True enough. But if the tracks were made of a ferrous metal that could rust/tarnish/oxidize, then, on the parts of the track that didn't come into contact with the ground, you could have some rather realistic weathering. As for spare track sections that are often mounted on the hull, some real rust would be nice.

But in general, I'm not talking about heavy rust that is a sign of neglect but just a light "dusting" so to speak.

some track are made from a manganese/steel combination and did not rust very much

Nice one james

Brel hope you haven't ordered them PZIII springs[sm=red_smile.gif][sm=red_smile.gif][sm=red_smile.gif]

I did not order any PZIII springs I was going to but decided to wait and see if the pershing would sit down at the back like you said and it did not so no springs

Went through all that when looking for a way to make the front suspension of the Pershing sag like the Super Pershing.

Had HL used the thicker springs for the BullDog in the same manner as they did for the Pershing it wouldn't sag with metal tracks.

There are posts about this back in early 2007 or so.

Am I forgiven [&o][&o][&o]

for what

Telling you a porky about the springs [sm=red_smile.gif]

every now and then duff information is handed out so there is no reason to ask for forgiveness, but in this case you are forgiven, But only if you sit on the naughty step for ten minutes ROFLMAO

ROFLMAO

thanks for te information Swathdiver

I have put the plastic tracks and sprockets on Ebay and if they don't sell, I will chuck them in the recycleing bin

Swath, I believe I have seen you post about putting some weight in the front of the hull to balance things out a bit, or to increase traction, what exactly did you use to do this? Any one else have some experience with this also?

I added about 3/4's of a pound of lead in the tank and placed it either side of the speaker also took a link out of each track to stop them being thrown off on grass. still got to get some green paint for the drive sprockets. Iput the plastic tracks and drive sprockets on E-bay and sold them for £20.

Nice work

thanks, where can I get a dummy machine gun for the hull to replace the pathetic set up so that the led is in the gun instead of below it

try here: [link=http://www.tank-modellbau.de/]http://www.tank-modellbau.de/[/link]

Fishing weights secured with clear RTV.

thanks for the link, I have ordered a hull machine gun and one for the turret too

Does that site have a english version to it ?

Hey man, that's cheating. [:'(]

Just use the original bow MG, plug up the LED hole, drill out the original barrel or use a section of aluminum or brass K&S tubing and drill the cooling holes...

That's taking the easy way out. []

no. you have to use babel fisc to translate

you can lengthen the barrel and still use the airsoft function. I cut my middle section out and replaced it with a narrower/longer brass tube. the inner aluminium barrel slides inside it. It worked(and looked) great

Huh? I was speaking of the .30 cal MG barrel and making it look better and/or fabricating some pieces to make it better than what HL provided (See pic).

But this lengthening of the main (airsoft) gun barrel whilst retaining the airsoft function is intriguing. Can you elaborate on its construction? Is the brass tube now acting as the outer barrel or have you put a section of styrene tubing over the brass tube to make it match the rest of the barrel?

Got any pictures of this airsoft barrel upgrade?

I got the parts for the hull and coax machine guns today and will fit them in-between building the Jagdpanther sesions