Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
11-06-2013, 09:16 AM
#551
@Pete
Thank you very much for the answer. I allready orderd a 21x15x3. Will see how it performs on ground tests. Since the recommanded prop was 23x12 I thought it should be close.
@Rev
Thank you for the answer. I was thinking to use something like the remote needle steel cable, so it can sit bend and exit between the cowl and the fuselage.
Thank you very much for the answer. I allready orderd a 21x15x3. Will see how it performs on ground tests. Since the recommanded prop was 23x12 I thought it should be close.
@Rev
Thank you for the answer. I was thinking to use something like the remote needle steel cable, so it can sit bend and exit between the cowl and the fuselage.
Last edited by Cristian2fast4you; 11-06-2013 at 10:00 AM.
11-07-2013, 05:51 AM
#552
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Just a heads up with the electric main retracts. The smallest of the two jack screws that threads into the clevis was turning. Turns out the little grub screw was stripped. If it managed to unscrew in flight it would end in tears. I retapped the hole and put a m3 grub scew in. All good now.
Might be worth checking.
Has anyone else had any problems with the electric mains, mine were binding a bit and the barrel that rotates came off the spline drive on one retract as it is only pressed on. Had to grub screw that on too. Nearly a days work just to get them reliable.
Might be worth checking.
Has anyone else had any problems with the electric mains, mine were binding a bit and the barrel that rotates came off the spline drive on one retract as it is only pressed on. Had to grub screw that on too. Nearly a days work just to get them reliable.
11-07-2013, 07:37 PM
#556
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On a large scale airplane its good habit to take the gear apart anyway and rebuild them while using loctite on every screw and grub screw...it would also help with finding issues like this thst you wouldnt normally find till its to late.
Just a bit of preventative maintenence goes a long way..especially when it comes to the wheels side of the model!!
Cole
Just a bit of preventative maintenence goes a long way..especially when it comes to the wheels side of the model!!
Cole
11-10-2013, 08:33 AM
#559
I just did a quick break even analysis between the Saito FG-84-R3D and the Evolution Evo 7-77 radials. Assuming buying non-ariated small engine gas at $4.30/gallon and low nitro fuel at $20.00/gallon you would think that you might make up the price difference in the cost of fuel.
The break even point assuming all other costs are the same, is between 36 to 40 gallons. If we use a 32 ounce tank, the that's 144 to 160 full flights before the glow engine 777 costs more than the Saito.
What did I learn?
Buying a radial is not a logical decision based on cost.
Its an emotional decision based on what you like to see & hear at the field.
The logical decision is to use the $200 refurbed G62 and just fly the day lights out of it!
Well that's enough thinking, now I have to go out and rake leave before I'm tempted to press "Check-Out" and buy the Evo7-77 . . .
11-10-2013, 10:19 AM
#560
I just did a quick break even analysis between the Saito FG-84-R3D and the Evolution Evo 7-77 radials. Assuming buying non-ariated small engine gas at $4.30/gallon and low nitro fuel at $20.00/gallon you would think that you might make up the price difference in the cost of fuel.
The break even point assuming all other costs are the same, is between 36 to 40 gallons. If we use a 32 ounce tank, the that's 144 to 160 full flights before the glow engine 777 costs more than the Saito.
What did I learn?
Buying a radial is not a logical decision based on cost.
Its an emotional decision based on what you like to see & hear at the field.
The logical decision is to use the $200 refurbed G62 and just fly the day lights out of it!
Well that's enough thinking, now I have to go out and rake leave before I'm tempted to press "Check-Out" and buy the Evo7-77 . . .
The break even point assuming all other costs are the same, is between 36 to 40 gallons. If we use a 32 ounce tank, the that's 144 to 160 full flights before the glow engine 777 costs more than the Saito.
What did I learn?
Buying a radial is not a logical decision based on cost.
Its an emotional decision based on what you like to see & hear at the field.
The logical decision is to use the $200 refurbed G62 and just fly the day lights out of it!
Well that's enough thinking, now I have to go out and rake leave before I'm tempted to press "Check-Out" and buy the Evo7-77 . . .
11-11-2013, 05:28 AM
#561
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Hi David,
Was wondering if you have any info or photos of the Saito FG-57 install. I have the updated FG-57 and wondering what folks have done for access to needle adjustments with the carb being so far into the firewall, let alone the choke.
Thanks, John
Was wondering if you have any info or photos of the Saito FG-57 install. I have the updated FG-57 and wondering what folks have done for access to needle adjustments with the carb being so far into the firewall, let alone the choke.
Thanks, John
11-11-2013, 06:23 AM
#562
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I maidened mine Sunday at the Atlanta Warbird event. Flew great. A little down and left trim was all that was needed. Very stable and predictable. The left main gear would not come down. It stopped half-way. Cycled them several times while in the air, but it would not fully extend. Had to belly it in, no flaps. No damage other than the two pylons, minor scuffing, and a broken prop. I did add hardwood triangle stock to the inside of the firewall with Hysol. We put it on a stand inverted and tried the gear again. The left main stopped half way. Cycled them and "helped" the left gear get past that point. They worked perfectly after that. Still not sure why it hung up. It was a bit cold out, but not sure that explains it. I did not fly it a second time yet. All in all, I'm very pleased with the way it handled. The right thrust must be right on, because it tracked straight down the runway.
11-11-2013, 06:40 AM
#563
Hi Nick,
Sorry to hear about the force landing. Hope you fix it soon. Check that the rotating rod end is not hitting the wing inside. Mine was.... I also put a lot of oil on threads since they made strange noise.
Sorry to hear about the force landing. Hope you fix it soon. Check that the rotating rod end is not hitting the wing inside. Mine was.... I also put a lot of oil on threads since they made strange noise.
11-11-2013, 01:56 PM
#566
11-11-2013, 06:28 PM
#567
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While trying to isolate the problem with the gear coming down, the tail wheel actuator quit working. Getting very frustrating. I talked to someone at Robart today. All they could suggest was to loosen the mounting screws to make sure the frame wasn't stressed, and to lube the screws. I'm temped to return all the electric gear and replace with the air. Anyone else actually flying this plane with the electric gear? Any problems? I'm not sure the electrics are ready for prime time yet.
Thanks,
Thanks,
11-12-2013, 01:32 PM
#569
My Feedback: (13)
While trying to isolate the problem with the gear coming down, the tail wheel actuator quit working. Getting very frustrating. I talked to someone at Robart today. All they could suggest was to loosen the mounting screws to make sure the frame wasn't stressed, and to lube the screws. I'm temped to return all the electric gear and replace with the air. Anyone else actually flying this plane with the electric gear? Any problems? I'm not sure the electrics are ready for prime time yet.
Thanks,
Thanks,
11-12-2013, 09:12 PM
#570
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While trying to isolate the problem with the gear coming down, the tail wheel actuator quit working. Getting very frustrating. I talked to someone at Robart today. All they could suggest was to loosen the mounting screws to make sure the frame wasn't stressed, and to lube the screws. I'm temped to return all the electric gear and replace with the air. Anyone else actually flying this plane with the electric gear? Any problems? I'm not sure the electrics are ready for prime time yet.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Rev
Last edited by Reverend; 11-12-2013 at 09:15 PM.
11-13-2013, 02:52 AM
#571
I saw the same issue with a 60 size spitfire they make, absolutly no glue in the joints itself just a hot glue fillet around the perimiter and the light ply skin just separated with the glue. Thinning epoxy with alcohol only weakens the epoxy. Unless the adhesive is placed directly into the joint you are wasting your time. Proper wood joinery requires that adhesive be placed on both pieces being joined so that the dry piece does not suck up all the adhesive off of the other half. I suggest you guys heat up the firewall with a heat gun and pull it off and reglue it the correct way and also pin it even if it were a kit I would pin it due to all the vibration and torque of the engine. These manufacturers don't care about what you say in a thread or how many people have a problem.They count on "percieved value" and the "I got to have it at all costs" mentality of the buyers. Sell them, discontinue them, forget em, thats how they work. Sorry for your issues and hope you get some kind of satisfaction from Horizon.
I just purchased a nicely assembled Hangar9 F4U-1D .60 size and now I am concerned!
The gentleman did a fantastic job on the wing assembly with installed mechanical retracts, aileron servos etc...all pre-installed at time of purchase by me.
Now, I have to populate the FUSE with the Elevator, Rudder servos and my E-Flite Power 60 Electric Power driven with the E-Flite 60-AMP ESC.
My target is to fly it with 5-Cell, 5,000mAH (5 AMP-HOUR), Lithium Polymer packs while swinging the MAS 3-Blade 14 X 9 propeller.
I am planning to bolt on a metal Motor mount for Electric Brushless motors so, I will use Gorilla Wood Glue at the Firewall to FUSE mating areas, would this suffice?????
Thanks!
Carlos
11-13-2013, 04:26 AM
#572
I maidened mine Sunday at the Atlanta Warbird event. Flew great. A little down and left trim was all that was needed. Very stable and predictable. The left main gear would not come down. It stopped half-way. Cycled them several times while in the air, but it would not fully extend. Had to belly it in, no flaps. No damage other than the two pylons, minor scuffing, and a broken prop. I did add hardwood triangle stock to the inside of the firewall with Hysol. We put it on a stand inverted and tried the gear again. The left main stopped half way. Cycled them and "helped" the left gear get past that point. They worked perfectly after that. Still not sure why it hung up. It was a bit cold out, but not sure that explains it. I did not fly it a second time yet. All in all, I'm very pleased with the way it handled. The right thrust must be right on, because it tracked straight down the runway.
If they are E-Flite "Electric" Retracts, assuming they make em that large for this size model then, did you install their provided Y-Connector? If so, check carefully to see if it has a Signal Line Amplifier right at near the Y. I have had many RC Models with E-Flite Retracts and they do NOT need any Signal Line Amplification and the guy over the Radio Section who is the Horizon Hobby representative really does not come clean with an clear answer as to why these Y-Connectors come with the E-Flite Retracts since most of the Spektrum Receivers and Transmitters say do NOT use Amplified Y-Connector harness!
This may or may not be your issue but, wanted to share just in case.
The effect of using the Amplified Y-Connector is an Unsolicited Cycling of one or both of the E-Flite Electric Retracts!!!
11-13-2013, 05:23 AM
#573
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Rev, have you flown yours yet? If not, try applying slight pressure to the front of the middle doors as the gear extends (as in the wind resistance during flight).
Guapoman, they are Robart electrics.
Thanks,
Guapoman, they are Robart electrics.
Thanks,
11-13-2013, 05:32 AM
#574
Nick,
Glad to hear that your plane flew well (excluding the retract issue). I'm almost at the point of balancing mine. How much weight did you add to the nose, and what engine are you running? I've installed a Zenoah ZP 62 (Electronic Ignition) with a B&B mount.
Oriole.
Glad to hear that your plane flew well (excluding the retract issue). I'm almost at the point of balancing mine. How much weight did you add to the nose, and what engine are you running? I've installed a Zenoah ZP 62 (Electronic Ignition) with a B&B mount.
Oriole.
11-13-2013, 06:05 AM
#575
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All,
I have had some request for photos on how the Radial corsair was laid out internally. I have attached some pics of where the gear is inside. Just a few notes. The on-board glow is on the bottom of the fuel tank. I made a small notch on the front former to allow this to fit. The regulators are mounted on each side of the fuel tank. I used 2 4000 lipos for the Radio and they are in the battery compartment. The glow driver battery is a 4 cell 4500 that is directly behind the firewall next to the tank. I have 4 servos for the main gear doors and lights so to lower the number of plugs that I had to attach when I plug the center wing section in the X plus module and electric retracts control module are mounted in the wing. I cut a hole in front of the main spar section for this.
Hope this helps some.
I have had some request for photos on how the Radial corsair was laid out internally. I have attached some pics of where the gear is inside. Just a few notes. The on-board glow is on the bottom of the fuel tank. I made a small notch on the front former to allow this to fit. The regulators are mounted on each side of the fuel tank. I used 2 4000 lipos for the Radio and they are in the battery compartment. The glow driver battery is a 4 cell 4500 that is directly behind the firewall next to the tank. I have 4 servos for the main gear doors and lights so to lower the number of plugs that I had to attach when I plug the center wing section in the X plus module and electric retracts control module are mounted in the wing. I cut a hole in front of the main spar section for this.
Hope this helps some.
Thanks.