KMP Stuka-build details
#851
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oxdrift, ON, CANADA
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Just having a look at the stuka, and noticed there are only 2 servo hatches in the wing for the aleron servo's and none for the flap servo (as shown in the instructions) and none of the holes for the alerons and flaps line up with the hinge points. Also there are no places cut for the inboard flap hinges.
Is this a common issue, or am I just lucky?
Bill
Is this a common issue, or am I just lucky?
Bill
#852
Senior Member
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Gaston,
SC
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
the flap servos are covered by the coverig, u should be able to see where they go. Use an axcto knife. u have to drill for the hinges.the hles that are there were factory paint holes...
#853
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oxdrift, ON, CANADA
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
thanks Andrew, but not seeing any holes for the flap servo`s...must have forgot to cut them for me
I drilled the alerons and flaps, but there are no slots for the hinges in the center section...and I'm just getting started...
Bill
I drilled the alerons and flaps, but there are no slots for the hinges in the center section...and I'm just getting started...
Bill
#856
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hello Rick. Yes the siren works very well.
I am using a 3S Lipo at the moment. After the last flight I forgot to turn it off. The battery switch, that is. After a week it was discharget trough the LED in the switch, and was destroyed. As you know, a LiPo cell is destroyed if you allow it to go below 2.5Volts. This happened to me.
So I will use two A123 batteries in the future. That will give me 6.6 x 2 Volts.
I am using a 3S Lipo at the moment. After the last flight I forgot to turn it off. The battery switch, that is. After a week it was discharget trough the LED in the switch, and was destroyed. As you know, a LiPo cell is destroyed if you allow it to go below 2.5Volts. This happened to me.
So I will use two A123 batteries in the future. That will give me 6.6 x 2 Volts.
#857
Senior Member
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Gaston,
SC
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Bill, did u find the flap hatches? mine are to the inboard left side of the crosses on the bottom of the wing... Kwik that siren does sound good.....
#858
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Missoula,
MT
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hey Guys
I just got this model from Thomas. None of the hinge holes are drilled in my ailerons or flaps. How are you drilling the holes without coming through the surface of the parts?
Is anyone still using the aerovate engines, and how are they holding up?
Thanks
Ron
I just got this model from Thomas. None of the hinge holes are drilled in my ailerons or flaps. How are you drilling the holes without coming through the surface of the parts?
Is anyone still using the aerovate engines, and how are they holding up?
Thanks
Ron
#859
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oxdrift, ON, CANADA
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Found the flap servo bays.
I was just out in the garage machining a set of stand-off's for the Aerovate 32 I plan to hang on the front of the Stuka, need to make a shorter set, 1 7/8" long.
Glad I have a lathe in the garage, handy for that kind of thing.
Bill
I was just out in the garage machining a set of stand-off's for the Aerovate 32 I plan to hang on the front of the Stuka, need to make a shorter set, 1 7/8" long.
Glad I have a lathe in the garage, handy for that kind of thing.
Bill
#860
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: rabatmorocco, MOROCCO
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hello,
With aweightof7.6kgexcludingfuel on my Stuka B,the enginepurchased(saito 115)would be sufficient?If no, is it absolutely necessary to get an other one like Saito 150 or 180?Ithink it'slimitsbutrequestsyouradvice.
Thank you
Thank you
#861
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bloomington,
IL
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Good work on the Siren, Kwik... I have an idea about that Wolo siren. I would like to use an ESC (might have to install a different motor) in conjunction with the rate control feature of my Hitec Aurora TX to control the spooling up & down of the siren. I am hoping that I can reverse the channel controlling the siren (ESC) and mix it to the throttle stick, while using a switch to arm the mix. Hopefully, that will evenly spool up the siren as I throttle down & roll over into the dive to deploy the bomb, and then back down as I add in throttle after the pullout. It just might make that siren sound a little better. Any thoughts? I have already started massing the parts for this
#862
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Firepower;
Letting an ESC run the motor should work? Cannot see any reason why not.
Next, whether the Aurora TX mix idea will work, I really dont know. It sounds like you want a reversal of throttle input?
Minimum throttle gives maximum siren speed, and opposite? Cannot see why it shouldnt work, either.
So, go ahead, experiment! That is the fun part, if you ask me!
By the way, the ramp up-down....I wonder.....it could be that a big juicy capacitor on , say, 4700 microfarad in parallell with the
motor would work too.....??
Maourit :
I friend of mine used a Saito 180. It was a perfect fit. Cannot answer for the other engines. But the Saito 180 drinks fuel so fast you
wouldnt believe it. So if you consider buying a Saito 180, I think I would consider a Saito FG 30 too. Its a petrol engine, and can
run forever on a tank.
Letting an ESC run the motor should work? Cannot see any reason why not.
Next, whether the Aurora TX mix idea will work, I really dont know. It sounds like you want a reversal of throttle input?
Minimum throttle gives maximum siren speed, and opposite? Cannot see why it shouldnt work, either.
So, go ahead, experiment! That is the fun part, if you ask me!
By the way, the ramp up-down....I wonder.....it could be that a big juicy capacitor on , say, 4700 microfarad in parallell with the
motor would work too.....??
Maourit :
I friend of mine used a Saito 180. It was a perfect fit. Cannot answer for the other engines. But the Saito 180 drinks fuel so fast you
wouldnt believe it. So if you consider buying a Saito 180, I think I would consider a Saito FG 30 too. Its a petrol engine, and can
run forever on a tank.
#864
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oxdrift, ON, CANADA
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
well I got sick of waiting for a muffler, so I built one from brass, copper and steel all silver soldered together and it fits inside the cowl.
Any thoughts or recomendations as to what prop to use on a 32cc gasser?
Bill
Any thoughts or recomendations as to what prop to use on a 32cc gasser?
Bill
#866
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ann Arbor,
MI
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
I'm swinging an 16 X 10 three blade on my DLE30 (I would go bigger but three blade props start getting really expensive above 16"). Are you using a two blade?
#869
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hi,
I am building ESM Stuka D, I have engine DLE 30 and I try to do cockpit myself. I´ve just done instrument panel and now I´m doing rear guns MG 81Z. Because the tail wheel was bad I did new one and also new main gear with springs.
I am building ESM Stuka D, I have engine DLE 30 and I try to do cockpit myself. I´ve just done instrument panel and now I´m doing rear guns MG 81Z. Because the tail wheel was bad I did new one and also new main gear with springs.
#870
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hi Maneba,
It looks nice, but I am little bit afraid of the strength the front part, because when you did the holes behind the engine, you maybe disturb the structure. This fibreglass is not very strong and vibrations behind the engine are very big. Do you have some silent blocks (anti shock system) on the engine base?
It looks nice, but I am little bit afraid of the strength the front part, because when you did the holes behind the engine, you maybe disturb the structure. This fibreglass is not very strong and vibrations behind the engine are very big. Do you have some silent blocks (anti shock system) on the engine base?
#873
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
I had to enforce the whole area in front of the cockpit by laying up a layer of fiberglass at the inside.
Used finishing resing. It sticks very well to the fuse's inside.
Had extra lot close to the firewall. Soaked the firewall area real good.
Before that, with a G-28 the whole front moved around at least one cm amplitude on idle.
It looked like the pilot had Parkinson, or something.
The 30 cc line of planes from ESM is designed for 4-stroke glow engines, me thinks. Not 2 stroke gassers.
The 50cc Corsair is stiff enough up front from the factory. Dont forget locktite on ALL screws and bolts.
Espesially on servos with metal gears. And ditch all plastic ARF stuff regarding horns and clevis'es.
Used finishing resing. It sticks very well to the fuse's inside.
Had extra lot close to the firewall. Soaked the firewall area real good.
Before that, with a G-28 the whole front moved around at least one cm amplitude on idle.
It looked like the pilot had Parkinson, or something.
The 30 cc line of planes from ESM is designed for 4-stroke glow engines, me thinks. Not 2 stroke gassers.
The 50cc Corsair is stiff enough up front from the factory. Dont forget locktite on ALL screws and bolts.
Espesially on servos with metal gears. And ditch all plastic ARF stuff regarding horns and clevis'es.
#874
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Here is the other side of my engine. I added some picture of the origin engine base. I cut it and made new one which I put together with fuselage by layer of the fibreglass. Inside the fuselage behind the engine will be the ignition.
#875
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
ORIGINAL: Prekin
Hi Maneba,
It looks nice, but I am little bit afraid of the strength the front part, because when you did the holes behind the engine, you maybe disturb the structure. This fibreglass is not very strong and vibrations behind the engine are very big. Do you have some silent blocks (anti shock system) on the engine base?
Hi Maneba,
It looks nice, but I am little bit afraid of the strength the front part, because when you did the holes behind the engine, you maybe disturb the structure. This fibreglass is not very strong and vibrations behind the engine are very big. Do you have some silent blocks (anti shock system) on the engine base?