Tamiya Leopard 2a6 Build Thread
12-13-2016, 09:25 AM
#76
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Have you guys considered adding a slip ring to the center turret to avoid cable tangle? I think im going to go that route and solder the connections then shrink tube them. Only have seen a couple people do this on the Tamiya Leopard but plenty for hl. Im going to try and order an 18 circuit capsule slip ring I think.
Also waiting for my AFV detail parts to come in. I started to notice that this thing is going to way a ton. I hope the weight doesnt cause the suspension to sag over time.
Also waiting for my AFV detail parts to come in. I started to notice that this thing is going to way a ton. I hope the weight doesnt cause the suspension to sag over time.
12-13-2016, 10:34 AM
#77
just grab a chunk of 2X4 or something similar to put under the hull while it's on the shelf. Will keep it off it's suspension. I have Tamiya tanks well over a decade old and have never noticed any suspension drop, though have never really put them next to a new build either.
12-13-2016, 03:38 PM
#79
The problem with the radio is the digital trim. Other Futaba Attacks and the rebranded Attacks Tamiya includes with their home island kits have analog trims that are instant.
The only drawback is they might not respond as quick when panning between elevation and fire or MG fire. There are easy workarounds with setup via travel limits, but most guys who battle eventually install momentary switches to fire anyway.
Don't be discouraged by the Tx.
The only drawback is they might not respond as quick when panning between elevation and fire or MG fire. There are easy workarounds with setup via travel limits, but most guys who battle eventually install momentary switches to fire anyway.
Don't be discouraged by the Tx.
12-13-2016, 05:03 PM
#80
If you do a search on rcu tanks you will discover the radio you purchased is not recommended for Tamiya rc tanks. Like the above Tamiya printed notice says, the radio you purchased is best used with Tamiya rc big rig trucks.
You will not be happy with the function delay as you try to access various effects like cannon fire etc. If your OK with a poorly functioning Leo 2, well no harm then.
Why not take the radio back to the store, this is not new news, and tell them they sold you the wrong radio for your kit. Print out the Tamiya notice above and take it with you, if you do not have the blue notice sheet that came with your Leopard 2 kit. Do not give up that easy.
John
You will not be happy with the function delay as you try to access various effects like cannon fire etc. If your OK with a poorly functioning Leo 2, well no harm then.
Why not take the radio back to the store, this is not new news, and tell them they sold you the wrong radio for your kit. Print out the Tamiya notice above and take it with you, if you do not have the blue notice sheet that came with your Leopard 2 kit. Do not give up that easy.
John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 12-13-2016 at 05:09 PM.
12-13-2016, 08:14 PM
#81
The problem with the radio is the digital trim. Other Futaba Attacks and the rebranded Attacks Tamiya includes with their home island kits have analog trims that are instant.
The only drawback is they might not respond as quick when panning between elevation and fire or MG fire. There are easy workarounds with setup via travel limits, but most guys who battle eventually install momentary switches to fire anyway.
Don't be discouraged by the Tx.
The only drawback is they might not respond as quick when panning between elevation and fire or MG fire. There are easy workarounds with setup via travel limits, but most guys who battle eventually install momentary switches to fire anyway.
Don't be discouraged by the Tx.
12-13-2016, 08:15 PM
#82
If you do a search on rcu tanks you will discover the radio you purchased is not recommended for Tamiya rc tanks. Like the above Tamiya printed notice says, the radio you purchased is best used with Tamiya rc big rig trucks.
You will not be happy with the function delay as you try to access various effects like cannon fire etc. If your OK with a poorly functioning Leo 2, well no harm then.
Why not take the radio back to the store, this is not new news, and tell them they sold you the wrong radio for your kit. Print out the Tamiya notice above and take it with you, if you do not have the blue notice sheet that came with your Leopard 2 kit. Do not give up that easy.
John
You will not be happy with the function delay as you try to access various effects like cannon fire etc. If your OK with a poorly functioning Leo 2, well no harm then.
Why not take the radio back to the store, this is not new news, and tell them they sold you the wrong radio for your kit. Print out the Tamiya notice above and take it with you, if you do not have the blue notice sheet that came with your Leopard 2 kit. Do not give up that easy.
John
12-13-2016, 08:20 PM
#83
If you can take the radio back for full refund that'll be the way to go. If not, it WILL still work. You'll just have to learn the tx a bit on the trim and endpoint settings to get it to operate the aux functions. For the most part these are all novelty functions anyways, Like Ausf said, don't be discouraged if you can't return it. Other than turning the stabilizer on/off all the light/drive modes can be switched on the DMD/MF manually as well. Yes, this isn't practical in the middle of an IR battle, but it's there and these settings would usually be set before a battle.
12-13-2016, 08:26 PM
#84
Also, just as a heads up for the new Tamiya 2A6 builders. If your planning on IR battling the 2A6 the electronics institiute a one second pause to all functions when you take a hit. It's not broken, just how it is. Gotta keep on the move and use the speed of this sucker, otherwise a medium sherman will do circles around you while lighting your apple up.
12-14-2016, 05:27 AM
#85
If you can take the radio back for full refund that'll be the way to go. If not, it WILL still work. You'll just have to learn the tx a bit on the trim and endpoint settings to get it to operate the aux functions. For the most part these are all novelty functions anyways, Like Ausf said, don't be discouraged if you can't return it. Other than turning the stabilizer on/off all the light/drive modes can be switched on the DMD/MF manually as well. Yes, this isn't practical in the middle of an IR battle, but it's there and these settings would usually be set before a battle.
12-14-2016, 07:42 AM
#86
The radio is programmable so you wouldn't have problems programing and to avoid the use of the trims.
I have done with Futaba 6J and Turnigy.
It works better and you don't need to use the trims.
I have done with Futaba 6J and Turnigy.
It works better and you don't need to use the trims.
12-15-2016, 08:47 AM
#87
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Hi Guys what do you think of this idea. Adding a micro FPV camera and micro transmitter to the upper hull. I was thinking perhaps it would fit in the commanders periscope but I guess slim chance. My Idea was to have the have the camera feed video directly to a receiver with screen on the controller. The camera and receiver are not that expensive. Perhaps I could use a second antennae as a functioning video antennae.
12-15-2016, 10:08 AM
#88
Hi Guys what do you think of this idea. Adding a micro FPV camera and micro transmitter to the upper hull. I was thinking perhaps it would fit in the commanders periscope but I guess slim chance. My Idea was to have the have the camera feed video directly to a receiver with screen on the controller. The camera and receiver are not that expensive. Perhaps I could use a second antennae as a functioning video antennae.
12-15-2016, 11:52 AM
#89
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Just in my experience the novelty wears off pretty quick. Once you lose peripheral vision and are operating in the first person you start running into stuff and it actually gets boring to me since you don't get to see the suspension working or the various functions. To each their own though and yea, you can get fpv setup's pretty cheap these days. Just put a fpv setup in my excavator, used it twice and took it out.
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true, we shall see, idk if the periscope is big enough anyways.
12-18-2016, 09:09 PM
#90
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I bought a KYC-18 slip ring, should get it soon. One of my concerns is that the wire Tamiya uses for the motors is 16awg and the wires for the slip ring are 28awg. dodoslovensko from you tube pointed this out to me. awg28=1.25A 16awg=35A. Product says its rated at 2amps. Is this enough to run the motors without burning out the wires?
