ESM FW D-9
03-12-2014, 03:39 PM
#2601
.......i will have to AGREE with McCrazy!!!. in all over "RC UNIVERSE" i see that you consider spending a fortune for retracts like something to be inevitable. Sorry HoundDog but here in Europe, we know different maths than you do ....Have you ever listen anything about EUROKIT; Here in Europe its the BEST COMPANY FOR MAKING RETRACTS AT HALF THE PRICE YOU PAY THERE. AND ITS FAR MORE BETTER IN QUALITY THAN YOURS. Except FW 190 AND BF 109 which need a special retract design with big angle, in all the other ocassions EUROKIT have a cheaper and more reliable solution. i really dont know why you, in U.S. have never heard of them...probably its a mistake from Eurokit. but for me i have over 15 pairs of them in my planes and i can tell you that its far more better in price and quality that some expensive retract of yours. Look here :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTBoc...-nrFLhgNo57dSw all the models you see there, except ESM BF 109 50CC, have Eurokit retracts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTBoc...-nrFLhgNo57dSw
03-12-2014, 11:21 PM
#2603
i would like to add that except that Shindinmachine are bullet proof retracts, Lenny who is the owner of the mark is a very good person!!!!i have personal opinion about Lenny and i could say that he is a very nice person.
03-13-2014, 05:07 PM
#2604
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I know that Sierra are very expensive, and when I started flying warbirds I used to balk at the thought of spending more on landing gear than the whole aircraft, but time has taught me that it regardless of how good or expensive the model is, if the landing gear starts to play up. it's going to wreck the flying day.
I've used heaps of different brands of retracts, and being mechanical systems, without proper setup and maintenance, they can all give grief! Having said that. my sierras have been the most reliable, but also by FAR, the most scale too...
Thanks
dave
I've used heaps of different brands of retracts, and being mechanical systems, without proper setup and maintenance, they can all give grief! Having said that. my sierras have been the most reliable, but also by FAR, the most scale too...
Thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 03-15-2014 at 02:02 AM.
03-24-2014, 05:16 PM
#2606
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Ram,
I'm installing the Sierra gear like you did. I cut the 10mm wedge out so that the strut was centered and the axel is centered in the wheel well, but the Toe-in seems wayyyyyy too much. Here's a pic, what do you think? Is that normal to have that much toe-in with the Sierra gear?
BTW, As I was cutting I noticed that the gear rails were sandwiched with 3/32 inch G-10. Has anyone ever seen that on a ARF? Should be D#$@ strong!
I'm installing the Sierra gear like you did. I cut the 10mm wedge out so that the strut was centered and the axel is centered in the wheel well, but the Toe-in seems wayyyyyy too much. Here's a pic, what do you think? Is that normal to have that much toe-in with the Sierra gear?
BTW, As I was cutting I noticed that the gear rails were sandwiched with 3/32 inch G-10. Has anyone ever seen that on a ARF? Should be D#$@ strong!
03-25-2014, 05:47 AM
#2608
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I cut my rails on a slight angle to deal with the toe in. I don;t have that much either.
Re: gear rails. Yeah I was really pumped about them too with the G-10 sandwiched in there!! until i realised that there wasn't all that much glue between the ply and G-10
A good dosing of CA helped it along. and having ripped my gear out before, yes the rails are plenty strong
Thanks
dave
Re: gear rails. Yeah I was really pumped about them too with the G-10 sandwiched in there!! until i realised that there wasn't all that much glue between the ply and G-10
A good dosing of CA helped it along. and having ripped my gear out before, yes the rails are plenty strongThanks
dave
03-25-2014, 01:35 PM
#2612
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Dgiatr, looking good, love the details.
RAM and Ticketec, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? If I angle the gear so that the toe-in is less then the struts are angled in the wing wells and the gear doors aren't centered. If I center the struts in the wells then there is too much toe-in.
RAM and Ticketec, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? If I angle the gear so that the toe-in is less then the struts are angled in the wing wells and the gear doors aren't centered. If I center the struts in the wells then there is too much toe-in.
03-25-2014, 01:39 PM
#2613
Dgiatr, looking good, love the details.
RAM and Ticketec, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? If I angle the gear so that the toe-in is less then the struts are angled in the wing wells and the gear doors aren't centered. If I center the struts in the wells then there is too much toe-in.
RAM and Ticketec, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? If I angle the gear so that the toe-in is less then the struts are angled in the wing wells and the gear doors aren't centered. If I center the struts in the wells then there is too much toe-in.
03-25-2014, 02:13 PM
#2616
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Dgiatr, looking good, love the details.
RAM and Ticketec, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? If I angle the gear so that the toe-in is less then the struts are angled in the wing wells and the gear doors aren't centered. If I center the struts in the wells then there is too much toe-in.
RAM and Ticketec, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? If I angle the gear so that the toe-in is less then the struts are angled in the wing wells and the gear doors aren't centered. If I center the struts in the wells then there is too much toe-in.
03-25-2014, 02:17 PM
#2618
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How much should you have....or how much is too much so it doesn't handle well? I measured with a protractor and it is 5 degrees.
Last edited by Dowmer; 03-25-2014 at 02:31 PM.
03-25-2014, 02:31 PM
#2620
If she did, I owe you one..lol