TBU, Stabilization Unit and the stick controlled lighting. The FM Ground radio does not need a self centering stick kit.
My Leopard 2A6 build brief is here:
http://www.rctankregiment.com/rctank...=2247&start=20
Great fun to build and run, enjoy the process.
John
2.4 Ghz systems don't have crystals. And while technically yea, you can put 75Mhz crystals in a 72Mhz TX and RX and it will function, It will drastically shorten range and you'll get some pretty good glitches so it's not recommended at all. The GBS still works with the 4YF it is just very finicky to get it engaged and disengaged via TX. Another option is to look at a r/c submarine pitch gyro if you could return the GBS. You would not be able to turn it on/off via TX but it does have a pot to adjust sensitivity. So when you have the turret top off putting in a battery you can get to it to either adjust sensitivity or turn it all the way down which essentially turns it off. You could stick with the 4YF then for sure.
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=2555
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=2555
Hi Guys would you be able to temm me if this one would work fine?
#35
#36
Yea, that's the model. That looks to be a 72Mhz though. Also, both sticks are NOT self centering, that's an easy fix and I can send you the spring and new arm.
Last edited by TheBennyB; 12-06-2016 at 04:34 PM.
#37
#38
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Thanks guys for the confirmation. I called Tamiya earlier today because I was curious as to what modern radio they can recommend especially with the GBS. He confirmed the basic 4YF is not compatible with advanced features and that the Tamiya Attack is the best way to go with out issue. He also said they have had some issues with Futuba radios but the 4YF-FM will work fine. I did notice thats its also not self centering so hopefully ill buy the conversion kit soon. Managed to get the 4YF-FM off eBay for 120. Not bad, and I hate the way the Tamiya attack looks. Just hideous.
#39
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I have ordered an AFV Hull reinforcement kit, do you guys think the AFV track tensioner is the way to go? Or is it compatible with other track adjusters listed in this thread? Says must be used with the AFV ones but now im wondering if it would work with stock.
Last edited by fizzymike; 12-06-2016 at 05:52 PM.
#40
So would you guys recommend the tamiya attack radio that came with my JS-2 kit? It is basically a 2.4 futaba HYWD radio that uses the 204gf receiver. I bought an extra receiver and it works great in the JS -2 and Pershing. I have my 2A6 currently hooked up to my spektrum dx6-i.
#41
So would you guys recommend the tamiya attack radio that came with my JS-2 kit? It is basically a 2.4 futaba HYWD radio that uses the 204gf receiver. I bought an extra receiver and it works great in the JS -2 and Pershing. I have my 2A6 currently hooked up to my spektrum dx6-i.
My main issue is that the Futaba 2.4 4YF basic Silver Radio would not operate the Leo 2A6 stabilization unit.
Much later, in the Summer of 2015, I bought the Type 10 rc tank kit from Banzai Hobby. That kit came with the same Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio as packaged in your JS-2 kit and did not work consistently with Type 10 DMD + TBU.
The Futaba Skysport 2.4 4YF Silver Radio also did not operate the Type 10 tank DMD + TBU very well, which was a similar issue found with the Leo 2A6, but DMD + Stabilization Unit is the problem (did not access the stabilizer at all).
The Futaba FM 4YF Ground Radio works perfectly in both my Leo 2 and Type 10 builds, operating all systems without fault.
Opinion: The Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio works perfectly with my Tamiya JS-2 and Pershing DMD, MF, TBU Systems. as you have found out. The radio does seem cheap, doesn't look good and the trim tab movement operates rough in my examples. So, the Tamiya 2.4 HYWD Black Radio is not much of a deal and it costs more than the Futaba Skysport 2.4 4YF RC Radio.
#42
Worth noting the turret sagging issue can be easily overcome by placing a piece of plasticard on the bit of the turret that lifts off at the rear. This provides some support and is a quick and easy solution which should do away with lipos and relocating batteries etc (although lipos are fine in rc tanks as long as they're not abused and you use a low voltage alarm).
#43
I added a bolt at the rear to solve the sagging problem.
Actually with all the packing of wires and components, that's what really causes the buldging.
A couple screws at the rear to hold the turret cover to the mounting plate works fine in my experience.
Actually with all the packing of wires and components, that's what really causes the buldging.
A couple screws at the rear to hold the turret cover to the mounting plate works fine in my experience.
#44
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I thought I would post an interesting find. Saw this full metal lower hull and I haven't really seen this before for the Tamiya Leopard.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fully-Metal-...0AAOSwj85YOAdj
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fully-Metal-...0AAOSwj85YOAdj
#45
If that works for you all, OK, but those three posted alternative kluged solutions, seem to be less than elegant turret design fixes and really do not address the Tamiya Leo design flaw; battery placement.
Operational Empirical Observation: The turret base in my Leo 2, going on six years old now, is straight as an arrow with the DMD, servo, stabilizer and wiring in place, but with no sag, no warping, no kluged fixes and also no tank battery on it (primary culprit). Just as important, during IR play battery swap outs the lift deck solution is great, because it is not awkward to do or use.
And submitted to better upset the Tamiya Leo 2 builder herd and for design consideration for "fizzymike's" build: a Leo 2 hinged DMD hatch cover by "DT" for easy access during battle games, plus you will not misplace the hatch cover.

Merry Christmas,
John
Operational Empirical Observation: The turret base in my Leo 2, going on six years old now, is straight as an arrow with the DMD, servo, stabilizer and wiring in place, but with no sag, no warping, no kluged fixes and also no tank battery on it (primary culprit). Just as important, during IR play battery swap outs the lift deck solution is great, because it is not awkward to do or use.
And submitted to better upset the Tamiya Leo 2 builder herd and for design consideration for "fizzymike's" build: a Leo 2 hinged DMD hatch cover by "DT" for easy access during battle games, plus you will not misplace the hatch cover.

Merry Christmas,
John
#46
I did not try the Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio with my Leo 2. So, I do not know. I would guess not though, why?
My main issue is that the Futaba 2.4 4YF basic Silver Radio would not operate the Leo 2A6 stabilization unit.
Much later, in the Summer of 2015, I bought the Type 10 rc tank kit from Banzai Hobby. That kit came with the same Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio as packaged in your JS-2 kit and did not work consistently with Type 10 DMD + TBU.
The Futaba Skysport 2.4 4YF Silver Radio also did not operate the Type 10 tank DMD + TBU very well, which was a similar issue found with the Leo 2A6, but DMD + Stabilization Unit is the problem (did not access the stabilizer at all).
The Futaba FM 4YF Ground Radio works perfectly in both my Leo 2 and Type 10 builds, operating all systems without fault.
Opinion: The Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio works perfectly with my Tamiya JS-2 and Pershing DMD, MF, TBU Systems. as you have found out. The radio does seem cheap, doesn't look good and the trim tab movement operates rough in my examples. So, the Tamiya 2.4 HYWD Black Radio is not much of a deal and it costs more than the Futaba Skysport 2.4 4YF RC Radio.
My main issue is that the Futaba 2.4 4YF basic Silver Radio would not operate the Leo 2A6 stabilization unit.
Much later, in the Summer of 2015, I bought the Type 10 rc tank kit from Banzai Hobby. That kit came with the same Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio as packaged in your JS-2 kit and did not work consistently with Type 10 DMD + TBU.
The Futaba Skysport 2.4 4YF Silver Radio also did not operate the Type 10 tank DMD + TBU very well, which was a similar issue found with the Leo 2A6, but DMD + Stabilization Unit is the problem (did not access the stabilizer at all).
The Futaba FM 4YF Ground Radio works perfectly in both my Leo 2 and Type 10 builds, operating all systems without fault.
Opinion: The Tamiya Attack 2.4 HYWD Black Radio works perfectly with my Tamiya JS-2 and Pershing DMD, MF, TBU Systems. as you have found out. The radio does seem cheap, doesn't look good and the trim tab movement operates rough in my examples. So, the Tamiya 2.4 HYWD Black Radio is not much of a deal and it costs more than the Futaba Skysport 2.4 4YF RC Radio.
#47
Thanks guys for the confirmation. I called Tamiya earlier today because I was curious as to what modern radio they can recommend especially with the GBS. He confirmed the basic 4YF is not compatible with advanced features and that the Tamiya Attack is the best way to go with out issue. He also said they have had some issues with Futuba radios but the 4YF-FM will work fine. I did notice thats its also not self centering so hopefully ill buy the conversion kit soon. Managed to get the 4YF-FM off eBay for 120. Not bad, and I hate the way the Tamiya attack looks. Just hideous.
#48
Take it easy Ghost Rider, the pattern isn't full. I wasn't questioning your choice, I just wanted to know if my Tamiya radio would be AS good so I wouldn't have to replace it to get full function in my Leo. After reading your opinion, I will look at buying a FM4YF so I get everything to work consistently which is my main goal. I wonder why Tamiya would package a radio that does not operate all the functions of the kit it is placed with?
#49

I use a spectrum dx6i 2.4ghz with my Tamiya leopard and all the functions work with the radio setting the end points on the sticks up correctly.
I have also used a planet T5, again 2.4ghz and have installed fire switches for the lights, gun, machine gun, and it works for the turret lock on too with the Type 10.
I have also used a planet T5, again 2.4ghz and have installed fire switches for the lights, gun, machine gun, and it works for the turret lock on too with the Type 10.


