Tamiya Leopard 2a6 Build Thread
12-07-2016, 02:45 PM
#51
I use a spectrum dx6i 2.4ghz with my Tamiya leopard and all the functions work with the radio setting the end points on the sticks up correctly.
I have also used a planet T5, again 2.4ghz and have installed fire switches for the lights, gun, machine gun, and it works for the turret lock on too with the Type 10.
I have also used a planet T5, again 2.4ghz and have installed fire switches for the lights, gun, machine gun, and it works for the turret lock on too with the Type 10.
12-07-2016, 08:59 PM
#54
Hobby Services
Champaign, IL
Phone: 217 398 0007
Futaba FM Receiver Part Numbers, 4 Channel (http://www.futabarc.com/systems/futj40.html):
R168DF Receiver: (72MHz FUTL0832, 75MHz FUTL0833)
Futaba Contact Info:
Futaba
3002 N. APOLLO DRIVE, SUITE #1
CHAMPAIGN, IL 61822
‐ Additional Contact Information ‐
Web Site: http://www.futaba-rc.com/
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 217-398-8970
12-07-2016, 09:10 PM
#55
John
12-08-2016, 08:00 AM
#56
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John thanks for your input. I've seen you in previous threads and you give great advice.
This weekend I plan to prime the hull, deck, turret and bore. For some of the smaller parts that are usually air brushed, do you guys prime those too?
This weekend I plan to prime the hull, deck, turret and bore. For some of the smaller parts that are usually air brushed, do you guys prime those too?
12-08-2016, 08:07 AM
#57
The 2a6 has lots of hull detail parts. Gotta make sure you don't get ahead of yourself on painting otherwise when it's time to assemble you gluing paint to paint. Never good. For instance on the lower hull make sure all your swing arm stops, support wheel housings, etc. are glued on before priming.
12-08-2016, 12:51 PM
#59
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Get Futaba Parts Here:
Hobby Services
Champaign, IL
Phone: 217 398 0007
Futaba FM Receiver Part Numbers, 4 Channel (http://www.futabarc.com/systems/futj40.html):
R168DF Receiver: (72MHz FUTL0832, 75MHz FUTL0833)
Futaba Contact Info:
Futaba
3002 N. APOLLO DRIVE, SUITE #1
CHAMPAIGN, IL 61822
‐ Additional Contact Information ‐
Web Site: http://www.futaba-rc.com/
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 217-398-8970
Hobby Services
Champaign, IL
Phone: 217 398 0007
Futaba FM Receiver Part Numbers, 4 Channel (http://www.futabarc.com/systems/futj40.html):
R168DF Receiver: (72MHz FUTL0832, 75MHz FUTL0833)
Futaba Contact Info:
Futaba
3002 N. APOLLO DRIVE, SUITE #1
CHAMPAIGN, IL 61822
‐ Additional Contact Information ‐
Web Site: http://www.futaba-rc.com/
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 217-398-8970
12-08-2016, 05:33 PM
#60
The 2a6 has lots of hull detail parts. Gotta make sure you don't get ahead of yourself on painting otherwise when it's time to assemble you gluing paint to paint. Never good. For instance on the lower hull make sure all your swing arm stops, support wheel housings, etc. are glued on before priming.
What Benny said!
Keep the paint very thin at the gun/turret bore entrance and on the main gun barrel where it slides back and forth or you can hurt recoil performance.
Look above on this thread and find the post where I posted web addresses. They will show photos on how the major detail parts where separated out and painted etc. You need to plan your paint steps carefully. If the plastic is super clean and your doing NATO green over green plastic, you can getaway without primer.
I like Tamiya rattle can gray primer and Tamiya Metal Primer for large part coverage. Though, apply in a thin coat.
John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 12-08-2016 at 05:42 PM.
12-09-2016, 06:38 AM
#61
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Note:
Look above on this thread and find the post where I posted web addresses. They will show photos on how the major detail parts where separated out and painted etc. You need to plan your paint steps carefully. If the plastic is super clean and your doing NATO green over green plastic, you can getaway without primer.
I like Tamiya rattle can gray primer and Tamiya Metal Primer for large part coverage. Though, apply in a thin coat.
John
Look above on this thread and find the post where I posted web addresses. They will show photos on how the major detail parts where separated out and painted etc. You need to plan your paint steps carefully. If the plastic is super clean and your doing NATO green over green plastic, you can getaway without primer.
I like Tamiya rattle can gray primer and Tamiya Metal Primer for large part coverage. Though, apply in a thin coat.
John
12-09-2016, 06:49 AM
#62
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Ok so yesterday I was working on the shock absorbers and the suspension. Everything seems to look ok except for the fact that I royally F***ED up a detailing piece on the front two absorbers. Seems I wasnt paying much attention since I was tired. I accidentally used the shock absorber cover from tree B instead of tree C for the front, so now it looks the same as the others. I even used Tamiya Instant cement. Im aware that it dissolves the plastic and rebonds them. I tried but I dont think that its going to come off with out yanking it or sawing it. I really would like to have this model accurate but at this point I dont think there is much that I can do. Im thinking I should leave it, do u guys think so too or should I try to get it off.
12-10-2016, 08:56 PM
#63
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Yea, it's hit or miss on this. Some have had problems with the trims on the 4YF not activating the various functions. (lights, stabiliaztion, etc) Even with the 75Mhz radio I still find it kinda testy on the 2A6. Unfortunately the 75Mhz version of the 4YF is hard to find these days. You can try looking on ebay for one though, search futaba T4YF and make sure it's 75mhz and not 72mhz.
12-12-2016, 06:51 AM
#71
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Thanks benny, I guess its just that cosmetic difference on the first road wheel shock absorber that bothers me. I might try to make it look like the correct piece with some putty or trim it from the original piece.
As of yesterday I have the support wheels, suspension and road wheels all assembled and installed. Im going to prime and paint the lower hull with the wheels attached. Or do you think I should take them off and do separate.
As of yesterday I have the support wheels, suspension and road wheels all assembled and installed. Im going to prime and paint the lower hull with the wheels attached. Or do you think I should take them off and do separate.
12-12-2016, 09:33 PM
#72
Thanks benny, I guess its just that cosmetic difference on the first road wheel shock absorber that bothers me. I might try to make it look like the correct piece with some putty or trim it from the original piece.
As of yesterday I have the support wheels, suspension and road wheels all assembled and installed. Im going to prime and paint the lower hull with the wheels attached. Or do you think I should take them off and do separate.
As of yesterday I have the support wheels, suspension and road wheels all assembled and installed. Im going to prime and paint the lower hull with the wheels attached. Or do you think I should take them off and do separate.
I just checked!
12-13-2016, 08:05 AM
#74
I'd definitely take the rubber tires off the road wheels. Other than that wouldn't worry about it too much. Not much is visible on the lower hull once you get the tracks on and get it a bit dirty anyways.
12-13-2016, 09:11 AM
#75