jet22b

TTRotary;
I was looking at the tail setup today. I pre-fit the tail on the fuse and test fit the elevators to the joiner and was shock how bad the elevators was apart.!! The hinges lines was okay, but the joiner was a mess. I know I will be going with two pushrods and two elevator servos. I will stay with the pull/pull setup for the rudder, but I will use the Du-Bro 4/40 pull set. As for the C.G, a few members of my club have build some of the ESM model and they have said the same thing you just posted about the C.G. on these birds. You bet I will be going with two 4/40 carbon for the elevators control.
Thanks for the info and the heads up!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Oh man that sucks Moggy. Sorry to hear it.
Build again mate.

Brad

CNY_Dave

Yes, the Kyosho 50 EP.

The struts (3/16 spring wire, 1 loop) are a bit stiff, other landings where I really botched it I could see the gear blocks coming loose, this time wasn't so hard but the ground was very soft. Adding to it, the wheels were toed out quite a bit, something I hadn't got around to fixing quite yet, and I think the extra drag from that when the wheel dug into the squishy stuff didn't help.

I wonder if I can 'soften' the wire a bit. I'd love to get some shock-absorbing struts for the looks and the utility (the field is a bit rough), but mad money for stuff like that isn't even on the horizon.

I have a nice set of LADO 60-1 retracts, they work great when I'm not leaving them strewn across the runway.

I think I don't have the plane trimmed quite right for landing, I'm going to get some help from a club member on that, I can't even be sure if I'm holding stick up. down, or neutral on the approach, just getting that figured out would be a big help. I even already have some flap-el mix, just have to tweak it the right way.

facia

Hi Dave,
I had a bit of a problem with tow out as well. No matter how much I tightened the 2 allen screws on the robart oleos,
the oleos would constantly turn out bit.
That attributed to my nose over problem, because of the drag. Even ground the flat spot on the strut more for the
allen screws to hold the oleos straight. No go.
Finally got mad and used JB weld. No more problems, they stay where I set them with a tiny bit of toe in for tracking.
You may want to try (unless you have done so already) shimmying the aft of the retract a tiny bit, that way the wheel will come forward
and give it a different angle of attack to the ground. The force will travel into the retract, rather than
trying to bend it backwards. Hope that makes sense.
Might have to try a different set of retracts. Are the Lado 60-1's not for 40 size planes?
Then again, they should work.
I do not have any special trim with my flap set up. Only 60% expo on elevator for low passes, so I don't pile it into the
ground when I twitch. :-)
I am coming in a bit hot on landings, keep the elevator up and play with the throttle. It is a balancing act, but I love it.

Good luck with your rebuild and let us know how it goes.

Andreas

CNY_Dave

I have the repairs already done, the gear blocks so far have broken out fairly cleanly.

As to the trim, I think I am needing to add down elevator with the stick to get the descent profile needed, holding down-stick usually isn't too stable for me, I end up all over the place.

I need to do an approach and then let go of the stick (so to speak) and see if it goes up or down.

I have found that for the axle adapter at the end of the strut, grinding a flat isn't enough for the torque involved, but a drop of CA between the strut and the adapter works wonders, and is easy to take apart if you can hit it with some heat from a torch, the CA gets gummy and you can rotate&pull.

My problem is I filed the flat to match the gear mechanism, forgetting they are not aligned with the front of the wing, and not facing straight forwards.

facia

Dave,
glad that you were able to get it repaired.

Thanks for the CA method.
Will try that on my winter project. (TopFlite F4U Corsair 60 kit, Wingspan 100deg rotating retracts, dle20)

Andreas

mad web tv scientist

IS THE PICTURE I HAVE POSTED HERE VISABLE TO ANYONE BESIDES ME? THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ANYONE FOR ANSWERING MY QUESTION. SPITFIRES, BROTHERHOOD SHIRT AND CAP, ETC., IN THE PICTURE ARE ALL PART OF THE ADVERTISING USED ON OTHER THREADS TO ENCOURAGE NEW SPITFIRE PROSPECTS.

All of my pictures even those copied and sent to two (2) different e-mail addresses to enjoy good back up protection have now evidently been permanently lost. They say, "it's always the one you don't see that gets you."

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Nope, no picture, just a small rectangle, i am sure it has a technical name for it but i am just a scale guy not a computer guy.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Nope, no pictures.

mad web tv scientist

Thanks, I suspected as much. I wonder if any of the pictures I posted on Park Flyer posts show up for others. Surely RCU will eventually make picture posting possible even for us science enthusiasts. Problems started when I updated the science content on the introduction to my MAD WEB TV SCIENTIST PAGE that was scheduled to go off the web soon but will now be around at least to the end of the year.

NOT SO!!! All of my pictures even those copied and sent to two (2) different e-mail addresses to enjoy good back up protection have now evidently been permanently lost. As they say, "it's always the one you don't see that gets you."

CNY_Dave

The key is to use it only if you can safely apply heat, or never have to take it apart. maybe CA dissolver would work, don't know.

Also, not so much the grub screw gets fouled with the stuff.

facia

Thanks, Dave.

Cautionary note received.

Andreas

jet22b

Okay Brothers.
Here is one mod I did on my build. I went from the pull/pull system on the elevator to 2 servos with carbon fiber pushrods. I think this will be a better setup, plus I can have both elevators half in-line with the stab. I just could not get the elevators in-line with the stab with the joiner. As for the rudder, I am also changing the rudder from the pull/pull system to pushrod. You can see them in the pictures just to the left of the carbon pushrod.
On the servo tray, I will have 5 servo's, 2 for elevator, 1 for rudder and 1 for the engine choke. One more thing, the manual is not a lot of help, but it is better than not having one. I did order the hide away switch kit from HangTime. It should be here sometime next week. Flying time for us here in the great northwest is just about over. So stay tune for more build updates!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

facia

Looking good Sonny,

Can't wait to see how your pushrod set-up is working, especially the separate elevator servos.
Hope they move up and down at the same rate when it is set up. I guess you have enough channels/mix/endpoint adjust to use with your DX18.
I am looking forward to the DX9 to come out. Dropped a few hints to the wife, if she has no idea what to get for Christmas.

Happy building & flying
Andreas

jet22b

Hi Andreas;
Yes this bird will be going on my DX18. Both of my Dirty Birdy has dual elevator servos and they work great. That what I love about the DX18. I can take a open channel on both the Tx and Rx and make that channel another elevator channel. That's right, Xmas is just around bend. Wow!!! This year is almost over!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

jet22b

More Updates:
I work on the Spit a little bit today and the fuse is starting to look like a Spit's fuse!!
What you see in the pictures is test fitting. I am going back to the pull/pull system for rudder control. I change out the Robart look alike hinges to the real ones on the rudder. I am thinking of going with a retract tail wheel I will very hard at that this weekend. Now the back end of the fuse has a opening hatch for the pull/pull for the elevator control. If I can find a tail retract that will fit into that opening, that will be good!!
I hope everyone has a good weekend for flying. We will have high winds and heavy rain for the next 5 days!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Looking good Sonny. Looks like the hatch will be in the perfect place for a retractable tail wheel.

Taking the H9 Spit flying tomorrow, weather in N. GA is going to be picture perfect, 0 - 3 mph wind, low humidity, blue sky and low to mid 70's.

Sorry, had to rub it in alittle.

jet22b

Hi Brothers;
Here are pictures of the opening in the tail.
Its 105MM long and the opening is 4MM at the top, 3.5MM in the center and 2.5MM at the bottom!!
I think that opening will work.
What do the Brotherhood think???
Thanks for any input!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

jet22b

Have fun tomorrow and you are right,, picture perfect weather!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Looking Good Sonny. I like your set-up, clean and neatly done.

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

I know holding down elevator on a landing is not a normal feel. Not being there to see what is taking place, I would recommend some down elevator mix when the flaps are deployed. Make some 1/4 to 1/3 throttle down wind passes with the flaps deployed. If the nose is pitching up just mix a little down elevator to your flap channel. I don't know if I ever had a plane that did not have some flap elevator mixing going on. Heck for that matter on full scale birds I have always rolled in down nose (elevator) trim in while landing.

I like to trim them with a slight nose down low power glide on final, requiring a light pull on the stick to round out the plane just off of the deck and hold till touch down. Then as the plane slows the tail will drop on its own.

CNY_Dave

I have some el mix with the flaps, enough to compensate, but adding a bit more might be the trick.

I have not had a chance to check the trim in landing config, just right for the descent or needing a little pullback is the way I like it too.

I let the previous owner take it for a spin, he busted out the same landing gear I just fixed, but again all my repairs held and it broke 'further back'. I like this plane but many of the glue joints are very weak, the wing ribs just popped off the wing sheeting. It wasn't that hard a landing that time either!

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I mix down elevator-to-flap with the gear down at idle while at high altitude. I look for a pronounced dive, about 15 degrees or so again, with the engine idling. Then, when power is applied it doesn't climb but instead it powers along at a level attitude. Reducing power steepens the glide, increased power levels or slightly climbs.
This makes for a very controllable rate of decent and very low bounce when touching down. I have seen many models doing a roller coaster (climb, mild stall, climb) motion when landing and too often the timing is off! That, combined with too much pitch control often results in disaster.

Hope this helps! Best regards.

CNY_Dave

Over the weekend, I see I seem to have a pitch control problem- me, not the plane. I can be trimmed for level flight and I still porpoise it, I'm not sure when I started doing that, or maybe I always did and the spit is the only one sensitive enough to show it. I already have a bunch of el expo dialed in.

This seems to make me reluctant to get near the ground, and so when I get close I bugger things up.

I'll try some more down trim with flaps and try your method. I have some practice setting the climb rate with the power setting.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Dave,

Reduce your elevator throw! Make the changes to the linkage, not in the transmitter. Check the manual for low-rate settings and follow them. I have NEVER seen a properly balanced airframe need high-rate elevator to fly well.