Just a comment and a question, my TBU's will score a hit at 10 feet or closer pretty much no matter where you aim, so wouldn't the hatch blocking the apple be a mute point inside of ten feet?? Don't know, just asking.

Exactly, so inside 10' TFA is no longer effective so he should be able to get hit in the ass. The hatch will block this and make it invulnerable up to a point. Yea it'll probably take a hit if your 1-2 feet away and off to the side a bit but not further out.

I hear ya.

It's a lose-lose situation because even if you win the battle, they'll be skepticism involved.

My T1 is retired from battle since I mounted the skeletal TC, but that hatch still has the Aber details from the original build, so it's fully functional with the retaining clip and spring assist. There's no way I'd pull it off to battle.

The landing Sherman vents were removable (as are riders) so they shouldn't be considered part of the tank design.

I look at it as the same as the tank choice. My son will always choose a 105 M4 over a JS-2 because he knows he can spin that turret so much faster than swinging that telephone pole around. If a T1 is less vulnerable from the right side, then that's how it should be battled. Although, I can't even pull off the turret turn to 45 half the time so the idea I could use the TC hatch lid like a Captain America shield is pretty funny. :)

Another idea on the hatch: anyway you could mount the hinge against the roof with magnets? Maybe tabs out to the side? You could pop it off for battle, back on for regular drive/display.

OK, thanks Benny. I haven't tried shooting at my Jagdpanzer IV from the rear with the hatch up blocking the apple, will have to try.

Also remember we're talking about an apple using TFA. The prism inside the apple has been rotated 45 degrees.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRxbLmF56Gs

Thanks for the video, I've seen it in the past. I never knew before seeing that video that it was possible to do that to the apple.

the rotation unit is installed
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178332
the main gun is assembled
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178333
The cable for the headlight in place
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178334
some pics of the hatches and periscopes
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178335http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178336

Nice work, you're getting closer now, looks great.

the electronics are mostly installed, still need to mount the Hull MG. space is a cramped, i dont like the flimsy elevation mount, the gun wobbles a lot, there isn't a spring at the rear of the recoil unit like on other tamiya tanks.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178365http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178366http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178367

here is the JPz with the gun mantlet and muzzle brake mounted. Hopefully tomorrow the speaker and gearboxes will get mounted.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178371http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178372http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178373http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178374

That is one "bad ass" looking tank hunter. I can't imagine having the L70 gun. It would be too long for this size tank.

Sounds like a another part for Daryl to improve on. If you make the trunion/traverse bracket out of aluminum should reduce some deflection. This was the same problem with the JP.

Very neat and tidy work. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.png





Jeff

I haven't built the JP, but i think the problem is at least twofold: one, is how they have the elevation arm with that flimsy bent piece of metal that hooks into the recoil mount and second, the whole system isn't balanced well, i cant imagine how it would flop around with even the longer barrel.

i have made a more solid elevation arm with some extra parts, it helps but doesn't completely fix the problem.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178469http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178470http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178471http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178472

The gearboxes, MF, DMD, and speaker installed. I like to use the foam around the outshafts to help prevent dust and debris from getting inside the tank.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178478http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178479http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178480http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178481

The tank hunter with tracks.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178485http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178486

Looks nice!!!

Bad to the bone!

The hull schruzen brackets i added 1mm brass bolts to replace the molded on bolts heads as well as to add a little more bracing, hopefully they will stay on better.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178544http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178545http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178546

dreaded pin holes, the side skirts are easy enough to fix, the brackets, not so much. Hopefully they wont be noticed with the schruzen on.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178548http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2178549

Hi, I just saw the wires for the headligt. Is it a working light? If so, where can I buy a wire like that? I would like to install something similar in my tanks.

its not a working headlight and the cable is a wire Christmas tree ornament hanger.

Will, did you zim the "sissy skirts"?

i did not zimm, i haven't found any pics with them zimmed.