Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

I recieved the Spit partly built. Cutt out formers for pull pull set up, Took out the 1/4 sq canop rails and added 1/4 by 1/8 rails cut slot with dremel for plastic strut H beam slider. also cut out vert stab for pull pull set up.
On the wing the plans show to cut the bottom main spar out for the retracts. I added 1/8 ply from top spar to bottom spar on both rails for wing support and retract support. <no pictures for that> alos added another main spar 1/2 by 1/4 spruce between w 3 wing ribs in front of the main spar and also a rear spar same size about 4 in from the trailing edge, beings that I am adding flaps. Their are not shown on plans.
Flaps
First I added a thin layer of bondo to the top of the wing where the flaps go to stiffen up the trailing edge. Then I cut out for the split flaps and added 1/8 leading edge. The split are 4 seperate flaps. I made the main tork tube from 1/4 brass and hinges from circutboard material. Beings the wing was allready built I put the hinges on the flap ribs.
For the angle on the flaps I made a simple ujoint from 1/4 aluminum rod and drilled a small hole for a steel pin that I solidered to the brass tube. I longated the hole in the aluminum to let it pivit. Then made an controll horn from 1/16 by 1/2 brass and brased it to the tork tube. This gives me one servo for all flaps . I wil usean 140 oz servo for the flaps. Most of this was done about a month ago. If you have questions just ask. More to come shortly Rich

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

I like those glass fillets.... Good luck...I've built 2 of these...fly great.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

How much did your's weigh? and what motor did you use? Thanks Rich

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

The first one I bought built and painted, but it had a warped wing, so I scrapped that wing and built a new clipped wing. Believe it or not, the guy had made the fillets out of solid Bondo. I hollowed it out and installed a Supertigre 3000. It weighed 25 pounds, which is a bit heavy for the Platt, but it flew fine. I lost it on the 4th flight when the engine konked on take-off/climb-out. I built the second one myself and it weighed 22 pounds with an O.S. 3500. I later installed a BME 2.4 after seeing this set-up in St. Charles one year. I'd recommed a gasser as the inverted glow engine are a pain to start and keep running. The 2.4 will mount on the same rails as the Supertigre/OS 3500
Jeff

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Solid bondo on the fillets, Thats a lot of bondo. I was lucky the guy I got it from what work he did was good. He got to the hard part of mounting the tail and wing to the fush and stopped but left the bottom of the fush open.'
I have been looking for a gasser that would fit the rails. I doid find a MVVS 35 but I understand they can be hard starting. It is nice to know about the BME. I have a ST3250 that is sitting in it now. But I really want a gasser.
I have an American Eagle Spit with a G38 and it flies fine . It could use a little more power. It weighs 18 lbs. Thanks Rich

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

You will find that the BME 2.4 has more power than the G-38 if you want to try it. The new line of Evolution gas engines may work too...but costly.

Jeff

sebo

Dave used to sell all the glass parts. I don't know if he still does but all of his parts were a perfect fit on my spit. Ron

carlbecker

My Feedback: (3)

Rich,
Do you have a close up of your U-joint. I tried that on my Claude and could not find a good solution. I ended up using three servos.

Looking sharp!

Carl

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

Hi from Winnipeg,
I test flew my Platt Spifire yesterday - mine weighs 24# and includes 2# of lead and I may need a touch more. The Spit flew well but was underpowered with the US41 I was concerned with the landings at that weight, but the Spit landed fine, I plan to reengine with a Q52 or Fuji 64 or G62.

I went with a 3 piece wing - (outer tips come off with the ailerons) and built the split flaps.

I raked my undercarriage as far foward as I could, take offs were ok, but on landing if I caught the tall grass, the Spit would go over on it's nose. I used latex paints. I have the stencils from Get Stencils.com and plan to do the markings this week.

Best of luck on your project.

-ken
.

BOLTMAN

My Feedback: (1)

Ken

Either finish dressing that Spit, or stop showing it to people, You're going to scare some-one!!!!!!!!! [X(][X(][X(] Lol !!!!!

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Carl I will make another ujoint and take a close up pic. It seems to work really smooth.
Ken good looking bird. Did you use an air brush for your camo? Thanks Rich

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

I did the camo edges with an airbursh free hand & then filled in the inside with a 1.5" camel hair brush as I was in a hurry and too impatient for the airbursh. For brushing I thinned out the latex paint with windshield washer fluid and added some Floetrol and the brushed parts came out fine. I will give a satin clear coat for a spray can once the markings are on as the flat latex is too flat, I would use semi gloss lates next time. - ken

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

For irregular camo patterns like the Spit.. this tape works well. It's a foam tape that gives just the right edge.

http://www.autotoolmart.com/cgi-bin/...329&p_catid=48

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

Thx Bob...I have always wondered where one gets this stuff. Now I can order some

JEff

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks Bob. That looks like some nice stuff. Rich

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

Rich you can also get it at any automotive paint store. I have been using it for 3 years
now on my warbirds. its slowly getting noticed out there of how well it works for camo
demarcation lines

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks Todd I will give NAPA a call , I know they handle 3M products.
On the wing and tail I cutt out and added balsa blocks for the Robart pin hinges. Also added a pocket for all moving surfaces with 1/64 ply to cover up the gap.
I glassed the wing with 2 oz fiberglass cloth. Usually I use 3/4 oz cloth beings I didn't build the wing I figured a little more wouldn't hurt. The fush is covered with 3/4 cloth.
I changed the tank set up. The plans shows that the tank is put in from the front. That would mean if you had a tank problem you would have to remove the motor just to get the tank out. I cut out the former behind so it can go in from the back. All of the plumming is installed for the pull pull set up . 2 cables for rudder , 2 for elev. and 2 for the retract tail wheel.
I used a retract for the tail wheel from one I had. I think it is a B&D air retract. On the retract housing I made a 1/8 ply former with a pocket made from 1/8 ply. This way I just slide it in the pocket and put 2 screws at the bottom. Most tail wheel asmy are really hard to get to the upper screws. I have done this on just s regylar tail wheel asmy also.
Got the griffen engine schroud mounted and made screens from K&S for the bottom scoops.[img][/img]

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Forgot pic.
The struts an the Platt gear are terriable. After fileing on the gear to get them to lock up and down, Then adding a nylon spacer to take up some of the slack. The pin in the strut fell out just bu itself. I put a 2-56 bolt in it for right now. I plan on making a set of struts like my A&E Spit has .
I made the rudder horn out of circut board material.
I am about to get cought up to where I am right now on building as far as posting. This is not the way to do it. but summertime is pretty busy. fishing and Little League takes up alot of time.

sebo

My Platt struts worked great. Even had one come up after the other by partially blocking off an air line. I'm anxious to see how much weight you have to add up front for this one. I didn't weigh mine but I think I put a ton of shotgun pellets mixed with epoxy in mine.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

got a little more work done. The wing has all the detail done pannel lines ,rivits,used plu
mmers tape to simulate pannels and accsess pannels. Fusalage is primmered, got Griffen motor shroud done. Horizontal pannel lines done . now adding vertical pannel lines. I just put masking tape where I want the lines. Then use auto primer sprayed along the tape, several coats to make a good pannel line. I use an automotive touch up gun. you don't waste much paint and not much overspray.
I really haven't decided which plane I am going to do. Waiting on some info. Notice I left it a full wing. I still may make it a clipped wing. It will be either a MKX11 or MKX1V.
I also used primer on the ail and tail feathers to simulate scale detail

carlbecker

My Feedback: (3)

Rich, you are going to have another beauty here.

Carl

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks Carl. Haven't got much done on the Spit lately. I did receive a bunch of three views and other info from Chad Veich last week wich will help a lot.
I think I will go with the first ex MKx11 with the standard wing. after a few flights I will clip the wings. Then decide which markings to go with.
I have come up with a ZDZ 50, but it is going to take a lot of work to get to work. cut out the beams and make a new firewall. Just to much to do in the summer. Fishing is good too.
Thanks Chad Rich

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

Good morning - A short note to say I finished the markings on my Platt Spit - the stencils from [link=http://getstencils.com/]GetStencils.com[/link] were a joy to work with. The paint is latex house paint.

I ran up the Quadra Q52 that I bought used - got a wobble in the engine, I think the crank may be bent so I've sent it off for a repair.

With the Q52 and a 1/4" steel plate behind the cup mount, I am looking at an additional 1.25# of nose weight for balance. I also ran the engine with the home made muffler but the vibration from the engine was too much to the run us was short, we'll see in a few weeks.

Look forward to following your progress. - ken [link=http://www.sportrc.com/warbirds.html#Spitfire%20Mk.%20IX]ken's platt spitfire[/link]
.

sebo

That is one beautiful plane! Will there be cannons on it? You've done a great job. Ron

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Ken how much did it cost you for the stencil? Thanks Rich