Road trips: 2022
08-11-2022, 05:37 PM
#51
The Henry Co Wright Flyers are having a giant scale flyin at site 3 Muncie Labor Day weekend. Bring you one food and canopys,open flying 3 days 5 dollar landing fee.Gary Bussell is the cd.
08-13-2022, 11:57 AM
#52
All's WORKING again!
Aug. 13 at one of my local clubs.
80, clear skies and low wind.
The TF P-47 is, finally, flying 'normal'. The broken wing mount and hose clamp on the spark plug has fixed all the problems that have been 'bugging' me for the last several weeks.
Also, maiden the TF F4U Corsair. Only needed a few clicks aileron and elevator.
Nice to enjoy flying again!
Saw this and had to 'top off' the 'tank'!
On the way home the 'air' stopped working properly.
Once in awhile my 'air' goes 'funky' so re-connecting the two wire connectors to the 'control module', usually, fixes everything.
The main cover just 'snaps' onto the dash so an easy removal.
Aug. 13 at one of my local clubs.
80, clear skies and low wind.
The TF P-47 is, finally, flying 'normal'. The broken wing mount and hose clamp on the spark plug has fixed all the problems that have been 'bugging' me for the last several weeks.
Also, maiden the TF F4U Corsair. Only needed a few clicks aileron and elevator.
Nice to enjoy flying again!
Saw this and had to 'top off' the 'tank'!
On the way home the 'air' stopped working properly.
Once in awhile my 'air' goes 'funky' so re-connecting the two wire connectors to the 'control module', usually, fixes everything.
The main cover just 'snaps' onto the dash so an easy removal.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-13-2022 at 12:44 PM.
08-19-2022, 05:25 AM
#54
Ziroli F4U repair..
Idiot: while landing I got the plane too slow, about 500' away, and she crashed.
It's been decades since I let a plane get too slow and crashed!
Fortunately, she's not too bad and repairable.
Mostly the engine area, the center of the wing and the wing area on the fuse.
Engine area repair:
Motor mount loose and top of fuse damage.
Epoxy and clamps.
The ply for mounting the engine epoxied and clamped.
Wing area on the fuse:
Front and back 'ripped out'.
Front area epoxied.
Masking tape useful to hold all the 'parts' in place until the epoxy 'cooked'.
As usual: always pick up every piece of balsa at the 'field'!
Some 'bondo' will be needed to fill in the 'cracks'.
Back wing area of the fuse.
Made a paper template and cut a new ply former.
Epoxied and clamped.
The former holding the wing was salvageable.
Made a ply former to hold and strengthen the 3 pieces of the original former.
More epoxy and clamps.
Back of former with new ply added and paper template made.
Dry fit for now. Will not epoxy until the wing can be used to align the parts.
Center wing damage.
Both ends were damaged.
Front end:
Epoxied.
Back end.
Former epoxied to wing.
Idiot: while landing I got the plane too slow, about 500' away, and she crashed.
It's been decades since I let a plane get too slow and crashed!
Fortunately, she's not too bad and repairable.
Mostly the engine area, the center of the wing and the wing area on the fuse.
Engine area repair:
Motor mount loose and top of fuse damage.
Epoxy and clamps.
The ply for mounting the engine epoxied and clamped.
Wing area on the fuse:
Front and back 'ripped out'.
Front area epoxied.
Masking tape useful to hold all the 'parts' in place until the epoxy 'cooked'.
As usual: always pick up every piece of balsa at the 'field'!
Some 'bondo' will be needed to fill in the 'cracks'.
Back wing area of the fuse.
Made a paper template and cut a new ply former.
Epoxied and clamped.
The former holding the wing was salvageable.
Made a ply former to hold and strengthen the 3 pieces of the original former.
More epoxy and clamps.
Back of former with new ply added and paper template made.
Dry fit for now. Will not epoxy until the wing can be used to align the parts.
Center wing damage.
Both ends were damaged.
Front end:
Epoxied.
Back end.
Former epoxied to wing.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-19-2022 at 05:30 AM.
08-26-2022, 12:56 PM
#55
Ziroli F4U Corsair repair (CONT).
Wing Mount:
'Dry fit' the wing mount using the wing for alignment and a clamp to hold the wing mount in 'place'.
Some 'Saran wrap' to keep the epoxy off the wing while the epoxy 'cooks'.
Glad I measured for 'alignment' as I was off by about 5/8 of an inch.
Glue pieces back onto the fuse.
Cowl.
A rather large piece of the cowl needs to be reattached.
Cleaned up the area with alcohol and attaching only one end 'at a time' as part of the cowl is deformed.
Two layers of heavy duty FG cloth from my local auto store.
Finishing resin added.
Other end of broken part secured with another 2 layers of FG cloth.
Finishing resin added. A paint stick used to make the cowl 'round' on that side.
Aileron:
One aileron got damaged.
Removed part of the covering and CA'ed and then epoxied one side.
All the broken pieces were inside the covering so they were CA'ed 'back in place'.
Removed the remaining covering and CA'ed and epoxied the other side.
'Easy sand' used to fill in all the 'cracks'.
Wing Mount:
'Dry fit' the wing mount using the wing for alignment and a clamp to hold the wing mount in 'place'.
Some 'Saran wrap' to keep the epoxy off the wing while the epoxy 'cooks'.
Glad I measured for 'alignment' as I was off by about 5/8 of an inch.
Glue pieces back onto the fuse.
Cowl.
A rather large piece of the cowl needs to be reattached.
Cleaned up the area with alcohol and attaching only one end 'at a time' as part of the cowl is deformed.
Two layers of heavy duty FG cloth from my local auto store.
Finishing resin added.
Other end of broken part secured with another 2 layers of FG cloth.
Finishing resin added. A paint stick used to make the cowl 'round' on that side.
Aileron:
One aileron got damaged.
Removed part of the covering and CA'ed and then epoxied one side.
All the broken pieces were inside the covering so they were CA'ed 'back in place'.
Removed the remaining covering and CA'ed and epoxied the other side.
'Easy sand' used to fill in all the 'cracks'.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-26-2022 at 01:01 PM.
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aghost (08-31-2022)
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aghost (08-31-2022)
08-31-2022, 05:10 PM
#58
Scott,
Yes, repaint as dark blue from left over paint from my other corsairs.
=============================
Ziroli F4U repair, TF F4U carb rebuild and 'better the stool than me'!
Ziroli F4U repair (Cont).
Aileron.
One Dubro nylon hinge needed to be re-glued after repairing the damaged area.
A Dremel cut off disk used to make the hinge slot.
Used some piano wire to insure all hinges were in alignment while gluing the one hinge.
Used an orbital sander and sand paper wrapped on a paint stick to sand all the 'easy sand' bondo that was applied several days ago.
Dry fitted the wing to the fuse to insure alignment.
Still a few spots that need more 'bondo'.
Bottom edge of stab.
Cowl.
============================
The TF F4U engine was 'stopping' when advancing the throttle.
Another pilot said 'rebuild the carb'.
The old parts.
The engine 'sputtered' once but that maybe due to bubbles in the line.
All seems 'good' now.
================
Better the stool versus me!
I always strap the tail before starting the engine.
The strap knot came loose and the plane moved forward and the prop broke when it hit the stool.
My 'survival' instincts told me to back up versus trying to grab the plane.
I never 'run up' the engine until I'm behind the plane so the engine was only on idle.
I have put 3 knots in the strap instead of the usual 2!
Yes, repaint as dark blue from left over paint from my other corsairs.
=============================
Ziroli F4U repair, TF F4U carb rebuild and 'better the stool than me'!
Ziroli F4U repair (Cont).
Aileron.
One Dubro nylon hinge needed to be re-glued after repairing the damaged area.
A Dremel cut off disk used to make the hinge slot.
Used some piano wire to insure all hinges were in alignment while gluing the one hinge.
Used an orbital sander and sand paper wrapped on a paint stick to sand all the 'easy sand' bondo that was applied several days ago.
Dry fitted the wing to the fuse to insure alignment.
Still a few spots that need more 'bondo'.
Bottom edge of stab.
Cowl.
============================
The TF F4U engine was 'stopping' when advancing the throttle.
Another pilot said 'rebuild the carb'.
The old parts.
The engine 'sputtered' once but that maybe due to bubbles in the line.
All seems 'good' now.
================
Better the stool versus me!
I always strap the tail before starting the engine.
The strap knot came loose and the plane moved forward and the prop broke when it hit the stool.
My 'survival' instincts told me to back up versus trying to grab the plane.
I never 'run up' the engine until I'm behind the plane so the engine was only on idle.
I have put 3 knots in the strap instead of the usual 2!
09-02-2022, 03:28 PM
#60
Ziroli F4U Corsair repair (cont):
One damaged aileron covered, pre paint prep and painting.
Aileron:
Used Solartex to cover the aileron.
Bottom edges sealed.
top.
Before.
After.
Heat iron removes all those wrinkles (too bad it doesn't work on me!).
top
Bottom.
Prep plane for painting.
Heat gun to remove all old vinyl markings.
Sand all surfaces and wipe down with alcohol.
Touch up gun from Harbor freight.
Only had a partial can of Navy Blue paint so had to buy another gallon of paint.
Was 32 bucks for a quart and 62 for a gallon: 'no brainer' on buying the gallon!
My last purchase was in 2008 and Home Depot has changed their 'paint' codes since then so they scanned my old paint.
I bought their best outdoor paint available.
Took about 5 hours to prep and paint.
Window washer to thin the thick paint. About 60/40 (paint/thinner).
After thinning, need to 'filter' the paint.
Bottom of wing and fuse done.
Took about 4 coats to cover an 'even' finish and cover all bondo colors.
My opinion is you can't get a top notch finish without a primer added, first, assuming the model is 'glassed'.
Primer shows all the blemishes so they can be 'sanded' and makes the surface 'one color'.
I didn't primer this plane as I consider it a 'simi-beater' plane; just to take it out and fly it for fun.
Also, no panel lines or rivets (if the 'full size' plane has them): my opinion, if it doesn't have these then it lacks a 'soul'!
Panel lines and rivets makes the plane 'jump out' at you.
Also, it's much easier to get an excellent finish when all 'moving' surfaces are removable; Someone else built this plane so that option wasn't available for all 'moving' surfaces.
After about a half hour, I could rotate all the parts to paint the top halves.
Wax paper was put under the newly painted bottom surfaces to reduce any 'sticking'.
Before.
After.
Impressive; whoever made the canopy used aluminum.
You know the plane is old when the original canopy looks like this!
One damaged aileron covered, pre paint prep and painting.
Aileron:
Used Solartex to cover the aileron.
Bottom edges sealed.
top.
Before.
After.
Heat iron removes all those wrinkles (too bad it doesn't work on me!).
top
Bottom.
Prep plane for painting.
Heat gun to remove all old vinyl markings.
Sand all surfaces and wipe down with alcohol.
Touch up gun from Harbor freight.
Only had a partial can of Navy Blue paint so had to buy another gallon of paint.
Was 32 bucks for a quart and 62 for a gallon: 'no brainer' on buying the gallon!
My last purchase was in 2008 and Home Depot has changed their 'paint' codes since then so they scanned my old paint.
I bought their best outdoor paint available.
Took about 5 hours to prep and paint.
Window washer to thin the thick paint. About 60/40 (paint/thinner).
After thinning, need to 'filter' the paint.
Bottom of wing and fuse done.
Took about 4 coats to cover an 'even' finish and cover all bondo colors.
My opinion is you can't get a top notch finish without a primer added, first, assuming the model is 'glassed'.
Primer shows all the blemishes so they can be 'sanded' and makes the surface 'one color'.
I didn't primer this plane as I consider it a 'simi-beater' plane; just to take it out and fly it for fun.
Also, no panel lines or rivets (if the 'full size' plane has them): my opinion, if it doesn't have these then it lacks a 'soul'!
Panel lines and rivets makes the plane 'jump out' at you.
Also, it's much easier to get an excellent finish when all 'moving' surfaces are removable; Someone else built this plane so that option wasn't available for all 'moving' surfaces.
After about a half hour, I could rotate all the parts to paint the top halves.
Wax paper was put under the newly painted bottom surfaces to reduce any 'sticking'.
Before.
After.
Impressive; whoever made the canopy used aluminum.
You know the plane is old when the original canopy looks like this!
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-03-2022 at 06:58 AM.
09-07-2022, 01:19 PM
#63
Ziroli F4U Corsair repair (cont)
Paint color:
In my opinion, this Navy Blue should have been a darker shade of blue!
Decals:
Normally, I use a water slide decal but the only decals I had was this one vinyl set.
I used to get them from Major Decals which became part of Northeast screen graphics but, it appears, 'stars n strips' are no longer sold!
Did find this web site but you'll have to contact them or 'search' for a larger decal set:
https://fanjetsusa.com/product/major...ure-sensitive/
Since these are vinyl, I pulled half the decal from the 'backing' paper, cut the 'backing' paper in half and put the decal back on the 'backing' paper.
Then I taped one side, pulled up half the decal from the 'backing' paper and used a 'bondo' applicator to push down the decal.
Ditto on the other half of the decal.
Right side taped to wing.
Left half of decal secured to wing.
Right half secured to wing.
Bottom of wing done.
I had some nomenclature 'left over' from my Carf. F4U so I put them on this plane.
Not 'complete' but 'better than nothing'!
Here's the defects showing when I didn't use a primer to 'smooth' out the surface before painting a glassed wing.
Panel lines and rivets.
I 'changed my mind' and went the 'easy' route and added them via 'paint pens'. This is much faster than my, usual, soldering iron with a 'brass tube' method.
Still had 'printouts' that I used on my Carf F4U.
Bought several types of 'pens' as I wasn't sure which would work the best.
These are 'enamel' base.
Purchased them at Michaels.
This 'medium' pen seems to work best.
The tip is 'fat' enough to see on the plane.
Right half of the wing.
I used an 18" 'see through' plastic ruler for the 'panel lines' and just 'eye balled' the rivets.
Nothing 'great' but it gives the wing some 'pop'!
MMM: I see I missed added more rivets to the LE area!
Left wing half.
NO: I'm not doing the bottom of the wing. No one will see it and this is just a 'week end' flyer.
One nice thing: the 'panel lines and rivets' hide the surface defects!
I put 'double' lines on the outer ribs to represent the cloth that was used in that area versus aluminum sheeting.
The fuse is next.
Always liked the Major decals 'water transfer' decals.
They must of been made using a 2 part epoxy because they didn't 'fall apart' on such a large decal when applying them to the plane's surface.
They also allow all surface panel lines and rivets to 'show through'.
Can see the rivets and panel lines in the decal.
Paint color:
In my opinion, this Navy Blue should have been a darker shade of blue!
Decals:
Normally, I use a water slide decal but the only decals I had was this one vinyl set.
I used to get them from Major Decals which became part of Northeast screen graphics but, it appears, 'stars n strips' are no longer sold!
Did find this web site but you'll have to contact them or 'search' for a larger decal set:
https://fanjetsusa.com/product/major...ure-sensitive/
Since these are vinyl, I pulled half the decal from the 'backing' paper, cut the 'backing' paper in half and put the decal back on the 'backing' paper.
Then I taped one side, pulled up half the decal from the 'backing' paper and used a 'bondo' applicator to push down the decal.
Ditto on the other half of the decal.
Right side taped to wing.
Left half of decal secured to wing.
Right half secured to wing.
Bottom of wing done.
I had some nomenclature 'left over' from my Carf. F4U so I put them on this plane.
Not 'complete' but 'better than nothing'!
Here's the defects showing when I didn't use a primer to 'smooth' out the surface before painting a glassed wing.
Panel lines and rivets.
I 'changed my mind' and went the 'easy' route and added them via 'paint pens'. This is much faster than my, usual, soldering iron with a 'brass tube' method.
Still had 'printouts' that I used on my Carf F4U.
Bought several types of 'pens' as I wasn't sure which would work the best.
These are 'enamel' base.
Purchased them at Michaels.
This 'medium' pen seems to work best.
The tip is 'fat' enough to see on the plane.
Right half of the wing.
I used an 18" 'see through' plastic ruler for the 'panel lines' and just 'eye balled' the rivets.
Nothing 'great' but it gives the wing some 'pop'!
MMM: I see I missed added more rivets to the LE area!
Left wing half.
NO: I'm not doing the bottom of the wing. No one will see it and this is just a 'week end' flyer.
One nice thing: the 'panel lines and rivets' hide the surface defects!
I put 'double' lines on the outer ribs to represent the cloth that was used in that area versus aluminum sheeting.
The fuse is next.
Always liked the Major decals 'water transfer' decals.
They must of been made using a 2 part epoxy because they didn't 'fall apart' on such a large decal when applying them to the plane's surface.
They also allow all surface panel lines and rivets to 'show through'.
Can see the rivets and panel lines in the decal.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-07-2022 at 01:48 PM.
09-08-2022, 09:43 AM
#64
Ziroli F4U Corsair rebuild (cont)
Fuse panel lines, rivets, canopy and decals.
Panel lines and rivets.
Again, double lines to represent cloth over ribs on rudder and elevator.
New canopy 'glass'.
Attached the existing metal frame to the new 'glass'.
Dry fit.
Used silicon caulk and screws to secure the frame to the 'glass'.
This stuff has gotten expensive: 14 bucks a tube!
Let dry before cutting and attaching the rear canopy.
Paper towel and alcohol used to remove excess caulk.
Decals.
Vinyl decals applied as on the wing.
Left side.
Modeled after Pappy's squadron.
'86' was suppose to be Pappy's plane number.
Left side.
Fuse panel lines, rivets, canopy and decals.
Panel lines and rivets.
Again, double lines to represent cloth over ribs on rudder and elevator.
New canopy 'glass'.
Attached the existing metal frame to the new 'glass'.
Dry fit.
Used silicon caulk and screws to secure the frame to the 'glass'.
This stuff has gotten expensive: 14 bucks a tube!
Let dry before cutting and attaching the rear canopy.
Paper towel and alcohol used to remove excess caulk.
Decals.
Vinyl decals applied as on the wing.
Left side.
Modeled after Pappy's squadron.
'86' was suppose to be Pappy's plane number.
Left side.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-08-2022 at 09:49 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mbaulfinger (09-08-2022)
09-09-2022, 12:36 PM
#65
Ziroli F4U Corsair rebuild (cont)
Final rivets on cowl and 'clear coat' and 'at the field' pictures.
Cowl.
Last item to 'detail'.
Clear coat.
Minwax polycrylic satin works well for me.
Only about 10% diluted with 'auto window wash'.
As with the paint, did the 'bottoms' first.
After 30 minutes, surface hard enough to 'flip' 'right side up' using wax paper for protection.
'Clear coat' still wet.
'Surface' dry after 30 minutes.
Blends the rivets, decals and paint into one 'matt' finish.
Excess 'glass' trimmed on the canopy.
Painting outdoors dissipates the 'fumes' well but still good to have a mask 'on'.
Great day flying at the field.
My perfect 'cloud day'!
Corn is dying so only several more weeks left to fly.
Final rivets on cowl and 'clear coat' and 'at the field' pictures.
Cowl.
Last item to 'detail'.
Clear coat.
Minwax polycrylic satin works well for me.
Only about 10% diluted with 'auto window wash'.
As with the paint, did the 'bottoms' first.
After 30 minutes, surface hard enough to 'flip' 'right side up' using wax paper for protection.
'Clear coat' still wet.
'Surface' dry after 30 minutes.
Blends the rivets, decals and paint into one 'matt' finish.
Excess 'glass' trimmed on the canopy.
Painting outdoors dissipates the 'fumes' well but still good to have a mask 'on'.
Great day flying at the field.
My perfect 'cloud day'!
Corn is dying so only several more weeks left to fly.
09-11-2022, 05:24 AM
#66
Sept. 8-10, LMACKY Fall Classic in Lexington, Kentucky.
Miles: 110.
About an 800' paved runway plus grass.
I took my 13 year old Ziroli SBD Dauntless.
A Byron F4U.
Hanger-9's P-6E Hawk.
Don't see these very often and this one looks like it just came out of the 'box'.
I started a thread on this plane back in 2005 and it has 300,000 'hits' and one 'hit' just last month.
Never thought this plane would be so popular.
Surprised 'they' don't reproduce this model!
Black Horse models.
https://www.motionrc.com/collections...e-rc-airplanes
They have 'carbon fiber' interiors.
The 'spit' is a Phoenix model that's been repainted.
I've got one of these still in the 'box'.
Miles: 110.
About an 800' paved runway plus grass.
I took my 13 year old Ziroli SBD Dauntless.
A Byron F4U.
Hanger-9's P-6E Hawk.
Don't see these very often and this one looks like it just came out of the 'box'.
I started a thread on this plane back in 2005 and it has 300,000 'hits' and one 'hit' just last month.
Never thought this plane would be so popular.
Surprised 'they' don't reproduce this model!
Black Horse models.
https://www.motionrc.com/collections...e-rc-airplanes
They have 'carbon fiber' interiors.
The 'spit' is a Phoenix model that's been repainted.
I've got one of these still in the 'box'.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-11-2022 at 05:41 AM.
09-24-2022, 07:47 AM
#70
Rosewood (CONT)
A 'rarity': I'm in a 'picture'!
I brought 3 planes but only one could fly.
The Ziroli P-47 had to be 'binded' and then on the 'range check' the engine died when the plane was rotated the first 90 degrees.
When removing the TF F4U from the trailer, I noticed the 'wing sheeting' was split. (see last post for repair).
A 'rarity': I'm in a 'picture'!
I brought 3 planes but only one could fly.
The Ziroli P-47 had to be 'binded' and then on the 'range check' the engine died when the plane was rotated the first 90 degrees.
When removing the TF F4U from the trailer, I noticed the 'wing sheeting' was split. (see last post for repair).
09-24-2022, 08:03 AM
#73
Rosewood (cont))
Americana: Bridge over the Ohio river at Louisville, KY.
Rare to see wires on railroad telephone poles, let alone the 'glass insulators'!
TF F4U wing sheeting 'separation' repair.
Some epoxy fixed it.
The Ziroli F4U has been 'bedded' for the winter.
Americana: Bridge over the Ohio river at Louisville, KY.
Rare to see wires on railroad telephone poles, let alone the 'glass insulators'!
TF F4U wing sheeting 'separation' repair.
Some epoxy fixed it.
The Ziroli F4U has been 'bedded' for the winter.
09-26-2022, 05:12 AM
#74
Super Scale Sunday at WORKS in Carlisle, Ohio.
Miles: 20
1000' all grass runway on a 'full size' runway plus 300' 'geotech'.
15-20 MPH winds so attendance was low.
Doug and I got our 'flights in'.
Food was great.
Worth the 'trip' just for the food!
Miles: 20
1000' all grass runway on a 'full size' runway plus 300' 'geotech'.
15-20 MPH winds so attendance was low.
Doug and I got our 'flights in'.
Food was great.
Worth the 'trip' just for the food!
10-06-2022, 12:14 PM
#75
Oct 6-9, Dawn Patrol at Wright Pat Museum.
Miles: 40
Full size as well as RC models are at this flyin.
Videos of full size planes:
Nieuport 28 taking off:
Full size flyby:
More flyby's:
Landing and flyby with gun noise:
Nieuport landing:
5000' runway: should be long enough!
Many famous planes have landed here along with many famous pilots!
Wright Pat airforce museum: One of the finest airplane museums in the world and it's free!
==============
RC models.
(Full size are in the 2nd post).
Miles: 40
Full size as well as RC models are at this flyin.
Videos of full size planes:
Nieuport 28 taking off:
Full size flyby:
More flyby's:
Landing and flyby with gun noise:
Nieuport landing:
5000' runway: should be long enough!
Many famous planes have landed here along with many famous pilots!
Wright Pat airforce museum: One of the finest airplane museums in the world and it's free!
==============
RC models.
(Full size are in the 2nd post).