mgosson

My Feedback: (8)

The new units I received appear to have multiple upgrades, including the controller. With said I can't speak with authority on the reliability, short or long term.
As long as you understand the tail retract servo placement must be relocated and steering cables modified, thanks to members here, you should be okay.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I ordered the new design UMS 150cc which is under the cowl diameter by their factory drawing. The 100cc should have the power like the Saito 90 to fly it. I’ve flown the 90 in a large scale Mr Mulligan and it has great power.
The gear from TopRC has some issues and my friend and I inspected the set that came with the kit. We returned the gear to Gator RC and ordered a Sierra set right away.

planenutzz

Get the Sierra gear and don't muck about with it.

I ran my FG90 on the weekend for the first time, it had already been broken in by Ray English when he did the mods. It is a beast! 6400 RPM but it was getting hot pretty quickly so had to pull throttle back. Might be a calibration issues with my telemtery system so will buy a laser temp gun from auto store to confirm the temps.
It was running on a test stand with no baffles so expect it to be cooler with baffles.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Take care with that engine. I had the FG84 done and followed the prop and oil recommendations but on the first flight it grenaded even though I was taking it easy. That coolpower oil must not have been good enough and after it was rebuilt I used Klotz Technoplate Synthetic, no problems. The engine had only been bench run to break in then sent for the upgrade service before it was ever flown.

crashEMhard

Anyone have some good shots of the insides of your Sierra tail wheel install?

planenutzz

I am. Klotz KL-200 @ 15:1 and I am keeping the revs down and keeping it very rich. Ray had done about 1.5 hrs to break it in and I have done another 84 mins. Hope to give it another run over the weekend.

planenutzz

There were a few photos on the FB TopRC page but the chap posting did not provide any on the inside, I PM'd him but got no reply.

crashEMhard

i talked to him last night but didn’t ask for inside or
install pics. I’ll send him a message. I just don’t want to cut a hatch or my fuse up.

planenutzz

Isn't there already a hatch in the fin? I am planning on adding one to the bottom of fuz so I can reinforce the rear fuz area and get better access.

planenutzz

Folks,
for those who have fitted the Saito FG90R3 what prop are you using and what numbers are you getting?

I have the Biela FW190 style 3 blade in 20x10 (was told iot was 20x12 but you cant get that size in biela).
I was getting 6400RPM ground test and I am thinking this prop is too small for the 90.

Considering the Biela FW190 style 3 blade in 22x12 and would be keen to know what RPMs / temps people are getting with that combo?

thanks in advance
cheers
P

tom.kart

i'm using a two blades 24x12 and it's works well.
for a three blades you have to reduce the diameter by 10%.
24*0.9= 21.6,
21x12 or 22x12 three blade will be good.

darod07

I had Biela FW190 style 3 blade in 22x12 in my Top RC Zero with Saito FG 90 R3. This prop is to much load for this engine. With rich setting I was getting max 5100 RPM on the ground. I know somebody from this forum blew up his engine with this prop.So I went for Biela semi 3 blade 22x12. It turned out it was to small - 6500rpm on the ground. Finally I changed for Biela semi 3 blade 23x10 and this is perfect setup. 6000 rpm on the ground.

planenutzz

Mate, thanks for that info, very helpful. The 20x10 (12?) FW190 biela is not enough prop, the engine only has about 3 hours on it and it will pull 6400 RPM on the ground already and that is at very rich settings, I would suggest it would get 7000 if I tuned it leaner.

Is the Biela semi 3 blade 23x10 a FW190 style?

thanks
cheers
P

planenutzz

Except with the FW 190 style with its broad blade which adds additional load.

darod07

No, there is no FW190 style of Biela prop which is good match for Saito FG90 R3.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

On a stock FG90 I’m running a Xoar 25x10 just fine, good temps and RPM. It’s installed in a 100in Mr Mulligan.
For a 3 blade set up I’d start with 23x10 or 24x10

planenutzz

I only have the 3 blade FW190 style in 20x10 at this stage.

I do have a couple of wooden hawk props in 2 blade 23x12 & 24x12 so might give one of those a try to see how the 90 likes them.

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

I am running an FG-90 with a ramoser Prop. The Prop has VDM shaped Blades and is variable Pitch (manual adjustment on the ground).

12.94kg thrust@5950 22,7" Blades set at 12"

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

In addition to the fan I have designed a row of exhaust stubs that go into the Cowl. The follow the curvature of the cowl and dont reduce the airflow too much. I think they turned out quite nice

planenutzz

that looks very good Rev! Well done.

What cylinder temps are you getting on your 90? I am seeing high temps on mine though seeing the day temps can be around 35C hardly helps.

cheers

Carlo Vangompel

I also use a 3-blade Ramoser prop 22.7" (adjustable on the ground)
Pitch is adjusted to 12
RPM is 5800 and torque 125Nm

Carlo

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Gentlemen - Great info in this thread.
Picked up my FG90R today. I'm in need of a 3-blade prop to keep ground rpms to 6000.
Your experience please. Please offer a good recommendation from the list below or other that may be available in the USA.
The plane is expected to be either a Focke-Wulf or Zero. Not so concerned about absolute scale.
Also plan to get the Saito Prop Drive Flange and Keleo Exhaust from CH Ignitions.

Biela Carbon 23x10
Beila Semi Scale Corsair Style 22x12 or 23x10
Biela Focke Wulf 24x10
SEP Scale 24x10
Xoar WWII 23x10

Regards - J Tab

One other question. The first 3/4" of the prop shaft is 12 mm. The remaining threads are 10 mm.
What is best method to ream out the back of the prop to 12 mm????

Txmustangflyer

Most of you are using a 90 cc radial. I've seen mention in the thread of some UMS radials also being used. Do any of those using the UMS radials have them flying?
If so, what are your opinions on them? As good as a Moki or Saito?
I'm currently building a Hanger 9 mustang but keeping an eye out for a 1/5th 190 to go with it and eyeing the UMS engines as possible power.

Txmustangflyer

take a drill bit in a drill press, measure the distance you need up the bit and tape it..four or 5 wraps of a good tape, the bit won't go past the tape and will follow the existing hole, when the tape touches the prop, bring it straight back out.
your other option is to make a bushing at 10 mm ID, 12 mm OD to put between the smaller section of the shaft and the prop.
one thing you might want to look at is the spinner being used as well..is it meant to screw on to the smaller section of the shaft or is it meant to use a prop nut that makes up the difference? If that's the case, it may need to be 12mm all the way through.

https://www.truturn.com/?year_id=381...vpf-ymm-search

the quick answer. Tru-turn for the Saito radials, the hex "bolt" screws on to your 10mm threaded section figure the collar of that nut at 1 mm thick so there is your extra 2mm. If something like that is used, your center hole in the prop would need to be 12mm all the way through. Make sense?

Before you drill the prop, have on hand everything to mount the prop to the engine. Then drill the prop to fit the hardware.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

The new UMS engine shipment is stuck in customs…
Came into FL just fine but has been flagged for some dumb reason.