Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

DWR,

mate the horn will still be removed for sanding of the flap to shap, jusyt need to fashion a small slot in the balsa so it can slide in and out. Once shaping is completed I will dribble thinned epoxy through the slot then slide the horn back in.

Easy peasy

cheers
Peter

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Yea Pete I see your point any way he flys a lot of demos he and his team potentially he could fly in a scale manner I think. When I first read a thread here on RCU about his flying style W/the Boeing I was informed by another poster that the full scale was flown inverted. What a great ploy to use on a scale judge. Now if I can confirm that a "split S,"was restricted in the Thunderbolt or wasn't it?

tbolt6200

HI I have built 3 60 size t/f p47 they are the best flyers each had over 50 flights 2 I sold 1 I destoyed my fault

now I am building a Zeroli 70 inch wing P47 I trying to find out if I realy need flaps the wing cord is 16 inches I'll

be using a g38 on it, would you know of any who has been flying one ? good luck on your t/f p47 I hear they are very good
with g62 or a 50 cc

tbolt6200

jsevey

Gentlemen-

I have been following this thread with great interest but have never asked any questions until now. I have been reading/sleeping with my TFGS P-47 plans and all my P-47 books for months now. I have all my components gathered as of this week and I am getting ready to make some saw dust. Your build has provided valuable information and great inspiration and helped in making many decisions.

My question: Is anyone making hidden control linkages to the rudder/elevator/ailerons? I have been playing with numerous drawings and diagrams and I hate to put countles of hours into this project and leave big ugly control horns hanging out all over the place. Did I miss this somewhere in the thread or is this just not possible?

Thanks- Jim

jsevey

Forgot one thing-

I bought a US engines 41cc and have a 20x6 (or 8-can't remember) prop. It has the velocity stack on it and fits entirely in the cowl. Has anyone had any experience or reports on this combination? I am not interested in 3D soeed and power- just scale power.

Thanks again- Jim

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

hi Richard,

B29 full size inverted? Man that would be a sight! I do know in testing that the B737 was axial rolled, quite easily too apparantly. Mind you I do not want to be strapped in seat 4C the next time they try it!

Hmm seem to remember something about that split s in the jug, I have the pilot training manual downstairs on my bench so will have to go study.

cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

no idea T bolt, post a question in the kit maunufactuers threads, think there is a sub forum on Zirolis or simply go to their website and email them.

For mine I would definitely fit flaps. Looks good if for no other reson!

cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Jim,
welcome to the thread and man get the sawdust flying!! No point sleeping with plans and box of sticks, besides the box will dig in your ribs when you roll over .

Ok hidden control linkages. anything is possible if you apply some thought and patience to it. No I am not doing any hidden controls except for flaps and that is standard anyway.

By the way the full sized had aileron and flap linkages exposed, but had little fairings over them.

I thought about all of this and here are my thoughts:

1. Flaps - standard as they are "hidden" anyway

2. Ailerons. Do not believe you would get enough leverage if you mounted them in a scale manner. You won't see them under the wing anyway. I opted for simplicity and proven performance plus ease of maintenance.

3. Rudder. I'm using pull -pull cable system so very little will be out in the airstream anyway. I will also be adding little shrouds/ fairing to further make that look scalish. Full size still had control horns and cable system that you can see.

4. Elevator. Now I very nearly did do a concealed system and still wish I had done so to some extent. Very easy to epoxy a torque rod into the elevator halves and drive them from a single control horn hidden in the fuz. Only problem is getting access for service.
The main reason though that I did not do this was that I wanted dual elevator servo setup so that in the case of some sort of failure I would still have half an elevator to get me home. The stock standard way is dual redundant. I am beefing it up though with dubro bolt through 4-40 ball linkages on the ends.

re 4. The TF GS Corsair uses a concealed linkage for elevator so you could download the manual from TF to see how it is done on that bird and do similar.

Cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Jim,

I'm not a fan of US engines. From what I have heard they are a pile of junk. Having said that it will pull the Jug about in a scale like manner but if you get up towards the 30 lb mark it may be marginal.

The US41 is no powerhouse so watch your weight.

Of course you can always sell the US41 on ebay and buy a G62!! Zneoahs are good solid engines, built like a brick S#$% house and good power. You will need lots of extra nose weight with the US 41 combo so may as well have a bigger donk and more grunt.

the G62 can be fully enclosed inc carby if you use the 90 degree carb mount kit. Fit a slimline pitts muffler and even the exhaust is hidden.

cheers
Peter

camdyson

Re: Hidden controls - I also used closed loop on rudder, with small horn & exits barely visible. Ailerons I have put smaller horn, and internal control rod to servo - so only clevis prodrudes near T/E of wing, and ail. horn barely extends past ail. skin. Good enough for my hotliner electrics and F3B gliders in the past, so should be fine (bear in mind mine's the smaller TF Jug)

Cam

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

sounds good cam, any pics of that setup?

nchrome

Okay jsevey I have the GS TF P-47 and all my control horns are hidden by way of the tourque rod system. I have owned mine for about three years now and I have only had a little play in the control serfaces. This is in the elevators rudder and alerons. Peter oz if you have never owned one don't knock it I have three of them and I am very satisfied with them. They do strain if you try to use a 20" prop though. An 18" is ideal but a cut down 20 to a 19 may work quite well. As far as the weight though if I wouldn't of put the servos in the tail for the tourque rod system I probably wouldn't of needed 1 1/2 bls of lead up front. For scale flight though I like what I see from my US 41s. Do what you want but if you go to sell it give me a PM and lets talk turky( I am a cheep person though). But trust me for what you would give for a new US 41 you wouldn't be able to get a used G62.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

I stand by my last - do u want a lada or a landcruiser? No comparison!

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

or more appropriately a Honda compared to a Hyundai!

Canuck1

I have been working on the machine guns. They have turned out well. I was looking at the walk around book and they show a small round piece of metal that surrounds the blast tubes at the base where they exit the wings. I was thinking how could I recreate these. I looked through my kids school supplies and found some plastic rienforcements. They have a sticky adheasive on the back. The inside diameter is 1/4 in so they fit over the blast tubes perfectly. I gave them a try and they work well. I will not put them over the blast tubes until I am ready to put on my finish coat of paint. It should leave a very slight ridge after painting. I have attached a couple of pictures.

Craig.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Criag, not a bad idea mate.

just for interest sake but the guns on the 47 and indeed the 51 as well were parallel to the ground when looking from the front. They did not follow the dihedral angle of the wing.

I am thinking of making up a jig the fits over the wing LE with drill tubes so that I can get all of this spot on.

By the way what did you use for the tubes themselves?

Also if you look at the pic attached you will note that it is the larger cover that goes over all 4 tubes that has the roundish opening on it that you are trying to recreate. I may experient with lithoplate as it is very thin and easily worked into tricky shapes etc.

cheers
PEter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

I also was wrong with regard to how the ailerons on the full sized are linked. I had though they had the linkage exposed but under a shroud. In fact they have a similar design to that of the Corsair.

They are not hinged in the middle at all. Oh well . . .
Pics show what I mean.

think Dion documented this on his corsair thread. I also have BT corsair plans that show how to do this - BUGGER!

ok just took a pic of the BT plans and it is the same as a full size P47 arrangement.

sooo now do I modify the ailerons or leave em as they are? Will have to have a think about that.

not shown is the linkage pivot point but would think it will be similar to the flaps. In fact this setup is very close to that of the flaps and a similar construction method would be used.

Modifying the airlerons themselves would be quite straightforward, it is modifying the wing trailing edge that will take some work to do.

hmmmm
hmmmmmmmmm

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

[:-][sm=surprised.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

cheers
Peter

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Close but no Cigar! and I used a ruler..

Canuck1

Looks good Richard.
The area around the guns, I plan on masking off and building the area up with paint, so it looks like a seperate panel added to the leading edge. It will look better than just a couple pieces of panel line tape. After that I will add the plastic rienforcements prior to the final coat. I just ordered my retracts from Robart. Then I will be able to complete the wing. Fake wingtip lights are next on my list.

Craig.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

why fake? Get some superbright LEDs, red and a green one. Easy to do and bugger all current drain. Pic of the port wingtip to show you.

I have nearly decided to do the aileron mods to make it scale, got the robart hinges, got 1/32" ply for top of wing TE, have to buy:

- aluminium tube
- balsa stock to modify the aileron and wing LE, TE respectfully.

Now no car this week as the wife has pissed off for the week with the car [:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@] and no not happy! LHS is a good 1 1/2 hr walk away.

Maybe ?I could get some rollerblades and hook myself up to my 1/4 scale Cub and get towed hehehehe well it does have a 160 twin in the nose!

Bloody women

cheers
Peter

Canuck1

Peter
With your wife gone, you can work like mad on the P-47 LOL
I did not put any wiring into the main wing for the wing tip lights. I will do the lights with LED's and have a clear plastic lens cover on it. Did them on my Lancaster and for my first attempt they came out pretty good. On the P-47 they sure are big, which will look great. Maybe on my next scale project I will do operable lights. I am really not to sure on all that electronic stuff. I imagine it is not difficult. I will have to read up on it.

Craig.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

If I had money I would OVERNIGHT the raw materials to you[8D]That Kangaroo mail is slow I'll bet[sm=lol.gif]

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Craig,
no not that difficult if you have spent the time studying it! Basic ohms law to work out the current limiting resistor - in this case for a superbright led it neads around 30mA of current and @ 6v you need around an 80ohm, 1/4 watt resistor to limit the current

Now you could always open up the outer wing panels and use a 9v alkaline battery - little hidden switch to turn them on.

cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

naw it is quite quick actually

just can not fit much in the pouch

Canuck1

I have been working on the sliding canopy. I have the basics completed. I made a fibreglass base for the front windscreen. Before I glued the windscreen, I finished and painted the base to include some rivet detail. I did not want to permanently instal the windscreen yet, need to finish the cockpit first. I am building up the edges of the front so it has a gentle more scale slope. When that is done I will trim the base to shape and glue in position after painting is done. The Gabreski P-47 had a bare aluminum finish to the complete Canopy. I will attach after so the canopy lines are crisp. The canopy slides well. I had to use some balsa attached to the rail system to affix the plastic. It is nice and strong. When she is all done you will not be able to see the base of the canopy. As this canopy is not scale I will need to increase the skirting on the canopy which will increase the width of the canopy frame. I will make a cardboard template which will be glassed to achieve this affect. I will post more pictures when that is done. I am planning on covering the frame work with alluminum tape, which will give it a great look. Burnish in some rivet detail to finish it off. Well time for bed, I have attached a few pics of my progress so far.

Craig.